- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Another F-250 Thread - Used 2003 King Ranch with 6.0L
Posted on 11/18/12 at 7:26 pm
Posted on 11/18/12 at 7:26 pm
Ok guys... This has probably been discussed, but you can't have too many truck threads.
I am looking at buying a F250 Super Crew King Ranch 6.0L Diesel 4x4. From the guy: The truck is in immaculate shape and is loaded. Heated/Power Seats, 4 bucket seats, cruise, AC/Heat, 6 Disc changer, 142K miles. Asking $14,000. There have been zero mechanical issues with the truck.
From the little reading I've done it sounds like some people have had issues with it, but not everyone. Do any of you have any knowledge or first hand experience? I plan to get an oasis or carfax report for the truck.
I am looking at buying a F250 Super Crew King Ranch 6.0L Diesel 4x4. From the guy: The truck is in immaculate shape and is loaded. Heated/Power Seats, 4 bucket seats, cruise, AC/Heat, 6 Disc changer, 142K miles. Asking $14,000. There have been zero mechanical issues with the truck.
From the little reading I've done it sounds like some people have had issues with it, but not everyone. Do any of you have any knowledge or first hand experience? I plan to get an oasis or carfax report for the truck.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 7:45 pm to lsufishnhunt
The people I know with 6.0s either had huge problems by 80k miles or didn't have a problem until 180k
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:27 pm to lsufishnhunt
DO NOT BUY A 6.0! Especially an '03 (the first year they made them) like the last guy said, lots of problems with them. If you look hard enough you can find an 03' with the 7.3L and have much fewer issues with it in the long run. If you offered me a 6.0 with 30,000 miles and a 7.3 with 250,000 miles I'm taking the 7.3.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:50 pm to rhodester
What he said. The 7.3 is wayyy more reliable than the 6.0.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:53 pm to lsufishnhunt
Offer him $7000, keep the rest to cover repairs
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:55 pm to Nodust
Gonna cost a pretty penny to make it reliable enough in the long run
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:56 pm to lsufishnhunt
If you're buying from a dealer, do what NoDust said. Bet he bites. They have a VERY hard time getting rid of those 6.0's and for good reason.
Once you fix the issues they are some bad bitches though. The problem with em is that they were made to have the dog shite ran out of them. They don't handle putting around in traffic well. They need to be wound up and literally have the soot blown out every now and then.
Once you fix the issues they are some bad bitches though. The problem with em is that they were made to have the dog shite ran out of them. They don't handle putting around in traffic well. They need to be wound up and literally have the soot blown out every now and then.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:00 pm to rhodester
I owned a 7.3 and it's a great motor.
I currently own a 6.0 Lariat. I have had no trouble BUT I am religious about oil changes and fuel filter changes. From all that i have read, and that's a lot, keeping everything clean is the key.
If you don't run a tuner, you don't need the head studs.
The problem with them is the coolant and the EGR. A coolant bypass filter is must. EGR delete also would be nice.
I currently own a 6.0 Lariat. I have had no trouble BUT I am religious about oil changes and fuel filter changes. From all that i have read, and that's a lot, keeping everything clean is the key.
If you don't run a tuner, you don't need the head studs.
The problem with them is the coolant and the EGR. A coolant bypass filter is must. EGR delete also would be nice.
This post was edited on 11/18/12 at 9:03 pm
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:01 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
They need to be wound up and literally have the soot blown out every now and then.
I hit 100 mph in my truck yesterday on the Mississippi back roads while passing a log truck. It feels good to turn them horses loose and blow some black smoke every once in a while.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:18 pm to El Josey Wales
Go to powerstroke.org to learn everything about those trucks. With proper maintenance they are good trucks.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:20 pm to lsufishnhunt
quote:
6.0L
I wouldn't touch that with your 10ft pole.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:29 pm to El Josey Wales
One of the problem with the 6 leaker is the variable vane turbo. If you don't run the shite out of that motor and get the EGTs up high enough to cook the soot out of it, the vanes soot up and frick the turbo all up, leading you to a nice new turbo purchase.
