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re: updating home from vinyl to hardy board..anyone done this?
Posted on 11/14/19 at 7:51 am to CAD703X
Posted on 11/14/19 at 7:51 am to CAD703X
quote:
Correct on all counts except the hardiboard comes already painted as long as I pick him the one of the 20 or so colors.
Problem I see there is that they will be corking. You would have to buy Hardie board matching paint for that.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 8:02 am to fishfighter
He said it comes with matching premixed putty? Caulk? Something like that to fill in the nail holes.
This post was edited on 11/14/19 at 8:03 am
Posted on 11/14/19 at 9:44 am to CAD703X
They sell caulk in all the colors that the Hardie prepainted is offered in. Would only need putty for the trim as screws are hidden on the actual hardie board. Only place they use caulk is where trim and siding meet.
This post was edited on 11/14/19 at 9:50 am
Posted on 11/14/19 at 10:50 am to CAD703X
quote:
37k.
That seems high considering you already have sheeting under the vinyl. I had cedar board and batting on my 2800 SF house that had no sheeting for $8000 about 7 years ago.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 11:50 am to CAD703X
quote:
Correct on all counts except the hardiboard comes already painted as long as I pick him the one of the 20 or so colors.
The thing I've noticed about how Hardiboard is installed is it's nailed at the top of the plank so no nails are showing on the exposed surface, you sometimes don't get a good snug fit on the overlap.
Most installers don't caulk under the boards to conceal that gap and I would think especially so when installing planks already pre-painted with the finish color.
Three years ago my neighbor removed all the vinyl siding off his older home with the idea of just sanding and painting the cypress weatherboards under the siding. I knew that was not going to work since I know how the wood siding looked prior to the previous owner covering it with vinyl. Between the chipping/peeling paint and the huge amount of nail holes from the vinyl siding, he decided to remove all of it, insulate the walls, cover it with sheathing and vapor barrier and went back with hardiboard.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 12:10 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
Three years ago my neighbor removed all the vinyl siding off his older home with the idea of just sanding and painting the cypress weatherboards under the siding. I knew that was not going to work since I know how the wood siding looked prior to the previous owner covering it with vinyl. Between the chipping/peeling paint and the huge amount of nail holes from the vinyl siding, he decided to remove all of it, insulate the walls, cover it with sheathing and vapor barrier and went back with hardiboard.
i remember back in the late 1970s around the same time we bought my grandmother a microwave (that was never turned on) the word was 'aluminum siding' and we redid her house which was wood and needed to be repainted like every 6 months it seemed like.
was that a thing? am i remembering wrong that aluminum siding was a thing before vinyl siding?
Posted on 11/14/19 at 12:22 pm to CAD703X
quote:
am i remembering wrong that aluminum siding was a thing before vinyl siding?
Aluminum predates both steel and vinyl siding. The biggest issue with aluminum siding is how easily it dented and that was one of the reasons other products came on the market.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 12:30 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
The thing I've noticed about how Hardiboard is installed is it's nailed at the top of the plank so no nails are showing on the exposed surface, you sometimes don't get a good snug fit on the overlap.
I have always seen it blind nailed. where the lap covers the nail head. Also, I'd be willing to bet if you checked the literature on the hardie material they would recommend blind nailing as well. You don't want a penetration no matter how small exposed to the elements.
quote:
Most installers don't caulk under the boards to conceal that gap and I would think especially so when installing planks already pre-painted with the finish color.
If installed correctly, there shouldn't be a gap, the laps should be tight. Also, if you read through the literature they probably don't recommend caulking the laps.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 12:33 pm to VanRIch
quote:
They sell caulk in all the colors that the Hardie prepainted is offered in. Would only need putty for the trim as screws are hidden on the actual hardie board. Only place they use caulk is where trim and siding meet.
this is correct, also the match paint is for treating the cut ends, and also touching up nicks.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 12:39 pm to Emteein
quote:
I have always seen it blind nailed. where the lap covers the nail head. Also, I'd be willing to bet if you checked the literature on the hardie material they would recommend blind nailing as well. You don't want a penetration no matter how small exposed to the elements.
And that is what my post said----"nailed at the top of the plank so no nails are showing"
And I've seen enough hardiboard installed to know that there WILL be gaps in some areas under the lip of the plank where they overlap. I'm an old school painter when it comes to houses, but have only dealt in real wood siding, which is always caulked to conceal any gaps between the boards. To me, uncaulked just doesn't look finished.
