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re: PC Discussion - Gaming, Performance and Enthusiasts
Posted on 11/3/14 at 7:09 am to Mr Gardoki
Posted on 11/3/14 at 7:09 am to Mr Gardoki
Oh you can, you can love it long time.
And yeah it's $200 I believe.
And yeah it's $200 I believe.
Posted on 11/3/14 at 5:30 pm to UltimateHog
My desk has become cluttered with too much shite.
Who wants a Razer naga for a decent price or a mech keyboard?
Who wants a Razer naga for a decent price or a mech keyboard?
Posted on 11/4/14 at 4:52 am to bluebarracuda
I have the LoL naga hex.
What keyboard is it I have a cheap shitty one, almost bought a Razer cheaper one the other day actually.
What keyboard is it I have a cheap shitty one, almost bought a Razer cheaper one the other day actually.
This post was edited on 11/4/14 at 6:41 am
Posted on 11/4/14 at 8:19 am to UltimateHog
KBC poker 2. Looking like I'm selling it on reddit though
Posted on 11/4/14 at 8:24 am to bluebarracuda
Yeah that's fine, I have to have a number pad.
Posted on 11/4/14 at 8:42 am to ILikeLSUToo
Did you ever find any suggestions for a cheaper router?
Posted on 11/4/14 at 1:38 pm to Mr Gardoki
quote:
Did you ever find any suggestions for a cheaper router?
Yeah, but you never gave me a definitive budget.
This is based on SmallNetBuilder.com rankings in wireless throughput and range.
First choice would be the ASUS N66U N900, but it's $130:
N66U
Second choice is Netgear R6100 AC1200 for $98.99
Netgear R6100
Third choice is the ASUS N56U (N600 router) for $85
N56U
Last choice is a no-frills N450 single router that tested among the highest in wireless throughput at high attenuation (i.e. signal loss due to RF interference, distance, and walls). $56.99, no USB ports, no 5GHz band, and only 10/100 ethernet like your current router. It's basically the equivalent of taking your current router and making the range/signal stronger, so it may be just what you're looking for.
Netgear WNR2500
Below that price point, you'll just be switching from one weak router to another.
Posted on 11/4/14 at 2:06 pm to ILikeLSUToo
That last one actually sounds like what I am looking for. What are the advantages of dual band?
Posted on 11/4/14 at 2:30 pm to Mr Gardoki
If you have any devices that can use the 5GHz band, it would put them off the 2.4GHz band and cut down on interference. PS4 is not dual-band (but you said it's hard wired anyway), but the Wii U is I believe. And depending on what generation of iPads and phones you have, those may be dual band as well.
The drawback is that without extra amplification, the 5GHz band has about half the range of 2.4GHz, so you wouldn't want your far-away devices to use it (although it shouldn't be a problem in the dual-band routers i linked above). Plus, I assume the Vita is not dual band anyway. And it probably only has one spatial stream like most mobile phones, so your downlink throughput on the 2.4ghz band is probably going to cap out at 75mbps, and that's theoretically. Realistically, it'll be lower. But locally you probably don't need more than 10-15mbps up/down for smooth streaming, maybe even less than that for upload.
The drawback is that without extra amplification, the 5GHz band has about half the range of 2.4GHz, so you wouldn't want your far-away devices to use it (although it shouldn't be a problem in the dual-band routers i linked above). Plus, I assume the Vita is not dual band anyway. And it probably only has one spatial stream like most mobile phones, so your downlink throughput on the 2.4ghz band is probably going to cap out at 75mbps, and that's theoretically. Realistically, it'll be lower. But locally you probably don't need more than 10-15mbps up/down for smooth streaming, maybe even less than that for upload.
Posted on 11/4/14 at 2:33 pm to ILikeLSUToo
that cap doesn't concern me, I only get 30 down anyway. I'll have to look and see what accepts dual band that I use. For all these devices, usually only 1 or 2 are on at a time.
