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The Work Of A Master, Warren Leruth

Posted on 4/15/15 at 6:56 pm
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 6:56 pm
Warren Leruth, deceased, for years ruled the New Orleans scene in the restaurant world. His restaurant, Le Ruth‘s in Gretna, LA across the river from the French Quarter, for years was the only Five Star restaurant west of the Mississippi. To his credit we have Oyster & Artichoke Soup, Seven Seas Green Goddess Salad Dressing and Popeye's Red Beans and Rice.

MenuMasters Hall of Fame
Warren Leruth

During a 50-year foodservice career Warren Leruth has done many things. Indeed, he has developed products, fostered innovation, operated a restaurant, written cookbooks, consulted for food organizations and been a taste specialist. But that is not all he's done; he also has given generously to charity and come to the aid of friends.

Now he's been tapped by Nation's Restaurant News as the first inductee into the MenuMasters Hall of Fame. "I love R&D and always have," Leruth says. "It's creative and involves a lot of calculations and numbers, which I enjoy."

Throughout his varied career the 69-year-old Leruth has been first and foremost a food product developer. "Research is a much calmer field than running a restaurant," he says, recalling his years as owner-operator of the famed LeRuth's Restaurant in Gretna on New Orleans' West Bank. "With R&D you have your hand in food all the time but at a different level."

The new Hall of Famer continues to set a brisk pace through life. From his well-equipped home kitchen in Pass Christian, Miss., he develops and consults on products for Outback Steakhouse, Boston Chicken, Brinker International, Burger King and many other restaurant chains.

Always outspoken, Leruth says: "One of the toughest challenges in foodservice today is the American hamburger. There's light years of work to be done with the quality and grind of meat and the overall fat."

Leruth's philosophy is that "whatever you eat must have a happy ending. You don't want a heavy or greasy after-taste. More meat doesn’t make a better burger."

Doing it better has been at the top of Leruth's foodservice agenda since he first started in the business as an apprentice chef in the 1940's at Solari's, a renowned New Orleans grocery/charcuterie/patisserie. Here he learned most of his baking skills.

Later at the New Orleans Country Club, pastry chef Jacques Harte would become a mentor. "He was a great gentleman who knew all the fancy pastries and was tremendous with pies," Leruth recalls.

From Solari's he moved on to become a saucier at Galatoire's in New Orleans. Other stops included the Balinese Room in Galveston, Texas; Diamond Jim Moran's and the Monteleone Hotel in New Orleans' French Quarter; and the Shamrock Hotel in Houston.

After those stints Leruth joined the National Guard and entered the Army's baking, cooking, and supervisory schools. In 1952 he was drafted into the Korean War and served as personal chef to Gen. Bruce C. Clark. During his tour of duty he also cooked for then-Vice President Richard Nixon, Cardinal Spellman of New York and Korean President Synghman Rhee.

Back home, Leruth worked in the research kitchens of Proctor & Gamble; Chas. Dennery & Co., a well-known Deep South bakery; and the Texas firm of Anderson-Clayton. While at Anderson-Clayton, he developed something that's taken for granted today -- a pourable, non-separating dressing, which eventually became the Seven Seas line of salad dressings.

Today he looks back on that breakthrough as one of his top career accomplishments. He also credits Carter Harrer, Anderson-Clayton's director of R&D, for teaching him how to formulate recipes.

In 1963 Leruth became the youngest member of the national chef fraternity, the Order of the Golden Toque. Three years later he opened LeRuth's Restaurant. With little advertising or fanfare the place soon was packed night after night. For five consecutive years LeRuth's was honored with the prestigious Travel/Holiday Award.

His dream realized, Leruth sold the restaurant to his sons in 1982 and retired. "But I got bored," he says. He was spurred by a remarkable initiative, and the projects quickly mounted up. He started the LeRuth Extract Co., making and marketing his Vanilla Bean Marinade and pure vanilla extract. And as if that weren't enough, he developed Chelsey's Frozen Custard, a soft ice-cream emporium.

