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re: Are people who climb Mt. Everest egomaniacs?

Posted on 5/29/19 at 4:48 pm to
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
26146 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 4:48 pm to
quote:

Let's be honest here... Its really a hike, not a climb.


While the collapse of the Hillary Step makes the South Col route (the one in these pictures) less technical it is a wee bit more than a hike. Even going up 45* snowfields is a massive undertaking for most even at under 18k ft.
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
26146 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 4:58 pm to
quote:

Those ‘experienced’ guys are just pissed because it’s making their great feat not so great. Basically anyone can hire a guide, train a bit, and do the same thing they’re bragging about as an elitist.


Real climbers understand the nuance of a particular climbs ethics. They don't care that much what non-climbers think. Beyond just climbing for themselves the only people they really care about what they think or perceive about a climb is other climbers.

Take Alex Honnold's free solo of Free Rider up El Cap while many non-climbers that have seen the doc may think it is the greatest climb ever, as a climber I think Caldwell and Jorgeson's free climb of the Dawn Wall is a greater accomplishment just not as dangerous. It is all about the details of the climb, if I say I climbed Ranier in 1994 most people will think no biggie, if I mention to a climber that I climbed Liberty Ridge late in the season it means something completely different.
Posted by Sao
East Texas Piney Woods
Member since Jun 2009
66133 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:01 pm to

Have you ever heard the term Mud Falcon
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
26146 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:03 pm to
quote:

then i read Krakauer's book


Please read Anatoli Boukreev's book "The Climb" about '96 Everest. He was not nearly the writer Krakauer is but he was 1000% times the mountaineer that John was. John's portrayal of Anatoli was horrible. Anatoli did more than almost another other human could or would even without Os.
Posted by VABuckeye
Naples, FL
Member since Dec 2007
35701 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:04 pm to
Yep. Great book. It’s a shame that he died shortly after that.

He was wrongfully portrayed as the villain by Krakauer. Yet, Sandy Pittman whatever gets a pass.
This post was edited on 5/29/19 at 5:06 pm
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
26146 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:06 pm to
quote:

More like $70,000 - $80,000


You can do a guided Everest expedition from about $30k (Nepalese companies) to ~120K for the 5 star level treatment. The average US company is around the 70-80k range today.

When I did it there were 6 of us and did not have pro guides, we were just over $20k each all in.
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
26146 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:09 pm to
quote:

all these climbers must be pussies. I made summit on Everest wearing gym shorts, t shirt and smoking Marlboro reds the whole way



Did you read my post in the other thread about Jim "The Bird" Bridwell? He was known for smoking unfiltered Camels on some of the hardest ascents in the world. He had one of his Everest expeditions sponsored by Camel.
Posted by JPinLondon
not in London (currently NW Ohio)
Member since Nov 2006
7855 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:15 pm to
quote:

Did you read my post in the other thread about Jim "The Bird" Bridwell? He was known for smoking unfiltered Camels on some of the hardest ascents in the world. He had one of his Everest expeditions sponsored by Camel.

Obtuse1, you are my current favorite poster. I look forward to your thoughts :)
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
26146 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:16 pm to
quote:

Yea anyone in good physical shape and plenty of cash can summit doing it this way. That’s not really an accomplishment


I know what you are saying but even getting short-roped up and down on summit day ends a multiweek mental and physical test that for 80+% of Americans would be the hardest thing they did in their lives.

