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Message
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 6/10/20 at 8:53 am to BigDropper
Posted on 6/10/20 at 8:53 am to BigDropper
quote:
I've been watching Genus Brewing videos & they swear by Ascorbic acid (vitamin c). It's a natural antioxidant unlike SMB (Na2S2O5) & PMB (K2S2O5) that Brülosophy exbeerimented with.
Someone in the reddit thread on the Brulosophy article mentioned Ascorbic acid as well. Might have to look into that.
quote:Yep! I gotta try it... I do not, I've only brewed 2 so far, and I switched it up on the second one. Both were good, neither was fantastic. I'll probably try something new again this time.
Cheater hops!!! That should work well. Do you have a tried & true NEIPA recipe?
The berliner was way easier than I expected it to be. Just one extra step. Like BigPerm mentioned, I just put a packet of the goodbelly probiotic in there and after about a day and a half it had soured to a level I liked.
I have never been a huge lager fan, but ever since I started brewing I have a new found appreciation for so many styles that I really never drank much of before. I've brewed a kolsch and a mexican lager, and I loved both of them. Going to do an Oktoberfest this year for sure.
1
Posted on 6/10/20 at 9:49 am to BigPerm30
quote:
kettle sour
I've watched a couple of videos & read a few articles about this method and the process seems pretty straight forward. Couple of questions regarding the souring technique.
1) does the good belly impart any flavor into the final product?
2) can I use my probiotic supplements (that contain 400 billion cells and 10 strains of lactobacillus)?
3)best practice for adding fruit?
Thanks for the feedback!
Posted on 6/10/20 at 10:03 am to BigDropper
quote:
I've been drinking a lot of this recently & the idea of brewing one interest me. I just need to build a separate lagering apparatus so I don't occupy my main fermentation chamber.
there is nothing more satisfying to me (brewing related) than nailing a light lager. there is nothing for off flavors to hide behind.
I currently have a Kolsch fermenting and it is almost as satisfying.
This post was edited on 6/10/20 at 10:04 am
Posted on 6/10/20 at 10:50 am to BigDropper
quote:
1) does the good belly impart any flavor into the final product?
Yes, I’ve only used the blueberry one cause that’s all I could find. I hear the mango one is not noticeable.
quote:
2) can I use my probiotic supplements (that contain 400 billion cells and 10 strains of lactobacillus)?
I don’t see why this wouldn’t work.
quote:
3)best practice for adding fruit?
I’ve thrown fruit in during fermenting and after fermenting. I think the sour masks any subtle fruit flavors you would get during fermenting. I thought throwing fruit in during fermenting was a waste of money. Fruit post fermentation is the best bang for the buck. That’s been my experience anyway. Others may have a different opinion.
Posted on 6/10/20 at 11:00 pm to BigPerm30
Last brew day I did what I thought was a fly sparge but only over like 15 minutes doing it manually. For those of us not using electric systems, are you doing batch sparge instead of fly?
Any reason not to rehydrate my US05?
For those of you using beersmith, what is your usual trub loss during the brewing process? BS defaults to 1gal but I am pretty sure I haven't ever lost that much and I don't want to have to pour good wort down the drain if it doesn't fit in my carboy.
I decided to do an oz of summit for 45 minutes for bittering. For flameout one oz citra and 2 oz sabro. for Biotrans one oz citra and 2 oz sabro. Any thoughts on that?
Any reason not to rehydrate my US05?
For those of you using beersmith, what is your usual trub loss during the brewing process? BS defaults to 1gal but I am pretty sure I haven't ever lost that much and I don't want to have to pour good wort down the drain if it doesn't fit in my carboy.
I decided to do an oz of summit for 45 minutes for bittering. For flameout one oz citra and 2 oz sabro. for Biotrans one oz citra and 2 oz sabro. Any thoughts on that?
Posted on 6/11/20 at 6:55 am to puffulufogous
I don't rehydrate my yeast and all I use is dry yeast. It generally gets going around 12 hours after pitching.
Depending on the size batch, last batch I did was 3 gallons and with a whirlfloc i still lost .75 gallon to trub in the boil kettle. I also do BIAB and there was a good bit of flour.
