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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 4/29/14 at 12:35 pm to SouthOfSouth
Posted on 4/29/14 at 12:35 pm to SouthOfSouth
I just have the mesh hose hooked up to a ball valve. I'm thinking of doing a square manifold, but might just leave it as is
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:19 pm to LSURoss
quote:
I just have the mesh hose hooked up to a ball valve. I'm thinking of doing a square manifold, but might just leave it as is
That's fine. I have the false bottom but the hose is fine too.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:20 pm to SouthOfSouth
Sweet. Now I'm ready punch some grains into beer smith and get to brewing. 
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:21 pm to LSURoss
time to start planning a Berliner weisse
I've been researching other recipes online and while they are very similar, they also have minor differences
for those of you that have made this, did you use a sour mash or use commercial lacto? How long was your fermentation?
I've been researching other recipes online and while they are very similar, they also have minor differences
for those of you that have made this, did you use a sour mash or use commercial lacto? How long was your fermentation?
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:32 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
Batch 4 - Kettle soured, dropped pH to 4.5 using acid malt, pitched in a handful of grains last night.
just tried this batch and it's already souring up nicely. I pitched three hop bags of crushed grains last night at around 7pm.
That drop in pH appears to have made for some really happy lacto. Will check again tomorrow and if everything is progressing at this rate will boil, chill, and pitch some US05.
This post was edited on 4/29/14 at 2:43 pm
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:32 pm to SouthOfSouth
quote:
I actually run my mash through a fine hops bag to make sure I dont get any grains in my boil kettle. As a precaution because I don't know whether I trust any false bottom
So kind of like a BIAB?
Does this affect your efficiency any?
I've had 1 stuck mash before. Turns out, when i was pouring my grains and mixing, my false bottom was lifted a little, allowing grains into the drain, clogging up the works. Of course, i didn't know this until i ended up dumping the entire batch. I was also unaware that i could have just tranferred everything over to my kettle, disassembled/reassembled, and tried again.
Lesson learned. I triple check to ensure my false bottom is secure to the bottom of the mash tun. I need a new piece of tubing to use as a gasket, though. The tubing i use, gets flimsy when it gets hot, and sooner or later it will get dislodged, unless i take some stainless wire and braid it through the false bottom opening, and around the tubing gasket.
Oh, and i will be tasting my 3rd Prime IPA today for the first time. Excited about this one.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:38 pm to LSUGrad00
question regarding the use of lacto:
If I keg this beer, will I need to be extra careful cleaning out the keg and lines afterwards for use with future beers?
If so, maybe it's better to just bottle it
If I keg this beer, will I need to be extra careful cleaning out the keg and lines afterwards for use with future beers?
If so, maybe it's better to just bottle it
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:45 pm to DR Hops
quote:
I've had 1 stuck mash before. Turns out, when i was pouring my grains and mixing, my false bottom was lifted a little, allowing grains into the drain, clogging up the works. Of course, i didn't know this until i ended up dumping the entire batch. I was also unaware that i could have just tranferred everything over to my kettle, disassembled/reassembled, and tried again.
Lesson learned. I triple check to ensure my false bottom is secure to the bottom of the mash tun. I need a new piece of tubing to use as a gasket, though. The tubing i use, gets flimsy when it gets hot, and sooner or later it will get dislodged, unless i take some stainless wire and braid it through the false bottom opening, and around the tubing gasket.
This is what happened to me when I had my false bottom issues.
quote:
So kind of like a BIAB?
I find that even with my false bottom a few grains will get thru, especially when Im using wheat, which I use a good bit. So when my mash is running thru my mash tun and into my boil kettle I just attach a hop bag to the outside, not the inside. So I will catch some of the grains that get thru.
While not totally necessary, I have found that t I i catch a good amount of my grains by doing this.
