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Message
1
Posted on 10/8/13 at 2:28 pm to BMoney
I don't always brew farmhouse ales. I mean come on, I brewed one non-farmhouse this year. 
ETA: Actually two if you count my brett pale ale.
ETA: Actually two if you count my brett pale ale.
This post was edited on 10/8/13 at 2:30 pm
Posted on 10/8/13 at 2:42 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
don't always brew farmhouse ales. I mean come on, I brewed one non-farmhouse this year.
ETA: Actually two if you count my brett pale ale.
Oh yeah, forgot about adding brett to a beer.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 2:43 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
next thing we know you will be dumping a shitload of citra into an ipa
Hey now, my last 3 brews have been a brown ale, an imperial stout and a pumpkin porter. Well, I do have a session IPA in the fermenter. But I do more than hopped up IPAs.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 2:50 pm to BMoney
quote:
Hey now, my last 3 brews have been a brown ale, an imperial stout and a pumpkin porter. Well, I do have a session IPA in the fermenter. But I do more than hopped up IPAs.
sounds like you need to make another citra ipa then
hey Bug, when you made the AHS oaked bourbon stout, how long after bottling until it "hit its prime"?
I opened one of mine last night, but it's only been bottled 6 weeks and it's still a bit harsh. I think that it should mellow out a little more and get right.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 3:09 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
How did you decide to start a lambic "colony"? I am interested in starting a lambic but not really sure how to go about doing it. I guess I should read up on brewing some, and maybe doing some open fermentations outside.
I've always been interested in "wild" ales and brewing this type of stuff is what got me back into brewing. I have been doing open fermentation but that is not the same as spontaneous fermentation. I still get yeast, build a starter, toss in cooled wort, etc. I don't open things up until there is vigorous fermentation.
I'm doing a solera for this lambic because I don't have room for multiple barrels. I pulled 5 gallons of brew out of the barrel today for dry hopping and transferred 6+ gallons in. I started that new batch with the Wyeast lambic blend to build a nice base of bugs. I plan to add the dregs from some sour beers as things go along and see what happens.
Typically you wouldn't want to mess with a barrel for a year or more. However, this one is smaller (only 15 gallons) and plastic. Plastic is more oxygen permeable than oak barrels but there seems to be a lot of disagreement on how much. This means that this barrel, in theory, should sour faster than an oak barrel.
Check out Wild Ales by Sparrow and the Mad Fermentationist blog.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 3:24 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
Feel free to critique. I'm in personally uncharted waters as far as this recipe goes.
I always like to add in some oats. They are cheap, help with head retention and mouth feel.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 3:29 pm to BMoney
But in all honesty, I love a lot of the flavors you get from what are considered farmhouse ales. Brewing them is fun because they can be anywhere from really rough around the edges to super delicate. As a bonus, most good farmhouse ales are more than $10 each, most $15 and up. I'd go broke buying those. Not like most other beers where I can get a 6er or bomber of good beer for $10 or less.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 3:30 pm to rds dc
quote:
I always like to add in some oats.
You right. We talked about that and I forgot.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 3:38 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
As a bonus, most good farmhouse ales are more than $10 each, most $15 and up. I'd go broke buying those.
This and a lot of American brewed farmhouse ales are too syrupy for me. I prefer mine to be really dried out.
Posted on 10/8/13 at 3:43 pm to rds dc
this may be a silly question, but what exactly makes a beer these days a "farmhouse" beer? How would you define a farmhouse beer?
This post was edited on 10/8/13 at 3:51 pm
Posted on 10/8/13 at 5:00 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
define a farmhouse beer
There isn't really a strict definition. It's not like some beer styles that are rigid. Farmhouse is sort of an umbrella term for a many number of beers that are typical of northern France/Southern Belgium. Under the farmhouse umbrella you have a couple styles that are somewhat defined and start to lay the framework, while some are completely undefinable.
Saison and Biere de Garde are the two styles most associated with farmhouse ales. Some beers stick really close to those two style guidelines, while other modern farmhouse beers take the bases for those two styles and go off in some wild directions.
yeast is highly variable, but should always make itself known. it's not a style where you want a neutral strain. You want something that is a workhorse at varying temperatures and can throw off some flavor.
Liberal use of non-traditional ingredients are also a common trait among farmhouse beers, but certainly not the only style to use exotic ingredients such as spices, fruits, and flowers.
Posted on 10/9/13 at 8:34 am to rds dc
Thanks to everyone for the pale ale thoughts but it looks like I will be able to get in one more saison before it cools off. I'm going to do a really simple one today and should be able to keep my garage warm enough over the next few days to knock out the primary fermentation. I'll then move it inside, cool it down and add some brett.
I'm going to go:
70% 2-row
15% Oats
10% Acid Malt
5% Cane Sugar
Citra to about 25 IBU and then dry hop with 1 oz Mosaic. I also have .5 oz of Willamette that I need to use, so I might toss those in at flame out.
I'm going to go:
70% 2-row
15% Oats
10% Acid Malt
5% Cane Sugar
Citra to about 25 IBU and then dry hop with 1 oz Mosaic. I also have .5 oz of Willamette that I need to use, so I might toss those in at flame out.
Posted on 10/9/13 at 8:51 am to BottomlandBrew
quote:
But in all honesty, I love a lot of the flavors you get from what are considered farmhouse ales. Brewing them is fun because they can be anywhere from really rough around the edges to super delicate. As a bonus, most good farmhouse ales are more than $10 each, most $15 and up. I'd go broke buying those. Not like most other beers where I can get a 6er or bomber of good beer for $10 or less.
Makes sense. I like the occasional farmhouse ale, but I don't love them. Especially not enough to make 5 gallons worth to have on tap. But everybody likes what they like.
Posted on 10/9/13 at 9:01 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
hey Bug, when you made the AHS oaked bourbon stout, how long after bottling until it "hit its prime"?
Probably about 4/5 months or so. I don't really know, because i still have some left, and i crack one open from time to time. Really just been waiting on the winter to start drinking them again. But it is very smooth now.
This post was edited on 10/9/13 at 9:07 am
Posted on 10/9/13 at 4:53 pm to rds dc
Got that brew in today but ended up only having time for a 30 min boil. Still not bad for just under 3 hours from pulling 1st pot out to finishing clean up and kicking up a starter.
Posted on 10/9/13 at 4:56 pm to rds dc
quote:
Got that brew in today but ended up only having time for a 30 min boil. Still not bad for just under 3 hours from pulling 1st pot out to finishing clean up and kicking up a starter.
3 hours for an all-grain? Are you a wizard?
and does anyone else believe we need to sticky this thread? I've been trying but the admins are ignoring me, i believe.
Posted on 10/9/13 at 5:17 pm to BugAC
quote:
3 hours for an all-grain? Are you a wizard?
BIAB, no chill, and no drinking helps speed things along. I still need to transfer my wort to a fermenter tomorrow morning.
Posted on 10/9/13 at 5:23 pm to rds dc
quote:
and no drinking helps
This post was edited on 10/9/13 at 5:23 pm
Posted on 10/9/13 at 5:35 pm to BugAC
quote:
and does anyone else believe we need to sticky this thread? I've been trying but the admins are ignoring me, i believe.
:homebrew board:
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