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Replacing water heaters
Posted on 4/24/20 at 12:56 am
Posted on 4/24/20 at 12:56 am
I'm replacing two natural gas water heaters in my attic. They are ~16-17 years old. Are there any name brands that I should go with besides Rheem or AO Smith from Home Depot or Lowe's?
7
Posted on 4/24/20 at 4:07 am to Jason9782003
I went with Rheem no issues
Posted on 4/24/20 at 5:47 am to Jason9782003
No, not really. I think there are some other brands to consider if you are going with a tankless.
Which if I had natural gas and it was in my attic I would definitely consider.
Which if I had natural gas and it was in my attic I would definitely consider.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 7:11 am to Jason9782003
Consider the cost for installation
I got "rheemed" on an intallation I had to do quickly due to a leak while I was out of town.
I got "rheemed" on an intallation I had to do quickly due to a leak while I was out of town.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 7:53 am to Jason9782003
Being that you have gas already in your attic, I would strongly recommend taking a look at tankless. Either 2 medium sized heaters or one large one can run an average house. I believe they are up to 11+ GPM now, which is sufficient for just about anything.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 8:25 am to Jason9782003
quote:
I'm replacing two natural gas water heaters in my attic. They are ~16-17 years old.
I'm in this boat. I want to replace mine also. I am just curious, are all 50 gallon tank water heaters the same size? It would make the reinstall very easy. If not, I guess I could go back to the same make/model.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 8:53 am to Jason9782003
Just make sure that whatever water heaters you buy they will fit through your attic stair opening. I read a while back that water heaters made today are a bit wider in diameter and shorter for equivalent gallon capacity than in years past (more insulation, etc). As you know an 1 or 2 inch increase in dia might be the difference in getting it through the attic stairs opening vs having to remove the stairs and re-installing them.
I’ve also read where it is suggested to consider water heaters with brass/metal drainage spigots vs plastic spigots, and those you are unlikely to get at the big box store vs a plumbing supply distributor.
I need to do the same with my 2 water heaters original to the house, no problems, they should just be replaced because of age. Just waiting for my BIL who is a retired master plumber living out of state now to visit to get a BIL deal to install. A sack of boiled crawfish usually takes care of that.
I’ve considered tankless water heaters but unless you have a supply quantity issue why? You might have to increase gas supply line size, plus even gas tankless water heaters have electric controls. Out of power for several days + because of a hurricane without a whole-house generator, nice to still have hot water to shower or bathe.
I’ve also read where it is suggested to consider water heaters with brass/metal drainage spigots vs plastic spigots, and those you are unlikely to get at the big box store vs a plumbing supply distributor.
I need to do the same with my 2 water heaters original to the house, no problems, they should just be replaced because of age. Just waiting for my BIL who is a retired master plumber living out of state now to visit to get a BIL deal to install. A sack of boiled crawfish usually takes care of that.
I’ve considered tankless water heaters but unless you have a supply quantity issue why? You might have to increase gas supply line size, plus even gas tankless water heaters have electric controls. Out of power for several days + because of a hurricane without a whole-house generator, nice to still have hot water to shower or bathe.
This post was edited on 4/24/20 at 11:59 pm
Posted on 4/24/20 at 11:06 am to CrawDude
quote:
Just make sure that whatever water heaters you buy they will fit through your attic stair opening.
This. I recently replaced my attic stairs and went with a wider stair just to be safe.
quote:
I’ve also read where it is suggested to consider water heaters with brass/metal drainage spigots vs plastic spigots, and those you are unlikely to get at the big box store vs a plumbing supply distributor.
I usually replace them with a ball valve spigot.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 12:37 pm to CrawDude
quote:If I remember correctly they come with a battery backup and it's just a small traditional battery. Something like a 9v because it just has to power so little circuitry? Don't have however seems like little brother remarked about how nice it was during an extended power outage.
plus even gas tankless water heaters have electric controls.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 12:41 pm to slinger1317
quote:
Being that you have gas already in your attic, I would strongly recommend taking a look at tankless.
What are the gotchas and considerations when going from a gas tank to a gas tankless?
Our HWH is 11 years old so it'll need to be replaced soon. It's kind of in a weird spot in the attic, support-wise, so lightening it up would be a nice added benefit.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 1:24 pm to awestruck
quote:
If I remember correctly they come with a battery backup and it's just a small traditional battery. Something like a 9v because it just has to power so little circuitry? Don't have however seems like little brother remarked about how nice it was during an extended power outage.
My bad on that and quick internet research says you do need a battery backup, but they seemed to use the larger battery backups like you might see for a desktop auxiliary power supply - some battery backups that supply a week of backup power cost as much as a tank water heater.
I did discuss the merits of tank vs tankless with my BIL the master plumber - he’s installed hundreds of both in his career - numerous tankless after Katrina when people had to repair and re-model. He’s advice was to replace my units with the same type of traditional gas tank water heaters I already have. He’s old school and tends to operate on the KISS principle - keep it simple stupid - as long as it according to code. Of course I never had several teenagers in the house at the same time.
