re: Post your lawn program

If it’s St Aug then you should top dress with peat moss.

I wouldn't do several inches of peat moss. It's not really good for rooting. You can get really crazy and do a peat, sand, and soil mixture.

Bonus crop fertilizer in Greenville, Tx and it doesn’t have a name. It’s just a yellow bag with 33-3-6 on it

I'm just bumping this thread since I have it bookmarked. I was trying to follow the Randy Lemon program but referencing Ronk and CrawDude too.

It has fertilizer going out some time now. I have Zoysia and St. Aug. Should I shoot for something lower than the 33-3-6? His recs. don't have N above 20.

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Craw can give the specifics on a 24% N from Siteone

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The Site One Landscape Supply in Baton Rouge carries 2 lawn fertilizers in stock. LESCO 24-2-11 and LESCO 15-5-15. I’ve been using 24-2-11 on a centipede front yard and a St Aug back yard. Centipede receives a 1/2 lb N per 1000 sq ft, St Aug 1 lb N per 1000 sq ft, per LSU AgCenter recommendations. .

The application rate for the 24-2-11 to provide 1 lb N per 1000 sq ft is 4 lbs per 1000 sq ft. If applying 1/2 lb N per 1000 sq ft then apply 2 lbs per 1000 sq ft of 24-2-11. Divide the %N on the fertilizer bag for whatever fertilizer you choose to use into 100 to give the application rate for 1 lb of N per 1000 sq ft and divide the %N on the bag into 50 for the application rate of 1/2 lb N per 1000 sq ft.

Use 1 lb of N per 1000 sq ft on your St Aug, and from what I gather from other posters who have discussed with Dr Ron Strahan, turf and weed Extension Specialist and Professor, LSU AgCenter, you should apply 1/2 lb N per 1000 sq ft on the Zoysia to mitigate thatch accumulation.

Randy Lemmon is based out of Houston Texas, and he recommends products of his sponsors of his radio program and web site, nothing wrong with that. He was at one time an ag journalist for Texas A&M extension service and I’m sure many, if not most, of his recommendations are based on Texas A&M turf research.

One of the advantages of applying lawn fertilizers in the “teens” for N, vs a 33-X-X, is you physically spread more material out onto the lawn per 1000 sq ft so you are likely insuring you are getting good, uniform coverage of fertilizer over the entire lawn, whereas with a more concentrated fertilized, if you don’t have your spreader set just right, you might over apply and under apply in sections of the lawn.

I hope this helps and I haven’t confused you any more than when you asked your question

Take home message: find a lawn fertilizer in the teens or 20s for N, and adjust the application rate to provide 1/2 or 1 lb N per 1000 sq ft. You may have better luck finding these at retail garden centers, feed & seed stores, hardware stores, maybe Tractor Supply, vs the big box stores.

Ok. Yeah. For my April fert. I used a Fertilome 15-5-10. It was easy to get and obviously easy to use.

That does make sense about not juicing it too much to avoid thatch. My grass guy bags every other week and I find myself raking or blowing clipping bunches on the non-bag weeks.

Thanks for the help. I watered this evening. Gonna fert. tomorrow and water Sunday.

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July-33-3-6 spot treat with Celsius
August-nothing for lawn. Top choice for insects.
September-5-0-20

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Yo Gronk - I didn't do the 33-3-6 in July. Is it too late for that now, or should I go with 5-0-20 at this point? (centipede). Is it too hot to apply these now?

Thank you sir.

Centipede lawn. I'm in Mandeville LA

Haven't done a whole lot, but did premergent back in January'ish I think and I forget which product (maybe Barricade). Then spot treated with Celcius end of June and again a couple weeks ago. Virginia buttonweed was main issue but Celcius has done well on it. I might've done a scotts weed n feed in spring but I cant recall...

Trying to get organized now.

6 acres
20 mature pecan tree
13 old live oaks
My program is….
Rain / wind, pick up branches and cut grass every week.