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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 10/16/13 at 6:37 pm to BottomlandBrew
Posted on 10/16/13 at 6:37 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
BottomlandBrew
Got the package

I picked up stuff for a hoppy wheat. I've got 3 oz Citra and 2 oz Galaxy and going to use some harvested cali ale yeast.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 6:40 pm to rds dc
Glad all the soldiers survived their march. 

Posted on 10/16/13 at 6:42 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
Glad all the soldiers survived their march.
That was some high quality packing. I'll be sending that same box and packing supplies back your way.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 6:46 pm to rds dc
I used to load trucks at UPS in college. I know what those boxes go through. Best believe I double wrap it. 

Posted on 10/16/13 at 9:49 pm to rds dc
quote:
Does that come with Conan or is that not available from the labs yet?
Nope. They haven't been able to get that yeast strain yet, so I know mine won't be the same. But the hop schedule looks pretty good. We shall see how it turns out.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 9:59 pm to rds dc
quote:
Does that come with Conan or is that not available from the labs yet?
What are some characteristics of Conan? If I was brewing a DIPA soon I'd try that San Diego super strain or whatever it's called.
Posted on 10/18/13 at 8:30 am to s14suspense
Question about using Kegs as mash tuns/boil kettles/sparge tanks, etc...
Currently, my brew system is 2 - 10 gallons water coolers and a 9.5 gallon stainless brew kettle for 5.5/6 gallon batches.
I have 1 keg with the top already cut off, another that i need to do work on, and i have a slim quarter keg, that i'd have to work on also. Next year, i plan on using a whole new brewing setup, so i'm wondering a few things.
1) The slim quarter keg, comes out to be about 8 gallons. Is this plenty enough room to use as a sparge tank for 10 gallon batches?
2) Unlike the cooler system, where i get my temps to a certain level, and then close the lid and wait for an hour, i'm assuming with a keg setup as a mash tun, you have to keep the burner on to keep the mash at a certain temp. (correct me if i'm wrong). Does this constant heat a) Scorch my grains? b) Increase the evaporation rate of the mash water?
3) Also, with moving to this kind of setup, i'd need to get a pump (or 2 if my brew rack doesn't have an elevated sparge area). I see the march 815 pump on homebrew sites. What other equipment would i need with the pump? Hoses? Also, with the pumps, can you control how fast you pump out your wort?
Currently, my brew system is 2 - 10 gallons water coolers and a 9.5 gallon stainless brew kettle for 5.5/6 gallon batches.
I have 1 keg with the top already cut off, another that i need to do work on, and i have a slim quarter keg, that i'd have to work on also. Next year, i plan on using a whole new brewing setup, so i'm wondering a few things.
1) The slim quarter keg, comes out to be about 8 gallons. Is this plenty enough room to use as a sparge tank for 10 gallon batches?
2) Unlike the cooler system, where i get my temps to a certain level, and then close the lid and wait for an hour, i'm assuming with a keg setup as a mash tun, you have to keep the burner on to keep the mash at a certain temp. (correct me if i'm wrong). Does this constant heat a) Scorch my grains? b) Increase the evaporation rate of the mash water?
3) Also, with moving to this kind of setup, i'd need to get a pump (or 2 if my brew rack doesn't have an elevated sparge area). I see the march 815 pump on homebrew sites. What other equipment would i need with the pump? Hoses? Also, with the pumps, can you control how fast you pump out your wort?
This post was edited on 10/18/13 at 8:34 am
Posted on 10/18/13 at 8:58 am to BugAC
looks like I'm going to brew next Sunday, and I think I am going to go with the breakfast stout recipe to hold me over through the winter months.
I'm planning on using lactose, but never have before. Have any of y'all used it? When do I need to add it?
I'm planning on using lactose, but never have before. Have any of y'all used it? When do I need to add it?
Posted on 10/18/13 at 9:22 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I'm planning on using lactose, but never have before. Have any of y'all used it? When do I need to add it?
If you are all-grain, i'd assume it acts like oatmeal, and you'd add it at the mash. However, i've never used it, so don't quote me on it.
Posted on 10/18/13 at 9:23 am to BugAC
Follow up to my keggle/pump question.
How difficult is it to clean out the pump lines? Couldn't i just boil some water once the brewing is finished and pump it through to kill any bacteria/residue, etc...?
How difficult is it to clean out the pump lines? Couldn't i just boil some water once the brewing is finished and pump it through to kill any bacteria/residue, etc...?
Posted on 10/18/13 at 9:23 am to BugAC
Was going to take today off and brew, but a client needs stuff "now now now." 

