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Life of pool pump
Posted on 6/12/24 at 2:10 pm
Posted on 6/12/24 at 2:10 pm
Have a Hayward VS 950 that the bearings are going out. Started at 3.5 years and we just passed 4 years of the pool. Of course the warranty was 3 years. This a normal lifespan for pump like this? We do run it daily for a few hours in the winter and when temps get down to freezing.
Sound is tolerable, the pump/filter are on other side of the pool from the house, but still maddening something like this didn't last longer. Has anyone bought just a motor replacement or best to get everything new?
Sound is tolerable, the pump/filter are on other side of the pool from the house, but still maddening something like this didn't last longer. Has anyone bought just a motor replacement or best to get everything new?
Posted on 6/12/24 at 2:33 pm to CAT
I'm on year 3 with mine. Running 24/7 and still holding up. Now that I said something I bet it goes out in a week.
Posted on 6/12/24 at 2:52 pm to CAT
Replace the bearings if it sounds bad in the cold. Super easy job if you have a puller and various metal pipes and what laying around.
I have the Pentair VFD going on 10+ years. Bearings might last 5. Just put third set in.
I have the Pentair VFD going on 10+ years. Bearings might last 5. Just put third set in.
Posted on 6/12/24 at 2:53 pm to CAT
Replaced my pool pump motor late last summer. Original lasted right at 4 years. Not a very difficult thing to replace. Might have taken me an hour at most. I plan to order another in a couple years so that I have it on hand when this one goes out. The worst part was waiting on the replacement and trying to keep the water from getting out of hand.
Posted on 6/12/24 at 3:18 pm to Dallaswho
Quick search didn’t show much.
Basically remove impeller righty loosy, hold fan or use Allan on back. Remove fan. Pull front with rotor(may be some magnetic resistance). Use snap ring pliers to remove rotor from front. Pull bearings. Press or lightly tap back on new bearings using only the inner race. For $5 also replace 2 piece ceramic shaft seal. Good as new. The size numbers will be on the bearings, probably 6203 or 6305 or similar. Pentair uses special dry sealed Teflon ones, but 2RS is fine.
Basically remove impeller righty loosy, hold fan or use Allan on back. Remove fan. Pull front with rotor(may be some magnetic resistance). Use snap ring pliers to remove rotor from front. Pull bearings. Press or lightly tap back on new bearings using only the inner race. For $5 also replace 2 piece ceramic shaft seal. Good as new. The size numbers will be on the bearings, probably 6203 or 6305 or similar. Pentair uses special dry sealed Teflon ones, but 2RS is fine.
This post was edited on 6/12/24 at 3:56 pm
Posted on 6/12/24 at 3:28 pm to BMoney
quote:
The worst part was waiting on the replacement and trying to keep the water from getting out of hand.
I keep a cheapo $150 unit on hand with quick unions for this. I have also converted it to 120v and used it to drain the pool as my bottom drains are gone forever. VS motors are $800-$1600 plus though so much better just repair for $30.
Downtime is the worst. I waited on a weird filter part once and lost pretty much the rest of the season cleaning.
This post was edited on 6/12/24 at 3:30 pm
Posted on 6/12/24 at 4:47 pm to Dallaswho
I bought a replacement motor along with three or four sets of the replacement bearings, and three or four sets of the need -to-be-replaced- every -time - you - pull - the - wet-end seals and O-rings
First time, I had a long hot algae- filled week waiting, but once it all arrived, I just pulled the motor and put in the new one.
I replaced the bearings in the old motor and have it on standby.
I think I've swapped out the motors four or five times in 18 years. Enough times that I have had to order more of everything, except the Motors themselves, at least once, and even had to replace some of the wet end, impeller?, the last time
Every 3 to 5 years, either bearings or seals go bad. I just make the Swap and change out everything on the old motor each time. A little neverseize is handy on the hardware that holds the motor together
First time, I had a long hot algae- filled week waiting, but once it all arrived, I just pulled the motor and put in the new one.
I replaced the bearings in the old motor and have it on standby.