I did install recirculating pumps on both gas tank water heaters though a few years ago so I could have instant water on demand at the farthest reaches of the house. They work great. Fortunately I had power outlets in attic next to each water heater which allowed me to do this easily at no cost other than the cost of the recirculating pumps, and it was a simple DYI project.
This post was edited on 4/24/20 at 3:46 pm
Posted on 4/24/20 at 1:33 pm to BeepNode
quote:
What are the gotchas and considerations when going from a gas tank to a gas tankless? Our HWH is 11 years old so it'll need to be replaced soon. It's kind of in a weird spot in the attic, support-wise, so lightening it up would be a nice added benefit.
You will need a 120 V electrical outlet in that area of the attic for power, and you might require a larger gas-line than you currently have supplying your tank water heater. I think you might also require a larger heat flue through the attic than you currently have. All that can add up in $ unless those requirements are already in place.
Posted on 4/24/20 at 11:08 pm to CrawDude
quote:
You will need a 120 V electrical outlet in that area of the attic for power, and you might require a larger gas-line than you currently have supplying your tank water heater. I think you might also require a larger heat flue through the attic than you currently have. All that can add up in $ unless those requirements are already in place.
Well, crap.
Posted on 4/25/20 at 6:34 am to Jason9782003
How often are you guys preemptively replacing your hot water heaters? My 50 gallon AO is from 2003, but isn’t showing any signs, atleast that I’m aware of, of failure.
This post was edited on 4/25/20 at 6:35 am
Posted on 4/25/20 at 7:02 am to OleWarSkuleAlum
quote:
How often are you guys preemptively replacing your hot water heaters? My 50 gallon AO is from 2003, but isn’t showing any signs, atleast that I’m aware of, of failure.
To be honest.... I replace mine when I look out onto my back patio and it's wet and it hasn't rained. Then I see a stream of water running out of the discharge pipe from the attic wall onto the roof and onto the patio.
Posted on 4/25/20 at 8:09 am to OleWarSkuleAlum
I’m in the same boat, my AO is 2001, and is working fine, but I’m starting to get nervous. I’m already shopping around and deciding between tank and tankless so when the time comes I can pull the trigger
Posted on 4/25/20 at 8:44 am to dltigers3
quote:
I’m in the same boat, my AO is 2001, and is working fine, but I’m starting to get nervous. I’m already shopping around and deciding between tank and tankless so when the time comes I can pull the trigger
I guess the biggest takeaway for me is that AO makes quality products and I will likely purchase another when the time comes.
Posted on 4/25/20 at 9:44 am to OleWarSkuleAlum
Since this would be a preemptive replacement based on age, where is the best place to get the best price? Online?
Last time I replaced one, I obtained the water heater and worked out a cash deal on the install.
Last time I replaced one, I obtained the water heater and worked out a cash deal on the install.
Posted on 4/25/20 at 10:28 am to OleWarSkuleAlum
2001 and 2003 - those are rookie numbers - mine are 1993 - yeah I’m way overdue to replace them by a decade. lol:
Mine are Rudd P-50 and P-40 units. Only once did I have to clean the thermocouple on the P-50 unit when the pilot light would occasionally flame out. The P-40 has never gone out. I seriously doubt anything made today would last as long as these older units. I read where the expected life of a water heater is 10 to 12 years, but I suppose it’s like HVAC units with a similar life expectancy (13-15 years) but many are still going strong after 20+ years.
The reason for pre-emptive replacement is the danger of water heaters in the attic leaking from corrosion of the internal tank and by some chance the drip pan and drain tube to the outside not properly working resulting in overflow and water damage to the ceiling and floor below. Being in the attic, they are of of sight, and therefore often out of mind.
Changing the anode rod every 5 to 7 years can extend the life of the heater. One can also install a electronic water shut valve in the water line that feeds the water heater that has a water sensor in the drip pan as the ultimate safety function.
Could be a good thing to spend your govt stimulus check on if you are getting one.
Mine are Rudd P-50 and P-40 units. Only once did I have to clean the thermocouple on the P-50 unit when the pilot light would occasionally flame out. The P-40 has never gone out. I seriously doubt anything made today would last as long as these older units. I read where the expected life of a water heater is 10 to 12 years, but I suppose it’s like HVAC units with a similar life expectancy (13-15 years) but many are still going strong after 20+ years.
The reason for pre-emptive replacement is the danger of water heaters in the attic leaking from corrosion of the internal tank and by some chance the drip pan and drain tube to the outside not properly working resulting in overflow and water damage to the ceiling and floor below. Being in the attic, they are of of sight, and therefore often out of mind.
Changing the anode rod every 5 to 7 years can extend the life of the heater. One can also install a electronic water shut valve in the water line that feeds the water heater that has a water sensor in the drip pan as the ultimate safety function.
Could be a good thing to spend your govt stimulus check on if you are getting one.
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