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Message
re: I almost feel sorry for the A/C
Posted on 6/30/23 at 9:58 am to SpartanSoul
Posted on 6/30/23 at 9:58 am to SpartanSoul
We spent a good couple weeks in the spring replacing all of the attic insulation and air sealing the attic. Vacuumed all the old nasty fiberglass out (only had about 2 inches) and blew in 18" cellulose. Air sealed all the top plates of the walls and light fixtures, etc with spray foam. Did new double pane energy efficient windows last year.
AC unit is an old 3 ton R22 system that was installed in 1997. It sounds like a jet engine but it holds it at a comfortable 68 in here. Energy bill was $206 last month, 1,600 sq ft house.
We pretty much are decided that when it kicks the bucket it's time to replace, not try to repair unless its just a capacitor or something. Cost to get R22, etc.
The prospect of spending 15k on a new system that will likely not work as well is just not a fun idea. It's kinda depressing reading all these posts on here about these <5yr old systems that can't get below 76 or so.
AC unit is an old 3 ton R22 system that was installed in 1997. It sounds like a jet engine but it holds it at a comfortable 68 in here. Energy bill was $206 last month, 1,600 sq ft house.
We pretty much are decided that when it kicks the bucket it's time to replace, not try to repair unless its just a capacitor or something. Cost to get R22, etc.
The prospect of spending 15k on a new system that will likely not work as well is just not a fun idea. It's kinda depressing reading all these posts on here about these <5yr old systems that can't get below 76 or so.
1
Posted on 6/30/23 at 10:10 am to dr_pootis
You need the right contractor. All new equipment should perform well.
Be aware of SEER chasing. In Louisiana, humidity is #1 issue.
The way it works is, AHRI a test lab, has certified that this xxx specific model, when paired with this specific yyy inside unit, is certified to achieve 16 seer, etc.
You would think that the higher seer, the better. But one of the ways this is achieved is upsizing the inside cooling coil. THAT actually reduces the de-humidifying ability . More coil runs to
“ spread out “ and not run a super cold coil, which would quickly remove humidity.
So, in LA, don’t let them put a 4 ton inside unit with a 3 or 3.5 ton outside unit. Carrier / Bryant makes specific 3.5 ton coils ( or air handlers in the case of electric heat)
Be aware of SEER chasing. In Louisiana, humidity is #1 issue.
The way it works is, AHRI a test lab, has certified that this xxx specific model, when paired with this specific yyy inside unit, is certified to achieve 16 seer, etc.
You would think that the higher seer, the better. But one of the ways this is achieved is upsizing the inside cooling coil. THAT actually reduces the de-humidifying ability . More coil runs to
“ spread out “ and not run a super cold coil, which would quickly remove humidity.
So, in LA, don’t let them put a 4 ton inside unit with a 3 or 3.5 ton outside unit. Carrier / Bryant makes specific 3.5 ton coils ( or air handlers in the case of electric heat)
Posted on 6/30/23 at 10:15 am to EF Hutton
2 stage units slow the blower motor down in stage 1, which runs a super cold coil, which in turn quickly drops the humidity.
Carrier / Bryant units, if u choose the correct inside unit, has a dehum terminal .
You get a stat that has humidity control
( humidistat) and wire it correctly to the dehum terminal, and you set your humidity by percent. If humidity rises, the thermostat takes away 24 volts from the dehum terminal, which slows the blower down, and runs a super cold coil.
Carrier / Bryant units, if u choose the correct inside unit, has a dehum terminal .
You get a stat that has humidity control
( humidistat) and wire it correctly to the dehum terminal, and you set your humidity by percent. If humidity rises, the thermostat takes away 24 volts from the dehum terminal, which slows the blower down, and runs a super cold coil.
Posted on 6/30/23 at 1:52 pm to SpartanSoul
Well I know the OT is worried so I figured I would give an update….