Depending on the size batch, last batch I did was 3 gallons and with a whirlfloc i still lost .75 gallon to trub in the boil kettle. I also do BIAB and there was a good bit of flour.
Posted on 6/11/20 at 7:12 am to puffulufogous
quote:
Any reason not to rehydrate my US05?
I've done it both ways. It's so easy to pour the yeast in a bottle of water that I keep doing it just in case. I think the theory is that pouring the yeast in to ~90 degree water shocks the yeast less and you end up with more living cells when pitched in to the beer. I normally pitch 2 satchets because I'd rather over pitch than under. When I hydrate it does seem to show signs of active fermentation sooner.
ETA: did some googling. LINK
quote:
The main idea behind rehydrating dry yeast is that it reacclimates the cells to a liquid environment. In their dried state, yeast cells are dormant, which is ideal for storage but not for fermentation. Hydrating them "wakes them up" and this, in turn, allows the yeast to ferment with less trouble. However, as dried yeast reconstitute, their cell walls lose the ability to regulate what passes through them, so at nonoptimal temperature ranges, the yeast can actually leach their innards through their cell wall. Sounds gruesome. And it can be. Hydrating at temperatures that are too cool can reportedly cause a 60% loss in viable cells. That's a massacre.
Given the potential problems, and the slight hassle of rehydrating yeast, direct pitching seems like a no-brainer. Unfortunately, there are problems associated with this method as well. As we learned, yeast does not have the ability to regulate what passes through their cell walls as they come back to life. The same holds true when yeast is introduced directly to the wort. Sugars and other compounds are able to pass into the yeast cell, killing it. For this reason, direct pitching is not an ideal situation. A loss of 30% in viable yeast cells, possibly more, could be the result.
In my opinion, rehydrating yeast properly is the best practice, but it does take some precision. Yeast needs to be hydrated between 95 and 105 degrees (it varies by strain and manufacturer) and it needs to be hydrated in tap water with some hardness. None of this bottled/filtered crap. Just good, old fashioned, American tap water. Distilled or filtered water will decrease cell viability. In high gravity beers or lagers, rehydrating at the proper temperature and slowly cooling (to avoid temperature shock) is the best way to get viability, and these types of beers are where it really matters.
looks like i've been doing it wrong.
This post was edited on 6/11/20 at 7:16 am
Posted on 6/11/20 at 11:18 am to puffulufogous
quote:
For those of us not using electric systems, are you doing batch sparge instead of fly?
I've only ever fly sparged.
quote:
Any reason not to rehydrate my US05?
Every chance you get to ensure your yeast are healthy and active, take it. It will only ensure your beer comes out great.
quote:
For those of you using beersmith, what is your usual trub loss during the brewing process? BS defaults to 1gal but I am pretty sure I haven't ever lost that much and I don't want to have to pour good wort down the drain if it doesn't fit in my carboy.
I need to update it. I'm at .75 gallons now, and .5 loss in the fermenter, but that changes depending on the amount of hops in a beer. Given those inputs, i typically design a 6 gallon beer for a 5 gallon batch, for a low to no hopped beer. For NEIPA's, i up my design batch size to 6.5 gallons, and i'm usually 1/2 short of 5 gallons after all of the dry hopping, before it goes in the keg. I probably won't change anything, because i know how my system works, given the parameters. That is, until i go full electric.
quote:
I decided to do an oz of summit for 45 minutes for bittering. For flameout one oz citra and 2 oz sabro. for Biotrans one oz citra and 2 oz sabro. Any thoughts on that?
Should be good for a nice pale ale. Your flameout/whirlpool hops should be kept around 180 degrees to extract some more of the fruity/citrusy hop oils. For my hazy beers, i usually have about 6 oz. on the cold side between biotrans/dry hop/keg hop additions.
Posted on 6/11/20 at 12:09 pm to puffulufogous
quote:
For those of us not using electric systems, are you doing batch sparge instead of fly?
