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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread

Posted on 3/22/16 at 12:26 pm to
Posted by BeerMoney
Baton Rouge
Member since Jul 2012
8702 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 12:26 pm to
I've done 100% munich pales in the past. They were very good but I'd prefer it as a base in an American Amber. Every bock I've ever made was 80%+ munich. If you like melanoidin, bready malty with some mild nuttiness. Finish is mild biscuit to me. It's pretty distinctive after you've tasted it alone in a beer.
Posted by Canuck Tiger
Member since Sep 2010
1763 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 1:30 pm to
I'm not LoneStarTiger, but classical souring (as in lambics or your sour) happens over many months (mostly after primary fermentation) with some combination of lactobacillus and pediococcus bacteria (I think this strain does most of the souring since there are hops in lambics). If Pedio is used then you also need brett to eat the diacetyl it produces. Bacteria are inoculated usually from open air in the brewery but also from barrels that the beer is aged in and are far more aggressive than any commercial pure culture.

Fast souring involves using lactobacillus into either the mash grain (sour mash) or after a boil of the wort (kettle souring) prior to adding yeast for fermentation. This gets good acidity and sourness after a much shorter time frame, but it does require you to be able to hold fermentation temperature at ~90F for a couple days to let the lactobacillus do work. It also means your wort is going to have to ferment under conditions that sacch. yeast strains really don't perform well under.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:08 pm to
quote:

Fast souring involves using lactobacillus into either the mash grain (sour mash) or after a boil of the wort (kettle souring) prior to adding yeast for fermentation. This gets good acidity and sourness after a much shorter time frame, but it does require you to be able to hold fermentation temperature at ~90F for a couple days to let the lactobacillus do work. It also means your wort is going to have to ferment under conditions that sacch. yeast strains really don't perform well under.


Well, everything i'm reading in that article LINK kind of argues against kettle souring, unless you have the means to maintain the temps and keep oxygen out. Can't guarantee that with my kettle. From what i gathered from the article, (which i could be wrong) is that a standard wort production and pitching the right amount of lacto and maintain it at the correct temps would lead to a more reliable sour beer.

Something about temps could produce colustrum or botulism. Not sure.

Anyway, i was also reading on the milk the funk wiki on the lacto strain i used.

quote:

Wyeast on 5335 The following is an excerpt with Jess Caudill, Brewer/Microbiologist, at Wyeast Laboratories, Inc. concerning usage of Wyeast 5335 and making a Berliner Weissbier. Use 5335. If using our 5335, don’t use ANY hops. You can always blend in some IPA or hopped wort after souring takes place if you really need some bitterness or hop flavor/aroma in the beer. From one 5335 pack, make a 1L starter with 1.020 DME sterile wort. No O2! Incubate at 90°F if possible for 5-7 days. Brew your 5 gallons of wort. Again… no hops. Sterilize the wort. (No need for sour mashes). Cool to 90°F and add 1L 5335 starter. No O2. Try to maintain 90°F for 5-7 days depending on how sour you want the beer. After 5-7 days, cool wort to around 68. Pitch with a low pH tolerant strain such as 1007 or 2124. No O2. Ferment for around 1-2 weeks… until you hit terminal. Package beer. If bottle conditioning, use 4021 as a bottling strains. Very tolerant to low pH.


I did none of that. My hops were at 3.8 IBU's, and i pitched the sach, lacto, and brett all at teh same time, along with a 1 Liter starter of bottle dregs. It's been fermenting at 72 degrees. This beer wasn't meant to be a fast soured beer, so i'm hoping just giving it time to do its thing will produce a good beer. I have been wondering if i need to maybe pitch a starter of another lacto, however.

For my next sour batch, i think i will use the method in that article. Produce wort, make a starter for the lacto. Dump starter in and keep the temps around 86-90 for a few days. Build a brett starter. Then pitch the sach and brett together and let it go and see how that works.

And then for my gose, use the process on the chart (1 page back, and in the link). I interpret that diagram that i
1) brew as normal.
2) No or minimal hops.
3) Then add phosphoric or lactic acid to give me a wort ph of 4.5.
4) Pitch lacto from starter using a carboy.
5) Maintain the lacto temp using my fermwrap if needed.
6) Cool to sach temps and pitch sach yeast and oxygenate (i use the shake the shite out of it method)
7) bottle/keg or transfer to secondary and add brett.

