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re: 2020 Garden Thread
Posted on 3/31/20 at 5:21 pm to geauxcats10
Posted on 3/31/20 at 5:21 pm to geauxcats10
I had issues with my cucumbers as well.
Were they seeded straight into ground or transplant?
After a couple weeks of frustration, I came to conclusion that soil was too hard/dense (they like loose or loam type soil and mine had too much wood chunks and compost) and i think it made it tough for cucumber roots to penetrate. Also the soil did not hold water well, and drained too fast.
I gave them a boost with high nitrogen soluble fertilizer, that helped some. And then i added more peat moss around roots (PIA) to hopefully fix soil, and they look to be doing fine now.
I think cucumbers require more nitrogen than other veggies if you soil doesn’t have it they will be stunted.
Were they seeded straight into ground or transplant?
After a couple weeks of frustration, I came to conclusion that soil was too hard/dense (they like loose or loam type soil and mine had too much wood chunks and compost) and i think it made it tough for cucumber roots to penetrate. Also the soil did not hold water well, and drained too fast.
I gave them a boost with high nitrogen soluble fertilizer, that helped some. And then i added more peat moss around roots (PIA) to hopefully fix soil, and they look to be doing fine now.
I think cucumbers require more nitrogen than other veggies if you soil doesn’t have it they will be stunted.
This post was edited on 3/31/20 at 5:23 pm
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Posted on 3/31/20 at 5:22 pm to bluemoons
quote:
No. They should be dark green. Bright yellow suggests a nutrient deficiency of either nitrogen or iron. If the yellowing starts at the bottom and worked its way to the top, it's probably nitrogen. If the veins of the leaves are green, but the outer parts of the leaves are yellow, then it's probably an iron deficiency. It's also possible that the soil was a little hot/nitrogen heavy when you planted everything out and the plants got burned a bit.
Soil pH can also affect a plants ability to take up nutrients. So...
quote:
What did you use to make your soil?
Most bagged dirt is usually buffered somewhere around neutral (7). Peppers like a slightly acidic soil, but will tolerate an alkalinity up to about 8. Any higher than that and a lot of nutrients will become unavailable.
Posted on 3/31/20 at 6:31 pm to PillageUrVillage
Thanks guys! I used a combo of horse manure, peat moss and top soil and mixed it together
Posted on 3/31/20 at 6:54 pm to geauxcats10
I would say alkalinity probably isn’t your issue. Follow the link bluemoons posted and try to figure out what’s deficient.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 5:17 pm to PillageUrVillage
Should I being spraying some sort of insecticide/pesticide on my raised bed? Looks like I have something eating my basil and then snail like trails on the leaves of my tomato plants.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 6:55 pm to bluemoons
quote:
Bluemoons
Not sure if youre in south la but You have any luck w squash?
I can get em big and full of flowers and then those damn borer worms get me.
Had read about aluminum foil and panty hose but cant get the nerve to try it again. Broke my heart!!
This post was edited on 4/1/20 at 7:01 pm
Posted on 4/1/20 at 7:33 pm to sloopy
quote:
Should I being spraying some sort of insecticide/pesticide on my raised bed? Looks like I have something eating my basil and then snail like trails on the leaves of my tomato plants.
May be caterpillars. If that’s the case, spray your plants down with Thuricide once or twice a week. It’s not a contact killer, they have to ingest it for it to work. So, caterpillars will still eat on your plants a little before they die. But trust me when I say it is far more effective at controlling caterpillars than any sort of contact killer.
Aside from caterpillars, I have had great success controlling just about every other pest in my garden using neem oil, pyrethrin, and castile soap. I tank mix all 3 and spray once a week. The pyrethrin doesn’t have a very long residual, so it’s safer for beneficial bugs. Biggest concern is making sure not to kill bees. So I spray either early in the morning or late in the afternoon when they aren’t active. If I’m having a bad enough infestation, I’ll spray Bonide Eight (Permethrin). Has a much longer residual. But that’s a last resort.
But to be honest, I think most of my success is due to treating my surrounding lawn heavily with insecticides.
Posted on 4/1/20 at 10:16 pm to DomincDecoco
It’s funny you asked that because I actually came to post that I picked my first zucchini yesterday.
I’m in St. Tammany. I’ve only been gardening for a couple of years and I’m by no means an expert so take it for what it’s worth, but believe it or not I actually did have success with the borers last spring. The first two seasons I tried to grow squash, the borers killed my plants. I almost gave up on growing them, but then i saw a video on YouTube about a guy having borer success with consistent applications of sevin dust to the actual vine of the plant. So, I bought a duster with a narrow plastic spout (kinda like a turkey baster) and I used that to apply sevin dust to the vines themselves. I keep it away from the flowers and the leaves. . I don’t have any set interval, but pretty much just do it as often as needed to keep some on there. I’d say once every week/10 days or after it rains.
I also learned what the wasp eggs look like and I’ll pick them off the plants if I ever happen to see them. I haven’t start applying sevin yet this year mainly because I haven’t seen a wasp yet, but my squash and zucchini plants are all starting to produce now so I’ll probably start applying it in the next week or so.
I’m not sure how you feel about chemicals in your garden and I definitely get it. I try to be as organic as possible, but I love squash and zucchini, so When it came down to measured applications of sevin or no squash, I chose squash. I use Bonide Eight elsewhere in my garden if any infestation gets bad enough that neem oil can’t handle it.