But if not recommended, I wouldn't do it either, especially on pre-painted siding.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 12:47 pm to CAD703X
quote:
CAD703X
Best advice I can give you: The internet is your friend, use it. download all of the product literature, specifically on installation. No matter what product you use, james hardie or whatever, they all have specific installation instructions. Review it, know it. whoever you get to install it, give it to them, tell them to read it and know it. Even if they say, "i've been building house/installing hardie/fricking chickens/ whatever for over 30 years etc", they've probably been doing it wrong that long as well. this is going to be a big investment, protect your investment by making sure it is done correctly. God forbid if it comes down to something going wrong with the siding and you need to go to the waranty, if its not installed correctly the warranty aint worth shite.
P.S.
when they remove the existing siding, I would have a new house wrap installed prior to the new siding. chances are the existing house wrap will be damaged when removing the existing siding. Don't let the siding installer tell you it's fine, the house wrap is just as important as the siding. also, same advice goes for the house wrap, download the installation instructions.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 12:54 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
And that is what my post said----"nailed at the top of the plank so no nails are showing"
My bad, miss read what you posted. I just have seen a lot of bad installs.
Had a buddy of mine recently do an addition to his house. I went by to take a look, made me sick to my stomach, I told him they're doing a bad job and even sent him a link to the manufacturers installation instructions. He was too nice and didn't want to make a big deal with the builder. yada yada yada, they move into the addition, shite leaks like a sieve. Builder came back out and "fixed it" as far as I know its been good ever since, but could have saved all the hassle if done right the first time. So, any opportunity I over stress referring to the manufacturers installation instructions.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 1:04 pm to Emteein
quote:
Emteein
thank you sir! this man knows his stuff.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 1:17 pm to Emteein
quote:
If installed correctly, there shouldn't be a gap, the laps should be tight. Also, if you read through the literature they probably don't recommend caulking the laps.
You do not caulk the over lap. Reason, a good chance water can build up behind it and things will rot. Even their web site says this.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 1:26 pm to fishfighter
I'm actually in the process of putting hardie on my shed to match the house. I thought it would be simple, and it is simple to install but it's not simple to install and look good. Our house is straight as can be and the lap gaps are almost nothing. One 12' wall of my shed is wavy as hell with uneven gaps.
That may be a lot of money, but if the installers are competent, it may be money well spent.
That may be a lot of money, but if the installers are competent, it may be money well spent.
Posted on 11/14/19 at 3:17 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
Aluminum predates both steel and vinyl siding.
There was definitely vinyl siding in the late 70s. One of my dad's favorite building stories before he became a GC was about building our house in Lexington. Apparently his brother came up from Miami to assist. Not the most job site friendly guy... but also not scared to try. Anywho dude is doing some debris clearing and job site clean up and has a real nice pile stacked. He decides to light it on fire, melts one side of the house's vinyl Wish I could've seen my mom's reaction, but she was several months pregnant with me when it happened.
Forgot which poster mentioned wavy hardie on their shed. That's why you crown studs baw. Also if you're nailed into the studs, you don't have to bang the nail in until it bends the hardie and it touches the sheathing. Days late and dollars short with that advice... but a friendly heads up in case there is a next time.
Posted on 11/15/19 at 7:04 am to MoarKilometers
quote:
Anywho dude is doing some debris clearing and job site clean up and has a real nice pile stacked. He decides to light it on fire, melts one side of the house's vinyl
Seen that done before and makes the siding look like it belongs in a Salvador Dali painting.
My late father-in-law had an outside fireplace under an overhang in front of his house in CENLA he used to cook whole hogs in front of. He decided one year to put up vinyl siding to make the place lower maintenance.
Long story short, we were getting the fireplace lit and loaded with pecan to roast a whole hog and noticed the vinyl siding on the wall nearest the fireplace getting hot to the point of starting to go slack. We hit it with a fine mist with the hose and built a temporary wall out of tin that we placed in front of it to take the heat and not damage the wall.
Posted on 11/15/19 at 8:47 am to fishfighter
quote:
You do not caulk the over lap. Reason, a good chance water can build up behind it and things will rot. Even their web site says this.
The guys that installed my hardiboard slipped a small square of sheet aluminum at each break and it was not caulked. You can't see it unless you go up to a crack and investigate. I was very pleased with their workmanship.
Posted on 11/15/19 at 3:28 pm to Minpoorly
interesting. this is why i come here
seems comparable price-wise.
seems comparable price-wise.
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