I think I've swapped out the motors four or five times in 18 years. Enough times that I have had to order more of everything, except the Motors themselves, at least once, and even had to replace some of the wet end, impeller?, the last time
Every 3 to 5 years, either bearings or seals go bad. I just make the Swap and change out everything on the old motor each time. A little neverseize is handy on the hardware that holds the motor together
This post was edited on 6/12/24 at 4:51 pm
Posted on 6/12/24 at 5:56 pm to luvdoc
Appreciate y’all’s response. I’m no handyman but not inept as well. May need a YT video but sounds like something I could tackle.
Posted on 6/12/24 at 6:02 pm to BMoney
quote:
The worst part was waiting on the replacement and trying to keep the water from getting out of hand.
Mine actually went out the week of Hurricane Harvey and the motor was in a warehouse in Houston. Took about 2 weeks to get to me. My water went to shite while I was waiting.
Posted on 6/12/24 at 6:10 pm to CAT
To try and help the OP (maybe) and me, is there an electrical motor shop in the BR area that has parts or maybe services these motors? I was visiting a friend in the Memphis area and we went to a motor shop that would even swap out motors needing work for rebuilt ones for a small cost.
Posted on 6/12/24 at 6:13 pm to REB BEER
For Pentair you just need snap ring pliers, a universal puller, torx bits, and maybe a 6” piece of 1” black steel pipe.
Only weird part is pulling the rotor with the front plate still attached as there is considerable magnetism holding it in place and you can’t see anything so it’s a blind yank.
Yours looks very similar. Hopefully forums have bearing and shaft sea numbers. If not, probably a ton of bearing stores near you due to oil and gas. I have to drive 45 min here to one.
Only weird part is pulling the rotor with the front plate still attached as there is considerable magnetism holding it in place and you can’t see anything so it’s a blind yank.
Yours looks very similar. Hopefully forums have bearing and shaft sea numbers. If not, probably a ton of bearing stores near you due to oil and gas. I have to drive 45 min here to one.
This post was edited on 6/12/24 at 6:15 pm
Posted on 6/12/24 at 7:00 pm to Dallaswho
I replaced mine not due to bearings; it was an electrical problem. Every time I’d turn it on it would pop loudly, spark, and trip the breaker. It was easier to replace than dive into an electrical problem.
This post was edited on 6/13/24 at 9:00 am
Posted on 6/13/24 at 8:59 am to REB BEER
quote:
Mine actually went out the week of Hurricane Harvey and the motor was in a warehouse in Houston. Took about 2 weeks to get to me. My water went to shite while I was waiting.
That would be terrible. I had a pond pump that I was able to drop in my pool and use a sprinkler attached to it to at least circulate the water while I waited. But that wouldn't have worked without power.
Posted on 6/13/24 at 10:05 am to BMoney
if you have a motor type that is separate like that amazon link, i do too, they are getting phased out very soon.
I think mine usually last around 5 years, most of the other parts of the pump seem to be aging so next time it goes out i will probably transition to the newer model that suppose to save a lot of energy and is quieter.
We save money by changing them ourselves. Just need a little muscle and take pictures of how the wires are hooked up.
Check your capacitor first before replacing the motor.
IGNORE - looks like you have a newer model.
I think mine usually last around 5 years, most of the other parts of the pump seem to be aging so next time it goes out i will probably transition to the newer model that suppose to save a lot of energy and is quieter.
We save money by changing them ourselves. Just need a little muscle and take pictures of how the wires are hooked up.
Check your capacitor first before replacing the motor.
IGNORE - looks like you have a newer model.
This post was edited on 6/13/24 at 10:07 am
Posted on 6/13/24 at 1:46 pm to FMtTXtiger
I think what’s being phased out are the single speed motors. You can buy new-age VFD drivers that are drop-in replacements for them.
Posted on 6/13/24 at 11:51 pm to CAT
3-4 sounds about right. I just had to replace mine after a little over 3 years.
Probably could have been more diligent with cleaning baskets and filter to make it not work as hard, or the post-Ida recovery or the super heatwave May have also had some effect.
Probably could have been more diligent with cleaning baskets and filter to make it not work as hard, or the post-Ida recovery or the super heatwave May have also had some effect.
Posted on 6/13/24 at 11:53 pm to jdavid1
quote:
Running 24/7
Is that normal? We run about 8 hrs a day, little less in the winter.
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