I Brew in a Bag. I typically just have a separate 1 gal of water that I just scoop, 2 cups at a time, and pour it over the grains.
quote:I have been brewing 5 gal batches, 4.5gal into the fermenter (keg), and about 4 gal into the serving keg. So overall I am losing about a gallon, but I think I could get closer to 0.75 gal if I really wanted to try. I probably stop racking from both quicker than most people.
For those of you using beersmith, what is your usual trub loss during the brewing process?
Posted on 6/11/20 at 12:59 pm to BugAC
I've got my grains, conducting another double brew day tomorrow. Brewing a blender batch/continuum of my mixed ferm biere de garde and a brett pale ale based off of Jester King's Noble King Saison, however, i added some caramunich malt to give it some color. Biere de Garde will be blended with my current Biere de garde, conditioned for another 2 weeks after blending, then bottled. The remainder will be used to top off/blend. The Brett Pale is Jester King's noble king recipe provided to me by JK themselves a few years back. I'm adding caramunich hops to give it some color/flavor, but following the same EKG, Fuggles, Perle hopping schedule. I'll be fermenting with Belgian Saison in the primary, then loading it up with differing bretts in the secondary.
So each beer will be primaried in 6.5 gallon fermenters. Once fermented out with sach, the BDG will be split into 2, 3 gallon fermenters. There, one 3 gallon batch will receive brett, while the other will await blending with the 1 year old batch.
The Brett Pale will receive a dose of 2-3 brett blends and will ferment out for an additional 3-4 months before packaging.
I'm going to be doing a lot of juggling between fermenters once i start blending and packaging to ensure my cultures are being used.
BIERE DE GARDE RECIPE
30% Chateau Pilsner
30% Bonlander Munich
30% BestMalz Vienna
10% Weyermann Caramel Rye
12 oz. Soft Candi Sugar Light
.5 Magnum @ 60 (15 IBU's)
1 oz. Hersbrucker (Steep @ 180 for 30 minutes)
2 oz. Hersbrucker (Dry Hop 10 days)
WYEAST 3522 Belgian Ardennes
Bootleg Biology Funk Weapon #3 - Brett Brux
BRETT PALE/SAISON
72% Chateau Pils
14% Flaked Wheat
8% Caramunich
6% Flaked Oats
.5 EKG @ 60 min.
.5 EKG @ 10 min.
.5 Fuggle @ 10 min
.5 EKG @ 30 minute whirlpool @ 180
.5 Fuggle @ 30 minute whirlpool @ 180
.5 Perle @ 30 minute whirlpool @ 180
.5 EKG @ dry hop 7 days
.5 Fuggle @ dry hop 7 days
.5 Perle @ dry hop 7 days
WYEAST 3724 Belgian Saison
TYB184 - Brett Brux
TYB Lochristi Brett
Bootleg Biology Funk Weapon #2 - Brett Brux
Should start heating water around 7 am, and finish around 4 or 5.
So each beer will be primaried in 6.5 gallon fermenters. Once fermented out with sach, the BDG will be split into 2, 3 gallon fermenters. There, one 3 gallon batch will receive brett, while the other will await blending with the 1 year old batch.
The Brett Pale will receive a dose of 2-3 brett blends and will ferment out for an additional 3-4 months before packaging.
I'm going to be doing a lot of juggling between fermenters once i start blending and packaging to ensure my cultures are being used.
BIERE DE GARDE RECIPE
30% Chateau Pilsner
30% Bonlander Munich
30% BestMalz Vienna
10% Weyermann Caramel Rye
12 oz. Soft Candi Sugar Light
.5 Magnum @ 60 (15 IBU's)
1 oz. Hersbrucker (Steep @ 180 for 30 minutes)
2 oz. Hersbrucker (Dry Hop 10 days)
WYEAST 3522 Belgian Ardennes
Bootleg Biology Funk Weapon #3 - Brett Brux
BRETT PALE/SAISON
72% Chateau Pils
14% Flaked Wheat
8% Caramunich
6% Flaked Oats
.5 EKG @ 60 min.
.5 EKG @ 10 min.