Posted on 10/18/13 at 9:44 am to BugAC
quote:
If you are all-grain, i'd assume it acts like oatmeal, and you'd add it at the mash. However, i've never used it, so don't quote me on it.
it's a dry sugar, so I am going to throw it in at the beginning of the boil like I have done with maltodextrine
what is a good amount of cocoa nibs in the secondary of a 5 gallon batch?
This post was edited on 10/18/13 at 9:57 am
Posted on 10/18/13 at 10:11 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
what is a good amount of cocoa nibs in the secondary of a 5 gallon batch?
I want to say we used 8oz in out BB chocolate porter. For about 2-3 weeks.
And Bug. Yes to clean all of the pumps and hoses and chillers out afterwards you can recirculate hot PBW through the system.
I'd reccomend going to a brew day at someone's house that has a similar system. Hard to describe otherwise.
Don't think there's too many people that direct fire their mash tun. I think they use a HERMS or a RIMS.
ETA: This link better describes what I'm referring to.
LINK
This post was edited on 10/18/13 at 10:19 am
Posted on 10/18/13 at 10:16 am to s14suspense
thanks. did you sanitize them in any way or throw them in?
I'm all about "more is better" when it come to making and drinking beer

I'm all about "more is better" when it come to making and drinking beer

This post was edited on 10/18/13 at 10:20 am
Posted on 10/18/13 at 11:11 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I'm all about "more is better" when it come to making and drinking beer
We come from the same school of thought.
Posted on 10/18/13 at 11:17 am to BMoney
quote:
We come from the same school of thought.
literally

Posted on 10/18/13 at 12:01 pm to BugAC
quote:
1) The slim quarter keg, comes out to be about 8 gallons. Is this plenty enough room to use as a sparge tank for 10 gallon batches?
That's going to be cutting it close if you're going to batch sparge unless you can split up the sparge. I've only done 5 gal batches, but I've had sparge volumes nearing 4.5-5gals for a 90 mins boil. I would be worried about a high gravity beer with a large grain bill needing 8+ gals of sparge water. Remember, an 8gal container doesn't mean you can fill it completely and still work with it.
quote:
Does this constant heat a) Scorch my grains?
If your grains are resting on the bottom, probably yes. You'd be best off with a false bottom, and preferably a pump to circulate the liquid, otherwise the bottom grains will get much hotter than the top, possibly too hot. A lot of guys use kegs and wrap them with blankets to keep them warm. Works pretty well in the summer months.
Posted on 10/18/13 at 4:23 pm to Boudreaux35
Could someone explain a RIMS system to me? How it works?
This seems like the one i want to build. I just don't understand a few things. What i've beer reading talks about recirculation, and it talks about heating your recirculated wort in the tubing.
1) If i'm recirculating my mash, won't the grains clog up my pump pretty frequently? Or am i supposed to only recirculate the wort while it mashes.
2) How does it maintain heat? If the point of a RIMS is to avoid scorching your grains/wort via direct fire, then this must mean that you are not heating up your mash tun once you have your initial mash water heated. Does this mean there is a secondary heat source that heats the pumped wort in the tubing? If so, is this some sort of electric source?
This seems like the one i want to build. I just don't understand a few things. What i've beer reading talks about recirculation, and it talks about heating your recirculated wort in the tubing.
1) If i'm recirculating my mash, won't the grains clog up my pump pretty frequently? Or am i supposed to only recirculate the wort while it mashes.
2) How does it maintain heat? If the point of a RIMS is to avoid scorching your grains/wort via direct fire, then this must mean that you are not heating up your mash tun once you have your initial mash water heated. Does this mean there is a secondary heat source that heats the pumped wort in the tubing? If so, is this some sort of electric source?
Posted on 10/18/13 at 8:18 pm to s14suspense
quote:
What are some characteristics of Conan?
I haven't brewed with it but have seen it mentioned that attenuation is typically around 80%, flocculation is pretty poor, and it produces tropical like esters and sometimes clove. It also seems to be pretty aggressive and ferments fast.
Posted on 10/18/13 at 8:24 pm to rds dc
quote:
I picked up stuff for a hoppy wheat. I've got 3 oz Citra and 2 oz Galaxy and going to use some harvested cali ale yeast.
I was going to do this with cali ale yeast but have changed my mind and am going to use my Crooked Stave brett. I'm going to go 152ish for 60 min, 30 min boil, all late hops, probably 10, 5, 0, then another addition at 180 F, pitch 100% brett stater, then two rounds of dry hopping.
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