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Started By
Message
Do these Door Armor things really work to slow down door kicking?
Posted on 2/4/25 at 1:17 pm
Posted on 2/4/25 at 1:17 pm
We live in a quiet relatively safe area but there was a break in near my home recently for the first time in the ten years we've lived here. Not surprisingly, it comes after the a-hole at the end of our road decided to start renting his place to others, which has brought some trash in and out periodically. My 3% interest rate is more enticing than moving so we're staying put but I want to know if these things really do slow down the process of kicking in a door. My idea is to buy a bit of time if something does begin to go down.
I understand the idea behind this product and it seems like it would work, at least looking at this on the surface level but am I missing anything?
I understand the idea behind this product and it seems like it would work, at least looking at this on the surface level but am I missing anything?
12
Posted on 2/4/25 at 1:31 pm to TDsngumbo
quote:
here was a break in near my home recently
quote:
My 3% interest rate is more enticing than moving
Sucks to be a poor.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 1:43 pm to greenbean
quote:
here was a break in near my home recently
quote:
My 3% interest rate is more enticing than moving
Sucks to be a poor.
Man, you're a fricking jackass.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 1:44 pm to TDsngumbo
just take a couple of 2" or 2 1/2" screws and put them into the strike plate to where they reach the stud instead of doing all that.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 1:46 pm to TDsngumbo
Don't have experience with Door Armor specifically, but I know my kids' school did something similar after some recent school shootings in our country. Had some expert evaluate the building for safety and that was one thing he recommended.
I do know just putting much longer screws, like 2-3" depending on door, into the strike plate and face plate of the door knob mechanism really can make it harder to kick through.
I do know just putting much longer screws, like 2-3" depending on door, into the strike plate and face plate of the door knob mechanism really can make it harder to kick through.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 1:47 pm to TheGodfather
quote:
just take a couple of 2" or 2 1/2" screws and put them into the strike plate to where they reach the stud instead of doing all that.
Juuuuuust beat me
Posted on 2/4/25 at 2:38 pm to slidingstop
Had a version of one of those in my 100+ year old rental home (600 sq ft) in DC when I lived there. Never tested it too much, but I did push on it a couple of times when the door was locked but my wife had latched that thing. I could see that thing withstanding a battering ram.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 3:30 pm to TDsngumbo
Posted on 2/4/25 at 3:49 pm to TDsngumbo
After having a back door kicked in several years ago, I installed something similar. It definitely made the door + frame much more solid. Get a model that's as thick as you can fit in. Some are really thin stamped metal.
I my case it's pretty much false security. Right next to that back door are floor to ceiling windows that can be smashed with little effort.
I my case it's pretty much false security. Right next to that back door are floor to ceiling windows that can be smashed with little effort.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 3:51 pm to TimeOutdoors
I like a Remington 870 Police Magnum with 7 in the tube 1 in the chamber and #4 buckshot
Door Armament.
Never mind, you said Door Armor.
Door Armament.
Never mind, you said Door Armor.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 10:28 pm to TDsngumbo
If you look at the research that's been done by the USCCA (US concealed carry association) they concluded that any security mechanism that prevents quick entry gives you the most important weapon in the arsenal - time. If it takes considerably longer for a would-be burglar to get into your house, they are lot more likely to move on and choose a different target. A random opportunistic criminal does not want to solve a rubix cube - they want a quick entry and a quick exit. So do everything in your power to make that process more timely and difficult:
1. Get a security system yard sign even if you don't have one
2. Add longer screws to the strike plates (as suggested)
3. Get motion lights and outdoor security cameras
4. Get a dog that will make noise if something is amiss
5. Get a security system
6. Take care of the threat if a criminal is dumb enough to come through that threshold with all the obstacles you placed in front of him/her
Good luck.
1. Get a security system yard sign even if you don't have one
2. Add longer screws to the strike plates (as suggested)
3. Get motion lights and outdoor security cameras
4. Get a dog that will make noise if something is amiss
5. Get a security system
6. Take care of the threat if a criminal is dumb enough to come through that threshold with all the obstacles you placed in front of him/her
Good luck.
