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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 12/28/18 at 11:06 am to GeauxPack81
Posted on 12/28/18 at 11:06 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
Do y'all use pin lock kegs or ball lock kegs? Does it really matter which one I get?
A couple of small advantages to ball locks. They have a pressure relief that you can open when filling the keg. And they're more common.
quote:
Also, as I want to try another stout after this one. I've read for high ABV beers its a good idea to get a blow-off tube instead of an air-lock. Is that what y'all use?
True but most stouts are not that high in gravity so I wouldn't worry about it. The exception is imperial stout.
This post was edited on 12/28/18 at 11:15 am
Posted on 12/31/18 at 3:25 pm to MountainTiger
Brewed a stout yesterday. First time, I’m hoping it turns out good.
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[/img]Posted on 1/2/19 at 2:34 pm to Bro Dad
quote:
Brewed a stout yesterday. First time, I’m hoping it turns out good.
First time brewing or first time brewing a stout? You doing 2 gallon batches?
Looks good. My new stainless mash tun comes in friday. Think i'll brew next weekend. Probably brew up a NEIPA with mostly Neomexicanus hops.
This post was edited on 1/2/19 at 2:37 pm
Posted on 1/3/19 at 10:04 am to BugAC
Finally got my kegging equipment, so I will be kegging my "accidental session" stout tonight most likely. I am thinking about only kegging half of it with some adjuncts in the keg, then doing the other half with different adjuncts added to the keg...
Would I be okay just adding extracts from Red Stick Spice? Just scrolling through their website, they have extracts for vanilla, cinnamon, coconut, hazelnut, espresso and chocolate. Figured at this point it would be alot less hassle to just add different flavors that way (extracts straight to the keg, then rack on top of them). Is there a less time-consuming way to get quality flavor additions? I figure the contents of those little jars would have to be sanitary and not infect my beer.
Would I be okay just adding extracts from Red Stick Spice? Just scrolling through their website, they have extracts for vanilla, cinnamon, coconut, hazelnut, espresso and chocolate. Figured at this point it would be alot less hassle to just add different flavors that way (extracts straight to the keg, then rack on top of them). Is there a less time-consuming way to get quality flavor additions? I figure the contents of those little jars would have to be sanitary and not infect my beer.
Posted on 1/3/19 at 10:16 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
Would I be okay just adding extracts from Red Stick Spice? Just scrolling through their website, they have extracts for vanilla, cinnamon, coconut, hazelnut, espresso and chocolate. Figured at this point it would be alot less hassle to just add different flavors that way (extracts straight to the keg, then rack on top of them). Is there a less time-consuming way to get quality flavor additions?
The problem you run into, is how much to add. I've used vanilla bean paste in beers before, but i'm still working on the correct qty. I will say, though, adding coffee or coconut doesn't take long to extract those flavors. You could do a cold brew coffee straight into the keg. And with the coconut, just lightly toast them with a paper towel under them in the oven. Then pat dry the oils. But in a muslin bag and place them in the keg. You'll have very noticeable coconut in a couple days.
quote:
I figure the contents of those little jars would have to be sanitary and not infect my beer.
You're safe. Usually the PH is low enough and your alcohol content is high enough to negate any infections, outside of lactic acid bacteria. And even those take time to develop, especially at such low temperatures as in a keg, that you don't have to worry about it.
Posted on 1/3/19 at 11:51 am to BugAC
quote:
You're safe. Usually the PH is low enough and your alcohol content is high enough to negate any infections, outside of lactic acid bacteria. And even those take time to develop, especially at such low temperatures as in a keg, that you don't have to worry about it.
I think those extracts are mostly alcohol anyway, aren't they?
Posted on 1/4/19 at 9:58 am to MountainTiger
My SS Brewtech Infussion Mash tun came in last night. This thing is a beast. It's heavy, at roughly 33 lbs. Very well made. Going to clean it when i get home, then test out the hot rod heat stick Saturday.


This post was edited on 1/4/19 at 10:00 am
Posted on 1/4/19 at 12:56 pm to BugAC
Sweet!
A word of advice on those ball valves. You'll need to clean them every now and then (every 6 mos. - 1 yr.). When you do, don't remove the shank that goes through the wall of the pot because it's hard to get it to seal well when you put it back in again. When you need to clean the valve, remove the bolts on the front and just take the valve apart. But don't loosen the nuts that seal the shank on the pot.
