- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
DIY Desks - Recs & Sanity Checks
Posted on 12/10/22 at 2:16 pm
Posted on 12/10/22 at 2:16 pm
Remodeling office and will be building two desks. One will be built into a closet, and the other freestanding. My biggest problem is I have minimal knowledge of wood. These are my plans:
Closet Desk
The closet measures 84" x 24" with a 60" door opening, and the desktop will be the full width by about 22" deep. The desktop will be "floating" with no legs, secured to the wall on three sides. I plan to use 2x2 sticks to frame it, just a simple "ladder" frame with the long back and two short sides screwed to wall studs. I'll put 1/2 ply on the top and a 1x3 appearance board on the front edge. I realize that 84" is a pretty long span to keep flat with no support, but I think if I keep it chocked up while the glue dries then it should be pretty strong with the 2x2 with 1/2" ply top and 1x3 on edge even if I just use finishing nails and no screws. Am I missing anything?
I want to use a white stain with a few coats of polyurethane. Do I need to get a particular type of wood ply and appearance board for white stain? Would it be awful if they were two different woods? I'm trying to do this pretty cheaply, but wood prices seem all over the place and I have no idea what the difference is in everything.
Freestanding Desk
I will build the desktop just like the closet desk, with a 2x2 frame, 1/2" ply top, and 1x3 all around. I will probably just do plain square legs, and I'm thinking that I will use some more 1x3 to make a hollow box leg with blocks on the inside at the top and bottom. I think this will be cheaper (and lighter) than using solid posts, plus I want to run a power cord inside of one leg so that the "desk" can plug in and then it'll have a power strip tucked into the desktop.
So in addition to the same wood selection question as above, is this a decent idea for the legs? Also can someone direct me to some adjustable foot inserts?
Thanks!
Closet Desk
The closet measures 84" x 24" with a 60" door opening, and the desktop will be the full width by about 22" deep. The desktop will be "floating" with no legs, secured to the wall on three sides. I plan to use 2x2 sticks to frame it, just a simple "ladder" frame with the long back and two short sides screwed to wall studs. I'll put 1/2 ply on the top and a 1x3 appearance board on the front edge. I realize that 84" is a pretty long span to keep flat with no support, but I think if I keep it chocked up while the glue dries then it should be pretty strong with the 2x2 with 1/2" ply top and 1x3 on edge even if I just use finishing nails and no screws. Am I missing anything?
I want to use a white stain with a few coats of polyurethane. Do I need to get a particular type of wood ply and appearance board for white stain? Would it be awful if they were two different woods? I'm trying to do this pretty cheaply, but wood prices seem all over the place and I have no idea what the difference is in everything.
Freestanding Desk
I will build the desktop just like the closet desk, with a 2x2 frame, 1/2" ply top, and 1x3 all around. I will probably just do plain square legs, and I'm thinking that I will use some more 1x3 to make a hollow box leg with blocks on the inside at the top and bottom. I think this will be cheaper (and lighter) than using solid posts, plus I want to run a power cord inside of one leg so that the "desk" can plug in and then it'll have a power strip tucked into the desktop.
So in addition to the same wood selection question as above, is this a decent idea for the legs? Also can someone direct me to some adjustable foot inserts?
Thanks!
2
Posted on 12/10/22 at 5:04 pm to Korkstand
So, on the closet desk, an 84” span using 2x2 is going to sag. You’ll need to support that span with some type of hardware/bracket if you’re determined not to use any legs on the front.
Use birch ply and poplar for your trim boards. But why stain and poly? A good white trim paint will hold up great and be much easier.
For the freestanding desk, why not build two drawer boxes for storage and set your desktop on that? Much more practical to have storage. In fact, I’d do the same in the closet. Build two drawer or shelf boxes 18” deep that face inward toward the center of the closet. Solves your span problem, gives you some storage for things you don’t often access, and gives you 48” leg room.
Use birch ply and poplar for your trim boards. But why stain and poly? A good white trim paint will hold up great and be much easier.
For the freestanding desk, why not build two drawer boxes for storage and set your desktop on that? Much more practical to have storage. In fact, I’d do the same in the closet. Build two drawer or shelf boxes 18” deep that face inward toward the center of the closet. Solves your span problem, gives you some storage for things you don’t often access, and gives you 48” leg room.
