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Message
Staining/coating pressure treated pine
Posted on 12/29/20 at 11:16 pm
Posted on 12/29/20 at 11:16 pm
I’m making an outdoor sofa from pressure treated 2x4. I didn’t want to paint it because i felt it would look worse over rime (I was gonna paint it white).
It will be an outdoor sofa but will be underneath patio covering with only 2-3 hours of sun per day.
What should i use to stain and protect with?
Want to look like this:
It will be an outdoor sofa but will be underneath patio covering with only 2-3 hours of sun per day.
What should i use to stain and protect with?
Want to look like this:
5
Posted on 12/30/20 at 4:07 am to jyoung1
It won't look like that. That is cedar. If you are using pressure treated, I would stain it because stain doesn't chip. However, you need to give the new wood a few months to dry out or the stain won't adhere properly. Good luck.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 7:10 am to Yeahright
quote:
I would stain it because stain doesn't chip.
Agreed, but if he uses treated wood that is still wet, it is going to shrink as it dries and it all depends on how he joined parts as to how wonky it will wind up looking in the end.
I've seen joints open up 1/8 to 3/16 an inch when that wood finally dries out.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 8:18 am to jyoung1
Unless against for some reason, just buy Cedar and be done with it.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 9:00 am to LSUfan20005
quote:
just buy Cedar and be done with it.
Yep. A much better wood for such outdoor projects if you can take the cost of the materials.
It will age naturally and have a nice patina over time and no need for any finish to begin with.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 9:24 am to jyoung1
You ever see stained deck?
(that's what you get)
(that's what you get)
Posted on 12/30/20 at 10:19 am to jyoung1
All suggestions above are good and very true.
FWIW,
I've always used just regular yellow can Minwax stains and once I am done I let dry a day or two then apply a polyurethane over it. Never had an issue with outdoors stuff going this route. However, wood must be dry before doing any of that.
FWIW,
I've always used just regular yellow can Minwax stains and once I am done I let dry a day or two then apply a polyurethane over it. Never had an issue with outdoors stuff going this route. However, wood must be dry before doing any of that.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 11:51 am to southern686
Ok thanks for all suggestions, i just got pressure treated because I couldn’t find cedar in size i needed at Lowe’s.
It is still a little wet, been about a month since i bought.
So i wait until dry then apply something like these?
It is still a little wet, been about a month since i bought.
So i wait until dry then apply something like these?
Posted on 12/30/20 at 11:52 am to southern686
Personally, I like the looks of the table in the corner
Posted on 12/30/20 at 11:53 am to jyoung1
Also current progress:
Hopefully I didn’t mess up too bad by joining/glueing while still wet.
Hopefully I didn’t mess up too bad by joining/glueing while still wet.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 12:53 pm to jyoung1
Maybe so.
In my experience PT's going to move around some, shrink, and the joinery likely open up some as it dries. What you got going now is probably ok. But mitered corners and anything laid parallel will open up and widen.
In my experience PT's going to move around some, shrink, and the joinery likely open up some as it dries. What you got going now is probably ok. But mitered corners and anything laid parallel will open up and widen.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 2:19 pm to jyoung1
If it’s not gonna be in the rain, why go pressure treated? I’ve built tons of this DIY stuff. Go cheap, get untreated, stain it & if you wanna further protect it, hit it with some spar instead of a regular poly
Posted on 12/30/20 at 2:22 pm to jyoung1
It’s def gonna move. How much is the question. I’ve never used wet wood but my kitchen table was made with regular 2x10s and untreated 4x4s. It’s moved a little, but not enough to split. Just enough to make it look like a shitty job. But It’s about as good as can be expected when you using schrapnel for joinery lol
But, I’d say your margin of error on an outside sofa is larger than a kitchen table. Meaning, it ain’t as big of a deal if it’s not perfect
But, I’d say your margin of error on an outside sofa is larger than a kitchen table. Meaning, it ain’t as big of a deal if it’s not perfect
This post was edited on 12/30/20 at 2:26 pm
Posted on 12/30/20 at 2:28 pm to jyoung1
This is what mine looks like after a couple years...
Posted on 12/30/20 at 3:26 pm to Schmelly
Yea, hindsight would not have done pressure treated. So I’m good with using regular interior stain and applying some spar urethane over it?
Posted on 12/30/20 at 5:43 pm to jyoung1
quote:
Yea, hindsight would not have done pressure treated.
Ideally, using cypress in the correct dimensions would have been a good choice and not much more expensive. Even then I would put some sort of weatherproofing finish on it. Cypress is not what it once was with new growth being not as rot resistant as old growth lumber.
Upper end would be Spanish cedar, then redwood or cedar as an option, but you'd have to fork over $$$ for that lumber.
Posted on 1/5/21 at 11:13 pm to jyoung1
quote:
Yea, hindsight would not have done pressure treated. So I’m good with using regular interior stain and applying some spar urethane over it?
Yeah, as good as can be with that kinda wood I guess. If it’s not in the weather, you’ll get some years out of it. Spar the shite out of it if it’ll give you peace of mind
Posted on 1/6/21 at 5:43 am to jyoung1
quote:
So I’m good with using regular interior stain and applying some spar urethane over it?
Personally, I wouldn't use an interior stain. Exterior stains exist for a reason. You can spar over an exterior stain.
Bear in mind that anytime a clear is used on an exterior surface, it becomes a maintenance project. You will need to recoat.
This post was edited on 1/6/21 at 7:55 am
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