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Started By
Message
2
Posted on 12/15/18 at 10:54 am to BigDropper
I did 68F my last batch with it. I did not make a starter and it took a little bit to get going but turned out okay.
Posted on 12/15/18 at 10:57 am to BigDropper
quote:
Quick ?... what temp should I ferment @ with US-05?
It’s not necessary but it’s recommended to rehydrate dried yeast first. But, that being said, 68-70 is good.
Posted on 12/15/18 at 11:04 am to BottomlandBrew
quote:how is this so much more efficient. I mean i have a homemade immersion from 100 feet of 3/8" jockey box though it is SS and not copper... i dont see how it reduces heat so much quicker. mine works fast for 5gal, but not for 10. I do have a theory that the keggles i used retain a lot of heat in the bottom lips. but i used the runoff to bring that down from read hot. Maybe an E system will eliminate that and my chiller will be better.... being in LA i want to set up a pre chiller but i want an ice machine before i do that.
hydra immersion chiller
but it think i have come to the conclusion on what i want to do.
I want o build 2 pots. a 10-12 gallon pot to do 5 gallon batches and a 30gallon pot to do 10-20 gallon batches.
i want to build a controller with 2 EZBrews that i can use a single one or use 2 and brew a 5 gallon batch and a 10 gallon batch at the same time. a 5500 watt element can do more but it will just take longer. So if i want to do a single 10-20 gallon batch i would like to be able to put both elements on the big pot to quicken that session.
Ill have to look at if just running them with 2 probes would work, and shut one off when i reach boil, or if i would have to do something special. Like a single unit could control both elements. Ill need to bring that up on the forums specific to the e brewery panels.
Posted on 12/15/18 at 11:09 am to BugAC
quote:it isnt difficult. it is just rather complicated. and cable management is a real thing. Very hard to do to make it look good.
So I have a question, is wiring and setting up a control panel relatively easy? It seems a lot of Homebrewers DIY their own, and the thought of electrically wiring equipment seems dangerous.
Or is it relatively simple once you do some reading and the risk of setting your house on fire is pretty low?
i have a copy of the electric brewery i can send you if you want to read his step by step.
This post was edited on 12/15/18 at 11:10 am
Posted on 12/15/18 at 11:11 am to USEyourCURDS
Thanks Curds.
I'm gonna hit you up as soon as I get my hands on something releasing soon!
I'm gonna hit you up as soon as I get my hands on something releasing soon!
Posted on 12/15/18 at 11:19 am to CarRamrod
quote:
i have a copy of the electric brewery i can send you if you want to read his step by step.
Sure. What are the chances I set my house on fire or electrocute myself?
Posted on 12/15/18 at 12:00 pm to BugAC
quote:
chances I set my house on fire or electrocute myself?
Not sure but so far this thing is s beast. 10 minutes from termination of fly sparge to hot break. Just pitched my 60 cascades & this riom smells like Fruity Pebbles...
Posted on 12/15/18 at 2:03 pm to BugAC
Hey Bug, whats the prefered pitching temp?
Posted on 12/15/18 at 2:08 pm to BugAC
Shoot me an email.
Posted on 12/15/18 at 4:29 pm to CarRamrod
Does anyone know what yeasts are used to brew the juicy hoppy beers like parish envie?
Posted on 12/16/18 at 11:10 am to WaWaWeeWa
London 3, or Vermont IPA. I've used London 3 the most.
But you need some oats in your grist, and you need a boitrans hop addition.
But you need some oats in your grist, and you need a boitrans hop addition.
This post was edited on 12/16/18 at 11:12 am
Posted on 12/16/18 at 12:44 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
boitrans
One little typo changes the entire meaning.Posted on 12/16/18 at 2:24 pm to Zappas Stache
Lol
Posted on 12/16/18 at 9:31 pm to CarRamrod
Thanks.
Has anyone been able to make something close to the juicy IPAs that are so popular right now?
Has anyone been able to make something close to the juicy IPAs that are so popular right now?
Posted on 12/16/18 at 10:03 pm to WaWaWeeWa
Yes, just get your biotransformation hop additions timed correctly. Google that if you don't know what it is. Use the correct hops such as Mosaic, Galaxy and Citra and the right yeast such as London Ale III.
