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Message
re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 12/19/18 at 1:55 pm to BugAC
Posted on 12/19/18 at 1:55 pm to BugAC
1.033
They didn't have the yeast you suggested so they gave me m15 dry yeast.
Didn't realize at the time that I didn't need to make a starter with dry yeast. Like I said before, I didn't even know what a starter was... So anyway I think I accidentally threw out a lot of my yeast when I tried to decant some of the work in my starter.
They didn't have the yeast you suggested so they gave me m15 dry yeast.
Didn't realize at the time that I didn't need to make a starter with dry yeast. Like I said before, I didn't even know what a starter was... So anyway I think I accidentally threw out a lot of my yeast when I tried to decant some of the work in my starter.
3
Posted on 12/19/18 at 2:30 pm to GeauxPack81
quote:
Didn't realize at the time that I didn't need to make a starter with dry yeast. Like I said before, I didn't even know what a starter was... So anyway I think I accidentally threw out a lot of my yeast when I tried to decant some of the work in my starter.
Try London Ale 3. Don't decant. I mean you can, but i don't decant for any of my beers, and for a stout, i wouldn't think 1 to 2 liters of starter wort would make a difference.
Check this list out and look for a more highly attenuative least. WLP001 and WLP005 would also be options.
LINK
This post was edited on 12/19/18 at 2:32 pm
Posted on 12/19/18 at 3:40 pm to GeauxPack81
quote:
Update on my fermentation issue. I added my starter on Friday. I had a feeling I kinda screwed it up though. Sure enough, I checked today and my gravity has hardly changed at all. Guess I'll try again to add more yeast. Not sure what else I can do to save the beer.
Adding more yeast doesn't always lower the gravity of a stalled beer. If all the fermentable sugars have been fermented, that's as low as it's going. A high mash temp may have resulted in a wort that isn't very fermentable.
quote:
I also tasted some of it while I was testing the gravity, just seemed really thin. Not sure what would have caused that other than just not a long enough boil? My OG was lower than the recipe called for.
Once it's carbonated it might be better. It shouldn't be thin with a gravity of 1.033. I would go with a very attenuative strain like WLP001, WY1054 or US-05 (dry). Those strains can ferment sugars that other ones can't so that's your best bet for reducing the gravity.
Sounds like you've already figured this out but dry yeast doesn't require a starter. In fact, I've been told that it's actually detrimental. However, it's better to re-hydrate the yeast in some warm (80-90°F) water. Dumping yeast into a medium that contains a lot of sugar or (in your case) alcohol is stressful and can result in mortality of up to 50% of the yeast cells.
Also, if you're going to decant your starter, cold crash it first for about 24 hours. This will precipitate the yeast out to the bottom of the flask and it makes it a lot easier to pour off the spent wort on the top.
This post was edited on 12/19/18 at 4:57 pm
Posted on 12/19/18 at 4:59 pm to GeauxPack81
I recently fixed a stuck fermentation by using dry champagne yeast (Lalvin EC-1118). I stalled out at 1.026 while my FG was estimated to be 1.015.
I added 100 mL of starter wort and 100 mL of the stalled beer to a sanitized mason jar, pitched the rehydrated yeast, and covered it with a piece of sanitized foil. I let that sit for about 18 hours and then pitched the jar into the stalled beer. The idea behind this process is to get the yeast acclimated to a slightly alcoholic environment while also feeding them a bit of maltose to get them active.
After two days, I had airlock activity. After five more days, the FG was down to 1.016, so I chilled it and kegged it. The beer came out just fine.
I added 100 mL of starter wort and 100 mL of the stalled beer to a sanitized mason jar, pitched the rehydrated yeast, and covered it with a piece of sanitized foil. I let that sit for about 18 hours and then pitched the jar into the stalled beer. The idea behind this process is to get the yeast acclimated to a slightly alcoholic environment while also feeding them a bit of maltose to get them active.
After two days, I had airlock activity. After five more days, the FG was down to 1.016, so I chilled it and kegged it. The beer came out just fine.
Posted on 12/20/18 at 9:09 am to MountainTiger
quote:
Adding more yeast doesn't always lower the gravity of a stalled beer. If all the fermentable sugars have been fermented, that's as low as it's going. A high mash temp may have resulted in a wort that isn't very fermentable.
