New Orleans has always been the American center of the sugar industry and the sugar trade. Plantations in the NOLA environs were seldom used for cotton production, as was most of the South. Instead, plantations here focused on sugarcane. It was a much more valuable crop and no other American climate and soil could support its tender needs. As a result of sugar's abundance and a French settlement, New Orleans became one of the leading dessert cities in the world during the 19th century. The city still boasts a strong dessert culture, which isn't widely appreciated outside the city. Indeed, even residents don't realize the strength of its dessert heritage.

What does essential mean? As we discussed earlier today, the Greek word from which we get essential, ousia, has often been thought of as "substance." The Church Fathers transferred this Latin understanding of ousia, usually in discussions about the Trinity: three distinct persons; one substance. Heidegger recently rejected this translation. He was as stuck on Being as I am on educating and entertaining the hoards, so he said ousia isn't about substance. It's not about stuff. It's about something far more basic and real than stuff. It is Being itself. Whether you fall in the traditional camp or Heidegger's camp, I will not judge. But a little background was needed, and now I think we can accurately list the 10 most essential New Orleans dessert emporiums. These are the dessert emporiums that shape what we understand by the term New Orleans dessert dining.

As is always the case, my list, while informed and thoughtful, is not absolutely definitive. Your comments and your own list are warmly welcomed.

10) Dong Phuong - One mustn't forget that Vietnam was once a French colony. As a result, the Vietnamese have a surprisingly delicious dessert heritage. The bakery in Dong Phuong invites people in for delicious cakes and breads, which one can eat in the restaurant.

9) Creole Creamery - There's nothing Creole about Creole Creamery, and IMO, nothing all that great. It makes the list because it is so popular with the masses, and so, becomes the dessert mecca of Uptown. Being located in an old McKenzie's is a bonus.

8) Tastee Donuts (West Esplanade) - Though there's nothing great here, I can't argue with this selection because, well, it's my selection. It's a gathering spot for many Metairie locals, morning and night, young and old, so it makes the list. That is serves old McKenzie's recipes is a bonus.

7) Pandora's Snoballs - Not much has been written on the introduction of the snoball, probably the product of the Italians. Only one does it better than Pandora's, and it has been a favorite in Mid-City for as long as I can remember.

6) The Buttermilk Drop Bakery - There aren't many dessert emporiums in this part of town, but if you want the best donut within city limits, nothing comes close to The Buttermilk Drop. That they sell a buttermilk drop superior to McKenzie's is a bonus.

5) Plum Street Snoballs - There are few pleasures as acute as sitting on the Plum St. bench enjoyed a snoball in a Chinese to-go box.

4) Morning Call - Home of the best beignet in the city, and I think most locals will agree with that statement. What a marvelous spot to grab a cup of coffee, read the paper, and people watch the locals.

3) Cafe Du Monde - It has to make the list, I guess, because of its age, history, and location. I rarely enjoy it, though, because it is tourist-ridden. Still, I can't image New Orleans dessert without it.

2) Hansen's Sno Bliz - The best snoball in the city, and certainly one of, if not the oldest. The community that forms in the line is quintessentially New Orleans.

1) Brocato's - No dessert emporium is better in quality or neighborly fellowship. The impressiveness of its history is matched only by the deliciousness of its present.