A word of advice on those ball valves. You'll need to clean them every now and then (every 6 mos. - 1 yr.). When you do, don't remove the shank that goes through the wall of the pot because it's hard to get it to seal well when you put it back in again. When you need to clean the valve, remove the bolts on the front and just take the valve apart. But don't loosen the nuts that seal the shank on the pot.
This post was edited on 1/4/19 at 2:34 pm
Posted on 1/4/19 at 3:00 pm to BugAC
quote:
First time brewing or first time brewing a stout? You doing 2 gallon batches?
First stout. I mostly brew 10 gallons. This was a 5 gallon batch.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 8:31 am to Bro Dad
Hey guys I have a few questions regarding brewing. Although I'm sure people have asked this before, please forgive me for not reading all 150 pages.
What is the best batch to make for a first timer? Beer in a box kit? What style is the hardest to mess up the first time?
I assume that buying a starter kit is a good idea, but is there anything that comes in a starter kit that would be worth upgrading off the bat? Any difference between glass carboy and fermenter bucket?
Lastly, I found someone selling a kit on CL. Is this a decent starter setup? If so, what would you offer? I already have a good size crawfish pot and burner, but it's not stainless steel. Is that a no no? Any other advice would be great
What is the best batch to make for a first timer? Beer in a box kit? What style is the hardest to mess up the first time?
I assume that buying a starter kit is a good idea, but is there anything that comes in a starter kit that would be worth upgrading off the bat? Any difference between glass carboy and fermenter bucket?
Lastly, I found someone selling a kit on CL. Is this a decent starter setup? If so, what would you offer? I already have a good size crawfish pot and burner, but it's not stainless steel. Is that a no no? Any other advice would be great
Posted on 1/7/19 at 9:32 am to puffulufogous
quote:
What is the best batch to make for a first timer? Beer in a box kit? What style is the hardest to mess up the first time?
It's usually recommended that you go with a strong-flavored beer at first so that if you mess anything up, the flavors might hide your mistake. Some people do a stout or porter for the first batch. Others choose a hoppy beer like a pale ale.
quote:
I assume that buying a starter kit is a good idea, but is there anything that comes in a starter kit that would be worth upgrading off the bat? Any difference between glass carboy and fermenter bucket?
That really depends on the starter kit. Some are pretty deluxe, others are just the basics. The carboy will last longer. The bucket will eventually get scratched up and you'll have to stop using it. (Contamination can hide in the scratches and resist the most determined attempt to remove it.)
quote:
Lastly, I found someone selling a kit on CL. Is this a decent starter setup? If so, what would you offer? I already have a good size crawfish pot and burner, but it's not stainless steel. Is that a no no? Any other advice would be great
Aluminum is fine but if you've used it for crawfish, I'm not sure I'd brew in it. That kit looks like an OK place to start, depending on what he'd take for it. The fermenter isn't big enough and I'm not sure about the pot. If the pot is too small, I'd pass. It also doesn't include stuff like brushes for cleaning.
I'd get a pot that seems way bigger than you need. Even if you do extract brews, it's a good idea to boil the full volume of wort. About the smallest you can get away with is 7.5 gallons but I'd recommend at least 10.
Get a copy of How To Brew by John Palmer and read it before you jump into anything. That will tell you everything you need to know about the process (both extract and all grain) and then you can make better decisions about what equipment you'll need.
This post was edited on 1/7/19 at 9:40 am
Posted on 1/7/19 at 11:28 am to MountainTiger
So Im reading the first edition of how to brew. Are there any of the kits that you'd recommend over others? Northern Brewer has a deluxe kit for $200 with 2 carboys and most of everything else that you'd need, minus a wort chiller,bottles, and the kettle. Decent 10g kettles run $100 or more. I'm just trying to get a feel for what the entry costs are for decent equipment.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 11:49 am to puffulufogous
quote:i started in college and about a kit that has a 5gallon bucket, 65. gal carboy, 5 gal carboy, capper, brush, bottle filler, siphon etc. I had an extra keg laying around and i cut the top off and used it. I still use it to this day but i have added a bunch of additions( site glass, valves, whirlpool tubes etc.
So Im reading the first edition of how to brew. Are there any of the kits that you'd recommend over others? Northern Brewer has a deluxe kit for $200 with 2 carboys and most of everything else that you'd need, minus a wort chiller,bottles, and the kettle. Decent 10g kettles run $100 or more. I'm just trying to get a feel for what the entry costs are for decent equipment.
you dont need a chiller when you start out, just put the top on hose the outside every few minutes until the liquid is cool enough to work with. and move it to the fermentation chamber.
