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re: Tips for my raised garden
Posted on 3/2/20 at 9:36 pm to MoarKilometers
Posted on 3/2/20 at 9:36 pm to MoarKilometers
quote:
Oxygen below 18 inches of soil is almost nonexistent. Trees can deal with it, down to 24 inches, but not necessary for plants.
Well I was talking more for nutrients and more importantly drainage. If he has hard clay just below his raised box, it would be very possible it wouldn’t drain well and may cause water to sit there. I don’t see what it would hurt? Seems better to have too much good soil then not enough.
Posted on 3/2/20 at 10:20 pm to baldona
I wasn't downing your idea by any means, just dropping some info about root zones.
Posted on 3/3/20 at 6:54 am to ChenierauTigre
quote:
Doesn't gypsum help to loosen hard packed clay soils
Yes, but expanded shale is looking like it will outperform gypsum by a good margin. There are several studies going on in Texas using expanded shale instead of gypsum. It is readily available at many nursery and garden centers these days as well.
I was considering on using it for my new hydroponic system so I researched it a lot. It seems like it can help our crappy clay soils in the BR area.
Posted on 3/3/20 at 7:56 am to convertedtiger
quote:
I was considering on using it for my new hydroponic system so I researched it a lot. It seems like it can help our crappy clay soils in the BR area.
I use stalite, which is an expanded slate aggregate instead of shale. Beats perlite or hydroton in my coco coir mix. I'd imagine the 2 are extremely similar products, it just happened that one was easier to source by the cubic yard in my area though.
Not related to expanded aggregate, you can almost never have too much earthworm castings. I source directly from a worm farmer, so it comes with earthworm eggs in it... which is awesome. Can't really do heavy loads inorganic salt based fertilizers with the live worms though.
Posted on 3/3/20 at 9:02 am to Lucky_Stryke
Well frick me, I was almost certain the deep soil below my raised bed was too acidic. Backyard full of pine trees and red clay soil, I assumed acidic. My tomatoes and cucumbers struggle the bigger they get and cukes some years are bitter. I use that raised bed soil from Lowe’s but my plants start great that first month and I usually water 2-3 times a week but not too too much.
Everyone I know telling me they bet it’s acidic but just checked and it’s 6 on ph scale. I even just got some lime today to throw in. Even fertility test was good. I use MG fertilizer when I put plants in ground. To add, I only tested deep in my raised garden from last year, to the red clay.
So now I’m sitting here with a bag of lime still wanting to add it
ETA: Well I tested my top 3-4 inches from stuff I’ve put in over the years and it registered 2
Last year I mostly just added cow manure and very little soil due to some bad advice and being told I already have enough soil there.
Everyone I know telling me they bet it’s acidic but just checked and it’s 6 on ph scale. I even just got some lime today to throw in. Even fertility test was good. I use MG fertilizer when I put plants in ground. To add, I only tested deep in my raised garden from last year, to the red clay.
So now I’m sitting here with a bag of lime still wanting to add it

ETA: Well I tested my top 3-4 inches from stuff I’ve put in over the years and it registered 2

This post was edited on 3/3/20 at 12:24 pm
Posted on 3/3/20 at 12:53 pm to MoarKilometers
quote:
I use stalite, which is an expanded slate aggregate instead of shale. Beats perlite or hydroton in my coco coir mix. I'd imagine the 2 are extremely similar products,
Which type of system are you using? NFT, DWC, Flood and drain, drip, aeroponic, or aquaponic? Are you using worm castings in the hydroponic system?
Posted on 3/3/20 at 2:16 pm to convertedtiger
Drain to waste, and I add the castings directly into my "soil" mixture. I use cloth grow bags though, like a smartpot, 2-20 gallons in size depending on the location/strain. It works the same with the larger outdoor beds, but legally speaking they still frown on what I do in my state
so not outdoor beds, yet. You can add castings to your reservoir though, but I'd use something like panty hose to keep them from getting really messy and clogging up the pump/emitters.
New batch of castings each grow, but I compost the old materials in between grows. Each batch of soil gets set aside and for about 6 months before it is reused. I add my organic amendments in after about 2 months, and add some mycorrhizae as well. In fact, the mykes are pretty much the only thing I ever add to my water, short of light pH correction. Some folks add a nitrifying cover crop in between cycles, I personally do not.
If I were doing beds I'd just till it into the top couple inches. Also a big fan of adding humates, but my farming pays better so I can buy costly additives. Especially since my soil amendments are relatively cheap when purchased in 50 lbs bags. Most are ground meals, like a blood or bone meal... but I do not use either of those 2 specifically, just a reference. My plants are almost vegan, minus the fish meal I use. I feel the commonly referred term is "recycled organic living soil."

New batch of castings each grow, but I compost the old materials in between grows. Each batch of soil gets set aside and for about 6 months before it is reused. I add my organic amendments in after about 2 months, and add some mycorrhizae as well. In fact, the mykes are pretty much the only thing I ever add to my water, short of light pH correction. Some folks add a nitrifying cover crop in between cycles, I personally do not.
If I were doing beds I'd just till it into the top couple inches. Also a big fan of adding humates, but my farming pays better so I can buy costly additives. Especially since my soil amendments are relatively cheap when purchased in 50 lbs bags. Most are ground meals, like a blood or bone meal... but I do not use either of those 2 specifically, just a reference. My plants are almost vegan, minus the fish meal I use. I feel the commonly referred term is "recycled organic living soil."
Posted on 3/3/20 at 4:02 pm to windshieldman
quote:
So now I’m sitting here with a bag of lime still wanting to add it
A pH of 6 is acidic. You want it as close to 7 which is neutral. So add the lime, it will help. Some plants like acidic soil like blueberries, azealas, etc. But most garden veggies prefer as close to 7 as you can get. If the pH is ever to high, then you add some aluminum sulfate. It will lower the pH. That's what you place around blueberries and azealas.
pH Scale 0-6 Acidic, 7 Neutral, 8-14 Basic
This post was edited on 3/3/20 at 4:07 pm
Posted on 3/3/20 at 4:32 pm to boudinman
quote:
A pH of 6 is acidic. You want it as close to 7 which is neutral. So add the lime, it will help. Some plants like acidic soil like blueberries, azealas, etc. But most garden veggies prefer as close to 7 as you can get. If the pH is ever to high, then you add some aluminum sulfate. It will lower the pH. That's what you place around blueberries and azealas.
I added the lime. Yea as far as blueberries I actually am good at growing those

