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Repairing Wooden Windows

Posted on 8/19/24 at 9:45 pm
Posted by GeauxTime9
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Dec 2010
6927 posts
Posted on 8/19/24 at 9:45 pm
Anyone have any recommendations for someone to repair wooden windows?
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
28149 posts
Posted on 8/19/24 at 10:04 pm to
Where are you?
Posted by LSUDad
Still on the move
Member since May 2004
61903 posts
Posted on 8/19/24 at 10:07 pm to
quote:

Anyone have any recommendations for someone to repair wooden windows?


Does the subdivision require wood windows?
Posted by charliemurphy69
Member since Nov 2023
540 posts
Posted on 8/19/24 at 10:50 pm to
Good luck finding someone
In the Gonzales area
Posted by GeauxTime9
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Dec 2010
6927 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 5:50 am to
BR area and yes subdivision requires them.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
19417 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 7:50 am to
quote:


BR area and yes subdivision requires them.



And just one more reason I'd not live in a place where someone has the power to tell me what kind of windows my home has to have.


Just out of curiosity, what exactly is wrong with your windows that need repair.
This post was edited on 8/20/24 at 7:52 am
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13329 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 8:24 am to
What kind of repair? Replacing panes and glazing is pretty simple. Watched a handyman repair a busted pane about 15 years ago at our house shortly after we had moved in and thought that is so simple, I'm never paying someone to do that again. Anything with the sash and jambs on old wood windows is a pain though.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
19417 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 10:23 am to
quote:

Replacing panes and glazing is pretty simple.



The hardest part about replacing broken panes is digging out the old glazing.

Lots of time when it's real old it gets hard as hell and if done right, it really sticks to the wood mullions the panes sit in. If too aggressive, you can actually crack a pane next to the one you are replacing.
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
13329 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 10:54 am to
quote:

Lots of time when it's real old it gets hard as hell and if done right, it really sticks to the wood mullions the panes sit in. If too aggressive, you can actually crack a pane next to the one you are replacing.


Main reason I end up buying multiple panes now when repairing them. Last time I fixed a cracked pane, I had the glass guy at Lowe's cut me 2. Ended up breaking another one in the process, and one of the replacements putting the points in. Had to go back and that time I got 4 cut just to have extras.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
19417 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 11:41 am to
quote:

Main reason I end up buying multiple panes now when repairing them.



I've got a PHD in wood sash windows since I have 31 of them in my old N.O. house that is close to 100 years old. I have 2 windows on a bump out structural part that have 18 glass panes----16 on top sash and 2 on the bottom sash. Most only have 2 large panes measuring 15" x 32" in both sashes.
Posted by Dingeaux
Baton Rouge
Member since Nov 2005
5692 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 11:50 am to
I have two at home that are beginning to rot on the bottom frame in a corner. It's getting pretty bad.

how do you go about repairing that?
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
19417 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 12:03 pm to
quote:

I have two at home that are beginning to rot on the bottom frame in a corner. It's getting pretty bad.



That's probably one of the easier repairs to do. There's 2 ways I'd go about it. First, if it is just a small section and not effecting the entire bottom of the window sash, just cut whatever needs to be removed across the entire width of the window to get to good wood and scab on a new piece of wood by gluing it on with exterior grade glue. Then sand to get the bottom of the window sash smooth and even and then paint.

If, however, the rot is extensive you need to remove the entire bottom of the sash, but first have to figure out how it is assembled----usually by joinery like a mortice and tenon glued together and then depending on how old the window is, it may also be pegged with a couple dowels to further strengthen the joint.

Once you figure it out and remove that bottom piece, you need to make a new one to go in it's place and I advise using something like Spanish Cedar for that. It is rot resistant and keeps a true line and not twist or warp when exposed to the sun's heat.

My windows and all trim work on my house are made from old growth cypress and are all in great condition. I would not trust the cypress you can get from the lumber yards today unless it was old, reclaimed cypress for that job.
Posted by Dingeaux
Baton Rouge
Member since Nov 2005
5692 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 12:11 pm to
thanks
i will try this approach
Posted by agilitydawg
Member since Aug 2022
189 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 5:20 pm to
I do not have a Ph.D. in window repair, nor do I want one! But I have dealt with a few bottom sash rot issues. There is good advice here; I just want to add that an oscillating tool is handy for getting a good, straight, clean cut, which will make cutting and fitting a new piece much easier.
Posted by Dingeaux
Baton Rouge
Member since Nov 2005
5692 posts
Posted on 8/20/24 at 5:50 pm to
How do you attach the new piece of wood after you cut out the old with an oscillating tool?
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
19417 posts
Posted on 8/21/24 at 5:03 pm to
quote:

How do you attach the new piece of wood after you cut out the old with an oscillating tool?



Make sure the two mating surfaces are flat and true to one another, apply some outdoor type glue-------I prefer Gorilla Glue in this instance and to apply it right, you spread the glue on one surface and dampen the other surface with water and then clamp them together.

As the glue dries it will ooze out from the seam and look like that expandable foam people use for weatherproofing. Wait until it dries hard and then take a sharp chisel and remove as much as you can. When that's done, sand the area smooth and paint.
Posted by agilitydawg
Member since Aug 2022
189 posts
Posted on 8/21/24 at 6:35 pm to
So I cut about an inch and a half wide and 3 inches long rectangle out of the middle of the sill plate to get rid of the rotten part. I have brick below the window sill plate, so I went all the way to the brick and drove a couple of wood screws in the part to pull the piece out. I believe that for the new piece, I had a good fit, but I also had a couple of set screws driven into the wood and setting on the brick to adjust the height and help make it flush and minimize sanding. a screw on the top allowed me to pull it out and adjust the set screws until they were where I wanted them.

From there, I glued it and had minor sanding.
Posted by jumbomallard
Member since Jul 2021
182 posts
Posted on 8/24/24 at 4:04 am to
Tyler Graves Window Restoration
601-270-0771
Baton Rouge.

Repaired a large wood picture window in the front of my house. Had wood rot from seals drying out.
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