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Started By
Message
Custom Light Weight Jon Boat?
Posted on 1/29/24 at 7:43 pm
Posted on 1/29/24 at 7:43 pm
Im wanting to get a 16x36 bare bones jon built. Thin .050 aluminum. Looking for something that will float as shallow as possible with two guys and can easily be drug across an inch of water. I already have a 1436 that works well but would like more displacement while adding minimum weight.
Is there anybody building that sort of thing?
Any big manufacturers still selling a riveted one?
Is there anybody building that sort of thing?
Any big manufacturers still selling a riveted one?
This post was edited on 1/29/24 at 7:47 pm
Posted on 1/29/24 at 7:50 pm to Toledo
Have you considered a canoe? Serious question.
Posted on 1/29/24 at 7:55 pm to Che Boludo
Running a 6.5hp surface drive. Basically, situation is run a mile, drag through 20 yards of 1" water, run a mile.
Posted on 1/29/24 at 7:59 pm to Toledo
I know the YT video you watched. You them fellas who were pissed off?
Posted on 1/29/24 at 8:00 pm to GREENHEAD22
Now we need a link to said video.
Posted on 1/29/24 at 8:04 pm to LSUengr
I think my stripped down 1436 is already lighter and floating shallower than a gheenoe.


Posted on 1/29/24 at 8:06 pm to Toledo
2.5 to 5hp motor on a canoe seems a good option. But, honestly, if it's only 20yds in shallow water, you really have lots of options.
Posted on 1/29/24 at 8:23 pm to Toledo
you'll likely never find one because they have a cult following and are skyrocketing in value by the year for the old ones, but a Grumman Sportboat - not a Grumman flatback canoe- is ideal for what you're talking about.
I've owned two, on my 2nd one now, and will never get rid of it. I've run everything from 12hp gear reduction mudbuddy longtails to 8hp Honda 4 strokes on them. I'd have no premonitions about putting an ultralight surface drive on it. they'll draft in inches of water like a 1436 jon boat, but the difference is they have a load capacity of a thousand + pounds, and will draft in inches of water with it, also being fine rowing boats for drift fishing/jump shooting in creeks.
if you find one, get it. if you use it, you'll never get shed of it. it's the ultimate bulletproof, skinny water, outdoorsman watercraft.
I've owned two, on my 2nd one now, and will never get rid of it. I've run everything from 12hp gear reduction mudbuddy longtails to 8hp Honda 4 strokes on them. I'd have no premonitions about putting an ultralight surface drive on it. they'll draft in inches of water like a 1436 jon boat, but the difference is they have a load capacity of a thousand + pounds, and will draft in inches of water with it, also being fine rowing boats for drift fishing/jump shooting in creeks.
if you find one, get it. if you use it, you'll never get shed of it. it's the ultimate bulletproof, skinny water, outdoorsman watercraft.
Posted on 1/30/24 at 1:08 am to deeprig9
quote:
Have you considered a 14x48?
....
quote:
Basically, situation is run a mile, drag through 20 yards of 1" water, run a mile.
I wanna know why he hasn't considered just going faster.
Posted on 1/30/24 at 7:03 am to Toledo
Just asking because you didn’t mention it… Have you tried adding gator glide to the hull?
Posted on 1/30/24 at 8:00 am to Cypressknee
Main need for now is a little bigger boat while keeping it light. I know Lowe was making a thin skinned 1636 as late as 2015 but not anymore.
If I can find what I want, I probably will do gator glide just to help with the dragging.
Do none of the custom builders work with .050? Too thin to weld consistently?
If I can find what I want, I probably will do gator glide just to help with the dragging.
Do none of the custom builders work with .050? Too thin to weld consistently?
Posted on 1/30/24 at 8:09 am to Toledo
.08 can't be that much heavier
Posted on 1/30/24 at 8:31 am to Park duck
The one Lowe was making was .043 so almost twice as heavy. Easily 100lb difference. If im going to be dragging that, would at least rather it be in a bigger motor.
Posted on 1/30/24 at 8:35 am to Toledo
Yeah I would think .100-.125 would be about as thin as you will find in the custom market due to welding. Adding gator glide to your current boat would greatly reduce the effort to drag. I had some on a 1232 that I ran with 6 hp long tail. You could drag it really easily after the glide and you could run it up all the way out the water under its own power.
Posted on 1/30/24 at 12:04 pm to bayoudude
The gator glide is a good suggestion. Made a big difference on dragging my boat.
Posted on 1/30/24 at 12:40 pm to bayoudude
I've built a few aluminum pirogues out of .080 and a few smaller surface drive rigs out of .100 over the years. When I was still building a few boats, last guy I had wanting a .100 hull I told him .125 was as light as I'd go.
I had broke a sheet of .080 to build a little sneak hull type set up I wanted to try. It was a 14' sheet I, crimped thr bottomed and bent it to be 1424, with 12" sides. It sat in my shop for years. End of last summer I was trying to clean up a bit to list our place to sell, I decided to go ahead and finish that thing rather than just move and store the bent sheet again. Didn't have thr need for the sneak boat amy longer as I just don't duck hunt anywhere like that anymore, so I just built a 1424 surface strive style little hull out of it, I figured I could drag around behind me to haul crawfish traps or what not. I had forgotten what a pain in the arse working with .080 is.
I had broke a sheet of .080 to build a little sneak hull type set up I wanted to try. It was a 14' sheet I, crimped thr bottomed and bent it to be 1424, with 12" sides. It sat in my shop for years. End of last summer I was trying to clean up a bit to list our place to sell, I decided to go ahead and finish that thing rather than just move and store the bent sheet again. Didn't have thr need for the sneak boat amy longer as I just don't duck hunt anywhere like that anymore, so I just built a 1424 surface strive style little hull out of it, I figured I could drag around behind me to haul crawfish traps or what not. I had forgotten what a pain in the arse working with .080 is.
Posted on 1/30/24 at 2:29 pm to Toledo
quote:
I think my stripped down 1436 is already lighter and floating shallower than a gheenoe.
Probably close but if you can find an original 13' low sider it would be about the same weight but would float in less water and be more stable and handle a chop under power. If you are talking about strapping a mud motor on one though, either a surface drive or a long tail, if possible I'd try to test drive one if you can. Surface drives are too heavy as far back as the driver has to be in a Gheenoe for the low sider and long tails are squirrely as hell with a Gheenoe. I have an original 13 foot low sider and it will float on a wet lawn and I have stood up and shot out of it for years with no problem, but when you hand any motor on the back it becomes a problem.
Posted on 1/30/24 at 2:32 pm to mudshuvl05
quote:
you'll likely never find one because they have a cult following and are skyrocketing in value by the year for the old ones, but a Grumman Sportboat - not a Grumman flatback canoe- is ideal for what you're talking about.
I've owned two, on my 2nd one now, and will never get rid of it. I've run everything from 12hp gear reduction mudbuddy longtails to 8hp Honda 4 strokes on them. I'd have no premonitions about putting an ultralight surface drive on it. they'll draft in inches of water like a 1436 jon boat, but the difference is they have a load capacity of a thousand + pounds, and will draft in inches of water with it, also being fine rowing boats for drift fishing/jump shooting in creeks.
if you find one, get it. if you use it, you'll never get shed of it. it's the ultimate bulletproof, skinny water, outdoorsman watercraft.
They are excellent at what they are designed to do...haul large loads a long way in skinny water. They are also pretty damned impressive in seas that a jon boat would get you killed in. They are readily available in the pacific northwest. Far more available than used jon boats in the south in my experience.
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