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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II

Posted on 1/27/17 at 12:12 pm to
Posted by MountainTiger
The foot of Mt. Belzoni
Member since Dec 2008
14951 posts
Posted on 1/27/17 at 12:12 pm to
skrayper if you want to read up on it, Ken Scramm's book is the best (and almost only) book on the subject.

Also wrt yeasts, I use dry wine yeasts such as Lalvin 71B-1122 and D-47. I wouldn't mess with the liquid yeasts for mead.
Posted by s14suspense
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2007
15818 posts
Posted on 1/27/17 at 3:14 pm to
Damn, what did that run you?

Wanted to use 1318 on ours, but LAhomebrew was out so we have one with 001 and another with 1272
Posted by gmrkr5
NC
Member since Jul 2009
15142 posts
Posted on 1/29/17 at 2:44 pm to
quote:

It basically turns into peanut butter at the bottom. So it takes a little more effort to clean than your typical yeast cake or dry hop trub.


Yup im dreading bottling day even more than usual....

Posted by BMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2005
16813 posts
Posted on 1/30/17 at 10:45 am to
quote:

Damn, what did that run you?


A lot. Just a bit north of $250. Grain was about $100 and yeast was about $30. The rest was hops. 17 ounces of hops going into each 5 gallon batch.

quote:

Wanted to use 1318 on ours, but LAhomebrew was out so we have one with 001 and another with 1272


I may have bought up all the 1318.

Seriously, I bought 5 smack packs of it right when they got it back in stock. I know someone else who bought 3. The other 4 sold out in a couple days.
Posted by LSUBoo
Knoxville, TN
Member since Mar 2006
103984 posts
Posted on 1/30/17 at 10:56 am to
quote:

Then you have to decide when to transfer to secondary


Early and often, of you will start to get some unpleasant medicinal flavors, probably from the dead yeast. They might eventually fade out, but it will take over a year.

I have done three batches of mead, it's easy, but it requires plenty of patience.
Posted by Fratastic423
Baton Rouge
Member since Feb 2007
5990 posts
Posted on 1/30/17 at 11:45 am to
We are dry hopping our Iron Brewer beer tomorrow I think. The all Brett saison we brewed is calling out for a big fruit punch, so adding a few ounces of Equinox to each carboy.
Posted by GregMaddux
LSU Fan
Member since Jun 2011
18715 posts
Posted on 1/31/17 at 7:11 am to
Anyone here ever put flour in the boil for a NE style ipa? Ive seen this in a few recipes. Haven't tried it yet. Probably won't. Just curious
Posted by GregMaddux
LSU Fan
Member since Jun 2011
18715 posts
Posted on 1/31/17 at 7:13 am to
Why are people choosing 1318 over Vermont ipa yeast? Seriously
Posted by Bleed P&G
New Orleans
Member since Aug 2003
3115 posts
Posted on 1/31/17 at 7:47 am to
quote:

Anyone here ever put flour in the boil for a NE style ipa?

I did this once. I threw in a tablespoon of flour at the end of the boil. It made the beer very turbid, much more than it needed to be. The beer tasted fine, but I won't be doing it again. It doesn't really do anything to improve the quality of the beer.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
57803 posts
Posted on 1/31/17 at 8:21 am to
quote:

Why are people choosing 1318 over Vermont ipa yeast? Seriously




I think because 1318 flocculates more slowly. I've used Vermont IPA once, but it was before i knew how to brew an NEIPA. I may try it in the future.
Posted by BMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2005
16813 posts
Posted on 1/31/17 at 8:29 am to
quote:

Why are people choosing 1318 over Vermont ipa yeast?


I've used both, and both are great. The all-Galaxy one I have on tap right now is Vermont Ale. It's delicious. I chose it because the LHBS had it and 1318 was out of stock. This time we needed enough to brew 20 gallons, and 1318 was available.

Got some hops on my ceiling I need to clean up this evening. Even with a blow off tube, there was an incident sometime overnight.
Posted by GregMaddux
LSU Fan
Member since Jun 2011
18715 posts
Posted on 1/31/17 at 9:59 am to
1318 is a high flocculating yeast. Vermont ipa is low to medium.

I've made great beers with 1318 but I'd choose Vermont every time given the option
This post was edited on 1/31/17 at 10:00 am
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
57803 posts
Posted on 1/31/17 at 10:04 am to
quote:

1318 is a high flocculating yeast. Vermont ipa is low to medium.

I've made great beers with 1318 but I'd choose Vermont every time given the option




Well there you go. I haven't used 1318 yet, so it was a guess.

Check out this article as well.

LINK
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
57803 posts
Posted on 2/1/17 at 10:23 am to
Picture of pellicle. This is the long aged sour i oaked.



