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Started By
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Change ball joints and swing arm, how much???
Posted on 9/17/15 at 5:56 pm
Posted on 9/17/15 at 5:56 pm
2006 F150. Front ball joints and swing arm. How much am I looking at to fix this? Tia
3
Posted on 9/17/15 at 7:30 pm to fishbig
Both on each side?
They can and probably will order the control arms with bushings already pressed in. Parts go from $25 to $225 each, so you're looking at between $200 and $1000 in parts alone (markup). Big stretch on just parts
No idea on labor because I haven't seen them, but they'd probably charge 2-4hrs each side at $75-100/hr.
Eta: Forgot to add $75-100 for the alignment afterwards
They can and probably will order the control arms with bushings already pressed in. Parts go from $25 to $225 each, so you're looking at between $200 and $1000 in parts alone (markup). Big stretch on just parts
No idea on labor because I haven't seen them, but they'd probably charge 2-4hrs each side at $75-100/hr.
Eta: Forgot to add $75-100 for the alignment afterwards
This post was edited on 9/18/15 at 12:47 am
Posted on 9/17/15 at 7:33 pm to fishbig
If you're mechanically inclined and motivated you can do it yourself for about $150. No idea when it comes to the shop though.
Posted on 9/17/15 at 7:41 pm to Hammertime
Wow! Not what I was hoping to hear. Thanks for the response.
Posted on 9/17/15 at 7:51 pm to fishbig
Just do it yourself. Buy one of these:
Shitty bead breaker, but the best balljoint remover money can buy. Put a jack under the balljoint, lift. One hit with this baby and off.
Job isn't that bad, and if you hustle it doesn't take long either.
Shitty bead breaker, but the best balljoint remover money can buy. Put a jack under the balljoint, lift. One hit with this baby and off.
Job isn't that bad, and if you hustle it doesn't take long either.
Posted on 9/17/15 at 7:58 pm to X123F45
Old tire hands used to call that Michael Jackson. I'd like to see a vid of you removing a ball joint with that slide hammer, I've never heard of it. Better yet installing a new one. Don't use a torch, did that once and barely survived bj went boom.
Posted on 9/17/15 at 8:22 pm to White Bear
I do my lower ones with a 5lb maul. Works way better and faster than a press, but if you're changing out the entire arm, you don't have to worry about that
Posted on 9/17/15 at 9:39 pm to fishbig
Study the job on youtube or go to "Ford Truck Forums", look up the category it fits in and there will be somebody who has done it and gone through all the issues, etc. I did mine on my F-250 like that, they had a pdf download showed you the homemade tools and every you would need.
Parts are going to be a killer, go with MOOG for the parts, should be able to get all of them at Orielly if you plan ahead and don't try to buy them that morning.
Study videos, etc, multiple times. Go look at it and plan it out, follow the steps, and you should be fine.
Parts are going to be a killer, go with MOOG for the parts, should be able to get all of them at Orielly if you plan ahead and don't try to buy them that morning.
Study videos, etc, multiple times. Go look at it and plan it out, follow the steps, and you should be fine.
Posted on 9/18/15 at 12:41 am to White Bear
quote:
. I'd like to see a vid of you removing a ball joint with that slide hammer, I've never heard of it. Better yet installing a new one. Don't use a torch, did that once and barely survived bj went boom.
Removing really is simple. Put the nut on the ball joint, jack up the vehicle with all the weight resting on the nut. Place bead breaker near balljoint on arm, one hit and it's free.
As for install, freeze the balljoints overnight and point a heatgun at the arm for 20 minutes or so.
You could damn near set em in.
Posted on 9/18/15 at 9:24 am to X123F45
Thanks for the tips. I muscled mine out and in on my Tacoma and having the lower control arm off I looked like a monkey humping a football.
Posted on 9/18/15 at 9:56 am to White Bear
check amazon for the parts. Ive been buying parts from amazon instead of the local stores and it is much much cheaper.
Posted on 9/18/15 at 10:15 am to diat150
rockauto is easier, cheaper a lot of the time, and gives you more choices in one drop down thing. Just click brand, year, model, engine, part, and you get a bunch of choices
I think I'm about to buy loaded LCAs today. Bushings are 11 years old and squeaking bad
Here's a screenshot for my truck. There are six different brands to choose from
I think I'm about to buy loaded LCAs today. Bushings are 11 years old and squeaking bad
Here's a screenshot for my truck. There are six different brands to choose from
This post was edited on 9/18/15 at 10:23 am
Posted on 9/18/15 at 10:29 am to Hammertime
On this note, my truck has lately been squeaking more often than not when I hit any kind of bump (so pretty much the whole road). Thinking it might be shocks, ball joints?
Posted on 9/18/15 at 10:58 am to jimbeam
Grease all of the joints and see what happens. I have a squeak that I absolutely, 100% cannot locate. I have tried probably 10 or 15 times, two shops have tried. The only old thing on there is the lower bushings. It is just here to stay I guess.
Just went and wiggled my tires, and three of the Moog joints have already gone bad. Clunked pretty bad on a locked turn this morning from both sides. One after 10k, and two after 20k. Looks like I got some of their Chinese junk that they have been selling the past couple of years. That's odd because I grease them every month or two and got the problem solver ones
Just went and wiggled my tires, and three of the Moog joints have already gone bad. Clunked pretty bad on a locked turn this morning from both sides. One after 10k, and two after 20k. Looks like I got some of their Chinese junk that they have been selling the past couple of years. That's odd because I grease them every month or two and got the problem solver ones
This post was edited on 9/18/15 at 11:11 am
Posted on 9/18/15 at 1:32 pm to Hammertime
I put NAPA bushings and greaseable lower ball joint in the Tacoma, so we will see. Bushings made in japan, BJ's in China. Lifetime warranty (supposedly). Those loaded control arms look cheap for the Chevy - compared to what I spent on my parts.
This post was edited on 9/18/15 at 1:33 pm
Posted on 9/18/15 at 1:56 pm to White Bear
The problem with lifetime warrantied ball joints is that you still have to take them off to swap them out (not quick or easy). Gonna need a ride to do all of that too. Manufacturers know it is a selling point and people rarely bring back the bad ones because it's only a $50 part
I think I might try out XRF joints and Energy Suspension bushings this time around. I know being in New Orleans + me driving isn't too conducive for extended ball joint life, but 10 and 20k is bullshite
I think I might try out XRF joints and Energy Suspension bushings this time around. I know being in New Orleans + me driving isn't too conducive for extended ball joint life, but 10 and 20k is bullshite
Posted on 9/18/15 at 2:19 pm to Hammertime
I hear you on the warranty. Yeah, 10K is BS. Hell I got 170K from my OEM and the ball joints were still good, just leaking a little and not greaseable. I kept them though jic.
Yeah, 10K is BS. Hell I got 170K from my OEM and the ball joints were still good, just leaking a little and not greaseable. I kept them though jic.
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