I know this is a long post and is all over the place, however seeing as Sour brewing is a relatively new process, a lot of the information i've read 6 months ago, to now is different.


ETA: Actually its discouraging the no boil souring method, not the kettle souring. My mistake.
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 2:12 pm
Posted by BottomlandBrew
Member since Aug 2010
28412 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:15 pm to
quote:

that article kind of argues against kettle souring, unless you have the means to maintain the temps


Use Omega Lacto blend and an unhopped wort. No need to control temperature. Pitch at 90 and let it ride down with no control. You will have appreciable sourness in 24 hours.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:24 pm to
quote:


Use Omega Lacto blend and an unhopped wort. No need to control temperature. Pitch at 90 and let it ride down with no control. You will have appreciable sourness in 24 hours.



No starters are anything? What about wort OG? I've read anything under 1.050 is preferable.

Also, seperate question, what stops the ph from going down too low? I would like my current sour to be in the 3.6 to 3.8 range. If i measure my wort ph and its in that range, how do i stop it from getting more acidic? Do i simply cold crash and bottle/keg?
Posted by Fratastic423
Baton Rouge
Member since Feb 2007
5990 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:29 pm to
For the sour I brewed last week I used the brew, pitch lacto, wait, then pitch yeast (in my case Brett) method. I bought the GigaYeast Lacto blend for 10.99. The WLP lacto has an extremely low cell count for the 6.99 price tag, and the Wyeast is 10.99 for half the cell count of the Gigayeast blend. Seemed like a no brainer to use the gigayeast with no starter.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:35 pm to
quote:


For the sour I brewed last week I used the brew, pitch lacto, wait, then pitch yeast (in my case Brett) method. I bought the GigaYeast Lacto blend for 10.99. The WLP lacto has an extremely low cell count for the 6.99 price tag, and the Wyeast is 10.99 for half the cell count of the Gigayeast blend. Seemed like a no brainer to use the gigayeast with no starter.


Would you recommend grabbing a pack of that giga lacto blend and pouring it into the fermenter, or just waiting and see what happens? FWIW, i don't even have a ph meter yet, and need to get one before i do anything. Just wondering what my steps should be or should i just be patient and ride it out. I've had every intention of "sit and forget" with this batch and just be patient, but if i can help out my brew in anyway for $10 and it might give me a quicker brew, i'll do it.

Posted by Fratastic423
Baton Rouge
Member since Feb 2007
5990 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:36 pm to
quote:

ould you recommend grabbing a pack of that giga lacto blend and pouring it into the fermenter, or just waiting and see what happens?


God no, just be patient and let it ride. it will all work out in the end.
Posted by BottomlandBrew
Member since Aug 2010
28412 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:41 pm to
quote:

No starters are anything?


1000 ml starter.

quote:

What about wort OG


My last one was 1.050 and it went fine.

quote:

how do i stop it from getting more acidic


If you're wanting to stop it in the 3.8-3.6 range, you're going to have to boil or campden tablet it. Otherwise it'll keep going until it kills itself in the lower 3's.
Posted by Canuck Tiger
Member since Sep 2010
1763 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:44 pm to
Yea I can't get that variety of yeast easily in Canada, so I went with WY5335 and made a big starter. I just followed the Wyeast quotes that were pasted above exactly. The ability to pitch at 90 and then let it cool overnight while it sours would be very attractive if I had access to gigayeast though.

I soured the wort in a sanitized keg at 95F using an aquarium heater and my igloo mash tun, and then transferred with a picnic tap after 5 days into a carboy for fermentation. The lactic acid production generated enough CO2 to do the transfer without hooking up my gas line.

I then easily harvested the entire lacto culture for next time (should get more aggressive after repeated use I hope).

//edit: For your sour that has lacto and brett and sacch and bottle dregs, you're just gonna have to let it ride. I'd be more worried about it not properly souring rather than it getting TOO sour. It's probably a year from done right now and there's not much you can do other than let it ride in a dark place and make sure the airlock doesn't run dry.
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 2:47 pm
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:47 pm to
quote:


God no, just be patient and let it ride. it will all work out in the end.




Well y'all know how i am. The "pitch everything at once" suggestion was giving to me by the milk the funk guys, so i went with it. But i like to control as much of the final product as i can. And after making starters for all of my sach fermentations, not making a starter and just pitching out the vial seemed strange to me. But i'll set it and forget it. I need to attach my fermwrap, however. Temps in the garage have dropped this week to 67. So i'll bring it back up to around 74,
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:51 pm to
quote:


If you're wanting to stop it in the 3.8-3.6 range, you're going to have to boil or campden tablet it. Otherwise it'll keep going until it kills itself in the lower 3's.




