Plumbing issue

Water can flow at smaller rates through a partially clogged line but the washing machine pumps a lot of water into the line at once. Your description of the symptoms is consistent with there being some sort of partial clogg in the line and the easiest path to relieve the pressure in the lines is the places you are seeing backup.

In my experience, this typically means there is a clog between the house and the sewer line st the street. It may be passing just enough to let it leak down overnight, but when you introduce a lot of water (washing machine dumps, flush toilet) it can’t keep up and blows back through your p-traps (gurgling). You may as well call a plumber, before it backs up in your bathtubs, etc.

Pull the toilet and snake it you can rent one from HD or buy one the cost about 600
A plumber is going to charge you 400 too 500 yo floor the same job and you get a tool out of the deal

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Pull the toilet and snake it

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Check to see if you have a clean out.

My recommendation is to bite the bullet and have as much for the cast iron, if not all, replaced. Average is about $400 per linear foot for them to dig and you do not want them to have to dig again

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Hownold is your house? Worst case is what i had and that was a collapsed cast iron pipe. That required a camera to find and then I had to replace all the cadt iron pipes. $20k later everything is fine

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This is my biggest fear right now. I just replaced a cast iron vent pipe for about $800 and then had to replace 1/2 the Sheetrock in my bathroom.

I know we have cast iron pipes and they’re probably fricked by this point. Was this the repair where they dig up half your yard to replace it?

We heard the toilet gurgle thing one time but our shower does drain slow.

I have a wife and two daughters with thick hair so I have no doubt that this plus all their soaps, shampoos and hair shite has attributed to build up somewhere. If I have to rip up bathroom slab, I may as well renovate the whole damn bathroom at that point

I have a snake that I could get about 30’. Only problem is if I have any kind of damaged pipe, that potentially makes the problem worse

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House was built in the 50’s. I live in a very small town. The house when built was on septic tank for years before city sewer was put in my street. Supposedly the house was suppose to be on city sewer but I found out last night that it is not on sewer but still in septic tank. Plumber came out last night and there is a blockage in the main sewer line. The sewer line is cast iron and will need to be replaced. It only about a 15-20 foot section. I got to talk to the water and sewer department Monday and find out what I get charged a sewer and admin sewer fee when I’m not on it.

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Update:

The house is on city sewer. The sewer line runs towards the old septic tank but makes a 45 degree turn. The plumber didn’t even noticed that and assumed it ran into the septic tank. The issue is the sewer line between the house and that 45 degree turn collapsed and has to be replaced. That same plumber quoted me to replace a 10 foot section, replace a couple short cast iron pipes under the house, and redo the drops (which is not needed) would take 4 days and cost me $9,500. I got a friend here right now that does pipe and small plumbing work replacing it and it is only costing me 1,500 and it will only take him a day and half or 2 days.

Jealous and happy for you