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Make-up Air for Kitchen Hood Exhaust
Posted on 7/14/26 at 10:04 am
Posted on 7/14/26 at 10:04 am
When we run our 500CFM kitchen hood exhaust, I notice air coming in through the cracks in doors/windows. If we cook for any length of time, the air gets noticably more humid - because we're pulling in July Louisiana weather.
I looked up make-up air solutions, many involve some sort of duct allowing in outisde air to equalize the vacuum created by the exhaust. I can crack a window, but I don't want the humid air.
Others involve expensive dehumidifying vents, or HVAC intake solutions that require dehumidifying outside air - which is a losing battle here.
One solution AI suggested was an HVAC bypass duct that would draw air in from all the returns in the house and bring it to the kitchen. You're circulating conditioned air. I don't understand how this works. You still have to replace the inside air with outside air at some point.
Besides not cooking during the summer, or cracking a window, or simply cooking outside have you guys found any reasonable solution to this problem?
I looked up make-up air solutions, many involve some sort of duct allowing in outisde air to equalize the vacuum created by the exhaust. I can crack a window, but I don't want the humid air.
Others involve expensive dehumidifying vents, or HVAC intake solutions that require dehumidifying outside air - which is a losing battle here.
One solution AI suggested was an HVAC bypass duct that would draw air in from all the returns in the house and bring it to the kitchen. You're circulating conditioned air. I don't understand how this works. You still have to replace the inside air with outside air at some point.
Besides not cooking during the summer, or cracking a window, or simply cooking outside have you guys found any reasonable solution to this problem?
Posted on 7/14/26 at 10:15 am to BitBuster
You could try sealing your windows and doors better with weatherstripping so they don't allow outside air into the house I'd try that first as a fairly low cost fix compared to what you are thinking about.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 10:23 am to BitBuster
quote:
Besides not cooking during the summer, or cracking a window, or simply cooking outside have you guys found any reasonable solution to this problem?
I'm not a specialist here, but you are blowing air inside of your house to the outside at a pretty good rate. I'm not sure what other options you'd have honestly? Your house is going to need to pull air from the outside back inside to balance out.
FWIW I've never really consider this for my own home. It makes sense though.
ETA: Your only real option would be to pull the air into an area that wouldn't bother you as much. Like a bedroom. Open a bedroom or back room window and allow the outside air pulled from there?
This post was edited on 7/14/26 at 10:25 am
Posted on 7/14/26 at 10:35 am to gumbo2176
quote:
Y ou could try sealing your windows and doors better with weatherstripping so they don't allow outside air into the house
The air would then come from somewhere else. I've seen houses with large hood fans pull sheetrock dust from behind receptacle boxes in the kitchen.
Not sure how to do it post-construction, but I have a large hood vent and the AC guys cut in a make up air vent from the AC system to supply air for circulation. It has a flap that opens when the fan comes on.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 11:21 am to slinger1317
our hood is rated at 600 cfm, which I rarely if ever use while cooking, only when I burn something.
on low, I will crack a window 6 ft away until I turn off the hood. I just assume the outside air is being pulled up the vent hood as well.
on low, I will crack a window 6 ft away until I turn off the hood. I just assume the outside air is being pulled up the vent hood as well.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 11:26 am to slinger1317
quote:
Not sure how to do it post-construction, but I have a large hood vent and the AC guys cut in a make up air vent from the AC system to supply air for circulation. It has a flap that opens when the fan comes on.
That's what AI is suggesting too, but I'm not understanding if it's an HVAC system with ERV (fresh air intake to balance air pressure) or a standard HVAC - sealed system. AI is saying it works with a sealed system.
Logic states if I'm pumping 500 CFM of air out, it creates a vacuum and has to draw in air from somewhere. AI says the bypass you describe allows the exhaust to suck air in from every room in the house equally from the ceiling returns.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 12:14 pm to BitBuster
quote:
Logic states if I'm pumping 500 CFM of air out, it creates a vacuum and has to draw in air from somewhere. AI says the bypass you describe allows the exhaust to suck air in from every room in the house equally from the ceiling returns.
You are correct. I assume that's what mine does, but I have never followed the duct from the makeup vent up into the attic
Posted on 7/14/26 at 1:39 pm to BitBuster
So I was adding a high cam vent. Anything over 400cfm needs a make up air system in GA. If you don’t have it you could be pulling shite from your water heater etc. apparently it can cause a carbon monoxide issue. Every solution seemed expensive as hell.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 2:35 pm to slinger1317
quote:
have a large hood vent and the AC guys cut in a make up air vent from the AC system to supply air for circulation. It has a flap that opens when the fan comes on.