He has written two cookbooks and today continues his work with the Chefs' Charity for Children, a foundation he established two decades ago to benefit the St. Michael's Special School. The charity has raised more than $1.2 million, and Leruth says, "I'm very proud of the New Orleans chefs who contribute their time and products each year to our fund-raising event.

Anthony Athanas, the famed Boston restaurateur and owner of Anthony's Pier 4 restaurant, recalls a time when Leruth was there for him. In 1978, when a blizzard sank the antique riverboat that Athanas had anchored alongside Pier 4 as a cocktail lounge, Leruth was quick to help. Although Athanas never accepted the generous offer of money, the Boston restaurateur remembers the gesture every time he talks to Leruth.

Making the journey with Leruth for 43 years has been his wife, the former Marie Rizzuto, a New Orleans native, like her husband. Leruth says she's the cook in the family, and he still enjoys the traditional New Orleans food that he grew up on. "You know, red beans and rice on Mondays," he says, chuckling.

The birth of their children is the first thing that comes to Leruth's mind when he is asked to review his life and career. Their son, 41-year-old Larry Leruth, is chief meat inspector for Outback Steakhouse and a part-time associate in Leruth's consulting operation, LeRuths' & Associates. Another son, Lee Rene, committed suicide at 29, a blow that still resonates in Leruth's mind. "That's so painful," he says. "You never get over it."

On the brighter side, Lee Rene's marriage produced two children. And with Larry's child, the Leruth's now have three grandchildren.

"Ahh," he says, looking back, "I wish I were starting all over again with all this knowledge."

If that were the case, who knows how many other different ideas, products, and ventures would emerge from his creative mind?
This post was edited on 4/15/15 at 7:08 pm
Posted by Kafka
I am the moral conscience of TD
Member since Jul 2007
141386 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 7:02 pm to
you have any kind of a link?

when did LeRuth's close? I never went there, but I know of it through a used copy of The New Orleans Underground Gourmet from the mid '70s that I got ahold of about 10 years later (had it closed by then?). LeRuth's and Mosca's were the only places it gave 4 stars.
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 7:06 pm to
quote:

you have any kind of a link?
Sorry, I don't. This is an article I saved some time ago.

I'll see what I can find though.

Edit: This is apparently written by the guy behind nolacuisine.com, one of my favorite blogs about Louisiana food. He also lists American Gourmand, New Orleans Cuisine and Dano's Book Report as his blogs.

Additional information

NOLA.com Obit
This post was edited on 4/15/15 at 8:46 pm
Posted by Jones
Member since Oct 2005
90358 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 7:52 pm to
nice article


gretna
Posted by glassman
Next to the beer taps at Finn's
Member since Oct 2008
116072 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 8:00 pm to
Warren LeRuth is the most overlooked person in NOLA culinary history. He was the best chef the city had seen until the early 90's. Went with my grand parents many times. The first taste of artichoke oyster soup is one of my favorite food memories.
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47332 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 8:01 pm to
I wish Dano would do some updates. Always loved his blog and I check it periodically.
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 8:51 pm to
I kind of have mixed feelings about Warren LeRuth. I greatly admire his scientific approach to food, and I know he was an awesome talent and I love the dishes he created, but the type of food he cooked at his restaurant was pretty inaccessible to me.

