- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
A/C condensate pan overflow
Posted on 6/17/21 at 9:24 am
Posted on 6/17/21 at 9:24 am
Last month our AC stopped blowing cold, the first thing I checked was the pan and it was dry. I ended up calling out an AC company who checked it over and said there was a 2nd inline float switch that was backing up. They claimed to clear the lines and said it was good to go. It started doing the same thing later that evening. I called the tech back out and he removed the inline float switch which he said was standard practice.
Today we noticed the ceiling bubbling and I knew immediately what it was. Went up and checked the main drain pan which was filled this time. I am thinking not only did they not clean the lines correctly but the must not have wired the float switch back correctly.
What all do I need to be concerned with besides the ceiling and paint? Does the insulation need to be removed?
Today we noticed the ceiling bubbling and I knew immediately what it was. Went up and checked the main drain pan which was filled this time. I am thinking not only did they not clean the lines correctly but the must not have wired the float switch back correctly.
What all do I need to be concerned with besides the ceiling and paint? Does the insulation need to be removed?
7
Posted on 6/17/21 at 9:33 am to Whatafrekinchessiebr
quote:
I called the tech back out and he removed the inline float switch which he said was standard practice.
Uh, removing the float switch is not a good idea for a condenser in the attic.
My main unit is in the attic and it has drain line issues every year about this time. Last week I poured some bleach in the drain line to clear it.
Three years ago I had the AC guy clear the line with his compressed air. He blew open a joint in the drain line above my son's closet, which quickly turned moldy. We had to remove and replace everything that got wet, insulation and sheet rock. Basically had to rebuild the closet. The problem with water coming from the attic down is that when it gets into the sheet rock it molds quickly.
As for the specific damage you have, I cant really tell. However, if it was me, I would remove and replace everything that got wet. And I would make sure the float switches are installed and working.
Posted on 6/17/21 at 9:44 am to Whatafrekinchessiebr
quote:
I ended up calling out an AC company who checked it over and said there was a 2nd inline float switch that was backing up.
If this is a legit company, I’d make sure to contact them and have them cover the repairs. The float switches are intended to prevent issues just like this. Disabling or removing that switch directly resulting in an overflow and damage is 100% on the AC company. The technician should be correcting the action, not wiring a bypass around the safety features. If he thought the switch was bad, you should have been given the option of replacing the switch.
Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:01 am to Whatafrekinchessiebr
Well they screwed up by removing the float switch.
Regarding damage repair, I would not be worried about mold.
Just let theings dry, cut out the loose paper on the sheetrock and patch/float/paint.
Regarding damage repair, I would not be worried about mold.
Just let theings dry, cut out the loose paper on the sheetrock and patch/float/paint.
Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:32 am to Whatafrekinchessiebr
When I had my system replaced in 2014 I made sure they installed a large plastic pan with all new drain lines, the original steel pan was so rotted from rust that it was a miracle it never caused a major issue. I installed a powered automatic condensate pump as extra redundancy on the secondary line and plumbed with its own discharge line. It sits in the drain pan so if it fails it will overflow into the pan where it will trip a moisture alarm. I use the regular float switch in the pan instead of using the condensation pump's connections for that function.
Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:40 am to Whatafrekinchessiebr
A legit company would want to come and make good on the repairs-this is as long as your story is straight. Get another company to come out if the first company doesn't take care of this asap.
Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:42 am to Whatafrekinchessiebr
I had this happen to me. Pan overflow and drained down two floors.
I didn't have any insulation affected(I have spray foam on the rafters). I had a remediation team come out expecting them to put some fans out etc. Long story short, didn't end up having to do that, and just ran some fans and monitored the moisture level and it dropped normal range rather quickly. That was about a year ago and I haven't seen any mold spots pop up. I do have a water stain that I'm going to have to do a better job trying to paint despite using the the kill upshot etc. If I had insulation I probably would have removed and replaced that.
I also agree with the other posterior regarding the float switch. They should have some responsibility to help mitigate if they disabled the float switch or messed up your wiring.
If it looks to be a fair bit of damage you could file a claim with your homeowners. I didn't initially file a claim and it was consider a covered claim under my policy, but ultimately didn't need to really do much with it as the damage was minimal.
I didn't have any insulation affected(I have spray foam on the rafters). I had a remediation team come out expecting them to put some fans out etc. Long story short, didn't end up having to do that, and just ran some fans and monitored the moisture level and it dropped normal range rather quickly. That was about a year ago and I haven't seen any mold spots pop up. I do have a water stain that I'm going to have to do a better job trying to paint despite using the the kill upshot etc. If I had insulation I probably would have removed and replaced that.
