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Question about low tomato production
Posted on 7/9/19 at 7:32 pm
Posted on 7/9/19 at 7:32 pm
I have a raised garden and planted seeds directly in the soil about the 2nd week of April. The plants grew VERY well, but it took a while for them to bloom flowers.
I only got about 3 tomatoes before the heat kicked to > 90 degrees. I doubt any of the new flower buds will produce anything.
Two questions:
1) Since this was my first year doing tomatoes, what should I do differently next year to boost production? (e.g., start from seeds and transplant? Trim earlier?)
2) Instead of ripping the plans out after these 3 tomatoes finish growing, should I just leave the plants in the ground and see if they produce in the fall? They are heirloom tomatoes I got from a seed exchange - seem to be normal, big red tomatoes.
I only got about 3 tomatoes before the heat kicked to > 90 degrees. I doubt any of the new flower buds will produce anything.
Two questions:
1) Since this was my first year doing tomatoes, what should I do differently next year to boost production? (e.g., start from seeds and transplant? Trim earlier?)
2) Instead of ripping the plans out after these 3 tomatoes finish growing, should I just leave the plants in the ground and see if they produce in the fall? They are heirloom tomatoes I got from a seed exchange - seem to be normal, big red tomatoes.
6
Posted on 7/9/19 at 7:35 pm to FearTheFish
Start seeds in January and transplant mid to late March. After you are sure the last frost has passed. You definitely waited too late.
If you can keep the plants healthy, then I don’t see a reason not to just let them keep going until the fall. Got nothing to lose.
If you can keep the plants healthy, then I don’t see a reason not to just let them keep going until the fall. Got nothing to lose.
This post was edited on 7/9/19 at 7:56 pm
Posted on 7/9/19 at 7:40 pm to FearTheFish
First, you probably could have started the seeds earlier, but it’s likely not the only issue. I had a similar problems last year and this year got much better results.
First thing with tomatoes is they don’t need much nitrogen. Use a balanced fertilizer, and I added a little extra phosphorus at planting and during fruiting, just to make me feel better. Avoid overwatering, it rinses the fertilizer out prematurely and makes it hard to keep up.
Leave the plants if you want, if they look healthy then there’s not much reason to pull them. Good chance something will get them between now and fall though, so be prepared if you want a shot at a fall crop.
First thing with tomatoes is they don’t need much nitrogen. Use a balanced fertilizer, and I added a little extra phosphorus at planting and during fruiting, just to make me feel better. Avoid overwatering, it rinses the fertilizer out prematurely and makes it hard to keep up.
Leave the plants if you want, if they look healthy then there’s not much reason to pull them. Good chance something will get them between now and fall though, so be prepared if you want a shot at a fall crop.
Posted on 7/9/19 at 7:47 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:
First thing with tomatoes is they don’t need much nitrogen. Use a balanced fertilizer, and I added a little extra phosphorus at planting and during fruiting, just to make me feel better.
Any suggestions? I used some of the Burpee vegetable fertilizer and it seemed to do well with my peppers and everything else.
Posted on 7/9/19 at 8:01 pm to FearTheFish
Some additional info to help you along
Vegetable Garden Tips - Tomatoes LSU AgCenter
Growing Great Home Garden Tomatoes LSU AgCenter
Vegetable Garden Tips - Tomatoes LSU AgCenter
Growing Great Home Garden Tomatoes LSU AgCenter
Posted on 7/9/19 at 11:28 pm to CrawDude
Like the others said, you waited too late. I plant my seeds on 1/1. On Feb 15 I look at the long range forecast and if no 30's for a month I plant. I plant between 2/15 and 3/15, with 3/1 to 3/15 being the most common. I also start enough seeds where if I do get a killing frost I can replant. If I don't have to replant I give them away to people that insist on waiting until "After Easter" to plant.
Posted on 7/10/19 at 7:32 am to FearTheFish
That looks good, 3-6-4 is just about right and if it’s got some calcium on the label then even better. If not just need to supplement with a handful of garden gypsum at planting and every few weeks to prevent blossom end rot. Add epsom salt as well as a source of magnesium and sulfur. Containers become depleted with excess rain or watering, so the trick is learning to read the plants’ needs without over or under doing it. They should be growing around a foot a week at peak season but there should be just as many blossom stems as regular branches. This was the biggest difference I noticed, before I paid attention to my fertilizer there was a lot of leaf growth but not very many blossoms.
Posted on 7/10/19 at 11:59 am to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:If memory serves correct, it was about 3-5% calcium.
3-6-4 is just about right and if it’s got some calcium on the label then even better.
Thanks for the input everyone. Seems as though the fatal error was planting so late. This is the first year doing a full blown garden, so it's been trial by error for the most part.
Posted on 7/10/19 at 6:19 pm to FearTheFish
If you are in S. La, chances are that what ever is still on the plant will be splitting with the rain.
Posted on 7/11/19 at 4:53 am to FearTheFish
The most common thing people do to hurt their crop is planting too late. I start the seeds 1st week of January and plant last week of Feb or 1st week of March.
Posted on 7/11/19 at 6:43 pm to FearTheFish
Yep, like others said you have to start growing from seed in January. My grandfather used to start his whole garden in the spare bathtub right after new years day.
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