What I mean is, his stuff is way too fancy for me. I've heard he could be a jackass to work for, but sometimes underlings have to suffer under genius.
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 8:56 pm to
quote:

Warren LeRuth is the most overlooked person in NOLA culinary history. He was the best chef the city had seen until the early 90's.
I agree with this.
Posted by Kafka
I am the moral conscience of TD
Member since Jul 2007
141386 posts
Posted on 4/15/15 at 9:00 pm to
quote:

I wish Dano would do some updates
Book 'em Dano
Posted by hallcyon
Member since Mar 2018
1 post
Posted on 3/30/18 at 11:05 pm to
Stadium Rat,you once said you had a pdf of a LeRuth Cookbook. Have you posted the contents anywhere? Any chance of getting it somehow?
This post was edited on 3/31/18 at 5:20 am
Posted by Lambdatiger1989
NOLA
Member since Jan 2012
2288 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 5:55 am to
I know a couple of guys that he taught and they are geniuses in their approach to food. Wish I could have met him.
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 9:18 am to
I don't remember having a PDF unless I made one when I checked "Front Door, Back Door" out of the library. (Jefferson Parish) I don't see it on this computer, but I'll check my older one.
Posted by NOLATiger71
New Orleans
Member since Dec 2017
1701 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 9:31 am to
I met him once while we were doing a pastry taste test for a local coffee shop 20 years ago. Very nice guy. I came to admire him after our time working together and learning more about him especially when he opened Chelseys Frozen Custard and his Melpomene vanilla flavor.

To my understanding of if I remember correctly when Warren was at Copeland’s he oversaw the guys who are now the local tastebuds guys that worked at Copeland’s. They trained or worked under Warren if the story goes. Then the tastebuds left Copeland’s to form their group that opened Semolina’s, Zea’s and now the closed but awesome Mizado restaurant.

Stadium rat, how many books has Warren written? I think only two and I have been trying to get my hands on both. I look from time to time to purchase copies.
Posted by OTIS2
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
50066 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 9:37 am to
Posted by NOLATiger71
New Orleans
Member since Dec 2017
1701 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 9:41 am to
Stadium Rat, thanks for posting this article. In the article he discusses hamburgers and how they can be improved. Then the post on TD Au Cheval hamburgers being the best in the country. I did a little research last night on Au Cheval hamburger recipe and found out it’s about the fat they use and the content used in their recipe. Very interesting to test your Warren LeRuth post that mentioned exactly what I read last night about Au Cheval hamburgers.
Posted by doublecutter
Hear & Their
Member since Oct 2003
6567 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 12:05 pm to
Back in the mid '80s, I used to go duck hunting and fishing with a bunch of guys down in Venice. Larry LeRuth, Warren's son was part of that group. He didn't cook at the camp often, but when he did, he could take a couple of ducks, a bag of rice, and an assortment of spices that were hanging around in the camp kitchen, and he would work some cooking magic with it.
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 1:32 pm to
quote:

Stadium rat, how many books has Warren written? I think only two and I have been trying to get my hands on both. I look from time to time to purchase copies.
Well, there's "Front Door, Back Door", which it sort of a pamphlet format and has 2 different kinds of recipes in it. The "Front Door" recipes are restaurant dishes. The "Back Door" recipes are recipes eaten by the staff, like red beans and rice. It's one of those books that's like 2 in 1 - the front appears normal, but when you get 1/2 way through, you have to flip it over and start reading from the back for the rest of the recipes. I just saw a copy available on Amazon for $150. Jefferson Parish library has a non-circulating copy available. I would not spend $150 for it.

Leruth also put out a 20th anniversary cookbook which measures only about 4 x 3 inches. I have this one and it has about 50 or 60 restaurant recipes.

He has a couple of recipes in one of the "Great Chefs of New Orleans" books and many more in the "New Orleans Chef's Cookbook" which is a selection of various recipes that chefs, including Leruth, made for the Chef's Charity for the Children of St Michael's School.

