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re: I'm building a Metal Shop

Posted on 2/22/26 at 7:17 pm to
Posted by KCRoyalBlue
Member since Nov 2020
2236 posts
Posted on 2/22/26 at 7:17 pm to
Don't know you, but proud as hell of you, baw. I don't have the knowledge or skill to do anything like this at all.

Safety first and keep us updated!
Posted by BLM
ATL
Member since Oct 2011
784 posts
Posted on 2/22/26 at 11:09 pm to
Just seeing this thread. Great work! Only thing that comes to mind you may want in there is some type of overhead lift/winch.
Posted by WhiskeyThrottle
Weatherford Tx
Member since Nov 2017
7239 posts
Posted on 2/23/26 at 6:42 am to
quote:

Just seeing this thread. Great work! Only thing that comes to mind you may want in there is some type of overhead lift/winch.



I designed the trusses specifically to be able to add a gantry crane in there. It's not going to lift thousands of pounds, but some of my projects seem to run into the 200 - 400 lb range which is heavy enough that I can't just lift it up easily. The welder I believe is around 400 lbs and I move it in and out of my truck frequently. So I definitely need something to move a little bit of weight in there.

With a normal I Beam design without trusses, I was afraid to suspend much weight from the ceiling. The weight transfers straight to the joint at the peak, and pushes down to the walls outward. That's why I decided to build with actual trusses.

Really wish I knew structural engineering math. The trusses I designed I believe I could suspend 4 or 5000 lbs without an issue. I don't plan to do that, but my curiosity has me wondering what the failure point is. From what I've read, it seems that engineers are more concerned with deflection, more than failure. But I still wish I knew how much weight I could support safely. I have no clue how to go about finding an engineer that would tell me what I've done. Lol.

I've been working on framing the bathroom this weekend and getting the garage door working. I screwed the rails for the door to the frame this weekend and I'm going to have to slightly adjust them now. It got too tight in a couple of areas. I'll get more pictures added this afternoon.
Posted by WhiskeyThrottle
Weatherford Tx
Member since Nov 2017
7239 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 8:26 am to
Been a couple of months since I've updated the thread. Here are some random updated pictures.

The electrical in the whole building I would say is about 95% complete. Just need one more circuit for the microwave in the guest house, relocate the fridge circuit, and add a 10' run of wire for the bar nook. Lights are installed and hanging in the guest house now. Outlets are all terminated in the guest house also.

I've gone through 2000 feet of 12/2 Romex 300 feet of 10/2 and 375 feet of 6/2.

Air conditioner and ducting were contracted out and installed last week. It is a 2 ton 2 stage heat pump unit.

Water lines are all roughed in for the kitchen and bathroom. When I poured the concrete, I put a 2" PVC stub in so I could pull the water up into the building instead of coming up above the ground and T'ing into the building. Had to find a way to latch on to the pex and pull it through. Wanted a 1" line all the way to the water treatment area so I welded up the expanding contraption seen in the picture in my hand. The rest of the water lines are 3/4" all the way to the faucets.

The water treatment is a Carbon filter, water softener and inline filter. I'm waiting on a drain pan to come in before I hook these all up. Installed a tankless water heater as well. It required 3 40A circuits. That stung a little.

Insulation is the biggest expense remaining, and is the second most expensive part of this build. I didn't realize it was going to be $15k to spray foam this thing. So I decided to make a little extra money on the side a couple of weekends ago.

I was contracted to frame up a shop for another guy. Took 4 days to frame. Now I'm helping him with his electrical as well. It's a friend of a friend. He's in an HOA and he was worried about the HOA giving him grief about his building so he decided to skin it in camo. And sure enough, the nosie Karens in the neighborhood were posting on their neighborhood app asking why all the "commercial" vehicles were coming and going. But you physically cannot see the shop without driving down his driveway and down a hill.










Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48830 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 9:24 am to
you do nice worth brother. On that water heater I would have been tempted to go propane even with a 10 gal bottle.
Posted by WhiskeyThrottle
Weatherford Tx
Member since Nov 2017
7239 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 9:35 am to
quote:

you do nice worth brother. On that water heater I would have been tempted to go propane even with a 10 gal bottle.



Thanks man.

I went back and forth on it. The bathtub the wife wanted is a capacity of 81 gallons and she likes to take baths frequently. She won't be filling it up 81 gallons every time, but I don't know how much she'll actually use. There's so much conflicting information around efficiency and convenience. Decided to go this route and if it doesn't work I can change it up later.
Posted by WhiskeyThrottle
Weatherford Tx
Member since Nov 2017
7239 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 9:46 am to
I found a level that gets you insanely accurate. Brand name is stabila. Not exactly cheap, but I wish I had it when I framed my shop. A couple of the posts are not quite level and it's nothing anyone would notice, but it drives me insane. It's digital and prints out down to the hundredth of an inch per foot how out of level you are. We were able to get the posts accurate to .01 inch per foot.

Used it on the camo shop and that thing is about as dead nuts level as you can get.

I also bought a bosch laser tape measure. That thing saved me a ton of measuring on the shop I framed up as well.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
48830 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 11:10 am to
Yes everyone should have a laser tape. The one I have you can take to the saw and cut to scary accuracy
Posted by Wraytex
San Antonio - Gonzales
Member since Jun 2020
4014 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 11:57 am to
I've had a 3 axis green laser for my barn interior buildout, i recently bought a cheapo 2 axis to use in conjunction with the other for hanging wall cabinets. I find the studs behind a particular cabinet and align the lasers on them then put the cabinet hanging cleat up with the studs still shown by the lasers, then finally the hold down screws when the cabinet is hung.
Posted by WhiskeyThrottle
Weatherford Tx
Member since Nov 2017
7239 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 1:49 pm to
quote:

Yes everyone should have a laser tape. The one I have you can take to the saw and cut to scary accuracy



I found it useful to measure distances between I Beams. It's trivial to complain about having to measure a 15' span but the damn tape measure always seems to slide off as soon as I get it to where I need. And like you said, it's scary accurate.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
72080 posts
Posted on 4/10/26 at 5:15 pm to
quote:

Really wish I knew structural engineering math


I know a dinky looking steel truss is extremely strong. Im sure theres tables available for round numbers. I used to know how to do this stuff.
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