As far as Sherpas go, everyone uses Sherpas. The weather window is so short unless you had a strong group of 20-30 elite climbers you simply couldn't set up for a summit bid in a short enough time frame. Even on solo and speed ascent summits the logistics of living at altitude long enough to acclimate for the summit bid are just too great without Sherpas, again unless you have a huge contingent of climbers willing to support such a bid.
This post was edited on 5/29/19 at 5:24 pm
Posted by Revelator
Member since Nov 2008
58405 posts
Posted on 5/29/19 at 5:40 pm to



So now, climbing Mt. Everest has been reduced to the experience of those standing in line at Disney World.
Posted by keks tadpole
Yellow Leaf Creek
Member since Feb 2017
7605 posts
Posted on 5/30/19 at 3:36 am to
Naive, maybe, but that line is photo-shopped, yes?
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 5/30/19 at 6:04 am to
Except its standing in line at nearly 30k feet and if you stay there long enough you absolutely are going to die
Posted by Wtodd
Tampa, FL
Member since Oct 2013
67542 posts
Posted on 5/30/19 at 6:08 am to
quote:

Yea, cause I go around bragging about speeding......

A lot of morons do just that
Posted by Mike da Tigah
Bravo Romeo Lima Alpha
Member since Feb 2005
59131 posts
Posted on 5/30/19 at 6:08 am to
quote:

but why risk death?


A sure cause for death is living. It’s not a risk. It’s a certainty.

But regardless. I don’t think they’re egomaniacs necessarily as much as thrill seekers and in search of doing something few have ever accomplished.



This post was edited on 5/30/19 at 6:11 am
Posted by OleWarSkuleAlum
Huntsville, AL
Member since Dec 2013
10293 posts
Posted on 5/30/19 at 7:46 am to
Obtuse I would like to hear your experience on Annapurna. Do you plan on summiting K2?

The way I think of Everest is you have enough money and are in decent shape you’ll summit.
Posted by terriblegreen
Souf Badden Rewage
Member since Aug 2011
9733 posts
Posted on 5/30/19 at 8:20 am to
quote:

but the Nepal government does not give a single frick


I don’t blame them one bit. Why should they? Get that money while you can.
Posted by EarlyCuyler3
Appalachia
Member since Nov 2017
27290 posts
Posted on 5/30/19 at 8:24 am to
quote:

Obtuse1, you are my current favorite poster. I look forward to your thoughts :)


Seconded. I got obsessed with Everest several years back. Would love to see it one day. Doubt I'll ever have that amount of spare cash to climb it though. And I dont want to risk standing still up there like that line.
Posted by OleWarSkuleAlum
Huntsville, AL
Member since Dec 2013
10293 posts
Posted on 6/3/19 at 4:42 pm to
Obtuse do you know any of the Americans that died on Nanda Devi?
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
26146 posts
Posted on 6/3/19 at 5:10 pm to
quote:

Obtuse I would like to hear your experience on Annapurna. Do you plan on summiting K2? The way I think of Everest is you have enough money and are in decent shape you’ll summit.


First, I gave up 8000m climbing over 10 years ago.

Our Annapurna climb was non-eventful. It was in the mid-90s and there were only 4 other expeditions on the mountain and 2 were using a different route. We actually did most of our acclimating on Cho Oyo and then did an alpine ascent of Annapurna to limit our exposure. We had a great weather window and outside the technical difficulty it was routine. We paid another expedition to use their fixed ropes, I think there were almost 7000ft of fixed rope between camp 1 and 3, above camp 3 there are no fized ropes. We did the standard West face/NW ridge route. We only spent 7 days on Annapurna and only 4 days from advanced base camp to summit and back. I prefer lightweight fast (alpine ascents).

quote:

Obtuse do you know any of the Americans that died on Nanda Devi?


I haven't even seen the list of names yet and having been out of the high mountain community for so long unless they are "famous" I doubt I know them.

I quit because I had accomplished everything I wanted to save maybe K2 but I had less and less time to train for the technical portions of climbing and when you don't do guided expeditions they take a HUGE amount of time just to plan. My wife had been very supportive and understanding for many years and I had buried too many friends. It was time to move back toward normal vacations but for us that means SCUBA, sky diving, sea kayaking, off-piste skiing and the like so it isn't like I am relegated to cruise ships.

Posted by OleWarSkuleAlum
Huntsville, AL
Member since Dec 2013
10293 posts
Posted on 6/3/19 at 5:52 pm to
quote:

I haven't even seen the list of names yet



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