There are also the yearly Chef's Charity cookbooks that may yield some more, but my guess is all of them were probably included in the compilation.
Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 1:36 pm to
Here are the Leruth's recipes I have in my database:


Avocado Oliva LeRuth

Ingredients
1 Tbs Fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs Vermouth
2 large Avocados, halved
2 Tbs Dijon mustard
2 large Cans baby artichoke hearts
Salt and white pepper
1/2 cup Oil
2 Tbs Parsley, chopped
1 Tbs Vinegar

Procedure
1. Fill cavities with baby artichoke hearts. Combine the remaining ingredients, leaving the parsley for decoration. Pour the sauce over the arichoke hearts. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Servings: 4

Source: LeRuth’s, N.O.LA



Coconut Mousse from LeRuth’s 20th Anniversary Cookbook

Summer is here. Time for people to start thinking tropical. Whenever I think of the tropics, I think of coconut. Here is a recipe from my favorite lost restaurant, LeRuth’s. It is a hit any time of the year

Ingredients
14oz sweetened Condensed Milk
1 cup Coco Lopez
5 Egg Yolks
1 Tbs Plain Gelatin
1 1/4 cups Water
3 Tbs Grand Marnier
2 cups Heavy Cream
1 cup Angel Coconut, shredded (3 1/2 0z)
1/2 tsp LeRuth’s Vanilla Bean Marinade. Use a real vanilla extract.

Procedure
1. Bring sweetened condensed milk, water and Coco Lopez to a boil. Whip egg yolks, till light and yellow. Pour hot milk mixture over beaten eggs a little at a time, stir well. Dissolve gelatin inGrand Marnier and stir into milk mixture and eggs. Cool unitl it begins to thicken to a soft custard consistency. Beat heavy cream and fold into chilled milk, egg, and gelatin mixture. Fold in Angel coconut. Chill for 3 hours before serving

Servings: 6



LeRuth’s Cheese Cake

Here is the recipe from LeRuth’s restaurant. Chef Warren made his own Vanilla Bean Marinade. It was the best vanilla you could buy. It is still available under the Ronald Reginald’s label

Ingredients
Graham Cracker Crumbs
Butter to grease pan
2 cups Sugar
¼ cup Flour
3 lbs Cream Cheese at room temperature
6 Eggs
2 Egg Yolks
1 tsp LeRuth’s Vanilla Bean Marinade (Now under the Ronald Reginald’s Label)
1 grated Lemon Rind
1 grated Orange Rind
¼ cup Half and Half Cream

Procedure
1. Preheat oven to 475 degrees. Grease Springform pan generously with butter and line with Graham cracker crumbs. Sift flour and sugar into mixing bowl. With mixer running, add softened chunks of cheese. When all the cheese is mixed into sugar, begin to add eggs slowly. Scrape bowl often to keep batter smooth. Then add orange, lemon, vanilla and half and half cream.

2. Bake in 1 inch of water at 475 degrees for 15 minutes. Then reduce oven to 225 degrees for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Depan when cold and chill well before serving. Cheese cake is always greater when served with fresh raspberries, strawberries or blueberries.



LeRuth’s Red Beans And Rice

My love for cooking goes back to when I was young. When I would sit down to each lunch at home, I would always read a cookbook. Of course, one of my favorites was LeRuth’s Front Door/Back Door Cookbook. The book has the Front Door recipes in the front. When you flipped the book over, the Back Door recipes would start. Of course, red beans were never served to LeRuth’s customers but it was often served to the staff. Here is the recipe

Ingredients
1 lb dry Red Beans
3 quarts Cold Water
4 chopped Onions
4 toes Garlic
Salt and Pepper
1 lb Ham Trimmings with skin on
2 lbs Smoked Sausage, cut into 6 inch lenght

Procedure
1. Pick over beans and wash thoroughlt. Soak overnight. In order to have a creamy sauce, it is necessary to boil beans with onion ham and garlic. Over strong heat. using a heavy pot, boil. Check frequently. Use a rather tall pot so beans won’t splash out while boiling. Some of the beans will break. When beans are tender, add sausage. Continue to cook for 30 minutes. Add a little more water as necessary. Adjust seasoning. Serve over steamed rice that was seasoned with 1 or 2 Bay Leaves.