.5 Fuggle @ 10 min
.5 EKG @ 30 minute whirlpool @ 180
.5 Fuggle @ 30 minute whirlpool @ 180
.5 Perle @ 30 minute whirlpool @ 180
.5 EKG @ dry hop 7 days
.5 Fuggle @ dry hop 7 days
.5 Perle @ dry hop 7 days
WYEAST 3724 Belgian Saison
TYB184 - Brett Brux
TYB Lochristi Brett
Bootleg Biology Funk Weapon #2 - Brett Brux
Should start heating water around 7 am, and finish around 4 or 5.
Posted on 6/11/20 at 1:06 pm to puffulufogous
quote:
For those of us not using electric systems, are you doing batch sparge instead of fly?
I always did batch sparge. Never saw a reason to fly sparge.
quote:
Any reason not to rehydrate my US05?
Doesn't really make a difference one way or the other in my experience.
Posted on 6/11/20 at 9:27 pm to GeauxPack81
quote:
kolsch
You & Loup both mentioned this style. It was the second beer I ever brewed & I really liked the results & need to revisit it...
quote:
mexican lager
Arches Brewing here in ATL has a great version of this style. Love the taste of Vienna malt.
This post was edited on 6/11/20 at 9:32 pm
Posted on 6/11/20 at 10:12 pm to BottomlandBrew
Brewed the APA today. Some notes I took from the process.
1) bring more strike water than you need to temp. It is far easier to dump extra water than it is to warm more up. Also it takes around a gal or more to preheat my tuns so I need to account for that.
2) Don't trust the temp reading on my keggle thermometer. It was way off and I ended up overshooting my temp for strike water until I confirmed with my thermapen
3) BS told me to mash with 14.5 qts for my grain which seemed really thick to me. I made an executive decision to add another 2qts. In retrospect I never added the lb of rice hulls in BS which would've prompted me to increase my infusion volume. I need to make sure everything going into the mash is accounted for.
4) When batch sparging I need to Vorlauf for each stage of the sparge. I vorlaufed very well initially, but failed to do so when sparging the first time and noticed a fair amount of hulls in the kettle.
5) My predicted OG for 72% efficiency was 1.054. Efficiency on last brew was over 76%. OG was 1.058 so either I boiled too vigorously or my efficiency was againt >75%. Need more measurements to confirm.
All in all the wort looked good and I was glad I rehydrated and pitched two packs of US05 based on my higher OG. Despite adding whirlfloc with 15 min left in the boil the wort was still kind of cloudy. Is that normal?
1) bring more strike water than you need to temp. It is far easier to dump extra water than it is to warm more up. Also it takes around a gal or more to preheat my tuns so I need to account for that.
2) Don't trust the temp reading on my keggle thermometer. It was way off and I ended up overshooting my temp for strike water until I confirmed with my thermapen
3) BS told me to mash with 14.5 qts for my grain which seemed really thick to me. I made an executive decision to add another 2qts. In retrospect I never added the lb of rice hulls in BS which would've prompted me to increase my infusion volume. I need to make sure everything going into the mash is accounted for.
4) When batch sparging I need to Vorlauf for each stage of the sparge. I vorlaufed very well initially, but failed to do so when sparging the first time and noticed a fair amount of hulls in the kettle.
5) My predicted OG for 72% efficiency was 1.054. Efficiency on last brew was over 76%. OG was 1.058 so either I boiled too vigorously or my efficiency was againt >75%. Need more measurements to confirm.
All in all the wort looked good and I was glad I rehydrated and pitched two packs of US05 based on my higher OG. Despite adding whirlfloc with 15 min left in the boil the wort was still kind of cloudy. Is that normal?
Posted on 6/12/20 at 7:06 am to puffulufogous
I find my beers are never really clear until after I cold crash. Plus wort in the fermenter always looks darker/cloudier than beer in the glass.
Posted on 6/12/20 at 9:26 am to puffulufogous
quote:
1) bring more strike water than you need to temp. It is far easier to dump extra water than it is to warm more up. Also it takes around a gal or more to preheat my tuns so I need to account for that.