Posted on 11/4/14 at 2:35 pm to ILikeLSUToo
Isn't AC supposed to have range? My phone has had wireless AC since last year and my tablet too, and if I go downstairs I get maybe 1 bar of wifi, switch back to N on the 2.4Ghz band and full bars.
Doesn't really matter on my phone or tablet whether I use AC or not, but still.
Doesn't really matter on my phone or tablet whether I use AC or not, but still.
Posted on 11/4/14 at 2:38 pm to UltimateHog
I wish I could use just the n signal and ditch the b/g/n mixed. Damn 3ds only uses b/g.
Posted on 11/4/14 at 2:57 pm to UltimateHog
quote:
Isn't AC supposed to have range?
Nope, that's a myth that I didn't know people believed until the tech board was born. AC standard increases throughput per spatial stream, but it has nothing to do with range or how the router handles attenuation. 802.11AC speeds are only possible on the 5GHz band, which as I said does not have the range of 2.4GHz. The AC standard does include beamforming, which turns omnidirectional signals into directional based on the location of a particular AC client. Sounds good in theory, but it isn't a miracle worker in the sense that a device barely within range will suddenly work like it's in the same room as the router. Beamforming doesn't really extend range. It's just a smarter way of network prioritization and squeezing out another few mbps throughput at any given range. Most likely, the farther away you are, the less benefit you'll get from beamforming anyway.
A lot of the higher end routers have more powerful CPUs for simultaneous connections, faster network prioritization, and more effective beam-forming in combination with the ability to amplify the power on the antennae. That's why you shouldn't go out and buy just any cheap router that has "AC" on the box expecting improved signals, in the same way you wouldn't buy a 4K monitor expecting glorious high-fidelity gaming without considering whether your GPU is capable.
Posted on 11/5/14 at 10:22 am to ILikeLSUToo
Yeah, which is fine. Still love my AC68 either way.
Posted on 11/5/14 at 11:25 am to UltimateHog
I have the AC68 as well, and it's great.
Posted on 11/5/14 at 1:04 pm to VABuckeye
First of the year I will be looking at doing a HTPC. Other option is to have Control 4 installed. Hadn't decided yet.
Posted on 11/5/14 at 1:46 pm to chattvol
Need some pointers...
I just got my new case, an Enthoo Luxe, and it was simply meant to give me more room to add another GPU. Now that I have it I have a real itch to just build a whole new system (kinda figured this was gonna do this to me).
Right now I have an all AMD system with an 8350, but I'm now going to migrate all of that into another system at some point later. This will be my first Intel build in like 7 years. The only thing I'm bringing over from my AMD rig is the SSD and HDD. The SSD just has my OS (Windows 7) and my Adobe Suite, the HDD has everything else. Am I looking at running into problems if I just plug them in and go, or should I do a fresh format/install? Basically, is there anything I should/need to do besides just plugging them in and making sure the BIOS finds them and have the right boot options?
TIA
I just got my new case, an Enthoo Luxe, and it was simply meant to give me more room to add another GPU. Now that I have it I have a real itch to just build a whole new system (kinda figured this was gonna do this to me).
Right now I have an all AMD system with an 8350, but I'm now going to migrate all of that into another system at some point later. This will be my first Intel build in like 7 years. The only thing I'm bringing over from my AMD rig is the SSD and HDD. The SSD just has my OS (Windows 7) and my Adobe Suite, the HDD has everything else. Am I looking at running into problems if I just plug them in and go, or should I do a fresh format/install? Basically, is there anything I should/need to do besides just plugging them in and making sure the BIOS finds them and have the right boot options?
TIA
Posted on 11/5/14 at 2:37 pm to BoogerNuts
I always do a complete reinstall when I switch from one motherboard to another, but making the migration is doable. You will want to uninstall every driver and utility associated with any part you aren't moving over to the new system -- GPU drivers, anything related to AMD chipsets, USB 3.0, motherboard utilities, ethernet, audio, wifi, etc. You don't want any of that shite lingering and wasting resources, or worse, conflicting and causing problems with the drivers you'll actually need for the new motherboard.
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