Going to Istanbul in December

My mom has been there repeatedly. She was just there in May on the way to Albania. Not much, but be aware that Taksim can become demonstration central:

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Booked an unfamiliar hotel around the totally familiar Taksim Square. Taksim, the regular site for any demonstrations going down in Istanbul, has a water cannon permanently stationed on the edge of the huge cobblestoned area. Full-on armored car and heavily-armed-ready-to-go-this-moment anti-terror guys discreetly (somewhat) stationed down the block.

Checked into my Istanbul boutique hotel (16 rooms) to discover it even has a piano player in the tiny lobby on Saturday nights. What a nice guy! I was the only one there when he started to play so we could discreetly talk politics. We zipped up when anybody else checked in or hung around. [P.S. The internet cafe where I was hired for Afghanistan in 2007 is about 500 ft away. Ah, the memories. Where it "all" started.]

There was a BIG pro-Palestinian demo on the 2nd day. The talks were at a venue right on the square so predictably, hundreds of riot police were on hand to set up barricades during the previous night and in the morning. Since I'm old and grey they are invariably nice to me and let me thru the gates. Was great while Taksim traffic was diverted. No car horns blaring. Turks honk away all night long, let me tell you. The night before demos it was so quiet you could hear a cricket chirp. Usually windowpanes are rattling at 0330 (AM).

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On the way back, she mentioned going to Galata Tower near Taksim. This is the bit from her first trip through there this year. Not much substantive, but she's been so many times she leaves out things she's mentioned before.

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Istanbul. Turkish cuisine. My favorite. Too much to eat, which I didn't - because I had to fit into airline seats. My non-touristy Istanbul neighborhood had baklava shops, others selling cheese pastries or Turkish pizza. There are cafeterias (chains) which display all options in warming dishes in the window. Pleasurable to the eyes, quite appetizing to merely look at.

Choose a main course (or TWO!) then cruise down the line past various salads, soups, pilafs, desserts (don't look, eyes down, keep moving) and as much bread as you want. A feed at one of these cafeterias can easily cost less than $10. I saw very poor-looking, threadbare Chinese ladies grab a thrifty meal: bowl of soup, some tea and a pile of bread for the equivalent of a couple of dollars.

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And this from a few years ago re: the new airport:

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My Turkish Air to Istanbul and a Lufthansa to Munich.

We pushed back 25 minutes early. Full up; it looked like every seat was filled. Uneventful flight to Istanbul and I was able to experience the massive new Istanbul airport. It was both huge and an experience. Arriving at the far end of one of the spokes, I plodded up the spoke then across the center and to the end of another spoke.

If passing thru Istanbul's new Ataturk airport, make sure you allow 2 hours to change planes, or 1- 1/2 hours if you are a runner. The airport has been planned to highlight scores of luxury, duty-free shops and passengers are forced to walk by them on the way to other spokes. The spokes have some moving sidewalks, but the hub is on self-propulsion mode. Only airport workers zip around on scooters and Segways.

Eating joints (including Carl's Junior!) are on the second deck overlooking the retail area. There are no water fountains, but there are signs in the restrooms warning not to drink the water from the sinks. Paxs are forced to spend money on bottled water. The waiting areas are spacious and SO MUCH improved over the old airport. No longer are hundreds of exhausted 3rd & 4th worlders sitting on the floor at the gates to odd places. I know all about it because I was there with them on the way to Africa or Central Asia.

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I stayed at the Grand Hyatt near Taksim Square. It was very safe. I did see anti-American protests going on in the area but never had any issues while there. There were a couple of nice bars in the hotel and when we ate out there was alcohol consumed.

Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are wonderful to see as well as the Roman cisterns. All in the same area. It's a beautiful city. Amazing food. A boat on the Bosporus is a nice time as well. Uber is the way to get around the city.

Hit Cappadocia for a couple nights, do a hot air balloon ride, stay in a cave hotel, cheap flight from Istanbul. As for Istanbul we stayed at Movenpick Hotel which seemed fairly central, at least it was for all the wedding activities. Weddings are 3 days over there and one hell of a party. I second the river/dinner cruise

What is a hammam?
And you stayed at this hotel?

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What is a hammam?
And you stayed at this hotel?

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A hammam is a otherwise known as a Turkish bath. We went down every night before bed time. They have some good pictures on their website.

We spent three nights there a few years ago. Excellent location.

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Is alcohol banned there

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Turkey is predominantly Muslim but has a secular government and legal system. There are plenty of bars, wines and beers. Istanbul has more in common with Paris than say Cairo. But, even deeply Muslim Cairo has bars and liquor stores.

If possible, stay in/near Sultanahmet district. Yes, it is full of tourists but also sights. Ask hotel to book a private tour early in your stay. Then redo best stops on your own. For a coast stay in Turkey and go to Bodrum.

The besiktas neighborhood is a college area so lots of coffee shops and restaurants. There is Topkapi and Dolmabahçe palace that are cool to see. Dolmabahçe is in the Besiktas neighborhood.

There is a huge nightlife scene, it’s secular and Istanbul is very western. You’ll see a lot of incredibly covered up Muslim but those are Arab. There’s been a good bit of Arab infiltration over the years. While some of the Turks do choose to cover their heads, a lot don’t.

If you have time, find a good restaurant and just enjoy. Their dinners are hours long, lots of appetizers with fruit as a palate cleanser and then the main course and dessert and of course Turkish tea or coffee.

Turkish tea time is also an experience. Sit and have simit (sesame bagel but better— it’s a street food as well) and drink tea. It’s a good way to break up the walking

We did have a hard time on occasion getting an uber and would go with a regular taxi. If we were in a high traffic area the uber driver would pick up and then cancel.
Overall great trip, I’m biased, my wife is Turkish but it’s a beautiful country with a lot to offer.