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Started By
Message
2024 Fall Garden Thread
Posted on 8/2/24 at 6:46 am
Posted on 8/2/24 at 6:46 am
Welcome to the 2024 Fall Garden Thread.
Here are some useful resource links:
Gardening info/learning:
Home Gardening Certificate Course
LSU AgCenter Main Page
LSU AgCenter Vegetable Planting Guide
Davesgarden.com
Seedsavers Exchange learning page
Epic gardening raised bed plans
I personally use the LSU AgCenter website and planting guide almost religiously. Davesgarden.com is really useful for their watchdog section which gathers ratings on different seed companies and nurseries. And the Seedsavers learning page is a very easy to use website that is great for beginners. It’s streamlined and very easy to understand.
Seed/plant websites:
Harris Seeds
Park Seed
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (rareseeds.com)
Reimer seeds
Gurney’s
Migardener.com
Here are some useful links to learn about different products for disease and pests:
Organic disease and pest management:
Neem Oil
Liquid Copper
Pyrethrin
Spinosad
Bacillus Thuringiensis
Hydrogen Peroxide / Hydrogen Peroxide mixing chart for garden use
Non-organic disease and pest management:
Fungicides:
Daconil
Mancozeb
Insecticides:
Bonide Eight (permethrin)
Sevin dust
Liquid Sevin (Zeta-Cypermethrin)
Target Planting Dates for common Louisiana Fall Vegetables:
(All of this is from the Planting Guide)
Beets (direct seed):
S LA 8/15 - 11/15
N LA 9/15 - 11/15
Broccoli:
S LA 8/1 - 10/31
N LA 8/1 - 10/31
Brussels Sprouts:
S LA 8/15 - 10/31
N LA 8/15 - 10/15
Cabbage:
S LA 8/15 - 11/30
N LA 8/1 - 11/30
Carrots (direct seed):
S LA 8/15 - 11/15
N LA 8/15 - 10/15
Cauliflower:
S LA 7/1 - 10/15
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Collards (direct seed):
S LA 7/15 - 10/31
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Garlic (cloves):
S LA 9/1 - 11/30
N LA 9/1 - 11/30
Mustard and Turnip Greens (direct seed):
S LA 7/15 - 11/10
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Kale (direct seed or plants):
S LA 7/15 - 11/15
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Lettuce (direct seed of plants):
S LA 9/15 - 11/15
N LA 9/15 - 10/30
Spinach (direct seed):
S LA 9/15 - 11/15
N LA 9/1 - 11/15
Allium Crops
Cole Crops
Squash and Pumpkins
If you want to grow pumpkins to have for Halloween, you have until July 10th according to the planting guide. Unfortunately that time has passed. I apologize for being late this year. If you get seeds in the ground ASAP you may get lucky.
For cucumbers, the planting guide gives fall planting dates (direct seed) of 8/1 - 9/15 for South LA, and 7/15 - 8/31 for North LA.
For tomatoes, if you do heat tolerant varieties you can start transplanting those in mid July. If you don't want to do heat tolerant varieties, you could start seeds mid July and transplant mid to late August. I'd recommend doing an "early" variety that way you have a greater chance of a high yield before the first frost. Once again I apologize for being a little late this year.
LSU Ag Fall Harvest Guide
Here are some useful resource links:
Gardening info/learning:
Home Gardening Certificate Course
LSU AgCenter Main Page
LSU AgCenter Vegetable Planting Guide
Davesgarden.com
Seedsavers Exchange learning page
Epic gardening raised bed plans
I personally use the LSU AgCenter website and planting guide almost religiously. Davesgarden.com is really useful for their watchdog section which gathers ratings on different seed companies and nurseries. And the Seedsavers learning page is a very easy to use website that is great for beginners. It’s streamlined and very easy to understand.
