- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 10/23/20 at 11:39 am to BugAC
Posted on 10/23/20 at 11:39 am to BugAC
Reading through craft beer magazine new issue, this morning and came across this in regards to hopping.
And he follows it up with a recipe
I'm about ready to try my hand at yet another NEIPA. I've got a couple modifications to make in mind, but this may be another. I used to add the final dry hop, then begin cold crashing. I'll try this out. The other changes are
1) RO Water
2) Don't use oat malt anymore, and use flaked oats
3) don't use a filter in the boil for my whirlpool hops. I feel like i'm not getting great utilization when i do this.
4) Split up my Biotrans hops. I used to just have 1 massive biotrans addition for one of my brews and didn't find it added anything.
5) Dry hop when cold crashing.
quote:
The practice, which has now become my default, is to dry hop at almost lager-like temperatures—I’ve been using 38–39°F (3–4°C)—for just two days. I know, it seems bewilderingly wrong—so short, and so ice-cold. How can we get hop character from that?
What the science appears to show, and what my experience so far backs up, is that the process maximizes the extraction of the good stuff—the fragrant stuff such as linalool, in particular—while minimizing the extraction of “green” notes, such as the leafy vegetal and tannin flavors that we could experience in a keg of my old IPA. In other words: By avoiding the flavor of hop-tea, your organoleptic sensations are riven by the stuff you want to experience, not by the mud.
I’ve tried this process with several IPAs and a cream ale, and with several different hops, such pineapple-forward Michigan-grown Chinook, Galaxy, and Mosaic. The difference has been astounding, with a brighter and cleaner hop flavor. Now I’m just dialing in how much and which varieties to use to really
make my IPAs sing
And he follows it up with a recipe
quote:
MALT/GRAIN BILL
13.75 lb (6.2 kg) Mecca Grade Lamonta (or other pale ale malt)
1.25 lb (567 g) Mecca Grade Metolius (or light Munich)
1 lb (454 g) Mecca Grade Opal 22 (or other
pale crystal)
HOPS SCHEDULE
1.5 oz (43 g) Warrior [12% AA] at 60 minutes
1 oz (28 g) Michigan Chinook [12.6% AA] at 5 minutes
1 oz (28 g) Michigan Chinook [12.6% AA] at whirlpool
3 oz (85 g) Michigan Chinook [12.6% AA] at dry hop for 2 days at 38°F (3°C)
YEAST
White Labs WLP001 California Ale
DIRECTIONS
Mill the grains and mash at 150°F (38°C) for 60 minutes. Raise the temperature to 168°F (76°C) for 10 minutes, then mash out. Sparge and lauter as necessary to obtain
about 7.5 gallons (28 liters) of wort—or more, depending on your evaporation rate. Boil 60 minutes, adding hops according to the schedule. After the boil, cool to 170°F
(77°C), add whirlpool hops, and circulate for 20 minutes. Chill to 65°F (18°C), aerate well, and pitch the yeast. Ferment at 65°F (18°C) until complete, then crash to 38°F (3°C) and add the dry hops. After 2 days, package and
carbonate
I'm about ready to try my hand at yet another NEIPA. I've got a couple modifications to make in mind, but this may be another. I used to add the final dry hop, then begin cold crashing. I'll try this out. The other changes are
1) RO Water
2) Don't use oat malt anymore, and use flaked oats
3) don't use a filter in the boil for my whirlpool hops. I feel like i'm not getting great utilization when i do this.
4) Split up my Biotrans hops. I used to just have 1 massive biotrans addition for one of my brews and didn't find it added anything.
5) Dry hop when cold crashing.
This post was edited on 10/23/20 at 11:47 am
2
Posted on 10/26/20 at 6:30 pm to BugAC
Bootleg biology presale is today. Grabbed a couple of sour solera fall 19 batches (gueuze like qualities), a pack of Neepah blend, and a pack of funk weapon #3.
Posted on 10/26/20 at 7:30 pm to BugAC
I pre-ordered the Saison Parfait. What do you think about doing a kettle sour to tart it up a little and then using the Saison yeast?
Posted on 10/26/20 at 8:45 pm to BigPerm30
It’s doable. Personally, I find that the yeast character doesn’t come through strongly on my kettle sours. Probably because the acidity is dominating the flavor. However, if your acidity is low enough, the esters May come through.
I’ve done 100% Brett kettle sours and never could taste any Brett character. And then my kettle sours are fruited or spiced too, so that’s another level of flavor that overwhelms it.
I’ve done 100% Brett kettle sours and never could taste any Brett character. And then my kettle sours are fruited or spiced too, so that’s another level of flavor that overwhelms it.
Posted on 10/26/20 at 8:48 pm to BugAC
I usually sour it for 24 hours. Maybe I’ll do 12 hours. Or maybe I should just throw some lactic acid in it and skip the souring process.
Posted on 10/26/20 at 9:08 pm to BigPerm30
Btw I subscribed to craft beer and brewing and holy moly is there a lot of content there. So many recipes and techniques.