This post was edited on 12/10/22 at 5:10 pm
Posted on 12/10/22 at 6:41 pm to GeauxldMember
That closet desk is going to sag excessively.
Move up to a 3/4" plywood with a 1X3 edge band and it will be much better. Fastener doesn't mater as much as glue with appropriate pressure. I like tight bond 2 for this.
sag calculator
Move up to a 3/4" plywood with a 1X3 edge band and it will be much better. Fastener doesn't mater as much as glue with appropriate pressure. I like tight bond 2 for this.
sag calculator
Posted on 12/11/22 at 12:27 am to GeauxldMember
Thanks for the feedback!
But on the other hand, the reason I DIY a lot of stuff is to learn so I may give it a go anyway. I did plan to add drawers/storage eventually anyway, but I like modular stuff so I was thinking I could build a unit that could slide under her desk to give the typical built-in appearance, or I could slide it out and put a top on it to give additional desktop space in either an L or I configuration.
Do you think my proposed leg construction is just a bad idea?
quote:I don't think it would be too hard to add support if it sags. I can either come off the door frame so that the unsupported span would be only ~60", or if that's still no good I can cut it down to a 48" span and run the supports on an angle out to the sides and down to the floor.
So, on the closet desk, an 84” span using 2x2 is going to sag. You’ll need to support that span with some type of hardware/bracket if you’re determined not to use any legs on the front.
quote:Thanks!
Use birch ply and poplar for your trim boards.
quote:I don't know, it just seemed like the thing to do. I thought it might look pretty good. And I figure if I stain it and I don't like it then I can paint over it.
But why stain and poly? A good white trim paint will hold up great and be much easier.
quote:Well for one thing I'm not a very experienced carpenter, and I'm not sure I want my first stab at drawers to be on my wife's desk.
For the freestanding desk, why not build two drawer boxes for storage and set your desktop on that? Much more practical to have storage.
But on the other hand, the reason I DIY a lot of stuff is to learn so I may give it a go anyway. I did plan to add drawers/storage eventually anyway, but I like modular stuff so I was thinking I could build a unit that could slide under her desk to give the typical built-in appearance, or I could slide it out and put a top on it to give additional desktop space in either an L or I configuration. Do you think my proposed leg construction is just a bad idea?
Posted on 12/11/22 at 12:44 am to armsdealer
quote:I am anticipating the possibility of sag, and I think I have some good options for adding support without going to a heavier ply.
That closet desk is going to sag excessively.
Move up to a 3/4" plywood with a 1X3 edge band and it will be much better.
quote:That's what I was thinking, so thanks for the confirmation and for the glue rec.
Fastener doesn't mater as much as glue with appropriate pressure. I like tight bond 2 for this.
Not sure I'm using that calculator correctly, but in any case I think I won't really know how bad it will be until I do it. I'll just sit on it when I'm done, and if it sags at all I'll fix it. If I have to I can add some huge gussets that wouldn't be visible or take away legroom, or worst case as another poster mentioned just add shelving under there and use the sides for support.
Posted on 12/11/22 at 8:48 am to Korkstand
quote:
I am anticipating the possibility of sag, and I think I have some good options for adding support without going to a heavier ply.
84” span is a lot for a shelf like that. The edge band is taking most of the load to counter the sag. One thing I’ve thought about is adding a steel plate on the back side of the edge band to reinforce it and prevent sag.
A 1x3 edge band with a 1/2” top, you could glue and screw a 2” wide 1/8” thick steel plate to the back of the edge band, flush with the bottom. This would eliminate the need to have extra braces or supports.
Posted on 12/11/22 at 10:35 am to Korkstand
quote:
I did plan to add drawers/storage eventually anyway, but I like modular stuff so I was thinking I could build a unit that could slide under her desk to give the typical built-in appearance
You could use two cheap IKEA type cabinets with drawers/storage that probably cost about the same amount you would spend on materials to build.
Posted on 12/11/22 at 11:51 am to Korkstand
I think you are not going to be happy with the 1/2” ply top and the relatively minimal support you are planning.