Seed/plant websites:
Harris Seeds
Park Seed
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (rareseeds.com)
Reimer seeds
Gurney’s
Migardener.com
Here are some useful links to learn about different products for disease and pests:
Organic disease and pest management:
Neem Oil
Liquid Copper
Pyrethrin
Spinosad
Bacillus Thuringiensis
Hydrogen Peroxide / Hydrogen Peroxide mixing chart for garden use
Non-organic disease and pest management:
Fungicides:
Daconil
Mancozeb
Insecticides:
Bonide Eight (permethrin)
Sevin dust
Liquid Sevin (Zeta-Cypermethrin)
Target Planting Dates for common Louisiana Fall Vegetables:
(All of this is from the Planting Guide)
Beets (direct seed):
S LA 8/15 - 11/15
N LA 9/15 - 11/15
Broccoli:
S LA 8/1 - 10/31
N LA 8/1 - 10/31
Brussels Sprouts:
S LA 8/15 - 10/31
N LA 8/15 - 10/15
Cabbage:
S LA 8/15 - 11/30
N LA 8/1 - 11/30
Carrots (direct seed):
S LA 8/15 - 11/15
N LA 8/15 - 10/15
Cauliflower:
S LA 7/1 - 10/15
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Collards (direct seed):
S LA 7/15 - 10/31
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Garlic (cloves):
S LA 9/1 - 11/30
N LA 9/1 - 11/30
Mustard and Turnip Greens (direct seed):
S LA 7/15 - 11/10
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Kale (direct seed or plants):
S LA 7/15 - 11/15
N LA 7/15 - 10/31
Lettuce (direct seed of plants):
S LA 9/15 - 11/15
N LA 9/15 - 10/30
Spinach (direct seed):
S LA 9/15 - 11/15
N LA 9/1 - 11/15
Allium Crops
Cole Crops
Squash and Pumpkins
If you want to grow pumpkins to have for Halloween, you have until July 10th according to the planting guide. Unfortunately that time has passed. I apologize for being late this year. If you get seeds in the ground ASAP you may get lucky.
For cucumbers, the planting guide gives fall planting dates (direct seed) of 8/1 - 9/15 for South LA, and 7/15 - 8/31 for North LA.
For tomatoes, if you do heat tolerant varieties you can start transplanting those in mid July. If you don't want to do heat tolerant varieties, you could start seeds mid July and transplant mid to late August. I'd recommend doing an "early" variety that way you have a greater chance of a high yield before the first frost. Once again I apologize for being a little late this year.
LSU Ag Fall Harvest Guide
15
Posted on 8/2/24 at 6:51 am to PillageUrVillage
Right now I still have watermelon and jalapenos growing in the summer garden. I planted some fall cucumbers last week and they are all coming up. Also have some butternut squash that I'm hoping to get some production out of before first frost.
I plan to start some cabbage seeds in a couple of weeks. Carrots in September. I don't know how much I'm going to plant this fall but I'll probably keep it pretty simple.
I plan to start some cabbage seeds in a couple of weeks. Carrots in September. I don't know how much I'm going to plant this fall but I'll probably keep it pretty simple.
This post was edited on 8/2/24 at 6:52 am
Posted on 8/2/24 at 7:27 am to PillageUrVillage
currently still getting eggplant but they’ve slowed down. Cantaloupe is winding down to the last few melons but watermelon is going gangbusters with babies everywhere. Incredibly still getting a few beefsteak tomatoes.
Okra is coming up but hasn’t flowered yet. Cucumbers started along with some misc peppers, we will see.
In the side bed I have a patch of mixed seed that I sowed back in June or July that is mostly beans and squash, it’s massive now and in full flower
plans for the fall include greens and turnips. I’m already being told we need more space…
Okra is coming up but hasn’t flowered yet. Cucumbers started along with some misc peppers, we will see.
In the side bed I have a patch of mixed seed that I sowed back in June or July that is mostly beans and squash, it’s massive now and in full flower
plans for the fall include greens and turnips. I’m already being told we need more space…
Posted on 8/2/24 at 9:12 am to PillageUrVillage
Looking at that list, I think beets and mustard are the only two I will try this Fall.
Posted on 8/2/24 at 10:06 am to AlxTgr
I’ll probably grow some mustard, but I may wait until closer to October to plant. The heat of August and September makes them bitter and the insect pressure is higher.
Posted on 8/2/24 at 10:05 pm to PillageUrVillage
I spent way too much time trying to figure out why there was a new thread symbol next to this thread.
Posted on 8/3/24 at 8:10 am to PillageUrVillage
Glad you started this. My spring summer garden was a disappointment. Looking forward to a fall garden.
Posted on 8/3/24 at 10:33 am to PillageUrVillage
Been waiting for this!! I’ve been “planning” to start a garden for a couple of years and keep getting stuck going down rabbit holes. I decided to just build the dang thing in the spring, was a hard project (did it all with a shovel and hand tools…renting a backhoe next time, too many stumps!). Here is before and after.
I have sent my soil sample to MS State and am waiting on the results. I’m in zone 8 (near Hattiesburg) and would like to do carrots, broccoli, and brussel sprouts as those are all things the family eats.