I’ve also heard there are some resistant varieties, but I grow 2 straight neck squash plants and 2 tiger zucchini plants. From experience, neither are borer resistant
I’m in St. Tammany. I’ve only been gardening for a couple of years and I’m by no means an expert so take it for what it’s worth, but believe it or not I actually did have success with the borers last spring. The first two seasons I tried to grow squash, the borers killed my plants. I almost gave up on growing them, but then i saw a video on YouTube about a guy having borer success with consistent applications of sevin dust to the actual vine of the plant. So, I bought a duster with a narrow plastic spout (kinda like a turkey baster) and I used that to apply sevin dust to the vines themselves. I keep it away from the flowers and the leaves. . I don’t have any set interval, but pretty much just do it as often as needed to keep some on there. I’d say once every week/10 days or after it rains.
I also learned what the wasp eggs look like and I’ll pick them off the plants if I ever happen to see them. I haven’t start applying sevin yet this year mainly because I haven’t seen a wasp yet, but my squash and zucchini plants are all starting to produce now so I’ll probably start applying it in the next week or so.
I’m not sure how you feel about chemicals in your garden and I definitely get it. I try to be as organic as possible, but I love squash and zucchini, so When it came down to measured applications of sevin or no squash, I chose squash. I use Bonide Eight elsewhere in my garden if any infestation gets bad enough that neem oil can’t handle it.
I’ve also heard there are some resistant varieties, but I grow 2 straight neck squash plants and 2 tiger zucchini plants. From experience, neither are borer resistant
Posted on 4/2/20 at 10:22 am to bluemoons
quote:
I’m in St. Tammany. I’ve only been gardening for a couple of years and I’m by no means an expert so take it for what it’s worth, but believe it or not I actually did have success with the borers last spring.
Im in St Tammany too...dont sell yourself short, If you can grow and harvest zuke and squash your doin damn good brotha!
Thanks for the tip on Sevin, may give it a go in a milk crate planter
Posted on 4/2/20 at 10:23 am to PillageUrVillage
quote:
But to be honest, I think most of my success is due to treating my surrounding lawn heavily with insecticides.
agree...when the cleared the lot behind me, my insect issues went way down.
Putting up bleubird nest boxes was another win
Posted on 4/2/20 at 1:25 pm to bluemoons
quote:
I also learned what the wasp eggs look like and I’ll pick them off the plants if I ever happen to see them. I haven’t start applying sevin yet this year mainly because I haven’t seen a wasp yet, but my squash and zucchini plants are all starting to produce now so I’ll probably start applying it in the next week or so.
I thought wasps were good predators of bad insects, and I thought their eggs are laid in the nests. Are these different wasps?
Posted on 4/2/20 at 1:42 pm to guedeaux
Yes. The ones I'm referring to are vine borer wasps (they're actually moths so forgive my misnomer) and look like this:
They lay eggs on squash and zucchini plants that look like this:
The eggs hatch into a larvae/grub that bores into the plant vine and eats the plant from the inside out. They're so bad in south Louisiana that a lot of folks don't even grow squash and zucchini.
They lay eggs on squash and zucchini plants that look like this:
The eggs hatch into a larvae/grub that bores into the plant vine and eats the plant from the inside out. They're so bad in south Louisiana that a lot of folks don't even grow squash and zucchini.
Posted on 4/2/20 at 1:42 pm to DomincDecoco
quote:
DomincDecoco
Posted on 4/2/20 at 6:19 pm to bluemoons
Those bastards are one of the main reasons why I haven’t even tried to grow squash. My father in law used to always try to grow some and they got him every year. He’d put so many chemicals down to try to prevent it that I don’t think his squash would be safe to eat!
Still, he’d get the vine borers eventually.
ETA: Man, autocorrect has been kicking my arse lately.
Still, he’d get the vine borers eventually.
ETA: Man, autocorrect has been kicking my arse lately.
This post was edited on 4/2/20 at 6:20 pm
Posted on 4/2/20 at 7:17 pm to PillageUrVillage
Help me out with my tomatoes. They look like crap and seem to be slowly dying bottom to top. My others look fine.
Posted on 4/2/20 at 8:19 pm to bluemoons
quote:
Yes. The ones I'm referring to are vine borer wasps (they're actually moths so forgive my misnomer) and look like this:
Gotcha. Yeah, frick those frickers right in their frickholes.
Posted on 4/3/20 at 7:12 am to BallsEleven
Looks like either nitrogen or iron deficiency.
Posted on 4/3/20 at 10:31 am to PillageUrVillage
Question for the gurus.
I have a raised bed. Things are growing well so far but I noticed yesterday that there are a lot of ants in there. Coincidentally after an addition of fertilizer. What is safe to use to get rid of these things, or better yet, are they a danger to what I have planted.
Cucumbers
Tomatoes
Peppers
Multiple varieties of each.
TIA
I have a raised bed. Things are growing well so far but I noticed yesterday that there are a lot of ants in there. Coincidentally after an addition of fertilizer. What is safe to use to get rid of these things, or better yet, are they a danger to what I have planted.
Cucumbers
Tomatoes
Peppers
Multiple varieties of each.
TIA
Posted on 4/3/20 at 3:12 pm to PillageUrVillage
Planted some Lima beans, pinto beans, purple hull peas, and sweet corn this morning with the Hoss Planter. Transplanted lettuce coming along well. Raised bed of soft neck garlic coming along nicely. Still have four 50’ rows left to plant, have tomato and pepper transplants to put out and direct seed some okra. I’m in Arkansas so a little behind y’all, normally I don’t plant anything until after April 15th but looks like we won’t have anymore frost. The rain has been killing us here.
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