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Started By
Message
1
Posted on 9/20/15 at 3:49 pm to Dirty Rascal
RE Relief Valve.
Should the toggle/lever be pointing up or down?
Should the toggle/lever be pointing up or down?
Posted on 9/20/15 at 3:54 pm to Dandy Lion
Lever should be parallel to pipe. Like dis.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 3:55 pm to Capital Cajun
Thats what I thought. Sucker is running, so I guess it´s the relief valve.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 3:55 pm to Dandy Lion
It should look like this. It doesn't matter if its pointed up or down as long as its not sticking straight out. 
Posted on 9/20/15 at 3:57 pm to Capital Cajun
Valve will open if there is an increase in temperature or pressure in the tank. Google it and there are some simple tests for both causes. Sometimes the valve goes bad and needs replacement.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:00 pm to Dirty Rascal
If it´s pointing up, I hear the flow. If down, the leak.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:04 pm to Dandy Lion
Sounds like it needs to be replaced. It should only flow when the valve is horizontal.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:08 pm to Dirty Rascal
Sorry, you´re correct. It flows when horizontal (water does seap very, very slowly out of seal where the lever is affixed to the plumbing joint).
This post was edited on 9/20/15 at 4:09 pm
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:10 pm to Dandy Lion
Here's a good article on fixing it. LINK
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:11 pm to Dandy Lion
You may have a pressure issue. Happened at my house several years ago. Regulator went bad. Had a leaking water heater and one sink has the o rings on the hookup to the faucet go bad.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:17 pm to Layabout
quote:
It's probably a malfunctioning overflow valve on your water heater draining into the pan under the heater. These typically don't drain into the plumbing system like the A/C pan.
This or the safety valve is leaking thru. Feel the temp of the water. If it is hot, it's the safety valve.
That is way to much flow of water coming from the AC unit.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:19 pm to fishfighter
Water is hot
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:29 pm to Dandy Lion
Look at the tag at the end of the safety valve. That will tell you what pressure it is set at. You will need to replace it. Match the pressure setting. get some pipe dope for the threads. You will have to drain the heater. Use a hose, but turn off the power first and run the hot water out till the water cools. Then shut off the inlet valve. At the bottom of the tank, there is a drain valve that the hose will screw to it. Just run the hose outside or to a bathroom drain and drain away. Once empty, just unscrew the drain line off the safety valve and then unscrew the safety valve it's self. Install a new one.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:30 pm to fishfighter
thank you!
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:37 pm to Dandy Lion
If you don't have a pipe wrench or channel locks, run to Harbor Freight to buy a pipe wrench for under 10 bucks.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 4:50 pm to TU Rob
quote:
You may have a pressure issue.
Posted on 9/20/15 at 5:24 pm to Dandy Lion
sounds like the pressure relief valve is working fine and doing what it's designed to do. better get your water heater checked by someone who knows what they are doing before you have a fire
Posted on 9/20/15 at 5:27 pm to Dandy Lion
quote:
I´m under the house now, and don´t see one
You were posting from under your house? This has to be an OT first
Posted on 9/20/15 at 11:52 pm to stout
Out of curiosity,
Why do y'all drain the a/c condensation into the plumbing?
Is this just code for Louisiana? The south? Or for areas with poor soils compaction? What do you do for houses with septics on new construction if this is the case?
Out west, we use air handlers that are in the trusses and they drain them to the exterior of the house.
TIA
Why do y'all drain the a/c condensation into the plumbing?
Is this just code for Louisiana? The south? Or for areas with poor soils compaction? What do you do for houses with septics on new construction if this is the case?
Out west, we use air handlers that are in the trusses and they drain them to the exterior of the house.
TIA
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