Glysophate and Crepe Myrtles

quote:

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Should a few treatments of glyso on the remaining jasmine roots hurt the tree if I keep some distance?

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Should be okay.

I drilled holes in the stump of one and filled the holes with concentrated glyphosphate. Its still putting up shoots

EDIT: I miss read the OPs post. He is trying to kill Jasmine roots growing adjacent to his Crepe Myrtle. My response below is for killing Crepe Myrtles. One thing I will say about my experience with Triclopyr is that I had regular Nandinas growing into Encore Azalea bushes. Triclopyr will kill both. I had to basically paint the Triclopyr onto some of the Nandina leaves. Any drops that accidentally touched Azalea leaves, I immediately cut those leaves off. Three weeks later the Nandinas were dead and the Azaleas were fine. So whatever poison the OP uses, I would be super careful to not get any poison on Crepe Myrtle leaves or root suckers.


Per an AI response: To effectively kill Crepe Myrtle, consider using a systemic herbicide like triclopyr or a phenoxy herbicide such as 2,4-D or dicamba. These herbicides can target the plant's roots, preventing regrowth. You can also use sucker stoppers which are plant growth regulators.

I've used Fertilome Brush Killer/Stump Killer to kill practically impossible to kill regular Nandinas recently. It contains 8.8% Triclopyr and did the job, but it took several weeks. I had tried Tractor Supply's Glyphosphate product about a month before and it did nothing to kill the regular Nandinas.

Fertilome Brush Killer/Stump Killer has a much higher percentage of Triclopyr compared to Roundup Poison Ivy/Tough Brush Killer which has the following active ingredients:
Triclopyr, triethylamine salt ... 0.122%
Fluazifop-P-butyl ... 0.097%
Diquat dibromide ... 0.073%

I was at a Garden center that had other Triclopyr products in higher percentages than Fertilome. All were pretty expensive.

I'm not saying Triclopyr will work on Crepe Myrtles but an AI response using a Google search said it would, and Triclopyr killed my regular Nandina bushes which are as hard to kill as Bamboo.

Just trying to kill the Asian Jasmine ground cover, not the Crepe even tho it’s a lame tree. It looks decent.

Jasmine is the absolute worst. Back breaking work this morning with a chain saw, reciprocating saw and hedge trimmers. Just brutal.

I'll tell you one thing, you ain't killing that asian jasmine or that crepe myrtle with glyphosate

What about MSM*?

The good kind with another vowel on the end?

Might know a guy.

A dense Nandina thicket is almost impossible to remove manually. I had previously tried to dig up a 20' wide and long dense Nandina group. I was digging up the root mat by brute force with a pick mattock. I thought I had it all dug out. However, even an inch of a piece of root will grow back a Nandina bush. After applying Glyphosphate failed I went to a local garden nursery and they told me to use Triclopyr. It actually worked to kill the Nandinas but it is slow. After more than a week I was about to give up but maybe in about two weeks later I could tell it was starting to work. If the Triclopyr had failed I was going to cover the Nandinas under a Tarp for a year. I had also thought about renting a Tiller to better dig up the entire root mat. It's interesting that your yard guy used a stump grinder to kill the Nandinas. I'll keep that in my memory bank.

Triclopyr is going to be my first choice to try and kill any woody bushes, trees or vines that I can't successfully get rid of manually like a cluster of Nandinas. I live on heavily wooded acreage. I usually just rip out vines or cut them down with a brush cutter. For bushes I don't want, I usually just pull them out of the ground using a come along winch and axe. I also use my Echo PAS 225 weed eater to take out thousands of new tree sprouts twice a year in the areas I don't want any more trees or any plants growing.