I also agree with the other posterior regarding the float switch. They should have some responsibility to help mitigate if they disabled the float switch or messed up your wiring.
If it looks to be a fair bit of damage you could file a claim with your homeowners. I didn't initially file a claim and it was consider a covered claim under my policy, but ultimately didn't need to really do much with it as the damage was minimal.
Posted on 6/17/21 at 10:49 am to windmill
Water alert detectors are very inexpensive. Some have a siren sound and some can even send you a text. I have them in the a/c drain pans as well as the water heater pans. Also one in the laundry room. Just check Amazon for "water alert"
Posted on 6/17/21 at 11:11 am to Whatafrekinchessiebr
The tech just left, he said the float switch that was “deleted” is not typical on the style unit I have and would usually only be installed on a closet unit where they didn’t have room for a drain pan.
He also mentioned the pipe was disconnected and implied I may have disconnected it when I was draining the pan (I did not).
He also tested the primary float switch on the drain pan and determined it was bad but said the previous tech said it tested ok last month.
He re-plumbed the main drain properly (and claimed to properly delete the inline switch).
He also installed a new switch on the pan in the lowest position and set it to trip well before the pan fills up.
He also said the owner will be contacting me shortly after he reviews everything to discuss repairs but they are usually good about standing behind there work. We I’ll see how it goes, I have used them in the past without issue so I am hoping this gets resolved without much additional headache.
He also mentioned the pipe was disconnected and implied I may have disconnected it when I was draining the pan (I did not).
He also tested the primary float switch on the drain pan and determined it was bad but said the previous tech said it tested ok last month.
He re-plumbed the main drain properly (and claimed to properly delete the inline switch).
He also installed a new switch on the pan in the lowest position and set it to trip well before the pan fills up.
He also said the owner will be contacting me shortly after he reviews everything to discuss repairs but they are usually good about standing behind there work. We I’ll see how it goes, I have used them in the past without issue so I am hoping this gets resolved without much additional headache.
Posted on 6/17/21 at 8:43 pm to TBoy
Condensers aren’t in attic genius
Posted on 6/17/21 at 9:01 pm to Whatafrekinchessiebr
He also tested the primary float switch on the drain pan and determined it was bad but said the previous tech said it tested ok last month.
--
Not likely that switch went bad over the last 30 days.
Posted on 6/18/21 at 7:13 am to ItzMe1972
Fwiw, float switches aren’t guarantees or even close to it to stop leaks. They mostly just slow them down considerably for the resident to notice the issue and resolve it. Have had multiple overflows/ leaks in rental units with float switches activated but tenants being idiots. “I was wondering why the thermostat kept turning off!”
All the float switch does is when it’s filled with water the switch floats and cuts power to the thermostat. What happens often is the water will slowly drain, float switch lowers, and ac kicks back on, and more condensate is produced and causes an overflow/ leak again.
I’ve DIY pumps that are only $30-40 and it’s extremely easy and cheap to do. Highly recommend for 2nd floor units or anywhere a small leak would an issue. You simply add 2 Ts or Ys in your drain line. When the drain line stops up the water backs up to the T and flows into the pump. The pump kicks on and pumps the water out. The pump is not quiet so when you hear it, you know you have a drain line blockage.
ETA: This is what I'm talking about OP. Again, basic plumping and PVC skills and an outlet and this is a fantastic back up IMO for under $50 for any AC systems not on the ground floor. Works great along with a Float switch, I don't know why they aren't installed more often.
All the float switch does is when it’s filled with water the switch floats and cuts power to the thermostat. What happens often is the water will slowly drain, float switch lowers, and ac kicks back on, and more condensate is produced and causes an overflow/ leak again.
I’ve DIY pumps that are only $30-40 and it’s extremely easy and cheap to do. Highly recommend for 2nd floor units or anywhere a small leak would an issue. You simply add 2 Ts or Ys in your drain line. When the drain line stops up the water backs up to the T and flows into the pump. The pump kicks on and pumps the water out. The pump is not quiet so when you hear it, you know you have a drain line blockage.
ETA: This is what I'm talking about OP. Again, basic plumping and PVC skills and an outlet and this is a fantastic back up IMO for under $50 for any AC systems not on the ground floor. Works great along with a Float switch, I don't know why they aren't installed more often.
This post was edited on 6/18/21 at 10:09 am
Posted on 6/18/21 at 2:41 pm to baldona
I would never put an A/C condenser in the attic. My condenser is outside and the evaporator / blower is in the attic.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News