Wow. Even if you've already pitched your sach and brett? What your suggesting is basically pasteurizing the wort, correct? and Campden, never used those before. How would you use it in this situation? Does it produce off flavors?

And well, i guess the appropriate way to combat too much sourness is blending.
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 2:53 pm
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:56 pm to
quote:


//edit: For your sour that has lacto and brett and sacch and bottle dregs, you're just gonna have to let it ride. I'd be more worried about it not properly souring rather than it getting TOO sour. It's probably a year from done right now and there's not much you can do other than let it ride in a dark place and make sure the airlock doesn't run dry.


Yeah, the too sour problem isn't necessarily for this batch, but for future sour batches. I have it in the ferm freezer right now, but i'll be moving it into a closet if my ferm temps for my next batch will be too low.

Here's another question, what, if any, are the negative affects of too cold of a fermentation, say 65-70 degrees for 2 weeks or more? or does that minor temp swing not really matter when souring long term.
Posted by BottomlandBrew
Member since Aug 2010
28412 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 2:58 pm to
quote:

Even if you've already pitched your sach and brett?


I'm strictly talking about kettle souring with lacto.
Posted by s14suspense
Baton Rouge
Member since Mar 2007
15146 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:19 pm to
quote:

not making a starter and just pitching out the vial seemed strange to me.



You threw a ton of yeast into that thing. It's fine.

I feel like there's a strong possibility of getting the Quick sour/Lacto/Gose or Berliner beers and the long term Lambic Kriek Brett beers info crossed the way you're asking and talking about them.

Posted by AubieALUMdvm
Member since Oct 2011
11713 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:37 pm to
Not sour related-

Want to thank you for the oatmeal coffee stout recipe and recommendations. Cracked the first one on Sunday and WhoA! The next batch (a double batch) is already being planned.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:39 pm to
quote:


I feel like there's a strong possibility of getting the Quick sour/Lacto/Gose or Berliner beers and the long term Lambic Kriek Brett beers info crossed the way you're asking and talking about them.



me too...

I think i'm doing too much research.

quick sour = brew as normal, make lacto starter (i've seen one with DME 1.04, apple juice, calcium carbonate and yeast nutrient) pitch starter into wort at 86 degrees or higher for 48-72 hours, then pitch sach and brett if desired.
Then there is the other method of using omega lacto blend and pitching at 96 and letting it ride.

Traditional = basically pitch the way i did?

i'm asking...
This post was edited on 3/22/16 at 3:50 pm
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 3:47 pm to
quote:

Want to thank you for the oatmeal coffee stout recipe and recommendations. Cracked the first one on Sunday and WhoA! The next batch (a double batch) is already being planned.





No problem. Did you use the 2 row or did you end up getting some maris otter? Did you use coffee? How big was the batch?

Glad you liked it. It's one of my favorite recipes i brew. I'm critical of every beer i make, but that one is hard for me to pick apart.
Posted by AubieALUMdvm
Member since Oct 2011
11713 posts
Posted on 3/22/16 at 9:55 pm to
Used 2 row and did a 1.25gal batch - with about 0.2 gal lost to trub it leaves me with about an even 1 gal for bottling.

The follow-up batch that i'll probably do this weekend will be with the marris otter (I bought a 10 lb bag to use in this and in a Dale's pale ale clone) and will be 2 gallons. The coffee stout is such a great cold weather brew I want to get more out before it warms up in late may.


These little batches have been a ton of fun. I've done 8 total since mid January and I've learned a lot.
Posted by BugAC
St. George
Member since Oct 2007
55439 posts
Posted on 3/23/16 at 7:08 am to
quote:

The coffee stout is such a great cold weather brew I want to get more out before it warms up in late may.



Agreed. I believe this was my first beer to go into my kegging system last year. The keg ran dry in about 3 weeks (not just from me).

quote:


These little batches have been a ton of fun. I've done 8 total since mid January and I've learned a lot.




I've often wanted to do gallon batches. The ease of brewing in your house as opposed to dragging all that equipment out, sounds more appealing. The problem, is you only have 1 gallon of beer. But if you are making 8/month, then you really don't have that problem.
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