Look up torsion box. This is what you need for that span. You could use 1/2” ply for the top and perhaps 1/4” ply for the bottom to keep it light. Maybe even 1/4” for both.
If fitting into the closet, remember to leave it short enough to angle in and have enough clearance to settle down onto the supports.
A Look at Torsion Boxes
Look up torsion box. This is what you need for that span. You could use 1/2” ply for the top and perhaps 1/4” ply for the bottom to keep it light. Maybe even 1/4” for both.
If fitting into the closet, remember to leave it short enough to angle in and have enough clearance to settle down onto the supports.
A Look at Torsion Boxes
Posted on 12/12/22 at 9:53 am to LSUtigerME
quote:
84” span is a lot for a shelf like that. The edge band is taking most of the load to counter the sag. One thing I’ve thought about is adding a steel plate on the back side of the edge band to reinforce it and prevent sag.
This really isn't necessary. There are sag calculators for shelves. This is just a big shelf. I ran it real quick with 100 lb point load in the middle (1/2" ply top and 3"x 3/4" edge banding front) and it was "borderline". You up the thickness to 2x material (1.5" thick) on the edge banding and it's totally acceptable.
Posted on 12/12/22 at 12:11 pm to Jon A thon
So turns out 5/8" birch ply is more available than 1/2" and it's not too pricey so I'm going to go with that. I also just learned that poplar comes in random dimensions so I'll just get something heavier or maybe double it up. And if these calculators are correct that should be pretty stiff.
Posted on 12/19/22 at 9:01 am to Korkstand
Update, built the desk yesterday afternoon/evening.
Turns out 5/8" ply wasn't available either, so I used 3/4". I also took the advice given and am going with a trim paint instead of stain/poly.
Here it is with just a coat of primer:
And I don't see any noticeable sag:
Hope it stays that way as I add load to it, but the heaviest things will be near the walls so I think it'll be ok. It feels sturdy when I put my own weight on it.
Also as mentioned ITT, I did have to consider how I would get the top in there (I knew it would be tricky because I had already ripped some full width shelves out of there). I had to do my dry fitting with only the boards screwed to the walls as that was the only way the top would go in and out, then build the rest of the frame with the top stood up on edge. That back wall has a significant wave to it, 3/8" or more, but I can't really tell after fitting the desk to it. I wish I had made it fit tighter (there's about 1/8" gap all around), but I think after I caulk it it will look pretty good.
I have quite a few hours in this room already (ripped out a bunch of old built-ins, pulled up tile floors and really old vinyl under the built-ins, patched and painted walls, repaired floor molding, etc) and I have a lot of hours to go with more sanding and painting (obviously including that section of floor molding under the desk), laying down the new flooring, adding one or more outlets in the desk closet, and I'm going to put some cool programmable RGB LED strips all around the inside of the closet/desk opening.
I'll post another update when it's all done, maybe with a video of the LEDs looking all pretty.
Turns out 5/8" ply wasn't available either, so I used 3/4". I also took the advice given and am going with a trim paint instead of stain/poly.
Here it is with just a coat of primer:
And I don't see any noticeable sag:
Hope it stays that way as I add load to it, but the heaviest things will be near the walls so I think it'll be ok. It feels sturdy when I put my own weight on it.
Also as mentioned ITT, I did have to consider how I would get the top in there (I knew it would be tricky because I had already ripped some full width shelves out of there). I had to do my dry fitting with only the boards screwed to the walls as that was the only way the top would go in and out, then build the rest of the frame with the top stood up on edge. That back wall has a significant wave to it, 3/8" or more, but I can't really tell after fitting the desk to it. I wish I had made it fit tighter (there's about 1/8" gap all around), but I think after I caulk it it will look pretty good.
I have quite a few hours in this room already (ripped out a bunch of old built-ins, pulled up tile floors and really old vinyl under the built-ins, patched and painted walls, repaired floor molding, etc) and I have a lot of hours to go with more sanding and painting (obviously including that section of floor molding under the desk), laying down the new flooring, adding one or more outlets in the desk closet, and I'm going to put some cool programmable RGB LED strips all around the inside of the closet/desk opening.
I'll post another update when it's all done, maybe with a video of the LEDs looking all pretty.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News