Posted on 10/28/20 at 5:20 pm to puffulufogous
Secondaried a Belgian saison and a Biere de Garde base for long term aging. Saison got 1 gallon of dregs (generation 4) of my first mixed ferm beer and BDG got 1 gallon of wicked weed dregs (4th gen). Both fermenters also got a vial of the yeast bay amalgamation II Brett blend.
2 fermenters in the back are the ones I just talked about. Top left is a solera started 2 years ago. It’s ready for another pull.
Top middle is mixed ferm blend. And front bottom is Biere de Garde mixed ferm on cherries for about 3 months now, which needs to be bottled.
These are my 1 gallon demijohns, which usually consist of mixed ferm beer that was left over from a bottling session.
2 fermenters in the back are the ones I just talked about. Top left is a solera started 2 years ago. It’s ready for another pull.
Top middle is mixed ferm blend. And front bottom is Biere de Garde mixed ferm on cherries for about 3 months now, which needs to be bottled.
These are my 1 gallon demijohns, which usually consist of mixed ferm beer that was left over from a bottling session.
This post was edited on 10/28/20 at 5:24 pm
Posted on 10/30/20 at 8:11 pm to BugAC
So I was looking at the recipe that gnarly barley posted for their korova milk porter and noticed they call for WL san francisco lager yeast. Obviously this is the same house strain they use for catahoula common, but I found it weird that they use a lager strain for a porter. I was under the impression that the only porters that use lager strains are baltic porters, which korova could fall under because the abv is in the 7% range.
According to what I am reading online, baltics are a PITA to brew and need a ton of lager yeast to ferment out at temps around 60. Granted these resources are for brewing baltics in the 10% range. My question is should I try to tackle this as a first lager, try using an ale yeast, or just brew something more straightforward? My cascade pale ale just kicked so I need to get something else going ASAP, maybe a nice 7% american stout.
According to what I am reading online, baltics are a PITA to brew and need a ton of lager yeast to ferment out at temps around 60. Granted these resources are for brewing baltics in the 10% range. My question is should I try to tackle this as a first lager, try using an ale yeast, or just brew something more straightforward? My cascade pale ale just kicked so I need to get something else going ASAP, maybe a nice 7% american stout.
This post was edited on 10/30/20 at 8:36 pm
Posted on 10/31/20 at 6:43 am to puffulufogous
there's nothing really more difficult in doing a lager over an ale. it requires better temp control.
with a lager you have to double your yeast due to colder temp fermenting. with the higher ABV you will probably need to increase more unless you can find a lager yeast that can tolerate the higher abv.
I'd say give it a go. would probably be drinkable no matter what.
with a lager you have to double your yeast due to colder temp fermenting. with the higher ABV you will probably need to increase more unless you can find a lager yeast that can tolerate the higher abv.
I'd say give it a go. would probably be drinkable no matter what.
Posted on 10/31/20 at 7:09 am to puffulufogous
quote:
WL san francisco lager yeast.
Eh, it's genetically a lager yeast, but functionally its more of an ale yeast. You get some minor ester formation at ale temps and pitch rates, but it's going to get covered up in a beer as complex as a milk porter. Start fermentation about 64-65, after a couple days take it up to 68ish, let it finish out.
Posted on 10/31/20 at 8:25 am to BottomlandBrew
I just used that yeast on my Baltic Porter. It took almost a solid two weeks to ferment all the way.
Posted on 10/31/20 at 9:16 am to BottomlandBrew
Is San Fran the anchor steam yeast strain?
I don’t do many lagers but I plan to start making some beginning next year. From what I’ve read, double your starter size and it’s good practice to keep your starter at lower temps. I was looking into a dopplebock a couple days ago and read that some brewers recommend using a 2nd generation lager yeast before attempting that style.
I don’t do many lagers but I plan to start making some beginning next year. From what I’ve read, double your starter size and it’s good practice to keep your starter at lower temps. I was looking into a dopplebock a couple days ago and read that some brewers recommend using a 2nd generation lager yeast before attempting that style.
Posted on 10/31/20 at 10:11 am to BugAC
Yes, or so they say. I've never gotten it to competely match the Anchor Steam profile, but Anchor aso open ferments, so it's hard to exactly reproduce.
34/70 is my lager workhorse. It's just so clean and so easy. You'll find some people claiming it will ferment clean at close to ale temps, but I don't agree. I've tried it and not been pleased. Go traditional lager temps with it. It brightens up real nice, too. S-23 is my second choice.
34/70 is my lager workhorse. It's just so clean and so easy. You'll find some people claiming it will ferment clean at close to ale temps, but I don't agree. I've tried it and not been pleased. Go traditional lager temps with it. It brightens up real nice, too. S-23 is my second choice.
Posted on 11/2/20 at 7:43 am to BottomlandBrew
has anyone used lemondrop hops?
thinking my next beer will be a lemon-honey wheat. curious on amounts to use to get the lemon flavor.
right now i'm leaning towards a late boil addition (5 min or whirlpool)
thinking my next beer will be a lemon-honey wheat. curious on amounts to use to get the lemon flavor.
right now i'm leaning towards a late boil addition (5 min or whirlpool)
Posted on 11/2/20 at 7:51 am to mchias1
I've used them. Despite their name, you will not get any appreciable lemon flavor. They're just your typical American citrus-profile hops. Nothing wrong with them other than being mislabeled as something they're not. If you want lemon, use actual lemon.
