Wood floors over stained concrete?

I can't see why it would matter if you're using moisture barrier. Maybe I'm missing something though. Interested to know the answer.

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I have some engineered tongue and groove wood floors that I will be installing over the stained concrete in my home. I am trying to figure out the best way to do this.

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The main question is are you going to install it floating or glue down? Many engineered wood floors are installed floating as most of them have a click-lock design. If it is click-lock you will just need to put the underlayment then put the floor on top of it. All the flooring manufacturers will tell you to do a slab moisture test, most DIYers don't do one. After acclimating the flooring to your home you put down the underlayment then put the wood on top. Underlayment will run about .50 to .60 a square and provides a moisture barrier and sound insulation so you don't get that cheap click-click sound as you walk over it. Decent underlayment will have a built-in sealing strip.

Besides a moisture check be aware your slab needs to be fairly flat, the underlayment will make up for small differences but anything outside the manufactures tolerance will need to be leveled, there are self-leveling products to do this.

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Gluing it down is another thing.

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I really do prefer a glue-down application for that monolithic feel and sound when you walk on it. The high-end products do a good job of sealing out moisture as well. I put down about 2100 sq ft of "solid" bamboo in our camp and it is a lot of work and not cheap. I used Bostik Wood Grip Plus and it was over 1.50 a sq for the recommended trowel pattern for use as a moisture membrane and not just as an adhesive. The problem for a slab that was finished for use as a finished floor is it won't be rough enough for good ahesion so you have the added cost of mechanical texturing if it is too smooth, the concrete needs to be similar to a broomed finish. It will also have to be level just like the floating installation.

Inn the end I think glue-down is absolutely the best option but given the circumstances, it probably doesn't make economic or DIY labor sense given it is "only" engineered floors. I say only because they are almost certainly going to be replaced at some point where solid wood can usually be a lifetime product via refinishing.

It’s not click lock, just tongue and groove. It’s engineered so has some plywood underneath the 4mm wear layer. I want to just put down a moisture barrier, then glue them together(floated).I have seen so many different ways to do it though and was worried about the feel without it glue down vs floated. The floors can be refinished 2-3 times so I’ve researched although I don’t plan on it . I don’t expect to ever change them out. They came with a 25 year warranty.

Roll on a moisture barrier LINK

Then glue it down
With this LINK
They guarantee it for I think 20 years

Follow my instructions above

Probably expensive, but check out this "click together" solid hardwood I saw today.

LINK