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Message
re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 8/5/15 at 4:36 pm to BMoney
Posted on 8/5/15 at 4:36 pm to BMoney
quote:
unless you plan to imperialize your IPA.
Dammit.
No imperializing. I'm trying to make an IPA i can call a "house IPA". A very good IPA that i can tinker with, but that overall it's a damn fine beer. I've brewed a bunch of IPA's so far, and none of them have been great. Some were good, but nothing to knock your socks off.
I'm hoping my Citra Amarillo IPA might be one of those. Going with a more traditional west coast grain bill, and staying away from new exotic hops, and going with good ole citra and amarillo for aroma/flavor, and centennial for bittering.
Maybe i'll have time to brew my coffee stout before the competition. I think i gave you a couple bottles last year. I've already made some adjustments to that one to get it more tailored.
Posted on 8/5/15 at 4:37 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
Pitch a blend of sacch and brett lambicus. Build it up on a stir plate and make sure your wort is highly oxygenated at the time of pitching. Lambicus produces low levels of acid with enough oxygen. Might also add say 8-10% of acid malt in your mash.

Is their any blends out there you'd recommend, or in reference to a blend, pick out a sacc strain, and a brett lambicus strain and pitch together in a starter?
Posted on 8/5/15 at 4:45 pm to BugAC
I know Prairie used to use a lot of 3711. I'm not sure if that's still the case. As far as the lambicus, you're going to want the Wyeast version. Mash high. Like 156ish.
Yes.
quote:
pitch together in a starter
Yes.
This post was edited on 8/5/15 at 4:46 pm
Posted on 8/5/15 at 5:02 pm to BottomlandBrew
quote:
I know Prairie used to use a lot of 3711. I'm not sure if that's still the case. As far as the lambicus, you're going to want the Wyeast version. Mash high. Like 156ish.
Nice. 3711 is my go to saison yeast and I handle it very well. I'll post a grain bill tomorrow of what I'm thinking.
Posted on 8/5/15 at 5:55 pm to BugAC
3711/lambicus combo will definitely be more on the funky side, but will have some low levels of acidity of done right. It won't be the same acidity you get from lacto or pedio additions. I had Prairie gold at the Chimes a few weeks back and loved it. It had more in it than brett and sacch.
Posted on 8/5/15 at 6:00 pm to BottomlandBrew
What about tossing some dregs in there ?
Posted on 8/5/15 at 8:05 pm to BugAC
Speaking of our competition here are the style parameters just off the decision block.
17. Strong British Ale
A. British Strong Ale
B. Old Ale
C. Wee Heavy
D. English Barleywine
22. Strong American Ale
A. Double IPA
B. American Strong Ale
C. American Barleywine
D. Wheatwine
25. Strong Belgian Ale
A. Belgian Blond Ale
B. Saison
C. Belgian Golden Strong Ale
26. Trappist Ale
A. Trappist Single
B. Belgian Dubbel
C. Belgian Tripel
D. Belgian Dark Strong Ale
33. Wood Beer
A. Wood-Aged Beer
B. Specialty Wood-Aged Beer
17. Strong British Ale
A. British Strong Ale
B. Old Ale
C. Wee Heavy
D. English Barleywine
22. Strong American Ale
A. Double IPA
B. American Strong Ale
C. American Barleywine
D. Wheatwine
25. Strong Belgian Ale
A. Belgian Blond Ale
B. Saison
C. Belgian Golden Strong Ale
26. Trappist Ale
A. Trappist Single
B. Belgian Dubbel
C. Belgian Tripel
D. Belgian Dark Strong Ale
33. Wood Beer
A. Wood-Aged Beer
B. Specialty Wood-Aged Beer
Posted on 8/5/15 at 8:46 pm to Fratastic423
Some hefty styles.
Out of all those styles saison is the only one I've brewed. I have been meaning to read up on Belgian styles one day.
Out of all those styles saison is the only one I've brewed. I have been meaning to read up on Belgian styles one day.
This post was edited on 8/5/15 at 8:49 pm
Posted on 8/5/15 at 8:56 pm to BugAC
I'd love to make a big quad to bottle and store
Posted on 8/5/15 at 9:03 pm to BugAC
Think the theme must be big beers because it'll be so late in the year.
I think we'll at least enter into wood aged beers.
I think we'll at least enter into wood aged beers.