Posted on 12/17/18 at 7:34 am to WaWaWeeWa
Water chemistry is also very important for this style. Make sure you have the proper brewing salts added.
These links are very helpful in understanding the style and how to brew them.
Chasing Mouthfeel Softness
Researching New England IPA Haze
These links are very helpful in understanding the style and how to brew them.
Chasing Mouthfeel Softness
Researching New England IPA Haze
Posted on 12/17/18 at 8:58 am to WaWaWeeWa
+1 to both ZappasStache and BugAC
I have had great success following those guidelines. There are a ton of fun hops to play around with, obviously staying in the stone fruit, citrus, tropical realm is going to get you closer to much of the great commercial stuff you’re used to. I think Galaxy/Citra is the most foolproof way to go with many others like Amarillo/Mosaic/Simcoe/Denali/Equanot/El Dorado/Vic Secret/Nelson Sauvin/et al giving more diverse flavor & aroma additions that fit the style nicely.
I’m partial to the Conan yeast strains, but that’s obviously my opinion. I’ve had many Homebrew and Commercial NEIPA’s brewed with London Ale III to great success. The difference is subtle if brewed/fermented/dry hopped correctly.
The water profile is a big part of this style with Chloride content being the most important. You’ll read about Chloride/Sulfate ratios ranging from 1:1 all the way to 3:1 and beyond. I’ve found around 150 ppm Chloride and about 80 ppm Sulfate is a good range for giving you the desired smoothness on the mouthfeel from the Chloride while still having enough Sulfate to accentuate all the wonderful hops you’re using.
Something many people seem to overlook with this style is avoiding too low of a mash temp. If you mash in the 148-149 area, you’re very likely going to get a thinner beer. I tend to stay in the 152-154 range for this style as it allows for some larger chain unfermentables that will aid in body/sweetness.
Lastly is the flakes adjunct grain content. This is going to really aid in upping the body/mouthfeel and even some perceived sweetness/creaminess. I like using 10-30% flaked oats/flaked or white wheat. Generally the 20% range is a nice, safe area that you’ll get enough of that body without assuring a stuck mash. Make sure to get rice hulls for your grain bill if using flaked adjuncts as the higher beta glucan content makes for a gummy mash that can easily get stuck if using a false bottom/lautering.
I have had great success following those guidelines. There are a ton of fun hops to play around with, obviously staying in the stone fruit, citrus, tropical realm is going to get you closer to much of the great commercial stuff you’re used to. I think Galaxy/Citra is the most foolproof way to go with many others like Amarillo/Mosaic/Simcoe/Denali/Equanot/El Dorado/Vic Secret/Nelson Sauvin/et al giving more diverse flavor & aroma additions that fit the style nicely.
I’m partial to the Conan yeast strains, but that’s obviously my opinion. I’ve had many Homebrew and Commercial NEIPA’s brewed with London Ale III to great success. The difference is subtle if brewed/fermented/dry hopped correctly.
The water profile is a big part of this style with Chloride content being the most important. You’ll read about Chloride/Sulfate ratios ranging from 1:1 all the way to 3:1 and beyond. I’ve found around 150 ppm Chloride and about 80 ppm Sulfate is a good range for giving you the desired smoothness on the mouthfeel from the Chloride while still having enough Sulfate to accentuate all the wonderful hops you’re using.
Something many people seem to overlook with this style is avoiding too low of a mash temp. If you mash in the 148-149 area, you’re very likely going to get a thinner beer. I tend to stay in the 152-154 range for this style as it allows for some larger chain unfermentables that will aid in body/sweetness.
Lastly is the flakes adjunct grain content. This is going to really aid in upping the body/mouthfeel and even some perceived sweetness/creaminess. I like using 10-30% flaked oats/flaked or white wheat. Generally the 20% range is a nice, safe area that you’ll get enough of that body without assuring a stuck mash. Make sure to get rice hulls for your grain bill if using flaked adjuncts as the higher beta glucan content makes for a gummy mash that can easily get stuck if using a false bottom/lautering.