Author: Tommy Centola – Creole Cajun Chef
Source: Front Door/Back Door Cookbook



Leruth's Crabmeat St. Francis

This was one of the best dishes created by the late Chef Warren LeRuth at his spectacular restaurant. He told me once that the thing he missed most about not having LeRuth's open anymore was that he couldn't grab one of these at moment's notice. Crabmeat St. Francis is also special in that it's one of the few regular menu items from LeRuth's for which the chef ever published the recipe. At that, it only came out a few years ago, in the little cookbook they do every year at the Chef's Charity for Children. (Another reason to go!) I find this recipe fascinating in that it uses ingredients and techniques generally left behind by latter-day gourmet chefs. Despite that, this is a dish that knows few peers.

-- Tom Fitzmorris, New Orleans food critic, radio host, and author.

Ingredients
Sauce ingredients
1/8 cup margarine
2 green onions, sliced
1/2 medium onion, coarsely chopped
2 inner celery ribs, bottom 2 inches only, coarsely chopped
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp thyme leaves ( dried)
1/4 tsp celery seed
1/4 tsp white pepper
1 pinch cayenne
3/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp Accent seasoning ( so, if you are anti-Accent, just omit it!)
1/2 cup evaporated milk
3 Tbs flour
Topping
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
3 Tbs grated parmesan cheese
1/2 tsp hot paprika
Plus
1 lb lump crabmeat
1/4 cup margarine, melted

Procedure
1. Heat the margarine in a saucepan until it bubbles. Add all the sauce ingredients except the milk and flour, and sauté until the vegetables are well browned and sticking a little bit to the pan. Remove from heat and set aside for 15 minutes.

2. After 15 minutes, add the evaporated milk and 3/4 cup of water to the saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring lightly.

3. While the boil is coming up, whisk the flour into 3 oz. of water. After the pan comes to a boil, stir the flour-water mixture slowly into the other ingredients. Simmer for three minutes, until the sauce is thick.

4. Spoon the sauce into a pan and refrigerate overnight.

5. To complete the dish, preheat the oven to 425 F degrees. Mix the bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese, and paprika together.

6. Put about 3 oz. crabmeat into a scallop shell or small au gratin dish. Top with 5 oz. of the chilled sauce, then sprinkle with the bread crumb mixture.

7. Bake at 425 F degrees until the crumbs brown and the sides of the dish begin to bubble--20-25 minutes.

8. Remove from the oven and top each with 1 teaspoon melted margarine.

9. Serve very hot.

Tips
Note: Time does not include overnight chill time, so plan ahead.



Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 1:37 pm to
Leruth's Green Goddess Dressing

The best restaurants in New Orleans, restaurant reviews by Tom Fitzmorris in The New Orleans Menu.

Warren Leruth was regarded by gourmets as probably the greatest chef to work in New Orleans in the last half of the 1900s. Before and after he ran his magnificent restaurant in Gretna, he was a consultant to many food companies, and developed countless recipes for commercial products. One of those was the Green Goddess dressing for Seven Seas. Here's the version of that he made in his restaurant.

Ingredients
5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
3 green onions -- tender green parts only
2 large cloves garlic chopped
2 anchovies
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 cup mayonnaise -- (preferably homemade)
1 cup sour cream

Procedure
1. Put the parsley, green onions, garlic, anchovies, salt and pepper into a food processor and chop into a puree, stopping to scrape down the side of the processor bowl and top. Add two tablespoons of water and process until the mixture is nearly smooth.

2. Scrape the puree into a non-metallic bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Blend with a whisk until uniform in texture. Whisk in a little bit of water if needed to bring the sauce to a very thick but pourable texture. Refrigerate.