One of the jobs I had many years ago was making and installing commercial hoods in restaurant kitchens and one of the options we offered was an exhaust hood with a make-up air feature. It included a thinner area incorporated in the front of the hood that pulled fresh air from outside to be fed into the exhaust side that helped keep the kitchen cooler by not sucking out the A/C. Not that A/C was all that effective in a commercial kitchen..............but every little bit helped.
I tore out the old hood and fire suppression system and installed new equipment in K-Paul's when Prudhomme opened his place in the French Quarter. That's a lifetime ago now.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 3:55 pm to BitBuster
I believe the correct way to do this would be to install a dehumidifier in your attic that also has a makeup air inlet. Has a control switch that opens up the damper for the dehumidifier to pull in the makeup air and dehumidify it prior to dumping it into your air conditioning duct work. Look up an ultra air 98h. There's more literature on there spec sheets.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 5:44 pm to Maillard
Malliard, that's probably the right way to do it, for sure, but dang that's very expensive for make up air. Like Boss said, $$$
Maybe I could do something like Gumbo suggested and put the MUA in the front of the hood. Maybe rig up some sort of dryer vent style system with the intake installed in the soffit outside with some sort of reverse flap or motorized intake. Have flex hose run to front of range hood.
There would be a lot of blowing back out the outside air which would only circulate near the hood, but mischief may be managed by containing it to the hood area?
The house was designed with one of those recirculating hood filters, it didn't exhaust outside, just into the cabinet through the grease filters. I added the external a few years ago. Noticed it sucking stuff in when the hood was on through various cracks only recently. I have a CO monitor, and it never kicked off. But have a house with allergy people and am trying to find a cheaper solution to this "problem".
Like Boss said, GA has it as part of their code for a reason. Supposedly if the CFM is strong enough you can cause a backdraft from the furnace and water heater in the attic causing uncombusted gasses to seep back intothe house.
Maybe I could do something like Gumbo suggested and put the MUA in the front of the hood. Maybe rig up some sort of dryer vent style system with the intake installed in the soffit outside with some sort of reverse flap or motorized intake. Have flex hose run to front of range hood.
There would be a lot of blowing back out the outside air which would only circulate near the hood, but mischief may be managed by containing it to the hood area?
The house was designed with one of those recirculating hood filters, it didn't exhaust outside, just into the cabinet through the grease filters. I added the external a few years ago. Noticed it sucking stuff in when the hood was on through various cracks only recently. I have a CO monitor, and it never kicked off. But have a house with allergy people and am trying to find a cheaper solution to this "problem".
Like Boss said, GA has it as part of their code for a reason. Supposedly if the CFM is strong enough you can cause a backdraft from the furnace and water heater in the attic causing uncombusted gasses to seep back intothe house.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 6:23 pm to BitBuster
Is there a control switch for fan speed?
It is my understanding 500 CFM would vent 50,000 BTU. One normal gas burner puts out between 5k and 10k BTUs on high. A high power one @15 to 20. You aren't running all your burners on high at once to need 500 CFM, Speed control is what is needed.
It is my understanding 500 CFM would vent 50,000 BTU. One normal gas burner puts out between 5k and 10k BTUs on high. A high power one @15 to 20. You aren't running all your burners on high at once to need 500 CFM, Speed control is what is needed.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 6:41 pm to BitBuster
From Google
Types of Makeup Air Systems1. Passive SystemsPassive systems are the most common and cost-effective approach. They consist of an exterior wall hood, an intake duct, and a motorized damper. When you turn on your range hood, an interlocked sensor or pressure switch detects the negative pressure and automatically opens the damper to allow unconditioned, outside air to flow naturally into the home.Pros: Low initial cost, minimal mechanical maintenance, simple setup.Cons: The incoming air is the same temperature as the outside, which can cause drafts or freeze pipes in cold climates.2. Active (Powered) SystemsActive systems use an intake fan to mechanically force fresh outdoor air inside. These systems often include a filter and an inline heater to "temper" the incoming air (warming it up before it enters the living space).Pros: Highly controlled, filtered, and tempered air maximizes comfort.Cons: More expensive to purchase and install; requires regular filter replacement
Maybe you could do something like the passive system have it done to somewhere close in your kitchen.
