re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II

LINK

Anyone know what these fittings this guy has on the carboy cap? This seems like it would work better than that plastic piece of shite that comes with the siphon starter.

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ended up getting pissed off and just opened the keg and poured the remaining 2 gallons into the keg.

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I've had to take the lid off my SS brewbucket, sanitize my arm and stick my hand down into the beer to clear the stuck valve several times with no I'll affects. Pouring the beer probably oxidized it though. I don't know where I'm going with this comment but I'm sure your beer will be ok.

sorry, i thought i included a LINK. apparently they are helpful for carboy closed transferring.

i used the calculator you sent but then ended up just saying F'kit and decided to purchase another packet of s-04. going to put half in each bucket-full with the corn sugar when I bottle. didn't want to overthink it. seems the culprit was an uncalibrated inkbird. did an ice slurry test to see where it was at and the lowest it hit was 39.7 no wonder that shite was frozen. c'est la vie...

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i think you rare making too big of deal out of this oxidation

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You may be right, but i've been fine tuning my NEIPA's for awhile now. And the biggest difference, was doing the closed transfer last go round. The beer had much better hop aroma and flavor, and it lasted the entire keg (about 2 months).

We'll see. If it ends up turning quickly i'll just use it like i've done before. Beer brine for chicken wings.

How long do y'all ferment your NEIPAs? I went 11 days (plus a day for cold crash) for my last one , but I think I am going to try and go 10 days this go around. I don't have a tilt or anything constantly measure gravity, and I don't want to pull any samples if I can avoid it.

Fermenting with London Ale III 1318, 69 degrees. Used a 2 L starter.

Thank you to the posters urging me to continue on with my amber colored wort. After fermentation and dry-hopping, it looks completely normal for a NEIPA. Great color actually. Lesson learned... Closed transfer to my keg last night. Took a small sample to taste and it had great aroma. This is my first time using amarillo hops. Took a taste and its even lighter than I expected, which I am happy about. FG of 1.012 which definitely put me at the high end attenuation for Wyeast 1318. Hoping it will be a great NEIPA for the summer months.


I'm in deep into this homebrewing stuff now. Bought a 3-way manifold and a second keg. Built a stand for my kegs to be able to fit both into my outdoor fridge using the least amount of space possible. Still have room for a 2.5 or 3 gallon keg to be bought eventually. I really like the idea of having 3 taps going at once. 5 gallons of something like a wheat ale /kolsch/blonde ale sure to appease the masses, 5 gallons of an IPA or stout which will still attract alot of people, and 2.5 gallons of something more unique on tap. Next projects will be to organize all my lines neatly and drill holes through the fridge door for actual taps.

Sorry if y'all don't care, I'm just excited . I do actually have a question though:

My manifold doesn't have individual regulators, just open/close valves for each line. Is there any way to force carb my new beer while keeping my other beer at a normal serving pressure? At first I just hooked up the new keg, put at 30psi and shook it around some. But then I released the pressure till it was at 12psi cause I was worried if I hooked it up to the manifold at that pressure then the CO2 would push out and fill both kegs till the pressure was even. Isn't that how it would work?

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Using my carb stone only takes 24 hours and it is perfectly carbed whereas force carb usually took me about 3 days to get optimal

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im assuming you are talking equal pressures. Looks like i will buy a carb stone keg lid.

10/4

i need to get back to brewing with work and kid i havent had time to do it.

Where do y'all get your CO2 refilled? I ran out, and I can't think of anywhere that would have it that's open on Sunday.