3. Makes two cups.

Author: Tom Fitzmorris
Source: New Orleans Menu
Web Page: LINK



Leruth's Kings Cake

Ingredients
2 1/2 oz Dry yeast
1/2 lb Softened butter
3 tsp Sugar
1/2 cup Lowfat milk, scalded
1/2 cup Southern Comfort
1/2 Tbs Salt
3 Extra large eggs
3 pint Flour
1 Lemon, grated rind only
2 tsp Pure Vanilla extract
1 Plastic baby or red kidney bean
1/4 cup Water
1 Egg
1/4 cup Boiling water
1 Tbs Corn Syrup
2 1/2 cup Powdered Sugar
1 1/2 cup Sugar, divided into 3 parts
3/4 oz Southern Comfort Food coloring: Green, gold, red & blue, (to make purple)

Procedure
1. Dissolve the yeast in 1/2 C. of hot (not warm) lowfat milk with 3 teaspoon sugar in a large mixing bowl. Let rest 5 mins. Add in butter, 1/2 C. Southern Comfort, Large eggs, flour, lemon rind, and vanilla and mix 10-12 min with electric mixer on low speed till blended. This is a straight dough procedure. Allow the dough to rest for 15 min. Chill the dough for 4 hrs.

2. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Return the dough to room temperature. Divide the dough into 3 even pcs. Roll each section into strands of the same length and do a 3-way braid, bringing the ends together to create an oval.

3. hot place for 1 hour.

4. Mix together 1/4 C water and 1 egg and brush the mix on the dough. Bake on a greased pan 20-25 min. Cold on a rack.

5. To make icing, bring water and corn syrup to a boil, add in the powdered sugar. Stir till all sugar is dissolved. Brush this on top of the cooled cake.

6. Divide 3/4 ounce. of Southern Comfort into 3 equal parts. Add in one of each of the three food colors (green, gold, purple). Stir each into three separate 1/2 C. of sugar. Stir till color is distributed well into the sugar.

7. Sprinkle this over the icing in alternating bands.

Source: Global Cookbook



LeRuth's Red Shrimp Rémoulade

Spicy paprika and whole-grain mustard sauce coats plump shrimp in this classic New Orleans red rémoulade from the late chef Warren Leruth. This recipe first appeared in our April 2014 issue with Keith Pandolfi's story Special Sauce.

Ingredients
¾ cup Creole mustard
2 Tbs paprika
1 tsp sugar
Kosher salt, to taste
1 cup cottonseed, corn, or canola oil
2 lb medium cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails removed
2 Tbs minced parsley, plus more
2 inner stalks celery, minced
½ small yellow onion, minced
Tabasco hot sauce, to taste
½ head red leaf lettuce, leaves torn

Procedure
1. Whisk mustard, paprika, sugar, and salt in a bowl. Slowly drizzle in oil until sauce is emulsified; stir in shrimp, parsley, celery, onion, and Tabasco. Serve immediately or chill overnight if you like. Divide lettuce between plates; top with shrimp and garnish with parsley.

Servings: 2

Source: Saveur



Oysters Carnival Leruth

Chef Warren LeRuth is one of New Orleans' legendary chefs, and his former West Bank Restaurant is missed. Here's a great oyster dish to remember it by. (Chef LeRuth is still active as a restaurant consultant.)

Ingredients
5 cups onions, minced
1/2 Tbs garlic, minced
1 bay leaf, minced
4 stalks celery, minced
1/2 tsp thyme leaves
10 Tbs butter
4 dozen oysters, strained (reserve the liquor) and chopped
1 1/2 cups bread crumbs
36 oyster half shells, boiled and scrubbed
18 strips bacon, precooked and crispy, but not too brown, drained, with each strip cut in half
6 lemon wedges for garnish

Procedure
1. In an iron skillet sauté the minced onion, garlic, bay, celery and thyme in 6 tablespoons fo the butter for about 15 minutes. Add the chopped oysters. Moisten 1 cup of the bread crumbs with about 1 cup of the oyster liquor. Add to the above. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons butter and cook until the butter is melted.

