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Posted on 12/17/19 at 3:16 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
he puts a couple 2x12's to form the header, then he's down to 7 ft. at that point.
That's why I said he needs to have someone size a laminated beam or figure out if a 4x6 or 2-2x6s glued and bolted together would work. Its more work to hide the bolts though. Typically you would have a post every 6' to 8' but he may want a totally clear opening.
Posted on 12/17/19 at 3:19 pm to TDsngumbo
quote:you need to hire a professional to make sure you don't mess up badly. what you are dealing with is very tricky.
- no joists.
Posted on 12/17/19 at 3:25 pm to TDsngumbo
Install a 2x6 all the way across the bottom of the rafters, then just use 2x4's to shore up the rafters. Then cut away. 
Posted on 12/17/19 at 3:39 pm to Zappas Stache
I removed a supporting wall in my man cave to open it up considerably from the original configuration. The wall I took out was directly under an upstairs wall that was 10 1/2 ft. tall with plaster and lath on both sides, so it was considerable weight.
I took two pieces of 3/8 in. thick by 6 in. high steel U-Channel, drilled them while clamped together and placed them on the opposite sides of a wood 6x6 that acted as the top plate on the ground floor. I used 3/4 in. bolts every 12 inches to bolt the 2 pieces of steel running them through the 6x6. When I knocked out the studs for the wall downstairs, there was zero deflection on the 15 ft. run.
That opened up that part of the man cave to a 15 x 25 ft. area.
I took two pieces of 3/8 in. thick by 6 in. high steel U-Channel, drilled them while clamped together and placed them on the opposite sides of a wood 6x6 that acted as the top plate on the ground floor. I used 3/4 in. bolts every 12 inches to bolt the 2 pieces of steel running them through the 6x6. When I knocked out the studs for the wall downstairs, there was zero deflection on the 15 ft. run.
That opened up that part of the man cave to a 15 x 25 ft. area.
Posted on 12/17/19 at 6:13 pm to TDsngumbo
Dude, you can't have a man cave. You have a baby on the way.
Posted on 12/17/19 at 6:19 pm to ChenierauTigre
This thread is why code enforcement is a thing...
Goodness OP, some of your questions are absurd. Why does anyone thing that removing a load bearing wall would be a DIY project? I’m all about DIY but this is not a DIY project.
Goodness OP, some of your questions are absurd. Why does anyone thing that removing a load bearing wall would be a DIY project? I’m all about DIY but this is not a DIY project.
Posted on 12/17/19 at 8:37 pm to baldona
quote:
This thread is why code enforcement is a thing...
If you don't pull a permit, you don't have to worry about that pesky code enforcement stuff, do you?
Posted on 12/17/19 at 9:56 pm to baldona
Yea I started investigating further in there this afternoon and learned a beam is already in place in that section. Google images from 2008 show a large garage door in that section. I was thrilled until I saw some termite damage. Looks old and I don’t see any live termites but there’s damage nonetheless and my priority changed immediately. Now I’m focused on finding all the damage and treating again. Not taking that wall down anymore since all my money will apparently go towards repairing the damage 
This post was edited on 12/17/19 at 9:58 pm
Posted on 12/18/19 at 1:21 am to baldona
quote:
Why does anyone thing that removing a load bearing wall would be a DIY project? I’m all about DIY but this is not a DIY project.
Removing a load bearing wall to open up a living area is no big thing----IF you put up a temporary wall nearby to carry the load while the wall is removed AND use properly sized lumber for your header to carry that load when the temporary wall is removed.
It's not rocket science more so than common sense.
Posted on 12/18/19 at 5:39 am to gumbo2176
quote:
It's not rocket science more so than common sense.
This if you know construction.
Posted on 12/18/19 at 7:35 am to fishfighter
I'd like to see before and after pics of the roof collapse please.
Posted on 12/18/19 at 10:38 am to baldona
quote:
This thread is why code enforcement is a thing...
Code enforcement is just a revenue source for cities.
Posted on 12/18/19 at 11:37 am to fishfighter
quote:
This if you know construction.
I've seen pics of your work, so I know you know construction. I've done it for years myself and I know construction. There's also a few others that have responded that seem to know how to go about this safely and do the job right.
However, many seem to be overwhelmed by the sheer thought of it, and that's OK, more work to those that know how to do it.
Posted on 12/18/19 at 11:46 am to Zappas Stache
That’s permitting as well
Posted on 12/18/19 at 11:48 am to TDsngumbo
You might be able to do both, remember if you have to take the wall down to treat termites it will be less expensive to not put it back up
Posted on 12/18/19 at 12:40 pm to TDsngumbo
quote:
Not taking that wall down anymore since all my money will apparently go towards repairing the damage
Go back with treated wood instead of just regular studs and plates. Anytime I run into termite damage, I replace anything that needs to be replaced with treated wood.
Posted on 12/18/19 at 12:55 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
Removing a load bearing wall to open up a living area is no big thing--
Come on man. Read the OP and ask yourself if he should DIY this project. There's a huge area in between DIY and Ph.D. You are right, its not a crazy hard job but its absolutely not something just do willy nilly.
To do this right you should have an enginner calculate both what beam for support you need and how well your sub floor will support the extra weight on either side now that its not spread out.
Posted on 12/19/19 at 4:09 am to TDsngumbo
So you have no attic there? The ceiling Sheetrock is attached directly to your rafters with a cathedral ceiling?
I would remove the Sheetrock inside, bolt my temporary beam to the top plate, then start removing studs from the middle outward and watch the deflection as I go. Run a string or measure from the floor. You might double up the wall studs on each edge of the new opening to carry the additional load of the beam and whatever the removed studs were carrying.
As far as the damage, you were going to install a permanent beam anyway so there shouldn’t be any extra cost or minimal anyway.
I would remove the Sheetrock inside, bolt my temporary beam to the top plate, then start removing studs from the middle outward and watch the deflection as I go. Run a string or measure from the floor. You might double up the wall studs on each edge of the new opening to carry the additional load of the beam and whatever the removed studs were carrying.
As far as the damage, you were going to install a permanent beam anyway so there shouldn’t be any extra cost or minimal anyway.
Posted on 12/19/19 at 2:11 pm to skidry
quote:
As far as the damage, you were going to install a permanent beam anyway so there shouldn’t be any extra cost or minimal anyway.
When I started digging, I see that a massive beam is already there underneath the top plate. I'm not sure how long it is because I haven't gutted that much yet but the majority of the termite damage is to the studs. The bottom plate (as someone said earlier, is treated) has almost no damage whatsoever. There are a couple studs (including the big ones (king/jack/whatever they're called) that have significant damage and will need to be replaced regardless of whether or not I decide to renovate now. Depends on how much more damage I uncover and how much it sets me back.
If it's too much I'll have the entire structure bulldozed and have an enormous cement patio for entertaining
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