This post was edited on 4/29/14 at 1:47 pm
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:47 pm to LoneStarTiger
If you have bacteria in a beer post boil you will always need to be concerned about cross contamination. Some are more concerned than others. Some have tubing, fermentation tanks, lines, kegs, etc all dedicated to just sour beers just in case. A deep clean in bleach will kill everything off, so there is always that option.
However, if you are introducing lacto pre boil you really do not have to worry about the kegging equipment as all the bacteria will die off in the boil.
However, if you are introducing lacto pre boil you really do not have to worry about the kegging equipment as all the bacteria will die off in the boil.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:53 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
However, if you are introducing lacto pre boil you really do not have to worry about the kegging equipment as all the bacteria will die off in the boil.
I think, then, that this is the way I want to go. Tubing and fermenters dedicated to sours is not an issue, but I would have to bottle it because I don't want to have to worry about a keg and lines.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:58 pm to LSUGrad00
after you kettle sour, how long do you boil?
Posted on 4/29/14 at 1:59 pm to LoneStarTiger
Beer lines are at like 40 degrees. Yeast and bacteria work really slow at that temp. I'd kick a keg way before I noticed and effects from contaminated beer lines. Bottling from the tap is a whole different story. Cross contamination in your lines is a concern when bottling for anything that is going to spend extended time in a bottle.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:05 pm to LoneStarTiger
quote:
after you kettle sour, how long do you boil?
I boil anything with pils in it for at least 60 mins, but that's personal preference.
A lot of people boil 15 mins or less. Just long enough to ensure all the bugs are dead.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:09 pm to LSUGrad00
When I have pre-soured beers in the past, I have mashed, sparged then brought the wort to a boil for 10 mins, cooled and introduced the bacteria. Once the wort had soured enough, I brewed just like any other beer. My berliner weisse recipe only had me boil for 10 mins, but my sour saison we boiled for an hour since we were hopping it up.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:12 pm to SouthOfSouth
quote:
While not totally necessary, I have found that t I i catch a good amount of my grains by doing this.
I need to find a better way of filtering out hops sediment after my post boil cool down. I've tried whirlpooling the wort, but i still end up getting a shite load of trub clogging up my 2 strainer system. I'm going from the ball valve of my boil kettle to a wire mesh strainer, to a funnel, with it's own fine strainer, to the fermenter. I typically have to stop about 5 times to scoop out the trub that clogs up the strainers.
Would an auto-siphon racking cane work with this?
This post was edited on 4/29/14 at 2:14 pm
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:29 pm to DR Hops
quote:
need to find a better way of filtering out hops sediment after my post boil cool down. I've tried whirlpooling the wort, but i still end up getting a shite load of trub clogging up my 2 strainer system. I'm going from the ball valve of my boil kettle to a wire mesh strainer, to a funnel, with it's own fine strainer, to the fermenter. I typically have to stop about 5 times to scoop out the trub that clogs up the strainers.
Hop bags dude.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:31 pm to DR Hops
quote:
I need to find a better way of filtering out hops sediment after my post boil cool down. I've tried whirlpooling the wort, but i still end up getting a shite load of trub clogging up my 2 strainer system. I'm going from the ball valve of my boil kettle to a wire mesh strainer, to a funnel, with it's own fine strainer, to the fermenter. I typically have to stop about 5 times to scoop out the trub that clogs up the strainers.
a paint stirrer attached to a cordless drill will give you a mountain of hops so high Sherpas will boycott your shite... too soon?
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:32 pm to DR Hops
quote:
I need to find a better way of filtering out hops sediment after my post boil cool down.
I use a 24"x24" grain bag and drape it over the side of my boil kettle. Put all my hops in the bag. I can pick it up during boiling and swish it around/ dunk it.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:34 pm to DR Hops
quote:
Would an auto-siphon racking cane work with this?
If the liquid is hot make sure the plastic is graded high heat food grade. If this is after cooling, it isn't as big of an issue.
Posted on 4/29/14 at 2:37 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
mountain of hops so high Sherpas will boycott your shite... too soon?
Clearly I do not keep up with Sherpa news bc I have no clue what you are talking about
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