Got 3 more quotes today. The first was to compare against the first so it’s the exact same equipment (variable speed) and scope of work. It came in at $23000
The second is using a 2 stage and just swapping out equipment. It was $14,400
The 3rd is going with a single stage which is what we have now for $11,600
I’m meeting with one more company but right now the $14k option is looking pretty good
Got 3 more quotes today. The first was to compare against the first so it’s the exact same equipment (variable speed) and scope of work. It came in at $23000
The second is using a 2 stage and just swapping out equipment. It was $14,400
The 3rd is going with a single stage which is what we have now for $11,600
I’m meeting with one more company but right now the $14k option is looking pretty good
Posted on 6/30/23 at 5:39 pm to wasteland
Again, please sure to take a hard look at your insulation, and spend some $$ there if warranted; it will pay huge dividends over the long-run.
Posted on 6/30/23 at 8:31 pm to Warfox
Baw I redid all the insulation and ducts a few years ago
Posted on 6/30/23 at 8:32 pm to LSUDad
quote:
Fuse or Breaker? If it’s a breaker, might want to change to breaker, it has become weak, not holding to the right amps.
3amp fuse on circuit board
Posted on 6/30/23 at 8:51 pm to Higgysmalls
That fuse is the low volt system.
Common causes are :
Dog or weed eater got the stat wire outside.
Compressor contactor electromagnet coil shorting out.
Stat wire rubbing on something metal, wore insulation off.
Saw one down in nola where the wires in a wire nut were loose, next to the wash machine. When wash machine went into spin cycle, the outside unit would “ machine gun “
Common causes are :
Dog or weed eater got the stat wire outside.
Compressor contactor electromagnet coil shorting out.
Stat wire rubbing on something metal, wore insulation off.
Saw one down in nola where the wires in a wire nut were loose, next to the wash machine. When wash machine went into spin cycle, the outside unit would “ machine gun “
Posted on 6/30/23 at 9:01 pm to EF Hutton
Ruud is sold by Coburns.
Rheem is Acme Refrig.
Carrier / bryant is their own store
Amer stnd is AC Supply
Acme also has comfortmaker, nothing more than a basic carrier.
Rheem is Acme Refrig.
Carrier / bryant is their own store
Amer stnd is AC Supply
Acme also has comfortmaker, nothing more than a basic carrier.
This post was edited on 6/30/23 at 9:03 pm
Posted on 6/30/23 at 9:18 pm to EF Hutton
quote:
To do a change out right now is expensive because it takes 4 to 5 trucks of techs, they have to rotate out the attic every 20 minutes. Go sit in ac truck while next 2 go up. After 20 minutes in 130 deg attic lungs can’t expand, headache comes. All them people cost money. Best time to change out is january/ february
I had two 50+ baws change mine out last July with no problem. They took one break to chug some water and chief a cig and right back to it. Hot as hell in that attic, but they worked fast.
Posted on 7/2/23 at 1:41 pm to EF Hutton
quote:
That fuse is the low volt system.
Common causes are :
Dog or weed eater got the stat wire outside.
Compressor contactor electromagnet coil shorting out.
Stat wire rubbing on something metal, wore insulation off.
Saw one down in nola where the wires in a wire nut were loose, next to the wash machine. When wash machine went into spin cycle, the outside unit would “ machine gun “
Nailed it.
Mouse ate all the insulation off low voltage wire that comes into house
Posted on 7/2/23 at 1:45 pm to SpartanSoul
I don't think our AC ever turned off in June. Should be a nice bill
Posted on 7/2/23 at 2:19 pm to Dixie2023
quote:
I can’t leave the window units running when I’m at work
Why not?
Posted on 7/2/23 at 3:16 pm to Dixie2023
quote:
I worry about the dogs bc I can’t leave the window units running when I’m at work and it’s staying over 80 all day.
You can without any real worry. Set them on econ around 70°. You can also set a timer on most all the new ones to come on a few hours after you leave when the temp starts to climb.
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