2. Fill the oyster shells with the mixture, and sprinkle the remaining 1/2 cup of bread crumbs over the top. Top with bacon pieces. To serve, heat the oysters in a 375F oven for 10 to 15 minutes or until hot. Serve 6 oysters per portion, and garnish each platter with a lemon wedge.

Servings: 6

Source: LeRuth's Restaurant



Posted by Stadium Rat
Metairie
Member since Jul 2004
9523 posts
Posted on 3/31/18 at 1:37 pm to
Pave Au Chocolate Leruth

Ingredients
12 oz dark chocolate
12 large eggs, separated
12 oz unsalted butter, melted
1 Tbs LeRuth’s Vanilla Bean Marinade

Procedure
1. Melt the chocolate in the top of a double boiler. Beat the egg yolks, and slowly fold into the chocolate. Then, fold in the melted butter and vanilla bean marinade.

2. In a separate bowl, whip egg whites until they are stiff, and fold carefully into the chocolate mixture. Line the bottom of an 8-inch cake pan with a circle of baking parchment cut to fit. Pour mixture into the pan and cover. Chill overnight.

3. To serve, slice into small pie-shaped wedges. Top with whipped cream or place a slice in a puddle of crème anglaise. Garnish with fruit coulis (recipe follows) or fresh fruit.

Servings: 8

Tips
Fruit coulis

Makes 1 cup

1 cup fresh fruit (berries preferred)

1/4 cup water or fruit juice

3 tablespoons orange juice

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons sugar

Cook berries in water to cover over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes, and drain. Add juice or water, orange juice and lemon juice. Heat until warm. Press through a fine sieve or use a blender to puree. While mixture is still hot, stir in sugar until it dissolves.



Remoulade Sauce a la Warren Leruth

Ingredients
2 Tbs Paprika
1/4 cup Onion, chopped
3/4 cup Creole or Dijon mustard
2 Tbs Ketchup (if not using Creole mustard)
2 Tbs Horseradish (if not using Creole mustard)
1 tsp Sugar
1 tsp Tabasco
2 Tbs Parsley, chopped
1/2 cup Celery hearts, finely chopped
1 cup Cottonseed or corn oil

Procedure
1. Mix all ingredients together except oil. Drizzle in oil to make an emulsified sauce. May marinate shrimp in sauce for 2-3 hours before serving to intensify flavor.

Source: Posted to FOODWINE Digest 18 Dec 96 From: ALICIA GOLDMAN



Southern Comfort Eggnog Leruth

Ingredients
3/4 cup Southern Comfort
1/2 cup Sugar
6 Eggs
1 quart Whipping Cream
Vanilla Extract to taste

Procedure
1. Separate egg whites from the yolks, and place in separate bowls; lightly beat sugar, egg whites until peaks form. Whip egg yolks until lemon colored. Add whipping cream, vanilla extract, Southern Comfort and mix well. Fold in egg whites.

2. Top with nutmeg if desired.

3. Chill at least 8 hours.



Stuffed Crabs Leruth

EASY AND EXCELLENT: “ “Recently you mentioned Warren Leruth and requested some of his recipes,” writes frequent correspondent B.B. of Baton Rouge. “I have had this one—stuffed Crabs Leruth—for at least 30 years. Since crab meat is plentiful now, this would be a good time to make this excellent and easy recipe. Bon appetit.”

Ingredients
1 stick butter
1 onion, chopped
½ green pepper, chopped
½ loaf po-boy bread, soaked and squeezed dry
1 bunch shallots (green onions), chopped
¼ stalk of celery, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup chopped parsley
1 lb crab meat, picked through for shell particles
Bread crumbs

Procedure
1. Sauté in butter the shallots, celery, onions and bell pepper till soft and well cooked. Add bread, parsley and seasonings. Sauté well while stirring. Allow to cool and add crab meat. Top with breadcrumbs and bake at 375 degrees till brown.

