re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II

Do Mr. Beer kits suck and produce nasty arse beer? They appear to be remarkably simple. I feel as if I could get a lot of use out of the equipment even if I don’t buy Mr. Beer recipe kits or come up with my own recipes.

I could be down for the TD brew club. My beer tastes are basically only good for malt forward beers. Not a fan of hoppy beers like NEIPAs or IPAs. But always good to learn better/different techniques.

Anyone have a can seamer? Cannular looks pretty cool. Looking for a way to travel with my beers more easily and give them away too. I don’t bottle.

me and my buddy are on the verge of buying a canner.

we were looking at the Oktober. Not sure why the Cannular is so much cheaper. the Oktober is tried and true.

Doing some perusing of zymurgy magazine online and came across a Julius clone. I've never had it but i know it gets plenty of praise. Something i found interesting is the whilrpool temp of 108 degrees, as opposed to a warmer 170-180 which is typically customary. Essentially, it's a warmer side dry hop, and makes sense that this would retain more of your hop oil compounds. This is definitely something i'll be employing in my future NEIPA's.

Tree House Brewing Company Julius Clone | India Pale Ale

INGREDIENTS
For 5.5 US gallons (20.8 L)

FERMENTABLES
5.5 lb (2.49 kg) US two-row pale malt
4.5 (2.04 kg) Golden Promise pale malt
1.25 lb (0.57 kg) Carafoam
1 lb. (454 g) aromatic malt
4 oz. (113 g) dextrose

HOPS
0.5 oz. (14 g) Warrior 15% a.a. @ 60 min
0.5 oz. (14 g) Apollo 17% a.a. @ 20 min
0.75 oz. (21 g) Citra 12% a.a. @ 15 min
0.5 oz. (14 g) Apollo 17% a.a. @ 10 min
1.5 oz (42 g) Apollo 17% a.a. whirlpool 60 min @ 108° F
3 oz (85 g) Citra 12% a.a. whirlpool 60 min @ 108° F
1.5 oz (42 g) Apollo 17% a.a. dry hop 4 days
4.5 oz (127 g) Citra 12% a.a. dry hop 4 days

YEAST
12.8 g Fermentis SafAle S-04 English Ale
0.4 g Fermentis SafBrew WB-06 Wheat
0.7 g Fermentis SafBrew T-58 Specialty Ale

WATER
Add NaCl, CaCl and MgS04 to reverse osmosis water to achieve the following profile: Ca 15 ppm, Mg 26 ppm, S04 140 ppm, Na 78 ppm, Cl 120 ppm

SPECIFICATIONS
Original Gravity: 1.067 (12.5° P)
Final Gravity: 1.012 (3° P)
ABV: 6.8% by volume
IBU: 68-70
SRM: 5.7
Efficiency: 82%

DIRECTIONS
Mash at 156°F (69°C) for one hour, adjusting pH to 5.2 with citric acid if necessary. Mash out at 168°F (76°C). Fly sparge at 168-170°F (76-77°C). Don’t use Whirlfloc or Irish moss in the boil. Chill to 108°F (42°C) and add whirlpool hops, stirring or whirlpooling to keep hops in suspension for 60 minutes. Chill to 70°F (21°C) and pitch dry yeast blend; do not pitch more WB-06 and T-58 than specified, as they will dominate the clean base strain. There is no need to hydrate the dry yeast prior to pitching and no need to aerate or oxygenate the wort. After 24 hours, lower fermentation temperature gradually to 64°F (18°C) over a 60-hour period, let fermentation run at 64° F for 4-5 days depending on yeast activity, and then add the dry hops to primary and ferment to completion (usually about 2 days). Take care to minimize oxygen uptake at all times after fermentation. Cold crash to 32°F (0°C) for 2 days, then closed-transfer to a keg and force carbonate.


ETA: The homebrewer who created this clone has other clones on his website of other famous "juicy" IPA's.
Trinity brewers

Notes about recipe

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Thanks to HomebrewTalk forum user Isomerization running some pretty awesome DNA tests on yeasts and dregs from Treehouse cans, we have a pretty solid idea of what different yeasts are in each of the Treehouse core offerings.

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I forgot to release the pressure at one point and shot a gallon of finished beer out of the fermenting side liquid out all over my fridge, ceiling, and wife's car.

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Lol, I think we’ve all been there. I stupidly pushed down on the beer out poppet once and sprayed myself in the eye. One time I connected the liquid out post (without tubing) while the keg was pressurized. Shot beer all over the garage.

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All that being said, are the 300 micron dip tube filters good enough for preventing this or do I need to get a hop chamber as well? What about floating dip tubes?