Types of Makeup Air Systems1. Passive SystemsPassive systems are the most common and cost-effective approach. They consist of an exterior wall hood, an intake duct, and a motorized damper. When you turn on your range hood, an interlocked sensor or pressure switch detects the negative pressure and automatically opens the damper to allow unconditioned, outside air to flow naturally into the home.Pros: Low initial cost, minimal mechanical maintenance, simple setup.Cons: The incoming air is the same temperature as the outside, which can cause drafts or freeze pipes in cold climates.2. Active (Powered) SystemsActive systems use an intake fan to mechanically force fresh outdoor air inside. These systems often include a filter and an inline heater to "temper" the incoming air (warming it up before it enters the living space).Pros: Highly controlled, filtered, and tempered air maximizes comfort.Cons: More expensive to purchase and install; requires regular filter replacement
Maybe you could do something like the passive system have it done to somewhere close in your kitchen.
Posted on 7/14/26 at 10:54 pm to BitBuster
I have, I think, a 630 CFM Thermador. I'm going by memory, it's in the attic which really reduces the noise in the kitchen.
I don't have that problem. I have an outside air duct for fresh air to the AC. /that is code now in this area, all new houses have it. Mine was built in 2013. Even if the AC isn't running, the vent hood should pull air in through that duct. I also have a dehumidifier that runs sparingly, mostly in the Spring when there isn't enough AC load to dehumidify
Broan makes a nice system to specifically bring in fresh air when the vent hood runs.
I don't have that problem. I have an outside air duct for fresh air to the AC. /that is code now in this area, all new houses have it. Mine was built in 2013. Even if the AC isn't running, the vent hood should pull air in through that duct. I also have a dehumidifier that runs sparingly, mostly in the Spring when there isn't enough AC load to dehumidify
Broan makes a nice system to specifically bring in fresh air when the vent hood runs.
This post was edited on 7/14/26 at 10:56 pm
Posted on 7/15/26 at 5:32 am to CharlesUFarley
It’s going to take time to reduce the humidity of outside air though. That’s not going to happen as fast as you are blowing it out, unless you pulled 100% through a dehumidifier/ AC coils. But even then I don’t think systems are 100% efficient in reducing humidity in the summer in the south I doubt you go from 90% humidity to 55% with one pass through of the air. I mean your home hvac system has to run almost continuously to reduce the humidity to comfortable level.
Long story short, outside of an expensive system I’m not sure this is something worth stressing about OP. It is what it is, like kids leaving the door open every time they go outside.
Long story short, outside of an expensive system I’m not sure this is something worth stressing about OP. It is what it is, like kids leaving the door open every time they go outside.
This post was edited on 7/15/26 at 5:34 am
Posted on 7/15/26 at 6:53 am to CharlesUFarley
quote:
I have an outside air duct for fresh air to the AC. /that is code now in this area,
Interesting. Like I said, I have allergy sufferers in the house. I've looked into fresh air systems for years. I live in Lafayette, LA. The standard answer I've always gotten from my HVAC people is that they know they exist but they don't install them because the louisiana humidity kills them and energy costs increase.
If you're in Alabama near the coast, you've probably got way more humidity issues than I've got. Is that why they installed a separate dehumidifier? It's interesting that it's code there now unless they have the problems solved.
Posted on 7/15/26 at 7:03 am to BitBuster
I do know of a ultra air 98h that is close to your location that has been lightly used and is no longer in use. It does have a filter to clean the air prior to coming in the house. It also has its own humidistat so you can control it independently from the air conditioning. Let me know if you're interested.
Posted on 7/15/26 at 7:46 am to BitBuster
quote:
Is that why they installed a separate dehumidifier? It's interesting that it's code there now unless they have the problems solved.
.
Not really. I have spray foam and the AC people were putting them in any house with spray foam back then. The dehu unit will sample air and turn on when needed, it can also control a fresh air damper. It is supposed to work with mixed make up air and AC return air in that configuration. They didn't install it that way, so I had them reconfigure it to parallel the AC but I kept a fresh air inlet with a manual damper (same as standard today). Works good. It does add heat but the heat is distributed through the ducts, not concentrated in one room. I have a high end VFD A/C, so YMMV
Most new whole house dehumidifiers have two inlets, one for make up air and one for return air, and have the standalone capabilities to operate dampers.
Posted on 7/15/26 at 7:53 am to rltiger
quote:
You aren't running all your burners on high at once to need 500 CFM, Speed control is what is needed
It's less about the burners and more about the cooking/smoking/odors for some people.
OP, look into getting an ERV installed.
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