Any pointers for next steps? I know I need to get them in the ground soon (I think), but dang it is overwhelming sometimes with so much info out there and I don’t want to get stuck in another rabbit hole and miss another planting season.
I have sent my soil sample to MS State and am waiting on the results. I’m in zone 8 (near Hattiesburg) and would like to do carrots, broccoli, and brussel sprouts as those are all things the family eats.
Any pointers for next steps? I know I need to get them in the ground soon (I think), but dang it is overwhelming sometimes with so much info out there and I don’t want to get stuck in another rabbit hole and miss another planting season.
Posted on 8/3/24 at 7:07 pm to LSU Delirium
nice work!
carrots are easy, get the seed tape and you will ensure good spacing. I’d wait on all until it gets out of the 90’s for good
carrots are easy, get the seed tape and you will ensure good spacing. I’d wait on all until it gets out of the 90’s for good
Posted on 8/4/24 at 10:32 am to LSU Delirium
quote:
I’m in zone 8 (near Hattiesburg) and would like to do carrots, broccoli, and brussel sprouts as those are all things the family eats.
Just as cgrand said, carrots are easy. Looks like Hattiesburg is zone 8b. Which is the same as the North Louisiana dates above. So you could use that as a guide. Brussel sprouts take a long time to grow and are heavy feeders. So I’d probably get them in sooner rather than later. Broccoli you could wait until some cooler weather starts showing up.
Your boxes look great!
Posted on 8/4/24 at 10:39 am to cgrand
bean/squash/etc patch. There are bean and pea pods coming in, there’s some okra sprouting and at least two different squashes plenty of male flowers but no fruit yet.
since I don’t really know what all seeds were in the bag this will be a surprise as to what it eventually produces. The are gets about 1/2 day shade so maybe that will help since I planted it so late.
watermelon, cantaloupe
got the roof on the garden dojo
since I don’t really know what all seeds were in the bag this will be a surprise as to what it eventually produces. The are gets about 1/2 day shade so maybe that will help since I planted it so late.
watermelon, cantaloupe
got the roof on the garden dojo
Posted on 8/6/24 at 12:40 pm to cgrand
Well I guess I will get this party started and just start asking some slightly dumb questions, apologies (and thanks) in advance....I am thinking I will just focus on carrots (Upper box, bit more sun) and broccoli (lower box) for now, I want it to go well and not jump in to the deep end too quick.
I have read the guide linked above, and most everything else, and mostly following, but just getting seeds I already seem to be getting lost. For example, I am looking at carrots (orange), the guide says Danvers 126, Purple Haze (AAS), Thumbelina (AAS), Deep soils: Apache, Enterprise, Maverick, Navajo. I looked at Parkseed, Harris, and Reimer - I am only able to find Danvers 126. Am I missing something? I also only see two options for "carrot seed tape" (Little Finger and Rainbow), are seed tapes more limited or were you talking about some sort of tool for spacing them?
I am reading now about transplanting for the broccoli and will likely order those seeds today. I like the look of Gypsy so thinking those are what I will get.
Any insight into what my biggest challenge is likely to be (And how to prepare accordingly)? Bugs? Critters (We have deer here that keep eating my orange tree blooms, I think)? Anything else?
When you say "heavy feeders" I assume you mean they need more fertilizer?
I am troubleshooting my drip irrigation system (Upper box is much slower than lower box), but how do I know if they are getting enough water? None of the guides seem to mention how to tell.
Thanks for the support, excited about getting started on my gardening hobby/adventure.
I have read the guide linked above, and most everything else, and mostly following, but just getting seeds I already seem to be getting lost. For example, I am looking at carrots (orange), the guide says Danvers 126, Purple Haze (AAS), Thumbelina (AAS), Deep soils: Apache, Enterprise, Maverick, Navajo. I looked at Parkseed, Harris, and Reimer - I am only able to find Danvers 126. Am I missing something? I also only see two options for "carrot seed tape" (Little Finger and Rainbow), are seed tapes more limited or were you talking about some sort of tool for spacing them?
I am reading now about transplanting for the broccoli and will likely order those seeds today. I like the look of Gypsy so thinking those are what I will get.
Any insight into what my biggest challenge is likely to be (And how to prepare accordingly)? Bugs? Critters (We have deer here that keep eating my orange tree blooms, I think)? Anything else?
When you say "heavy feeders" I assume you mean they need more fertilizer?
I am troubleshooting my drip irrigation system (Upper box is much slower than lower box), but how do I know if they are getting enough water? None of the guides seem to mention how to tell.
