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Deck plank replacement dos and donts
Posted on 8/8/21 at 8:56 am
Posted on 8/8/21 at 8:56 am
I would love to hear yours. I have a shitton of boardwalk and decking that was built in the early 90s and lots of rotten boards because the deck is built into the side of a hill and with erosion there is alot more ground touching the boards.
i have a combination of 5/4 x 6 and 2 x 6 boards.
as i'm replacing them i only know of 2 things people have told me:
- make sure concave board grain is facing down (frown) so when the wood dries and warps it will tend warp downward instead of upward
- fit a pencil between each board for spacing as you go to keep water from being trapped between boards
any other advice?
i have a combination of 5/4 x 6 and 2 x 6 boards.
as i'm replacing them i only know of 2 things people have told me:
- make sure concave board grain is facing down (frown) so when the wood dries and warps it will tend warp downward instead of upward
- fit a pencil between each board for spacing as you go to keep water from being trapped between boards
any other advice?
9
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:35 am to CAD703X
Only replace the boards that definitely need replacing. Avoid redoing the whole deck. Treated deck boards now are no where near as good as treated deck boards for the 90's.
I replaced my entire deck about 5 years ago and I regret it. Boards are rotting left and right. I'm tired of replacing bad boards.
I replaced my entire deck about 5 years ago and I regret it. Boards are rotting left and right. I'm tired of replacing bad boards.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:39 am to CAD703X
galvanized nails or screws.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:55 am to CAD703X
Most PT is so wet I don't do spacing anymore.
In fact I jam them up tight with a 'bo wrench' specialty bar. They'll be spaced in short order.
Best wood I can find is kiln dried after treating (KDT) it's noticeably less knotty and the one's around here holds up better than the type Yellow brand (or Lowes)
Letting wood dry first is a luxury a home owner can do.
Cut ends (except next to house) all at once after putting down.
In fact I jam them up tight with a 'bo wrench' specialty bar. They'll be spaced in short order.
Best wood I can find is kiln dried after treating (KDT) it's noticeably less knotty and the one's around here holds up better than the type Yellow brand (or Lowes)
Letting wood dry first is a luxury a home owner can do.
Cut ends (except next to house) all at once after putting down.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:07 am to CAD703X
Cover the top of the 2x6 joist with a flashing tape of some sort. I have even used duct tape and old bicycle innertube before. It keeps water from sitting on top of the joist. Then lay you 5/4 over it and use good screws..no nails.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:30 am to CAD703X
If newly purchased deck boards, I would secure the deckboards flush with no spacing. As the wood dries out, it will give you the necessary space.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 11:33 am to CAD703X
I wouldn’t space them at all. Once they dry they will shrink up to 1/4 inch.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 1:27 pm to CAD703X
There are different grades of treated wood, buy the best grade for your application. The stuff at Home Depot isn’t it
Posted on 8/9/21 at 7:14 am to CAD703X
Get marine grade. It will last the longest but is the most $$$
Posted on 8/9/21 at 12:12 pm to CAD703X
I put the most attractive side up. Also, put a large nail as spacer between pressure treated boards. The boards will shrink a bit when they dry out and make a larger gap.
The thing I have trouble with is effectively staining/sealing between the boards.
The thing I have trouble with is effectively staining/sealing between the boards.
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