The high pressure oil pump and EGR valve are really the only two things you need to look out for if you take care of them well.
ETA: The 6 liter was designed to be a hard-run engine. The people I know who've had good luck with them pull heavy and often with them.
The people who've had theirs in the shop more than on the road sat it in traffic a whole lot.
The high pressure oil pump and EGR valve are really the only two things you need to look out for if you take care of them well.
ETA: The 6 liter was designed to be a hard-run engine. The people I know who've had good luck with them pull heavy and often with them.
The people who've had theirs in the shop more than on the road sat it in traffic a whole lot.
This post was edited on 11/18/12 at 9:34 pm
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:47 pm to brass2mouth
Sounds like I should probably stay away from it....
Thanks for the help guys
Thanks for the help guys
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:51 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I had a buddy who went through 3-6.0 liters. He only used his truck to pull his 42ft Fountain though. Grenaded one in the mountains of North Carolina.
My buddy's dad chipped his and used it in New Orleans mainly. He did pull a big bass boat to TX every couple of months though. Had to end up getting a new motor after 60k
I take it as kinda like a crap shoot. Some blow motors, some don't. Big chance to take IMO
My buddy's dad chipped his and used it in New Orleans mainly. He did pull a big bass boat to TX every couple of months though. Had to end up getting a new motor after 60k
I take it as kinda like a crap shoot. Some blow motors, some don't. Big chance to take IMO
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:10 pm to Hammertime
takes $4k to bullet proof a 6.0 but then you're good to go.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:16 pm to Hammertime
Stay away from the 'early' 6.0L or as we call them 'sick-O.
Go with a 7.3L if all possible BUT they are hard to find.
If you do go with a 6.0L engine, buy as cheap as possible. You will have to spend about $5-6K just to get it back to good.
Usually you are going to have change out the FICM(Fuel Injection Control Module, about $550).
HOP(High Oil Pressure pump, about $600).
Fuel Injectors(8 injectors will run about $1800).
Go back with an oil cooler replace kit($300).
You may have to redo the head-gaskets, go with ARP stud kit(around $500),and go with back with OE headgaskets(about $175 per side), stay away from the after-market crap like Black Oynx(they are useless).
Plus go with a EGR delete kit(around $150).
BTW, get a good Ford DIESEL mechanic to do the work.
Stay away from the jake-leg mechanics who worked on a diesel 5 years ago. He will most likely screw-up your engine.
The diesels, after 2003, are a brand-new ball game
Go with a 7.3L if all possible BUT they are hard to find.
If you do go with a 6.0L engine, buy as cheap as possible. You will have to spend about $5-6K just to get it back to good.
Usually you are going to have change out the FICM(Fuel Injection Control Module, about $550).
HOP(High Oil Pressure pump, about $600).
Fuel Injectors(8 injectors will run about $1800).
Go back with an oil cooler replace kit($300).
You may have to redo the head-gaskets, go with ARP stud kit(around $500),and go with back with OE headgaskets(about $175 per side), stay away from the after-market crap like Black Oynx(they are useless).
Plus go with a EGR delete kit(around $150).
BTW, get a good Ford DIESEL mechanic to do the work.
Stay away from the jake-leg mechanics who worked on a diesel 5 years ago. He will most likely screw-up your engine.
The diesels, after 2003, are a brand-new ball game
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:20 pm to Reubaltaich
Is all the things you just listed = bulletproofing?
I've heard that term used alot concerning these motors but never really looked into what it entails.
I've heard that term used alot concerning these motors but never really looked into what it entails.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:35 pm to El Josey Wales
quote:That was a pretty well discussed topic last week
BTW, get a good Ford DIESEL mechanic to do the work.
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:39 pm to El Josey Wales
quote:
Is all the things you just listed = bulletproofing?
I've heard that term used alot concerning these motors but never really looked into what it entails.
The term is derived from the company 'bulletproof' that sells EGR kits and oil coolers.
Bullet proofing is somewhat of a 'slang' term to get your diesel back to good.
Bulletproof makes an improved version of the EGR system as opposed to an EGR 'delete kit'.
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News