That is a good point.
My thermometer showed a pretty consistent temperature in the 154 range, which was what I was looking for. However, I think I need to get a different thermometer. Not that this one doesn't show the right temperature, but I need one that goes more towards the middle of my grains where I am sure the temperature is different from where my current thermometer sits (towards the top of the mash and near the side of the pot).
I do like my BIAB set up other than that. Does anyone else do BIAB? If so, what kind of thermometer do you use? Looking for something I can just have sitting in the pot. I have a great instant read thermometer, but its not ideal for brewing.
Posted on 12/20/18 at 9:14 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
My thermometer showed a pretty consistent temperature in the 154 range, which was what I was looking for. However, I think I need to get a different thermometer. Not that this one doesn't show the right temperature, but I need one that goes more towards the middle of my grains where I am sure the temperature is different from where my current thermometer sits (towards the top of the mash and near the side of the pot).
I use multiple thermometers. I have a weber igrill that i keep in the mash tun, but also use my thermopen sporadically to ensure i'm getting an accurate reading.
Posted on 12/20/18 at 9:18 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
1.033
Even with the high mash temp and low attenuating yeast, this should have gotten down to around 1.020 or so. At least that's been my experience. Have you tried swirling the fermentor (don't shake it) to help rouse the yeast?
Posted on 12/20/18 at 9:22 am to BMoney
Yes. Once. And I think it just slightly helped.
If this latest yeast addition doesn't help it, then idk what to do. I am trying to determine if I should just scrap it and start over or go ahead and add my coffee/vanilla and bottle it to see what a 3.5% abv stout will taste like.
If this latest yeast addition doesn't help it, then idk what to do. I am trying to determine if I should just scrap it and start over or go ahead and add my coffee/vanilla and bottle it to see what a 3.5% abv stout will taste like.
Posted on 12/20/18 at 9:39 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
go ahead and add my coffee/vanilla and bottle it to see what a 3.5% abv stout will taste like.
Session stout!
Posted on 12/20/18 at 11:22 am to GeauxPack81
If the entire mash was at 154°, then that shouldn't result in a lot of unfermentable sugars. But I guess that's the question, whether the whole mash was at that temp or not. I guess with BIAB you aren't able to stir the mash to make sure everything's at the same temp, right?
Re: thermometers, I recommend that everybody should have one lab grade thermometer that you use to calibrate all the other ones.
Hopefully this next yeast addition will finish it off. If not, just call it a milk stout. :)
Bug that looks like a real nice setup.
Re: thermometers, I recommend that everybody should have one lab grade thermometer that you use to calibrate all the other ones.
Hopefully this next yeast addition will finish it off. If not, just call it a milk stout. :)
Bug that looks like a real nice setup.
This post was edited on 12/20/18 at 11:24 am
Posted on 12/20/18 at 11:47 am to MountainTiger
quote:why wouldnt you bee able to do that? the top of the bag isnt tied shut. many systems have recirc as well.
I guess with BIAB you aren't able to stir the mash to make sure everything's at the same temp, right?
Posted on 12/20/18 at 11:53 am to CarRamrod
quote:
why wouldnt you bee able to do that? the top of the bag isnt tied shut. many systems have recirc as well.
I don't know...I was asking the question because I've never done it.
Posted on 12/20/18 at 12:14 pm to MountainTiger
quote:
I guess with BIAB you aren't able to stir the mash to make sure everything's at the same temp, right?
You can, but it just makes temperature more difficult to control since I am losing heat every time I lift the lid and stir.
Posted on 12/21/18 at 8:21 am to GeauxPack81
Step 1 of my brewery upgrade has begun. Just purchased the infussion mash tun. This along with the hot rod heat stick, now allows me to heat up my strike water in the mash tun itself and simply add the grains once i get to temperature.
Next purchase, a pump, the vorlauf attachment and the sparge arm.
Question about pumps, whats the best pump to get. In terms of ease of operation and cleaning. Also, i've read you need to install valves on the pump. Could someone help explain this, as well as priming and which valves need to be opened or closed, the inflow or outflow?
Next purchase, a pump, the vorlauf attachment and the sparge arm.
