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Under stair renovation
Posted on 8/24/23 at 7:21 am
Posted on 8/24/23 at 7:21 am
I posted this a few days ago but did a poor job explaining the issue.
I’m trying to increase the ceiling height under my stair landing and add an exterior door to the side of the house.
The 3D models below should do a better job of explaining what I’m proposing.
The before pictures show the beams I would need to change in green (2” x 12” lumber).
The proposed renovation shows the new support walls and 2” x 4”s in red and an exterior opening for a door. A LVL beam over the door is in blue.
My main questions are: Do you think this is structurally sound? Are there any issues I might have with code violations?
https://i.imgur.com/wvv4ans.png
I’m trying to increase the ceiling height under my stair landing and add an exterior door to the side of the house.
The 3D models below should do a better job of explaining what I’m proposing.
The before pictures show the beams I would need to change in green (2” x 12” lumber).
The proposed renovation shows the new support walls and 2” x 4”s in red and an exterior opening for a door. A LVL beam over the door is in blue.
My main questions are: Do you think this is structurally sound? Are there any issues I might have with code violations?
https://i.imgur.com/wvv4ans.png
Posted on 8/24/23 at 7:32 am to Knuckle Checker
You don’t need multiple threads
Posted on 8/24/23 at 7:49 am to Knuckle Checker
quote:
Do you think this is structurally sound?
Not to sound like a jerk, but shouldn’t your structural engineer (civil engineer) be answering this question for you rather than strangers on the internet? A job like this will need a permit, and I would imagine a PE to sign off on it.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 7:59 am to MikeBRLA
quote:
Not to sound like a jerk, but shouldn’t your structural engineer (civil engineer) be answering this question for you rather than strangers on the internet? A job like this will need a permit, and I would imagine a PE to sign off on it.
If you have a good recommendation in BR I’m all ears. The structural engineer I called told me to talk to an architect. The first architect I called didn’t show up. The second architect said I need to ask an engineer and didn’t call back. Maybe I have bad luck but it seems like the engineers only want to deal with architects and the architects want easy jobs like cookie cutter home designs.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:07 am to Knuckle Checker
From a non architect or structural engineer
That is fine. Only issue you may get is vent plumbing and/or AC duct.
That is fine. Only issue you may get is vent plumbing and/or AC duct.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:09 am to Knuckle Checker
I framed houses for many years but your images made my head hurt. It's the kind of thing that you're going to have to get someone to physically look at in person in my humble opinion. Try other engineers/architects, sooner or later you'll talk one into at least looking at it.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:13 am to Knuckle Checker
Looks like it would work, might want to decrease spacing on 2x4's since they are shallower than a 2x12. Spacing on those should be pretty tight.
You need a civil engineer to review, not an architect.
You need a civil engineer to review, not an architect.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:34 am to trident
quote:
That is fine. Only issue you may get is vent plumbing and/or AC duct.
Vent for plumbing is in a side wall, I have that covered.
I am ok with no AC. I was going to do a bathroom vent through the exterior wall.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:42 am to Knuckle Checker
Those drawings are a far cry from my sketches on a ruled tablet or a large napkin when I address some remodeling.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:47 am to Knuckle Checker
What's the height to the bottom of those 2x4s? Code will require minimum 80". You'd do better with 2x6s if you have the head space. 2x4s even spaced closer will still feel bouncy.
What's your plan for the plumbing to the toilet and sink? You'll be busting into your exterior grade beam for the sink drain unless you drain into the wall and drop down closer to the toilet.
What's your plan for the plumbing to the toilet and sink? You'll be busting into your exterior grade beam for the sink drain unless you drain into the wall and drop down closer to the toilet.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:49 am to Knuckle Checker
you'll notice in Southern Pine.com span table, there is no line for 2x4's. That said, the calculations for the load capacity is fairly trivial. Any engineer should be able to figure it out.
is the LVL load bearing? hard to tell
is the LVL load bearing? hard to tell
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:53 am to modes
quote:
What's the height to the bottom of those 2x4s? Code will require minimum 80". You'd do better with 2x6s if you have the head space. 2x4s even spaced closer will still feel bouncy.
82.5 inches with the 2x4s
I wanted to do 2x6s but I need 82 inches for the rough out for the door.
I don't care how many studs are in the ceiling so I plan to place as many as I can fit and still have space to install the joist hangers.
The landing is only 45" x 45" with 2x4s spaced every 6 inches do you still think I would get bounce? I can't imagine a 2x4 flexing over a span of 45 inches. The landing has a plywood deck on top and then 3/4" wood planks over that.
Posted on 8/24/23 at 8:56 am to Jmcc64
quote:
is the LVL load bearing? hard to tell
It is an exterior wall so I suppose, but there is not a second floor above that wall. If you look at the first 3 pictures I include the entire wall, but in the remodel pictures I was trying to make them less cluttered so I left it out.
The downstairs height is 12 feet and the upstairs height is 9 feet. So it is basically a 21 foot exterior wall straight up to the roof. I am pretty sure there is a top plate in the middle that breaks up the wall.
This post was edited on 8/24/23 at 8:57 am
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