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Started By
Message
Posted on 7/12/17 at 8:09 am to weadjust
You definitely need an exhaust fan in your bathroom
Posted on 7/12/17 at 8:13 am to BoogaBear
Definitely need exhaust fan for bathroom.
Definitely need GFCI outlets in wet areas (bathroom and around sink area).
Also are you putting dimmers on the can/recessed lights?
Definitely need GFCI outlets in wet areas (bathroom and around sink area).
Also are you putting dimmers on the can/recessed lights?
Posted on 7/12/17 at 8:20 am to NASA_ISS_Tiger
open up your main breaker box and count the empty spaces (locations where breakers are not installed). That will give you an idea of how many breakers/circuits you can add. Most newer houses now have a minimum of 200 amp panels.
but I agree, hire a pro and be done with it. Electricity and plumbing are two things you don't want to cut corners on.
but I agree, hire a pro and be done with it. Electricity and plumbing are two things you don't want to cut corners on.
Posted on 7/12/17 at 8:43 am to bayou choupique
quote:
open up your main breaker box and count the empty spaces
0
I've been avoiding thinking about the bathroom fan because I'll have to drill a hole through the brick on the side of my house.
quote:
hire a pro and be done with it. Electricity and plumbing are two things you don't want to cut corners on.
The work is permitted, so no matter who does it, it will have to meet code. I'm seeing quotes for $35-$40 per opening for the electrical. That's putting me in 2k territory to wire a simple basement. If I can pull the wires myself and knock that down, why not?
Posted on 7/12/17 at 8:44 am to NASA_ISS_Tiger
[img]Definitely need GFCI outlets in wet areas[/img]
Yes, I'll need 3 GFI outlets, any plug within 3 feet of water I believe is the code.
No dimmers, trying to keep it simple. 1 switch controls one set of lights, instead of 2 switches controlling the same lights, again trying to keep it all simple.
Yes, I'll need 3 GFI outlets, any plug within 3 feet of water I believe is the code.
quote:
Also are you putting dimmers on the can/recessed lights?
No dimmers, trying to keep it simple. 1 switch controls one set of lights, instead of 2 switches controlling the same lights, again trying to keep it all simple.
Posted on 7/12/17 at 9:05 am to BoogaBear
quote:
If I can pull the wires myself and knock that down, why not?
I don't think you will really save that much, they will get much better prices on wire than you, and pulling the wire is not that big of a deal for the pro's they do it everyday. You may even find some contractors hesitant to come behind you and take on a job you started, they still have the liability for the job and will want to know everything was done right.
Posted on 7/12/17 at 11:03 am to BoogaBear
Booga, what exactly are you looking for? Circuiting with homeruns, receptacle and lighting layout in CAD?
I could draw something for you (for a small fee), if you have a CAD plan. Shoot me an email and we can talk it over.
<-------- @gmail.com
Eta: Of course I get down voted for offering.
I could draw something for you (for a small fee), if you have a CAD plan. Shoot me an email and we can talk it over.
<-------- @gmail.com
Eta: Of course I get down voted for offering.
This post was edited on 7/12/17 at 12:41 pm
Posted on 7/12/17 at 11:29 am to BoogaBear
Have you worked with electrical before? Do you know/understand the principles involved? Safety is paramount in working with electrical, so if you're uncomfortable or unfamiliar, get an electrician involved.
I don't think you'll have much issue doing your work, provided you are familiar with this type of work. You can layout and plan your circuits, which boxes, what size wire, where they are pulled to, etc. Just make sure you verify every component you put in. There's some nuances to code but for the most part it's pretty simplified for what you're installing.
I'm planning to pull all the wire and electrical for my house. I'm laying out and designing each circuit right now.
I don't think you'll have much issue doing your work, provided you are familiar with this type of work. You can layout and plan your circuits, which boxes, what size wire, where they are pulled to, etc. Just make sure you verify every component you put in. There's some nuances to code but for the most part it's pretty simplified for what you're installing.
I'm planning to pull all the wire and electrical for my house. I'm laying out and designing each circuit right now.
Posted on 7/12/17 at 11:31 am to LSUtigerME
I've never done any wiring like this. I'm handy and I've read through the code and have some friends that have wired before and asked them a bunch of questions.
I'm super analytical by nature so I will probably research this enough to be a full blown electrician before I do anything.
I'm super analytical by nature so I will probably research this enough to be a full blown electrician before I do anything.
Posted on 7/12/17 at 12:19 pm to BoogaBear
I'm in Birmingham as well. Let me know if you want my electricians name. He's very reasonable and did the electrical work in our renovations. The guy works at the Lowes on Valleydale and does this on the sides.
Posted on 7/12/17 at 12:48 pm to TU Rob
That would be awesome, I'm actually not far from Valleydale.
I figure getting 2-3 quotes couldn't hurt. If it will cost me $500 it might be worth it to pay someone $800.
I figure getting 2-3 quotes couldn't hurt. If it will cost me $500 it might be worth it to pay someone $800.
Posted on 7/12/17 at 12:52 pm to BoogaBear
.
This post was edited on 7/12/17 at 1:43 pm
Posted on 7/12/17 at 9:53 pm to BoogaBear
quote:
Yes, I'll need 3 GFI outlets, any plug within 3 feet of water I believe is the code.
Within 6' of the edge of a sink/basin.
You also need more receptacles. No part of a wall can be more than 6' of a receptacle. So take a door, go 6' and you need a receptacle. If it's a long enough wall, you would then go 12' to the next receptacle (6' extending from one receptacle + 6' from the other).
Make sure that the light above the bathtub is wet location listed.
Countertop sections (i.e. split up by a sink, oven/range, etc...) greater than 2 feet need a receptacle.
You need TWO "small appliance circuits" serving the kitchen. If the lengths of the countertops lead to you having two countertop receptacles, you will need to supply each from a different circuit. The fridge can be powered by one of those two circuits, but be careful of what you put on the same circuit. A fridge compressor kicking on while you've got something like a Keurig heating up on the same circuit may be enough to trip the breaker, though you'd probably be OK.
*Your layout picture isn't showing up anymore, so I'm speaking from what I remember from what I saw around lunch time. A decent electrician should know what I posted, though.
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