Question about pumps, whats the best pump to get. In terms of ease of operation and cleaning. Also, i've read you need to install valves on the pump. Could someone help explain this, as well as priming and which valves need to be opened or closed, the inflow or outflow?
This post was edited on 12/21/18 at 8:32 am
Posted on 12/21/18 at 8:56 am to BugAC
Bug I use March 815 pumps in my system. I don't have any experience with other pumps but I've heard good things about the Chugger pumps too. I think what I'm about to say applies to any of this type of pump.
The pumps are not self-priming, they are gravity fed. That means you have to mount them low so that you can prime them by gravity before you turn them on. My procedure is to attach the intake to the tun you want to pump from and attach a hose to the exhaust side but leave the other side of that hose open. Open the valve on the tun and on the pump and let liquid drain into the open hose. Then close the valve on the pump, connect that hose to whatever you're pumping into, open the valve back up and turn on the pump.
You need a ball valve on the exhaust side of the pump. You don't need one on the intake. The pumps are magnetic impeller driven so that means you can leave the pump running with the valve closed as long as there is liquid in the impeller chamber. Never, ever, EVER let them run dry or you will hear an awful sound that you never want to hear again.
The pumps don't come with a plug on the power cord nor do they have an on/off switch. Mine is wired into my control panel so that's how I turn them on and off.
Any other questions, feel free to ask.
The pumps are not self-priming, they are gravity fed. That means you have to mount them low so that you can prime them by gravity before you turn them on. My procedure is to attach the intake to the tun you want to pump from and attach a hose to the exhaust side but leave the other side of that hose open. Open the valve on the tun and on the pump and let liquid drain into the open hose. Then close the valve on the pump, connect that hose to whatever you're pumping into, open the valve back up and turn on the pump.
You need a ball valve on the exhaust side of the pump. You don't need one on the intake. The pumps are magnetic impeller driven so that means you can leave the pump running with the valve closed as long as there is liquid in the impeller chamber. Never, ever, EVER let them run dry or you will hear an awful sound that you never want to hear again.
The pumps don't come with a plug on the power cord nor do they have an on/off switch. Mine is wired into my control panel so that's how I turn them on and off.
Any other questions, feel free to ask.
This post was edited on 12/21/18 at 9:28 am
Posted on 12/21/18 at 9:18 am to BugAC
quote:So why do you need both? you cant vorlauf and sparge with the same attachment?
Next purchase, a pump, the vorlauf attachment and the sparge arm.
quote:you can do a search and get 100 different answers. I bought a chugger pump when one of the brew sites had a sale. I also have a used march pump i saw on ebay that i havent used yet. but the pumps i use the most are the 24v cheap chinese small water pumps because of how small they are and easy to move around. LINK
Question about pumps, whats the best pump to get.
Moth of mine are broken because i ran into it and it sheared the threads. brewing and drinking........
quote:valve on the outlet of the pump to control flow. you want the pump pushing against the value, not pulling from a value as it would cause cavitation and ruin the pump.
Also, i've read you need to install valves on the pump. Could someone help explain this, as well as priming and which valves need to be opened or closed, the inflow or outflow?
Priming is just getting liquid to the pump. if it is located below the inlet source( mash tun outlet valve) you open that fist and the wort will travel and fill the pump. then you turn the pump on and it will travel to the outlet hose.
this woul dbe easy to show but harder to type out.
Posted on 12/21/18 at 9:19 am to MountainTiger
quote:my chugger did. my march did not.
The pumps don't come with a plug on the power cord n
Posted on 12/21/18 at 9:30 am to CarRamrod
quote:
valve on the outlet of the pump to control flow. you want the pump pushing against the valve, not pulling from a valve as it would cause cavitation and ruin the pump.
This is important. With the pump running, it's always OK to close a downstream valve. It's not OK to close a valve upstream of the pump.
quote:
my chugger did. my march did not.
Good to know, thanks.
This post was edited on 12/21/18 at 9:40 am
Posted on 12/21/18 at 9:44 am to CarRamrod
quote:
So why do you need both? you cant vorlauf and sparge with the same attachment?
You probably could. I'd buy the vorlauf attachment first anyway, so i'll but it to the test.
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