It took me about 3 brews before i got my new mash tun and new mash process dialed in. I bought the InfuSSion mash tun from SS Brewtech a couple years ago. Also bought the hot rod heat stick from brewhardware.com. I'm now able to heat up all of my strike water in the mash tun, as opposed to heating everything up in the kettle then pouring into the cooler mash tun i used to use. But it took me a few brews to dial in the effects of heating up 9 gallons of strike water to mash temps, to get the mash temp to the temp i want, then adjusting beersmith to those settings.
quote:
2) Don't trust the temp reading on my keggle thermometer. It was way off and I ended up overshooting my temp for strike water until I confirmed with my thermapen
The InfuSsion mash tun has a digital temp probe but i always double check with a thermapen.
quote:
4) When batch sparging I need to Vorlauf for each stage of the sparge. I vorlaufed very well initially, but failed to do so when sparging the first time and noticed a fair amount of hulls in the kettle.
I've only ever fly sparged. But my vorlauf is conducted prior to sparging.
quote:
5) My predicted OG for 72% efficiency was 1.054. Efficiency on last brew was over 76%. OG was 1.058 so either I boiled too vigorously or my efficiency was againt >75%. Need more measurements to confirm.
I'm running around a 73-75% brewhouse efficiency. It would probably be higher, but i always brew about .5 gallon or so more, than what i need, especially when doing sours. I use the extra to top off fermenters. My mash efficiency has been around 85% for all my brews. Some times a little less.
quote:
Despite adding whirlfloc with 15 min left in the boil the wort was still kind of cloudy. Is that normal?
You're clarity will come in the fermenter, unless you are making a hazy APA. I used to use irish moss a lot. It's a protein coagulant. It should reduce some of your trub, or at least cause it to fall out of suspension. It will clear your beer, but the real clarity should come post fermentation.
Posted on 6/12/20 at 9:29 am to BugAC
On another note, and thanks to another poster, i've been using those proper starter cans for my yeast starters. Man, those things are simple and easy to use. Yeah, it's more expensive. @ $4.50 a can, you get 1 starter's worth, whereas the old way of boiling some DME, you could get about 3 starters worth of wort for $1.99, but not having to boil and cool a couple liters of wort is worth it. Swirl the can, pour into flask, add 16 oz. bottle of water, swirl, pitch yeast, set on stir plate, and you're done.
Made 2 starters last night for tomorrow's brew day in about 3-4 minutes. I'm a fan.
Made 2 starters last night for tomorrow's brew day in about 3-4 minutes. I'm a fan.
Posted on 6/12/20 at 9:40 am to BugAC
how big of starter? what if i need to do a 5 liter starter?
if i ever get a canner i would think about making high gravity starter cans. boil it in the brew pot, can the wort, then pasteurize it so how.
if i ever get a canner i would think about making high gravity starter cans. boil it in the brew pot, can the wort, then pasteurize it so how.
This post was edited on 6/12/20 at 9:42 am
Posted on 6/12/20 at 9:47 am to CarRamrod
Might have been me that mentioned them. I use them. Takes 5 min max to get a starter going. Worth the extra money IMO.
quote:1 can and 1 bottle of water makes about a 1 liter starter, so you would need 5 of each. You making huge batches? Thats a big arse starter
how big of starter? what if i need to do a 5 liter starter?
Posted on 6/12/20 at 10:13 am to CarRamrod
quote:
how big of starter? what if i need to do a 5 liter starter?
Makes about 1.5 to 2L starter. Just add another can and bottle of water and you could have a bigger starter.
Posted on 6/12/20 at 10:27 am to BugAC
quote:yea me and a buddy routinely do 10-15 gallon batches of big beers we share.
1 can and 1 bottle of water makes about a 1 liter starter, so you would need 5 of each. You making huge batches? Thats a big arse starter
quote:yea but then it goes from 5$ a starter to 10-15$ a starter. Thats cool for a while then you realized you are spening more on starter cans than hops.
Makes about 1.5 to 2L starter. Just add another can and bottle of water and you could have a bigger starter.
Anyway i have a Dos Equis clone i need to keg and get on pressure to finish lagering. and I need to do a new NEIPA.
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