Posted on 3/3/20 at 5:18 pm to Lucky_Stryke
My garden soil has a few inches of good topsoil on top of a layer of heavy clay. I spent several years amending the soil. I don't have a heavy duty tiller, so I would turn the entire garden with a shovel, getting down to a depth of about 12"-15". Once the soil was somewhat dry, I topped the soil with either a mix of busted bags from Lowe's (they sell them for 1/2 price -- peat moss, cow manure, mushroom compost, even potting soil) or a truck load of dirt from a garden center. Then tilled it in with a small tiller. Also added gypsum and lime every couple of years. Over a period of time, I've gotten the soil in much better condition, but the acidity is a constant battle.
Last year I decided to expand my garden with a couple more rows. I planted in large pots with a mix of bagged garden soil, mulch and some dirt from the garden. Those plants were just as productive as my plants in the ground.
Last year I decided to expand my garden with a couple more rows. I planted in large pots with a mix of bagged garden soil, mulch and some dirt from the garden. Those plants were just as productive as my plants in the ground.
Posted on 3/3/20 at 9:38 pm to MoarKilometers
Does the feed store have Stalite like it does perlite?
A big bag of perlite is like 25 bucks at the feed store.
Is stalite inert like perlite is?
Ive been doing mostly dutch buckets but a little kratke as well
At one point had a greenhouse set up going, but wasnt able to keep it up. Boy aphids will take over if you have too much nitrogen in the mix though.
A big bag of perlite is like 25 bucks at the feed store.
Is stalite inert like perlite is?
Ive been doing mostly dutch buckets but a little kratke as well
At one point had a greenhouse set up going, but wasnt able to keep it up. Boy aphids will take over if you have too much nitrogen in the mix though.
Posted on 3/4/20 at 7:27 pm to ADLSUNSU
Got some lime today. Took advantage of wet soil got about half garden loose. Gonna put lime out tomorrow and let rain water it in.
Do I need to remove some of the dirt from original ground or just put lime down wait a few weeks then add the soil for the garden?
Do I need to remove some of the dirt from original ground or just put lime down wait a few weeks then add the soil for the garden?
Posted on 3/8/20 at 9:14 am to Lucky_Stryke
lime generally takes a pretty long time to adjust ph in the soil as far as my understanding.
I think there is a type of lime that is faster, but also more of a runoff danger.
I think there is a type of lime that is faster, but also more of a runoff danger.
Posted on 3/9/20 at 9:52 am to windshieldman
quote:
Yea as far as blueberries I actually am good at growing those I use a MG plant feed for acid loving plants
Question for you; How often are you applying the Miracle Gro for Acid Loving plants to your blueberries?
Posted on 3/9/20 at 9:53 am to ADLSUNSU
This is supposedly fast acting pellet lime with calcium and magnesium. Mainly the reason I got it to help with bloom rot and hopefully he'll with pH soon.
Posted on 3/9/20 at 12:45 pm to MoarKilometers
I used 2 yards of worm dirt and it has given a beautiful veggie garden for 8 years now.
Posted on 3/9/20 at 4:08 pm to boudinman
quote:
nematode(cutworm)
Nematodes and cutworms aren't the same thing.
quote:
Permethrin 10 from Tractor Supply. Mix 3 teaspoons of Permethrin 10 per gallon of water. Spray as often as needed, won't harm humans or pets. This will take care of your insect problems. You can wash/rinse off vegetables and eat them the next day.
Nevermind that the bottle you linked and the label says not to apply to crops used for food.
There's a reason pesticides have labels on them.
Posted on 3/10/20 at 10:34 am to Lucky_Stryke
I’ve had pretty good success with tomatoes. I grow them in galvanized steel cattle troughs. I drilled holes in the bottom for drainage.
I have complete control over the soil. I mixed about 70% garden soil, 10% manure, 10% peat moss, 10% miracle grow vegetable soil. I also threw a tub of earthworms in each trough.
I’ve grown many varieties of hybrids as well as heirloom. I’ll usually grow some cherries on the patio in pots. I fertilize w liquid tomato food (Miracle Grow) pretty heavily, and sevin dust about once a week.
I have complete control over the soil. I mixed about 70% garden soil, 10% manure, 10% peat moss, 10% miracle grow vegetable soil. I also threw a tub of earthworms in each trough.
I’ve grown many varieties of hybrids as well as heirloom. I’ll usually grow some cherries on the patio in pots. I fertilize w liquid tomato food (Miracle Grow) pretty heavily, and sevin dust about once a week.
Posted on 3/10/20 at 8:04 pm to BayouBengal51
quote:
Question for you; How often are you applying the Miracle Gro for Acid Loving plants to your blueberries
I feed them about every 10-14 days
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