Thanks for the support, excited about getting started on my gardening hobby/adventure.
Posted on 8/6/24 at 2:35 pm to LSU Delirium
seed tapes
these are for convenience remember, not required. Carrots are easy the seeds are just tiny.
otherwise, don’t overthink it. I find it’s easier to wing it and see what works (and what doesn’t).
Biggest factor in success is your foundation (soil, water, sun). If it gets good sun, enough water, and rich organic soil you are 90% there
these are for convenience remember, not required. Carrots are easy the seeds are just tiny.
otherwise, don’t overthink it. I find it’s easier to wing it and see what works (and what doesn’t).
Biggest factor in success is your foundation (soil, water, sun). If it gets good sun, enough water, and rich organic soil you are 90% there
Posted on 8/6/24 at 8:58 pm to cgrand
quote:
don’t overthink it.
Not one of my strengths. Thanks again…here we go!
Posted on 8/7/24 at 6:39 am to PillageUrVillage
I planted seedless watermelons but they all had a lot of seeds.
Is that’s just shitty seed stock or did a do something wrong
Is that’s just shitty seed stock or did a do something wrong
Posted on 8/7/24 at 8:47 am to skidry
Last fall I planted carrots that did great, along with radishes that did great. Collards and greens sprouted nicely but never grew well. I just ordered seeds for carrots, I got some of the thumbelina ones too as that may be fun. Radishes were not used last year so not again. I also got two types of mustard. I lover mustard and hope I can figure it out. Also got leaf lettuce. That will be my plantings.
Posted on 8/7/24 at 6:15 pm to LSU Delirium
quote:
I have read the guide linked above, and most everything else, and mostly following, but just getting seeds I already seem to be getting lost. For example, I am looking at carrots (orange), the guide says Danvers 126, Purple Haze (AAS), Thumbelina (AAS), Deep soils: Apache, Enterprise, Maverick, Navajo. I looked at Parkseed, Harris, and Reimer - I am only able to find Danvers 126. Am I missing something? I also only see two options for "carrot seed tape" (Little Finger and Rainbow), are seed tapes more limited or were you talking about some sort of tool for spacing them?
I’ve never done the seed tape. I just sprinkle seeds lightly in a small trench and thin out any that end up too close together after they’ve sprouted. I’ve always grown Danvers and they’re great. I’ve tried a couple other varieties, too. But I just stick with the Danvers. Can’t go wrong with them.
quote:
Any insight into what my biggest challenge is likely to be (And how to prepare accordingly)? Bugs? Critters (We have deer here that keep eating my orange tree blooms, I think)? Anything else?
Biggest threat will be caterpillars. Most likely the cross-striped cabbage worm and armyworm, but also other could be a problem. Get some Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT, thuricide) and spray weekly and that should keep them in check.
quote:
When you say "heavy feeders" I assume you mean they need more fertilizer?
Correct. I’d put in a good balanced slow release fertilizer before planting and side dress with calcium nitrate every few weeks or so. Read the Cole Crop link in the OP for more info.
Posted on 8/7/24 at 6:17 pm to skidry
quote:
I planted seedless watermelons but they all had a lot of seeds. Is that’s just shitty seed stock or did a do something wrong
I’ve heard of a lot of incorrectly labeled seed and plant incidents over the spring. Mostly with peppers but with other stuff, too. I’m thinking that may be what happened here.
Posted on 8/8/24 at 7:29 am to LSU Delirium
In peak Summer garden mode here and trying to figure out my Fall plan (Ozarks)
Only one melon left to ripen, should I replace melons with 1.) More melons and hope for a warm October 2.) Beans 3.) Beets?
Tomatoes are about 70% done and I’m a few weeks away from tons of sweet peppers.
Only one melon left to ripen, should I replace melons with 1.) More melons and hope for a warm October 2.) Beans 3.) Beets?
Tomatoes are about 70% done and I’m a few weeks away from tons of sweet peppers.
Posted on 8/8/24 at 8:19 am to LSUfan20005
Going to leave the black eyed peas as a cover crop as long as i can. I need to move the fall tomatoes because the Spring spot appears to be a blight hotspot.
Nursery has tomato seedlings for fall currently. Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Brussel Sprouts should be coming soon. Wish i could find some seed potatoes for a fall crop. I will try some fall green beans once it gets alittle cooler.
Nursery has tomato seedlings for fall currently. Broccoli, Cauliflower, and Brussel Sprouts should be coming soon. Wish i could find some seed potatoes for a fall crop. I will try some fall green beans once it gets alittle cooler.
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