Posted on 12/17/18 at 9:23 am to The Estimator
quote:
The Estimator
Spot on. I've been playing around with my NEIPA because i don't care for the overly chewy ones. I find many, including some Parish NEIPA's, are so chewy they mute the hops. So, for my liking, i usually do a 1:1 ratio. I typically use London Ale 3, but i've worked with several varieties. I think my favorite, so far, is bootleg biology's chardonnay yeast. LINK
I try to mash around 150-152. I want my FG to be 1.016-1.018. I find that the process of adding the biotrans hops tends to prevent the yeast from fully attenuating, and anything above 152, leaves me with too high of a FG for my liking.
And to the adjunct grain content, i've been reducing this amount to anywhere from 5 to 9% of the grist. I think i started at 15% when i first started, but again, i don't care for an overly full mouthfeel. I find if the beer is slightly thinner, you will get more fruity flavors out of it.
Here's my NEIPA recipe.
The Hopnotoad
1:1 chloride/sulfate ratio with Baton Rouge water to start
65% - 2 row
27% - Golden Promise
5% - Flaked Oats
3% - Carafoam/carapils
Mash at 152 for 1 hour
London Ale 3 or other yeast with starter. I've read that WLP644 Sach Brux Trois, does really well with accentuating the fruitiness. Also helps that the fermenting temp for WLP644 is 70-85, so higher temps, more fruit.
Hops variety can be interchangeable. My favorite combo has been galaxy/citra/azacca. Though my last batch, i ran out of galaxy and substituted Mosaic.
30 IBU charge of boil hops (Magnum)
4.75 oz. of Whirlpool hops at 170 degrees
3.75 oz. of biotrans hops (14 days)
3.5 oz. of dry hops @ 7 days
3 oz. dry hops at 3 days
This post was edited on 12/17/18 at 9:24 am
Posted on 12/17/18 at 10:19 am to BugAC
All great stuff.
I made my first Brut a couple months ago and used a 1:1 ratio. Lalvin EC-1118 Yeast in the secondary with some macerated white table grapes. Ekuanot Cryo Hops and regular Nelson used during biotransformation with Nelson and Hallertau Blanc in whirlpool. Came out great.
Man, I’m with you on the overly sweet ones. It feels like all the commercial ones are either getting sweeter or my palate is shifting to the drier side. Alex over at Miel has a Brut Pale he just made that is ridiculously crushable (4 pints in about 1.5 hours crushable). In contrast, I can’t have more than 1 pint of all the local NEIPA’s now. Urban South’s LA Brut is one of my favorite beers I’ve had in a long time because you can tell it’s pretty much just Holy Roller with the amyloglucosidase (or any of the other enzymes) and a higher attenuating yeast. So much more drinkable.
I think that the NEIPA will obviously be a lasting style but I think it’s demand is going to transition to the drier Brut style dry-hopped Pales/IPAs. They’re also ridiculously more cost effective because with the lower FG added to a higher Sulfate ratio, you can use like half the hops of a NEIPA.
Once we throw the Kveik yeasts into the party, we’re going to get some cheap, easy, and delicious hoppy beers coming out in 2019.
I made my first Brut a couple months ago and used a 1:1 ratio. Lalvin EC-1118 Yeast in the secondary with some macerated white table grapes. Ekuanot Cryo Hops and regular Nelson used during biotransformation with Nelson and Hallertau Blanc in whirlpool. Came out great.
Man, I’m with you on the overly sweet ones. It feels like all the commercial ones are either getting sweeter or my palate is shifting to the drier side. Alex over at Miel has a Brut Pale he just made that is ridiculously crushable (4 pints in about 1.5 hours crushable
). In contrast, I can’t have more than 1 pint of all the local NEIPA’s now. Urban South’s LA Brut is one of my favorite beers I’ve had in a long time because you can tell it’s pretty much just Holy Roller with the amyloglucosidase (or any of the other enzymes) and a higher attenuating yeast. So much more drinkable. I think that the NEIPA will obviously be a lasting style but I think it’s demand is going to transition to the drier Brut style dry-hopped Pales/IPAs. They’re also ridiculously more cost effective because with the lower FG added to a higher Sulfate ratio, you can use like half the hops of a NEIPA.
Once we throw the Kveik yeasts into the party, we’re going to get some cheap, easy, and delicious hoppy beers coming out in 2019.
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