Posted on 8/6/15 at 8:03 am to BugAC
You can put in whatever dregs you want, but then you run the chance of there being other bugs in there that might make it too sour for your tastes. I know the sacch/lambicus blend creates low levels of acidity and high levels of fruity funk. You could pitch a starter of some White Labs L. brevis a few days in advance if you wanted to get a little bit more clean acidity. Just watch your IBUs if you go that route.
Pulling up some info on their site, it looks like Prairie gold is a "mix of ale yeast, wine yeast, lactobacillus and 2 strains of brettanomyces."
Pulling up some info on their site, it looks like Prairie gold is a "mix of ale yeast, wine yeast, lactobacillus and 2 strains of brettanomyces."
Posted on 8/6/15 at 8:47 am to BottomlandBrew
quote:
You can put in whatever dregs you want, but then you run the chance of there being other bugs in there that might make it too sour for your tastes.
I'd like to split the batch. Half going the sach/l. brevis route, the other half using only dregs.
Posted on 8/6/15 at 12:30 pm to BugAC
I would recommend making a dregs starter asap. You'll want to add dregs and let them go a while. Taste it from time to time, decant off the beer and feed it fresh wort. The bugs and yeast in the dregs will grow at different rates, so the character that your dregs can give a beer will change over time. If your starter tastes good, then add that to your wort.
Posted on 8/6/15 at 2:27 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I would recommend making a dregs starter asap. You'll want to add dregs and let them go a while. Taste it from time to time, decant off the beer and feed it fresh wort. The bugs and yeast in the dregs will grow at different rates, so the character that your dregs can give a beer will change over time. If your starter tastes good, then add that to your wort.
Will keep in mind. I'm still at least 2 or more brews before starting on a sour.
I have an IPA and a stout to brew.
Posted on 8/6/15 at 3:03 pm to BugAC
So i've been presented with an opportunity to brew next weekend. I was planning on putting my brewing on hold for a couple months due to the Oktoberfest i'm lagering, but i've been given the go ahead to brew next weekend if i want.
And i want.
The problem, is my fermentation freezer is tied up with the lager. I used to use the swamp cooler method, and i think i still have my old swamp cooler in my attic. It's an igloo cube ice chest with a hole cut out of the lid to fit the carboy neck. I haven't used that thing in 2 years or more, so i don't remember how well those things work. I have a spare bathroom with no windows that stays cooler than the rest of the house. We have the house ac set at 74 when we aren't there, but i don't think that room gets over 72 the whole day, which could work out (i'll do some tests on the room this weekend). My problem is this IPA i want to brew, is one i've been concentrating on that i don't want to screw up.
My question, how much heat does fermentation put off? If i'm going swamp cooler, i need to nail down how cool my cooler water needs to be to keep my ferm temps steady, so i can adjust my water temps with ice bottles.
My initial plan is to have my water about 2 degrees cooler than ferment temps. So have my swamp cooler around 66/67 degrees. Let it rise to 68-70 and just maintain the temps from there.
And i want.
The problem, is my fermentation freezer is tied up with the lager. I used to use the swamp cooler method, and i think i still have my old swamp cooler in my attic. It's an igloo cube ice chest with a hole cut out of the lid to fit the carboy neck. I haven't used that thing in 2 years or more, so i don't remember how well those things work. I have a spare bathroom with no windows that stays cooler than the rest of the house. We have the house ac set at 74 when we aren't there, but i don't think that room gets over 72 the whole day, which could work out (i'll do some tests on the room this weekend). My problem is this IPA i want to brew, is one i've been concentrating on that i don't want to screw up.
My question, how much heat does fermentation put off? If i'm going swamp cooler, i need to nail down how cool my cooler water needs to be to keep my ferm temps steady, so i can adjust my water temps with ice bottles.
My initial plan is to have my water about 2 degrees cooler than ferment temps. So have my swamp cooler around 66/67 degrees. Let it rise to 68-70 and just maintain the temps from there.
This post was edited on 8/6/15 at 3:05 pm
Posted on 8/6/15 at 5:11 pm to BugAC
Could just do a quick lager method. Could be as little as 2 weeks.
Posted on 8/6/15 at 5:52 pm to s14suspense
quote:
by s14suspense
Could just do a quick lager method. Could be as little as 2 weeks.
Same results as a 30 day lager?
Posted on 8/7/15 at 8:06 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
quick lager method
Thanks. I'll definitely try this.

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