I have red some people without chillers will just put a top on the pot and leave. come back hours later and continue. There is talk about the cold break and how fast you want to get to it, but there is talk about how it isnt that important.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 11:50 am to puffulufogous
quote:
Northern Brewer has a deluxe kit for $200 with 2 carboys and most of everything else that you'd need, minus a wort chiller,bottles, and the kettle.
For $40 more, More Beer has a kit that includes the kettle and chiller as well as a pale ale recipe kit. It has about everything you need (for extract) except for bottles.
LINK
This post was edited on 1/7/19 at 11:52 am
Posted on 1/7/19 at 11:53 am to MountainTiger
comes with a fermonster. thats not a bad deal with the pot and chiller.
you can buy bottles for rather cheap at lahomebrew(if you are in BR). I would call to make sure they have enough before you go. i have a ton of bottles left over from when i bottled. once you go kegging you never go back, unless you are sending beet to people. even thin i carb in a keg then fill bottles.
you can buy bottles for rather cheap at lahomebrew(if you are in BR). I would call to make sure they have enough before you go. i have a ton of bottles left over from when i bottled. once you go kegging you never go back, unless you are sending beet to people. even thin i carb in a keg then fill bottles.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 11:53 am to MountainTiger
quote:
Get a copy of How To Brew by John Palmer
He publishes it for free online, in case this hasn't already been said. It is essential reading for the beginner, and for experienced people to re-read every once in a while.
How to Brew by John Palmer
quote:
The definitive book on making quality beers at home is available here, online, in the menu to the left. Whether you want simple, sure-fire instructions for making your first beer, or you're looking to take that next step with mashing, this book has something for you. How to Brew covers the full range of brewing possibilities - accurately, clearly, and simply. This is the book that launched a thousand breweries, all over the world. It is amazing to consider, but this is quite literally, the most recommended brewing book in the world. I hope you enjoy it and my best wishes for your beers.
This version of How to Brew (1st Edition) is free. You are free to read it in its entirety, and print pages for your personal use. However, it is NOT public domain, and ALL publication rights are reserved.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 12:37 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
I have red some people without chillers will just put a top on the pot and leave. come back hours later and continue. There is talk about the cold break and how fast you want to get to it, but there is talk about how it isnt that important.
The Impact of Delaying Yeast Pitch - Brulosophy
New brulosophy article out right now discussing this sort of thing. About to read it.
On another note, i cleaned and tested out the mash tun/heat stick i got for christmas. The hot rod heatstick will heat a cold mash tun and 10 gallons of cold water to 164 degrees in about 80 minutes. I'll only need around half of that for the mash volume so my mash temps could come to temp much quicker, but may stick with this volume to ensure the entire mash tun is preheated properly.
Brewing on it this Saturday.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 12:37 pm to deeprig9
I was wondering if y'all could help me out.
I brewed a batch of an orange kolsch recently and now that they sat in the bottle a few days there seems to be some yeast sludge at the bottom. Beer is still drinkable, as long as you avoid the sludge in the poor. Still taste fine as well.
Is this just something as simple as me using to much yeast in fermentation? Or is there something else I should consider looking into. I use a basic starter kit to brew, 2 platic buckets and what not. Thanks in advance.
I brewed a batch of an orange kolsch recently and now that they sat in the bottle a few days there seems to be some yeast sludge at the bottom. Beer is still drinkable, as long as you avoid the sludge in the poor. Still taste fine as well.
Is this just something as simple as me using to much yeast in fermentation? Or is there something else I should consider looking into. I use a basic starter kit to brew, 2 platic buckets and what not. Thanks in advance.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 12:43 pm to Pnels08
quote:
Is this just something as simple as me using to much yeast in fermentation? Or is there something else I should consider looking into. I use a basic starter kit to brew, 2 platic buckets and what not. Thanks in advance.
This is common and not a problem, whatsoever. Homebrew uses live yeast and is often not filtered. That sediment in the last 1/4" of your bottle is yeast settling out of the beer. You can either drink, or not drink. It will not harm you and i doubt you notice a difference in taste.
Posted on 1/7/19 at 12:56 pm to BugAC
Good deal. That's what I figured just wanted to make sure before letting some people try it. Thanks again.
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