Posted on 2/4/25 at 10:31 pm to bapple
Why is everyone so afraid
Posted on 2/4/25 at 10:55 pm to TDsngumbo
I do my own version of that with a piece of hot rolled 16ga steel that has hole cut to clear the deadbolt. I just use 1/2" screws to attach a strip of it to the inside of the jamb them set the door with 4" #10 screws and a tube of Loctite PL Ultra under the threshold.
This post was edited on 2/4/25 at 10:56 pm
Posted on 2/5/25 at 10:50 am to bapple
quote:
If you look at the research that's been done by the USCCA (US concealed carry association) they concluded that any security mechanism that prevents quick entry gives you the most important weapon in the arsenal - time.
That's exactly why I'm looking into these. I figure if it forces a criminal to make lots of noise and use more than a few kicks, it'll be enough time for me to get to my gun and be ready for their entry so they don't take me by surprise.
Posted on 2/5/25 at 9:08 pm to crewdepoo
quote:
Why is everyone so afraid
Creating barriers to prevent unwanted people from getting close to the beings that I value the most in my life? Yea, that's crazy talk. I'm with you.
Posted on 2/5/25 at 11:55 pm to TDsngumbo
The Door Jamb Armor EZ kits or whatever they call them that is all external is inexpensive, extremely quick and easy to install and will not be the failure point for a ramming entry attempt.
Just adding long screws can be effective against most kick-in attempts if screws are added to the hinges and deadbolt plate both, AND if the door itself is solid. I've tested it personally and with longer screws on the deadbolt but not the hinges you can easily cause a failure at the hinge side. With long screws on both sides you can cause a failure with repeated kicks against any door that isn't basically rock solid hard wood (the door will break or bend at the deadbolt and then the deadbolt can come out of the jamb and the door can be opened).
The DJA kits address all of these problems.
Just adding long screws can be effective against most kick-in attempts if screws are added to the hinges and deadbolt plate both, AND if the door itself is solid. I've tested it personally and with longer screws on the deadbolt but not the hinges you can easily cause a failure at the hinge side. With long screws on both sides you can cause a failure with repeated kicks against any door that isn't basically rock solid hard wood (the door will break or bend at the deadbolt and then the deadbolt can come out of the jamb and the door can be opened).
The DJA kits address all of these problems.
This post was edited on 2/5/25 at 11:57 pm
Posted on 2/6/25 at 9:29 pm to Huey Lewis
Thanks everyone. I’ve got a couple of these arriving tomorrow and looking forward to the additional peace of mind.
Posted on 2/7/25 at 9:43 am to TDsngumbo
This all just protects against shimming and doesn’t account for access techniques under the door.
Pry shield and jamb shield is on the wrong side imo. In testing I pry near the lock always.
The under the door techniques are faster and quieter than prying in the modern day.
If the door is wood then a sea-tac or fireman’s tool could still get in.
The choice of key way used would give more added security to picking because most private and commercial key ways are kwikset or Schlage anyway. They’re the cheapest.
Ironcially enough, barring the door at night from the inside is still a cheap and effective method to truly lock down the entry way.
Pry shield and jamb shield is on the wrong side imo. In testing I pry near the lock always.
The under the door techniques are faster and quieter than prying in the modern day.
If the door is wood then a sea-tac or fireman’s tool could still get in.
The choice of key way used would give more added security to picking because most private and commercial key ways are kwikset or Schlage anyway. They’re the cheapest.
Ironcially enough, barring the door at night from the inside is still a cheap and effective method to truly lock down the entry way.
Posted on 2/7/25 at 4:13 pm to hometownhero89
quote:
Ironcially enough, barring the door at night from the inside is still a cheap and effective method to truly lock down the entry way.
They also have flip down options that connect to the floor or wall that work roughly the same without looking like a medieval castle gate.
But as was said if you have an adjacent window they’ll just break that instead so visible cameras, lights and a multiple phase approach to making a home the hardest target on the block seems best.
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