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Started By
Message
Closing in attic space - rafters/joists/supports moving
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:07 pm
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:07 pm
I've got a space in a walk in attic that could be fairly straightforward to close in. It would be strictly a bonus type room, no sleeping. Thinking of using it as a home theater. Space would be 15 x 10.
Floor joists are 2x10 on 16 center. spans 12'6 on one side, 8ish on the other.
Roof rafters are 2x6 on 16 center. The pic below shows some bracing that I think is extra and completely unnecessary. Do you agree? Why or why not?
F'ing pics didn't load the first 2 times...
Attic framing
Floor joists are 2x10 on 16 center. spans 12'6 on one side, 8ish on the other.
Roof rafters are 2x6 on 16 center. The pic below shows some bracing that I think is extra and completely unnecessary. Do you agree? Why or why not?
F'ing pics didn't load the first 2 times...
Attic framing
This post was edited on 8/14/20 at 2:10 pm
10
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:27 pm to AUjim
quote:
The pic below shows some bracing that I think is extra and completely unnecessary.
The structural engineer that designed them probably disagrees with you.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:32 pm to MikeBRLA
Yea, you need and engineer to redesign/ modify those rafter supports. You can’t just remove them
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:39 pm to AUjim
My guess is the way both are supported in the one area underneath that there is a load supporting wall underneath. is there anything on the right side to bring the load straight down
This post was edited on 8/14/20 at 2:40 pm
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:40 pm to AUjim
Yeah, those look necessary. Without them, it doesn't look like the faces of your roof have any horizontal bracing...but feel free to remove them and report back to us 
If you're dead set on making that an enclosed area, hire an engineer to reframe the area, and you can do all the other work
If you're dead set on making that an enclosed area, hire an engineer to reframe the area, and you can do all the other work
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:43 pm to AUjim
You will also need a minimum of 12" of insulation in the cieling so include that in your calculation of usable space you will have.
This post was edited on 8/14/20 at 2:44 pm
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:50 pm to The Nino
quote:
it doesn't look like the faces of your roof have any horizontal bracing.
That's what I was going to say. That's pretty well-made house actually. I'd leave it.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 2:58 pm to NYCAuburn
Those could have just been installed to hold the rafters in place during construction and never demoed
Posted on 8/14/20 at 3:08 pm to Zappas Stache
quote:
You will also need a minimum of 12" of insulation in the cieling
Why do you say 12?
Posted on 8/14/20 at 3:09 pm to AUjim
(no message)
This post was edited on 10/18/21 at 3:46 pm
Posted on 8/14/20 at 3:11 pm to The Nino
I agree that they look necessary. But based on every span table i can find for rafters and floor joists, I can't see that they are.....
My plan would be to have knee walls with a stud up to each rafter.
My plan would be to have knee walls with a stud up to each rafter.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 3:13 pm to lsutiger2010
quote:
You won't get much of a screen in there
I'm talking more like our family of 4 watching movies in a completely dark room on a huge tv.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 3:55 pm to djangochained
quote:
Those could have just been installed to hold the rafters in place during construction and never demoed
If those were only for temp shoring, there would not have been that many. My money says they are needed. At a minimum, you'll end up with the roof sagging, then leaking.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 4:37 pm to AUjim
quote:
The pic below shows some bracing that I think is extra and completely unnecessary.
You can't cut out the purlin bracing. Purlin braces shall be 2 X 4's and shall be installed to bearing walls. The slope (angle) shall not be more than 45 degrees from the horizontal and spaced no more than 48" on center. The length of the purlin brace cannot exceed 8 feet without being braced.
This post was edited on 8/14/20 at 8:04 pm
Posted on 8/14/20 at 4:39 pm to AUjim
quote:What year was your house built? Regardless, some simple wall with reinforced headers might be all that's necessary, but I think this is one of those situations where you spend $1000 on a expert to saved $10000+ on frickups. But there are several structural/construction baws on here that could give you a more definitive answer once they see this thread
I agree that they look necessary. But based on every span table i can find for rafters and floor joists, I can't see that they are.....
quote:Slap some flex-seal on both sides and he's good to go
At a minimum, you'll end up with the roof sagging, then leaking.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 4:44 pm to AUjim
I would NOT get rid of that bracing. There's too much of it to not be necessary. It's not like the builders just had extra time, money, and supplies on hand and said "hey guys, lets see how much more we can work". That bracing is there for a reason.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 4:55 pm to AUjim
quote:
My plan would be to have knee walls with a stud up to each rafter.
I'm certainly no expert but I'll contribute my idiotic opinion. I think your plan as long as you're doing the knee walls as you describe will work. I have this exact same configuration in my house and it's been that way since the 1970s.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 5:09 pm to AUjim
quote:
Why do you say 12?
That equates to R38 which is the minimum insulation you want in an attic/cieling the the south.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 5:15 pm to NYCAuburn
Just hang a tv on that wall - shite, you already have chairs up there. badabing baw.
Posted on 8/14/20 at 5:47 pm to AUjim
Where is the home located? Snow load?
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