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Trip Review - Rome and Tuscany Mardi Gras Week 2020

Posted on 3/6/20 at 9:31 am
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5831 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 9:31 am
My wife and I took our first trip abroad together over the Mardi Gras break. We left Friday night from MSY on British Airways. We landed in London and then caught our connection to Rome. We were delayed a bit leaving Heathrow and arrived in Rome around 5:30 pm Saturday night. By the time we got our bags and transportation, we arrived at our Air BnB in Trastavere around 7 pm.

Our itinerary was as follows: Saturday-Tuesday in Rome, rent a car and spend Tuesday-Friday in Monticchiello. Friday night Hilton Airport Hotel in Rome, fly home Saturday morning. We had amazing weather each day, only one day of clouds while we were driving around the Tuscan countryside. It was chilly in the mornings (40's) and would warm up to the 60's during the day. Most of the medieval hilltop towns in Tuscany were very windy, but not as bad in the valley.

This is our street when we arrived to our apartment in Trastavere



That night we ate at a restaurant next to our apartment, it was okay, nothing special. We had focaccia, pasta bolognese and past cacio y pepe (salt and pepper). We both found everything very salty. Much better meals to come.

The next morning we stopped at a corner cafe in Trastavere for a quick breakfast. It was a neat place, you could tell it was locals coming in on their daily routine. The people behind the counter were loud and surly at first, but we wound up stopping here every morning before heading out. By the last day they had our order ready before we approached the counter.



We then caught a cab to the Colosseum for an early tour of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill and Roman Forum. We were able to get inside the Colosseum while it was nearly empty. Our tour was wonderful, we booked it through LivItaly, and we only had 5 people in our group.











The tour ended a little after noon so we had the rest of the day to walk around Rome. We loosely followed Rick Steves' Heart of Rome walk, and made a few wrong turns but it was a lot of fun being out and about. We ate a late lunch at Osteria da Fortunata. I had read several reviews talking about their Carbonara. It did not dissapoint. We waiting in line for about 45 minutes but the restaurant is next to the Campo de Fiori, so we had fun people watching. This is the restaurant that has the ladies in the window making pasta. We wound up at the Spanish Steps around sunset, then made our way down Via Condotti & Corso doing some window shopping and of course gelato tasting. We stepped in a cafe for a pizza that night's dinner.












Day 2 we were up early again for the Pristine Sistine Tour at the Vatican. Our group was about 10 people, and 6 of us were from South Louisiana. Going early into the Sistine is worth it. There was maybe 30 people in there. We passed through again later on the tour and it was so packed you couldn't see the floor. The Vatican and its museums are massive, so I picked just a few photos to post. We also did the Scavi Tour- pics weren't allowed but it was amazing to see the catacombs and how well preserved they are.






We caught a cab back to Rome that afternoon and walked the Circus Maximus and up to check out the sunset and the Knights of Malta keyhole. We waited in line for about 30 mins but it was a really neat thing to see, especially with the sky just turning purple. Tried to take a pic with my phone but didn't come out too well.


We had dinner that night in Trastavere at Grazia & Graziella. Pasta was great and the house red was good as well.


The next morning we slept in a bit, had breakfast and then caught an Uber to the Hertz office on the northern edge of town. We had a smooth pickup and were on our way to Tuscany. First stop was in Orvieto.
This post was edited on 3/6/20 at 11:12 am
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5831 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 9:32 am to
Orvieto was about an hour oustide of Rome. We had a loose itenerary this day, so we parked and just walked around the city. We went to the bottom of St. Patrick's well- nearly 500 steps. We climbed to the top of the bell tower for amazing views, and had lunch at a nice little restaurant with a menu that honored the medieval founders of the city. It was a nice change of pace from all of the pasta and pizza in Rome.




Orvieto Duomo




We thoroughly enjoyed Orvieto, and our next stop was our Air BnB in Monticchiello. We met our host that evening and had a little time to walk around the city center. There were no tourists staying in town and we pretty much had it to ourselves. The small tower on the left side of the evening pic is our apartment. It is built inside a turret of the medieval city wall.




The next morning was Wednesday, and we had arranged day tours of Florence and Siena. I booked a private tour guide and she met us at the central market in Florence. She took us around town for 4 hours or so, then rode with us to Siena. We walked around Siena until dark and then she caught a bus home and we drove back to our apartment. She is in the blue jacket in one of the pics. The Statue of David is truly amazing. The details of the human body, the fact that is was carved from a single block of marble and stands 17 feet tall- truly a marvelous piece of art. The last pic in this section is Michelangelo's tomb.








On our way out of Florence we stopped at the Piazze del Michelangelo for views of the city.



On to Siena. I don't know if it was the long days catching up to us, but we didn't care for Siena too much. It seemed like any of the other towns we had already seen, and by that evening my wife and I were like - "Another church?!?" The Piazza del Campo was interesting and we watched videos of the horse races that are held there. One interesting thing was San Domenico Church, which had St. Catherine's skull and one of her fingers on display.





This was the end of our scheduled tours. The next 2 days we were wide open to drive through Tuscany and see things at our own pace. Those 2 days may have been the best part of our trip.
This post was edited on 3/6/20 at 11:06 am
Posted by LoneStarRanger
Texas/Europe
Member since Aug 2018
2404 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 10:17 am to
Haven't been to Italy in a few years. Need to get back asap.

Nice pictures, thanks
Posted by Fun Bunch
New Orleans
Member since May 2008
115736 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 10:23 am to
quote:

Need to get back asap.