Posted on 11/2/20 at 9:12 am to mchias1
quote:
has anyone used lemondrop hops?
Used them once on a beer that ended up being massively oxidized. So no real feedback to give you.
quote:
thinking my next beer will be a lemon-honey wheat. curious on amounts to use to get the lemon flavor.
Sorachi Ace and Citra are a great combo. Plenty of lemon from Sorachi ace.
quote:
right now i'm leaning towards a late boil addition (5 min or whirlpool)
Both
Posted on 11/6/20 at 10:06 am to BugAC
quote:
I'm about ready to try my hand at yet another NEIPA. I've got a couple modifications to make in mind, but this may be another. I used to add the final dry hop, then begin cold crashing. I'll try this out. The other changes are
1) RO Water
2) Don't use oat malt anymore, and use flaked oats
3) don't use a filter in the boil for my whirlpool hops. I feel like i'm not getting great utilization when i do this.
4) Split up my Biotrans hops. I used to just have 1 massive biotrans addition for one of my brews and didn't find it added anything.
5) Dry hop when cold crashing.
Have you brewed this yet? If so, how did it come out?
Planning a double brew day for this Saturday. First time giving it a shot. Beers planned:
1) Oatmeal stout recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. Apparently it has won awards, so hopefully that will be great to have on tap for this winter.
2) NEIPA using up the remainder of my Sabro, El Dorado, and Citra. 14oz total. Thinking I am going to do no bittering hops this time since I find my NEIPAs are consistently more bitter than they should be. Considering this hopping schedule, let me know y'alls thoughts:
- 3.5 oz 1st whirlpool (200 degrees)
- 3.5 oz 2nd whirlpool (165 degrees)
- 6 oz dry hop. Can't decide if I want to do just all at biotransformation, or if I want to split them up and do maybe a day 3 and day 7 charge.... I'm just really paranoid about oxygen, and idk that the 2nd dryhop charge is worth the risk.
This post was edited on 11/6/20 at 10:08 am
Posted on 11/7/20 at 10:27 am to GeauxPack81
Double brew day going great so far. Midway through the boil on #1, oatmeal stout.
1 lb of mosaic hops for $14 on YVH. That's an awesome deal, but it would take me a long time to go through that many hops. Think I might just start doing 8oz buys from now on.
1 lb of mosaic hops for $14 on YVH. That's an awesome deal, but it would take me a long time to go through that many hops. Think I might just start doing 8oz buys from now on.
Posted on 11/7/20 at 10:41 am to GeauxPack81
Brew day as well. Decided to do a cream ale.
3 gal batch
4# pilsner
3# light munich
1# flaked corn
1oz liberty @ 30 mins
3 gal batch
4# pilsner
3# light munich
1# flaked corn
1oz liberty @ 30 mins
Posted on 11/9/20 at 7:34 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
Have you brewed this yet? If so, how did it come out?
Not yet. My next brew will be this Friday, but will be my spruce tip gose. Maybe the following week, or the week after i'll get to the NEIPA.
quote:
- 3.5 oz 1st whirlpool (200 degrees)
- 3.5 oz 2nd whirlpool (165 degrees)
I'm sure you've already brewed this by now, but too hot of a whirlpool and you'll cook off your aromatic oils. Most suggest a whirlpool from 165-180 range.
quote:
Can't decide if I want to do just all at biotransformation, or if I want to split them up and do maybe a day 3 and day 7 charge.... I'm just really paranoid about oxygen, and idk that the 2nd dryhop charge is worth the risk
Again, i'm sure it's already brewed, but from doing some reading, it's recommended to not add more than 3-4 oz. of hops per dry hop charge due to utilization factors. The New IPA cites some studies done on massively dry hopped beers and tests not being able to pick up any noticeable difference in hop aroma/flavor of 4+ oz. of dry hops, and 3 oz. of dry hops. Now as you said, I too was paranoid with O2 pickup, and i have also made a couple beers with just 1 single biotrans hop schedule, and the guys on the brulosophy podcast do this too, because of O2. I didn't get any big punch of hop aroma/flavor, but then again, these beers were also mired by an overly malty grain bill (oat malt instead of flaked oats beers).
My next NEIPA i plan to split up the dry hops between 3 and 7 day charges. While i think O2 limitation is vital for these beers, i think like all things in brewing, we as homebrewers may take it too far to live up to pro-brewery standards which aren't necessarily applicable to our setting. Personally, i think my brew practices are good enough to not have to worry about O2 ingress at the 7 day mark, as long as i force some CO2 in the fermenter right after i add the hops. I think the cold crash guardian i use, as well as my O2 free transfer process is sufficient to prevent Oxygen creep in my beers.
Page 240 of 277
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News