Here's the recipe

6 lbs 12.0 oz Pilsen (Franco-Belges) (1.8 SRM) Grain 7 60.0 %
3 lbs 12.0 oz Wheat (BestMälz) (2.3 SRM) Grain 8 33.3 %
12.0 oz Spelt (2.5 SRM) Grain 9 6.7 %
0.40 oz Saaz [2.66 %] - Boil 45.0 min Hop 10 3.1 IBUs
0.40 oz Saaz [2.66 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 11 0.7 IBUs
1.0 pkg Belgian Saison I Ale (White Labs #WLP565 Yeast 12 -
1.0 pkg Brettanomyces Bruxellensis (White Labs # Yeast 13 -
1.0 pkg Lactobacillus (Wyeast Labs #5335) [50.28 Yeast 14 -
Bottle dregs were also pitched after being propped up in a starter. Dregs include Hill Farmstead, Jester King, Jolly Pumpkin, and Crooked Stave.

Bottling with brett shortly.
This post was edited on 2/1/17 at 10:27 am
Posted by MountainTiger
The foot of Mt. Belzoni
Member since Dec 2008
14951 posts
Posted on 2/1/17 at 2:17 pm to
That looks awesome. The first time I saw a pellicle like that in one of my beers, every hair on my body stood straight out. There's something about it that just looks so wrong but is so, so right.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
57803 posts
Posted on 2/1/17 at 2:29 pm to
quote:

That looks awesome. The first time I saw a pellicle like that in one of my beers, every hair on my body stood straight out. There's something about it that just looks so wrong but is so, so right.




I know what you mean. I've seen much gnarlier pellicles (none of my own) than this one. It's funny, i didn't see a pellicle on this beer until about 7 or 8 months in. The pellicle only started getting bigger after that. It coincided with removing the bung to take samples. Oxygen ingress would cause the brett to go into defense mode and make the pellicle. I was purging with CO2 after every reading, but i stopped doing that after the last 2 readings. It tastes pretty good right now. Great level of tartness. Not overly acidic (not a fan of the warhead type sours). Very smooth. Very interested to see what the oak does. I'll be taking one more sample this weekend to see how the oak is progressing and if i should remove the spiral or not. Then the next time it is opened up it will be to bottle it. 11 months aged so far.
Posted by MountainTiger
The foot of Mt. Belzoni
Member since Dec 2008
14951 posts
Posted on 2/1/17 at 4:23 pm to
I've got a wine barrel that I'm going to fill up pretty soon when I:
a) figure out what kind of sour to put in it,
2) make room for it in the brewery/basement,
iii) build a cradle for it.

Once full, I'll probably do a single-barrel solera thing with it by pulling 10-15 gallons every year and then re-filling it with fresh wort.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
57803 posts
Posted on 2/1/17 at 9:03 pm to
How big is your brew system?
Posted by MountainTiger
The foot of Mt. Belzoni
Member since Dec 2008
14951 posts
Posted on 2/2/17 at 8:14 am to
10 gallons nominally but I can push it to 11-12.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
57803 posts
Posted on 2/2/17 at 8:25 am to
quote:

10 gallons nominally but I can push it to 11-12.




Damn. That's a little much for me. Hell i'm considering shrinking my batch sizes. If i could find cheap 2.5 gallon kegs, that'd be perfect. It's getting harder to drink 5 gallons at a time, with as quickly as i like to brew. Right now i have 2, 5 gallon kegs, that are 1/2 full each that i'll be dumping at least one in about 3 weeks to make room for another. I think the winter also has something to do with it, as we don't have people over as often when it gets dark at 5 pm. Come on daylight savings!!!

FWIW, i'm brewing up my first attempt at a NE IPA saturday. Posted about it earlier. Got my brewing salts settled and my grist. This is the proposed hop schedule.

1.50 oz Magnum [12.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 12 52.0 IBUs

Whirlpool @ 165 - 170

2.00 oz Citra [0.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 25.0 m Hop 13 0.0 IBUs
1.50 oz Amarillo [0.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 25. Hop 14 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [0.00 %] - Steep/Whi Hop 15 0.0 IBUs

Dry Hops - 1st round about 3 days into fermentation

1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 17 0.0 IBUs
.75 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
.75 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop Hop 19 0.0 IBUs

Dry Hops - 2nd round (end of fermentation

2.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
.75 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs
.75 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Dry Hop Hop 22 0.0 IBUs


Hoping to get a lot of fruity (Citra, Amarillo) and dank (Columbus) out of this one. I brewed this one before a little over a year ago, before i knew anything about yeast selection, chloride/Sulfate levels, pitching times, etc...
This post was edited on 2/2/17 at 8:26 am
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