I'd probably wait a little while
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5831 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 10:59 am to
The lady that owned our apartment in Monticchiello also owned a restaurant. From talking to her it seemed that her family was very well off and pretty much owned the town of Monticchiello. Included in our stay was a private breakfast in her restaurant every morning, and she also hosted us for dinner on our final night. Her hospitality was amazing and her staff was top notch. Her restaurant has received Michelin recognition, but yet the prices were on par with a chain type restaurant in the States. A few pics of her restaurant and the view from our bedroom:




The last 2 days we criss crossed the amazing Val d'Orcia. We would pull over and take pics, as well as visited the surrounding towns. A few places we stopped include San Quirico, Montalcino, Bagno Vignoni, Montepulciano, Pienza, and Cortona. Probably our favorite towns of this group were Pienza and Cortana. But just driving through the valley itself was breathtaking.



We stopped at the Abbey of Sant'Antimo near Montalcino, it was beautiful. Defintely make this a stop if you are in this area. A peaceful medieval monastery in the valley:



Capela della Madonna di Vitaleta




Montalcino:





Pienza:





Cortona:









We drove out to the Villa Bramasole, which is where the writer who wrote "Under the Tuscan Sun" lived:



A few final pics of the Tuscan countryside:









All in all it was a wonderful trip. We had each been abroad once before (separately) but never to Italy. Later I may post some pros/cons of things we did or wish we did. It was a great experience and you can see how people get the bug to travel internationally once you start seeing the beauty of different cultures/landscapes.

This board gave me mountains of advice, and some great real-world accounts of what to do/not do. I hope to pay it forward for anyone else considering taking a trip to Italy.
This post was edited on 3/6/20 at 11:18 am
Posted by FloridaRougaroux
Vero Beach, FL
Member since Aug 2019
51 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 11:59 am to
Italy is one of our favorite places to visit. Nice pics. Thanks for sharing.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1319 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 12:15 pm to
Great repot and pictures, thanks for sharing. We need to get there soon, maybe next year.

quote:

My wife and I took our first trip abroad together


Had either of you traveled abroad before? You seem to be an experienced traveler. We went to Europe, Poland, last year for the first time but we went with a group.
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 1:35 pm to
Sounds like you had a great trip. RE: Trastevere/Roman coffee bars--you figured it out. Go every day, by day three you're one of the regulars. The coffee bar is not meant as a Parisian style all day hangout--it's a quick bread, a caffeine fuel stop, a chat and coffee before a smoke and back to work. I have my old favorite (Bar del Cappuccino on via Arenula), but on my Mardi Gras trip to Italy, I discovered 089 (Zero Otto Nove Cafe & Caffe), directly across the street from the very famous (and now sadly very touristy) Cafe Sant'Eustachio.

I've done the BA direct/connect @ Heathrow, and I dislike arriving so late in the day. Plus, that early AM return sucks. So my last couple of trips to Italy have been on Delta, via Atlanta. You leave NO at 3ish, fly out of ATL at 6:30, and you arrive at FCO for 9:30. Plenty enough time to check in, have lunch, and enjoy a stroll to overcome jet lag. And the return flight doesn't leave until 11:30 am....so you can have "real" breakfast before going to the airport, or have a leisurely breakfast at the airport.

Those all-stone Tuscan towns DO kind of look the same after a few days. I hope you managed to drink some Orvieto Classico wine while you were in that town....
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5831 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 2:31 pm to
quote:

Had either of you traveled abroad before? You seem to be an experienced traveler.


First time abroad together. I lived in Germany for 4 months about 15 years ago, but didn't do much sight seeing. The wife went to Ireland with a tour group several years ago.

We planned/researched everything ourselves. It all started by reading a thread on here late last summer about cheap fares to Europe. We started poking around with Google Flights, found some dates that worked, and booked the flights. Then we started googling and asking questions on here to flesh out the itinerary and went from there.

The unsung hero of our trip was the Allbirds Tree Runners I bought. I read a lot of people complimenting them so I bought a pair before we left. Our first 2 days in Rome we walked almost 14 miles each day, and my feet felt great. Major props to those shoes.
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5831 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 2:33 pm to
quote:

hungryone


I appreciate reading your posts when planning this trip. Just about every European/Italian thread has your input in it and we were able to use a lot of info you provided.

Looking back the MSY-ATL-FCO is probably a more schedule friendly route, I wasn't even aware of it when we booked with BA. Will definitely keep it in mind when there is (hopefully) a next time.
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 4:15 pm to
I encourage you to go back and explore the south. Southern Italy and Sicily are full of incredible scenery, ancient sites, and amazing foods. Plus, far less mass tourism and fewer Brits.
Posted by SurfOrYak
BR/MsDelta
Member since Jul 2015
402 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 8:44 pm to
Yep, fly directly to FCO and take the express train into Termini station downtown, where you can access the subway system. There are also local trains out of FCO.
Posted by HoustonGumbeauxGuy
Member since Jul 2011
29500 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 9:13 pm to
Awesome work!


Posted by redfish99
B.R.
Member since Aug 2007
16433 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 10:09 pm to
Very nice, my two trips there were inSeptember . I was told Rome was much less crowded in Winter surprised by the crowds in the pictures . I guess it’s all relative.
Posted by Fat Bastard
coach, investor, gambler
Member since Mar 2009
72613 posts
Posted on 3/6/20 at 10:24 pm to
brunello di montalcino
Posted by BHS78
Member since May 2017
2051 posts
Posted on 3/7/20 at 9:12 am to
Did you book the trip yourself or go through a website?
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5831 posts
Posted on 3/7/20 at 10:35 am to
quote:

brunello di montalcino


My wife and I don’t drink much but we had countless glasses of Brunello and brought home 2 bottles
Posted by slinger1317
Northshore
Member since Sep 2005
5831 posts
Posted on 3/8/20 at 9:11 pm to
quote:

Did you book the trip yourself or go through a website?


We planned and booked everything ourselves. Took some time and research but it was well worth it.
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