- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Coaching Changes
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: 22 hp Kawasaki,Scag mower using oil.
Posted on 8/16/25 at 2:29 am to windmill
Posted on 8/16/25 at 2:29 am to windmill
quote:
What does this "do" for the engine?
You could argue nothing. You could argue nothing good.
But... Every engine I do it in I see less: iron, aluminium, and copper in the oil.
In my mind its because the particles well under 5 microns are burnishing into the metal and reducing friction. Who knows.
I'm told there is no way for the particles to remain in suspension... Yet they change the oil color black as night upon being added.
Call it snake oil, but for my apps, I see less wear metals.
I don't endorse it. I just use it.
Posted on 8/16/25 at 5:12 am to LSUA 75
This is very interesting to me. After reading this thread, I went check my oil level in my Scag mower with 515hrs on it. The dipstick was almost bare (just the tip had oil on it). Changed the oil in March/April time frame. While this is not what the OP is seeing, the unit is burning oil or something. I'm very happy to come across this so I can stay on top of it.
I have a Toro z master with 1000hrs and never had the oil level move. Both mowers have Kawasaki engines (Scag 23HP, Toro 21HP).
I have a Toro z master with 1000hrs and never had the oil level move. Both mowers have Kawasaki engines (Scag 23HP, Toro 21HP).
Posted on 8/16/25 at 10:08 am to X123F45
quote:
Kawi oil isn't even that high in zinc. T6 5w40 is higher.
Last VOA on Kawasaki OPE oil had around 1400ppm zinc, that's higher than the T6 VOA's I've seen. Kawasaki recommends oils with at least 1100ppm, so T6 is probably ok but since Kawasaki-labeled oil is significantly higher then it's probably a better idea to err on their side. Their are HDEO's with much higher zinc levels too. Kawasaki also states that using multigrade oils can show increased oil consumption, so if the OP is using automotive multigrade engine oils that are too thin for the operating temperature he is using them in, that's probably the issue.
Posted on 8/16/25 at 11:54 am to Clames
quote:
Kawasaki also states that using multigrade oils can show increased oil consumption, so if the OP is using automotive multigrade engine oils that are too thin for the operating temperature he is using them in, that's probably the issue.
I dont understand this. Even in locomotive engines, using the proper multi-grade generally reduces oil consumption vs the proper monograde m, 20w50 vs SAE50, for example.
The kawasaki engine im sure is just a regular flat tappet pushrod horizontal engine. How would monograde oil reduce consumption for the average user?
Posted on 8/16/25 at 1:05 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
The kawasaki engine im sure is just a regular flat tappet pushrod horizontal engine. How would monograde oil reduce consumption for the average user?
Air cooled vs liquid cooled would be my guess. Even a locomotive engine is liquid cooled, while most OPE engines aren't and operate at considerably higher temperatures. I'm sure the piston-to-wall clearance, among others, is much more generous seeing as the temperature deltas are much greater.
Posted on 8/16/25 at 1:10 pm to Clames
quote:
Last VOA on Kawasaki OPE oil had around 1400ppm zinc
Got a link? I haven't seen one that high in a LONG time.
The issue with the kawis has always been sheer. Which is why they rec straight weight.
While I've never done it...and not sure why I haven't, the 0w40 would be a great fit there too. Higher HTHS value. Higher film strength.
Posted on 8/16/25 at 8:33 pm to Clames
quote:
Air cooled vs liquid cooled would be my guess
Yea, that's certainly a big one. Being air cooled generally makes engines a good fit for 5w40 multi-fuel HDEO.
I saw shear mentioned - do they have gear driven overhead cams or something?
I'm not anti-monograde oil by any stretch, especially for air cooled engines running in louisiana in the summer. It still doesn't make sense to me that they would spec monograde oil with the expressed benefit of reduced oil consumption. Everything I've ever seen from other manufacturers states the opposite.
But if I were OP, I would definitely start with doing what the people who built the engine say to do.
Posted on 8/16/25 at 9:07 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
still doesn't make sense to me that they would spec monograde oil with the expressed benefit of reduced oil consumption. Ev
It does if the engine has larger tolerances.
There's no benefit to running multiweight oil in a hot climate other than a 1-2% reduction in FUEL consumption.
quote:
start with doing what the people who built the engine say to do.
This is correct.
Posted on 8/17/25 at 12:37 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I don't think it's as much the timing components as much as the temperature again. High temperature impact any oil's shear stability, monograde oils don't have to worry as much about VII's and higher operating temps. This is the current recommendation from Kawasaki:
They changed the wording about multigrade oils and increased oil consumption. I don't see any reason why someone running one of these engines during the deep South's mowing season would run anything but 20W-50 or straight SAE 40.
They changed the wording about multigrade oils and increased oil consumption. I don't see any reason why someone running one of these engines during the deep South's mowing season would run anything but 20W-50 or straight SAE 40.
Posted on 8/17/25 at 9:00 am to Clames
quote:
don't see any reason why someone running one of these engines during the deep South's mowing season would run anything but 20W-50 or straight SAE 40.
Well, I had to ride my kid on the lawnmower during the blizzard last year so that may be a consideration.
