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Shower Renovation
Posted on 4/27/23 at 7:43 am
Posted on 4/27/23 at 7:43 am
I'm planning to rip out the old cultured marble shower walls to prepare for tile installation. I want the new tile to come to the same edge as to where the current walls come and wondering how far "in" should I cut the existing sheetrock away from that edge so the seam between the new concrete board and sheetrock won't be right at the edge of the tile. Any special prep to that edge of sheetrock left?
TIA.
TIA.
Posted on 4/27/23 at 9:00 am to mdboss
When i did my bathroom, I ended up using the Tile Coach videos as a good foundation for my knowledge. He has a video here that I believe may answer your transition question.
Tile Coach
Tile Coach
Posted on 4/27/23 at 10:32 am to mdboss
You want to overdue the cement board, waterproofing membrane, and tile as much as possible OP.
Lets step back for a second. Describe what kind of shower you have, shape, what kind of curtain/ glass, etc.
You want to do everything possible to have sheetrock not start until you are absolutely sure there is no water run off or spray. For example, if this is your standard shower/ tub combo you want to have the cement board go 2-3 inches at least outside of and down the tub to the floor. Otherwise you will have spray from the shower and then run off from the tub that goes down the tub and gets the sheetrock wet over time. Especially if this is a kids or guest bathroom. People will argue this and opinions will vary, but I've seen many showers with mold and water damage because the tile was stopped too soon. You don't need a lot, 6 inches or so is best but just 2-3 is usually sufficient.
You can water proof the joint where the sheetrock and cement meet and you can skim coat it with drywall mud if need be.
The last thing you want is to not go far enough with the waterproofing and tile and then get water/ moisture damage and mildew.
good example going well past shower/ tub with cement board and waterproofing:
Bad example where they stop with the tile at the end of the tub. If this is used at all you will get moisture damage on that baseboard and drywall overtime.:
Lets step back for a second. Describe what kind of shower you have, shape, what kind of curtain/ glass, etc.
You want to do everything possible to have sheetrock not start until you are absolutely sure there is no water run off or spray. For example, if this is your standard shower/ tub combo you want to have the cement board go 2-3 inches at least outside of and down the tub to the floor. Otherwise you will have spray from the shower and then run off from the tub that goes down the tub and gets the sheetrock wet over time. Especially if this is a kids or guest bathroom. People will argue this and opinions will vary, but I've seen many showers with mold and water damage because the tile was stopped too soon. You don't need a lot, 6 inches or so is best but just 2-3 is usually sufficient.
You can water proof the joint where the sheetrock and cement meet and you can skim coat it with drywall mud if need be.
The last thing you want is to not go far enough with the waterproofing and tile and then get water/ moisture damage and mildew.
good example going well past shower/ tub with cement board and waterproofing:
Bad example where they stop with the tile at the end of the tub. If this is used at all you will get moisture damage on that baseboard and drywall overtime.:
Posted on 4/27/23 at 12:11 pm to baldona
The shower walls extend about 4” from the front edge of the tub. Looking at stopping the tile where the current shower wall stops but extending tile about a foot taller than the current shower wall to go above the shower head. I have no idea if greenboard or similar was used next to or even behind what’s there. I was planning to, once the shower wall was removed come in about an inch to cut the sheetrock so the cement board and sheetrock seam would be 1” from the tile edge.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Posted on 4/27/23 at 12:26 pm to mdboss
I would do as much cement board as you can. When we had commercial bathrooms done it was always specified all the walls where cement board. If I was doing a bathroom from scratch they would all get cement board.
Posted on 4/27/23 at 12:28 pm to mdboss
Wherever your drywall and cement board meet, you need to float it in with thinset not drywall mud. Use the mesh tape instead of paper drywall tape. It sands down pretty easily to a nice finish.
Posted on 4/27/23 at 12:54 pm to Trout Bandit
Appreciate all this good advice. As usual more things to consider than originally thought.
Thx!
Thx!
Posted on 4/27/23 at 5:51 pm to mdboss
You can drywall and overlay with Kerdi schluter waterproofing. You’ll need to follow the manufacturer guidelines. I’ve installed countless of these shower systems and They are bullet proof if done correctly. I’ve done the math and they shake out about the same opposed to a red guard and cement board application including labor. Good luck.
Posted on 4/27/23 at 9:32 pm to PaBon
I will second shluter. I redid a bathroom with it and wasn’t comfortable with the tile so I hired that out. My tile guy never did one before and he absolutely loved it. Not to mention it is totally waterproof.
Posted on 4/28/23 at 6:56 am to mdboss
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