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If you are referring to the ones I posted earlier, yes they are. They work great. You may have to trim them down to fit in your carboy, but if you are fermenting in kegs, you won’t have to. I’ll post the Scott Janish article that shows what he did, and where I learned about the filters, tomorrow.

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In your experience the dip tube filter with drilled stopper is good enough to handle any hop debris and trub from keg fermentation?

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Should be. I don't ferment in kegs. But, i do transfer from carboy to keg. I add the filter to the carboy, then do an O2 free transfer. I've also dry hopped in the keg with another filter on the dip tube like in the picture. It worked great.

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I was also looking at one of those corny keg hoppers to use in combination but it's twice the price of the dip tube filters.

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If you have one of those filters, you don't need it. That filter will do the job, per my experience with keg hopping.

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I guess I'm wondering if the dip tube filter could handle trub and several ounces of loose hops.

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I'm pretty sure it can. Now again, i haven't fermented in a keg before, so the filters time on the dregs in my carboy or brief, but that being said, i can't imagine you'd have significant ingress of trub in the filter, or at least enough to clog anything up.

The time i used 2 filters: I had one in the carboy before i transferred my beer to the keg via a closed transfer. I Had another filter on the dip tube in the keg. I added the keg hops, and transferred from the carboy, via filter in carboy, to the keg. That wort went through the dip tube, and dispersed throughout the keg. So if there was any trub pickup from the carboy filter, i would have definitely picked it up in the keg filter. I had ZERO issues with clogs.

I'm assuming you are keg fermenting to reduce O2 pickup? I've had success in doing this without keg fermenting by employing the O2 free transfer method shown in my pictures, and also utilizing the cold crash guardian. That seems to be the area where the greatest potential for o2 pickup for me would be, and the guardian has worked perfectly so far.

I got mine for $6 because i bought it during their beta testing phase of the latest version. A day later testing ended and it went into full production and the price jumped up to $19.

Cold Crash Guardian

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All that being said, are the 300 micron dip tube filters good enough for preventing this or do I need to get a hop chamber as well? What about floating dip tubes?

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When you get this figured out please post what you did. I use floating dip tubes. They work well for most beers but when I dry hop heavily or have some fruit in the beer, they clog.

So i'm currently trying to setup my Turbid Mash schedule for the lambic i'm making in the next few months. I'll probably need another 2 gallon pot to hold the turbid portion.

Here is my process that i'm thinking right now.

Steps:
1. Heat up 5 gallons (20 qts) of water to 144 – LARGE POT
2. 1ST INFUSION (Betaglucanse/Acid Rest): Mash in 2.5 qts @ 144 with grains to get mash temp of 113 F (110-118 F) @ 20 minutes. (Just enough water to get grain damp, really. – MASH TUN
3. Heat water in Kettle (17.5 qts) to a boil and hold. – LARGE POT
4. Let mash rest (step 2) for 20 minutes – MASH TUN
5. 2ND INFUSION (Protease Rest): Add 4 qts of boiling water (13.5 qts remaining) to get mash temp up to 136 F @ 5 minutes. – MASH TUN
6. Do a brief vorlauf in mash tun. Pull 1 qt of wort from mash – MASH TUN
a. Heat 1 qt. of “turbid” wort to 176 to stop enzymatic action – BREW KETTLE
7. 3RD INFUSION (Saccharification beta rest): Add 6 qts of boiling liquid from Kettle (7.5 qts remaining) to mash tun to get mash up to 150 F – MASH TUN.
a. Pull 4 more quarts from mash and combine with the 1 qt of turbid mash, and heat up to 176 – BREW KETTLE.
b. Let mash and turbid mash rest for 30 minutes.
8. FINAL INFUSION (Saccharification Alpha Rest): Add 5 qts of boiling water (2.5 qts remaining) to Mash Tun to get mash up to 162 F @ 20 minutes – LARGE POT/ MASH TUN
a. Slowly raise turbid portion to 186 F.
9. Top off Large pot with enough water to get to 5 gallons of sparge water. Bring up to 185 F – LARGE POT/SPARGE TANK
10. Add “turbid” starchy water (should be @ 186 F) to Mash Tun to get mash temp up to 165-172 F and rest for 20 minutes.
11. Vorlauf
12. Fly sparge with 6.4 gallons of 185 water until 9 gallons in boil kettle.
13. Boil for 2.5-3.5 hours.

I plan to make this beer once/year. I've also seen single infusion options of just mashing in around 162 and letting everything go. Current modified malts don't require step mashing as they used to, so i may try this for a backup batch and keep 2 simultaneous lambic batches each year. More blending options available couldn't hurt.