OP definitely should try it.
Posted on 8/17/25 at 9:16 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Well, I had to ride my kid on the lawnmower during the blizzard last year so that may be a consideration.
I considered running my heat gun to anything I would have needed to start, my generator is stored in an indoor storage room at least but I went nowhere except taking the dog for a few walks in the backyard.
Posted on 8/17/25 at 9:34 am to Clames
I keep a chicken coup light bulb under the engine on my generator for freezes.
I'm one of those simple folk who used 15w40 for EVERYTHING until I discovered 5w40. I definitely had harder starts and a little bit of oil consumption from my lawnmower (25hp briggs) with 15w40 and both are non-issues with 5w40.
I'm one of those simple folk who used 15w40 for EVERYTHING until I discovered 5w40. I definitely had harder starts and a little bit of oil consumption from my lawnmower (25hp briggs) with 15w40 and both are non-issues with 5w40.
Posted on 8/17/25 at 11:10 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I've done the same with Delvac 5W-40, think my generator and pressure washer still have it in their sumps and I used in my daily beater vehicles. Right now I have Valvoline R&P, mainly because I got it at a very low price and my lawnmowers have leftover M1/PP/Castrol 10W-30 for this season. I had way too many bottles of various engine oils and needed to consolidate and put to use... 
Posted on 8/17/25 at 4:39 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I'm one of those simple folk who used 15w40 for EVERYTHING until I discovered 5w40. I definitely had harder starts and a little bit of oil consumption from my lawnmower (25hp briggs) with 15w40 and both are non-issues with 5w40.
Above 40° your running 40 weight oil no matter which one of those you use.
Above 40° your running 40 weight oil no matter which one of those you use.
This post was edited on 8/17/25 at 4:41 pm
Posted on 8/18/25 at 8:35 am to rooster108bm
I agree, it doesn't really matter.
I'm no oil nerd like some people. The delta in viscosity narrows between the two as you get close to 212* but at 100* there is still a non-negligible difference between them. I can un-scientifically tell by how easy my mower is to start on 5w40 vs 15w40 in the summer. I have to give it some throttle to stay running the first 30 seconds or so with 15w40 and with 5w40 it easily stays running at low idle. Once it's warmed up it starts easily on both.
Based on my experience with my stuff, 5w40 is the general purpose go-to for everything but I go back and forth between that and 15w40 based on what I have laying around.
I'm no oil nerd like some people. The delta in viscosity narrows between the two as you get close to 212* but at 100* there is still a non-negligible difference between them. I can un-scientifically tell by how easy my mower is to start on 5w40 vs 15w40 in the summer. I have to give it some throttle to stay running the first 30 seconds or so with 15w40 and with 5w40 it easily stays running at low idle. Once it's warmed up it starts easily on both.
Based on my experience with my stuff, 5w40 is the general purpose go-to for everything but I go back and forth between that and 15w40 based on what I have laying around.
Posted on 8/18/25 at 8:50 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
I'm no oil nerd like some people.
I don't get too deep into it but one of the better oil nerd YouTubers has consistently produced data and results that running the proper viscosity for the engine and its operating environment is the most important aspect. You can get well into the weeds on additive packages, OCI's, filtration, etc. but the most important thing was viscosity and I think that's what the OP should look into first. I'm also in the camp that leans towards higher viscosity and less VII's which is why my F-150 has almost always had full synthetic 10W-30 year round.
Posted on 8/18/25 at 9:21 am to Clames
Wasn't calling you out, apologies for making it read that way. I meant those BITOG hard core lube nerds.
The bad thing about monograde oils is the lack of options and availability over parts counters. I would probably use SAE 40 or 50 in my generator in the summer time if it weren't such a PITA to find suitable stuff that I didn't need to buy by the 18 wheeler tank full. I also have lots of 15w40 or 5w40 laying around all the time, so in reality that's what I'll stick with regardless of what sounds cool or what the manual says. Some things you have to elect to just be like everybody else and act like you don't know any better.
Do the OPE dealers carry the Kawasaki 20w50 or SAE 40?
The bad thing about monograde oils is the lack of options and availability over parts counters. I would probably use SAE 40 or 50 in my generator in the summer time if it weren't such a PITA to find suitable stuff that I didn't need to buy by the 18 wheeler tank full. I also have lots of 15w40 or 5w40 laying around all the time, so in reality that's what I'll stick with regardless of what sounds cool or what the manual says. Some things you have to elect to just be like everybody else and act like you don't know any better.
Do the OPE dealers carry the Kawasaki 20w50 or SAE 40?
Posted on 8/18/25 at 10:45 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
BITOG hard core lube nerds.
everytime I go there I end up with more questions than answers
Posted on 8/18/25 at 12:15 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Some of the local commercial OPE dealers carry it and I know I've seen 5-gallon pails of straight 30W and 40W recently, can't remember if it was a Tractor Supply or Northern Tool tool though. That would still be a lot of oil to deal with in one container though.
Posted on 8/18/25 at 3:38 pm to X123F45
Thanks on my VR 1 question !!!
Popular
Back to top

0