Yield: Makes 6 servings

Recipe Type: Louisiana



Warren Leruth's Fig Preserves

Now that it's fig season, many readers have extra figs. Use these appetizing ways to preserve them for different occasions.

Years ago, the late chef Warren LeRuth gave me this recipe for fig preserves for the "Culinary Q&A" column. It called for two teaspoons of his extra-strong vanilla bean marinade, but he said it would be fine to substitute four teaspoons of pure vanilla extract, as directed here.

Ingredients
1 gallon local figs, small, ripe, on firm side
7 lbs sugar, divided
2 1/2 quarts water, divided
4 tsp pure vanilla extract

Procedure
1. Cover figs with boiling water and soak for 15 minutes.

2. Drain figs; add five pounds of the sugar and two quarts of the water; boil until syrup registers 214 degrees. Remove from heat. Allow figs and syrup to cool overnight.

3. Next day, add two cups water and the remaining two pounds of sugar. Boil to 218 degrees. Add LeRuth's Vanilla Bean Marinade (or vanilla extract).

4. Immediately fill jars and have someone apply the lids tightly and place jars upside down. (This is very important, as by turning upside down, lids are pasteurized.) After about 15 minutes, try to give the lids another tightening and leave upside down until cool.

Yield: 10 to 12 half-pint jars

Source: Times-Picayune



Warren Leruth's Oyster And Artichoke Soup

At one time recipes for oyster and artichoke soup were prized and never revealed. Chef Warren LeRuth created this delicacy and it uas worth tin drive across the Mississippi River for the original.

In testing we first tried the hard way, boiling the artichokes and stripping the meat from each leaf. Other tests used canned, and then defrosted frozen artichoke bottoms Grace Bauer. who cooked the original and tedious method, far preferred the canned version.

Ingredients
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 cup green onions, finely chopped
3 stalks celery, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, pressed
1 3/4 lbs fresh cut artichoke hearts, quartered or
14 oz canned artichoke hearts or
3 packages (19 ounce) frozen artichoke hearts.
3 Tbs all-purpose flour
1 1/2 quarts chicken stock
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp salt
1 Tbs Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp fresh thyme
1 quart oysters, drained and chopped, reserve the liquid
1/3 cup dry sherry
1 cup hall and- half
1 cup milk
garnish sprigs of fresh thyme

Procedure
1. Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed 4-quart pot Add the green onions, celery, and garlic. Saute the vegetables over medium heat until soft, about 4-5 minutes. Add artichokes and mix well, about 1-2 minutes. Sprinkle the mixture with the flour, stirring constantly, about 3-4 minutes. Do not allow the flour to brown. Gradually add the chicken stock, continuing to stir constantly. Add the cayenne pepper, salt. Worcestershire sauce and fresh thyme. Reduce the heat to low. Cover the pot, and allow the mixture to simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

2. Add the oysters, oyster liquid, and dry sherry and simmer for 5 minutes Do not allow it to boil. Slowly stir in the half-and-half and the milk. Remove from heat and allow the soup to cool completely.

3. Once the soup is cooled, refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight. To serve, slowly heat the soup over low heat until thoroughly warmed.

Tips
Steamed or raw fresh artichokes may be hollowed out and used to hold small soup cups for service. Garnish with a sprig of fresh thyme.



Warren Leruth's Pecan Pie

Warren Leruth didn't publish many of his recipes, and fewer still were for dishes he served at the restaurant. The pecan pie was one of the "back door" recipes in his Front Door, Back Door cookbook, a little collection he put out in the 1970s. Here it is:

Ingredients
3 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1 cup white Karo syrup
1/2 stick butter, melted
1 cup pecans
1 nine-inch unbaked pie shell

Procedure
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Mix eggs, sugar and syrup thoroughly. Then stir in melted butter and vanilla. Finally, stir in the pecans. Pour the mixture into the pie shell.

3. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes. Cool for a half hour or more before serving.

Recipe Type: Louisiana

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