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LV, Utah 5 NP, Mesa Verde and Black Canyon of Gunnison trip report

Posted on 7/8/21 at 10:30 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/8/21 at 10:30 pm
We, wife, me and another couple just finished a 13 day 14 night trip to Las Vegas, southern Utah and south west Colorado. It was a great trip; planes left and arrived on time, weather was great (the heat wave had abated) and crowds were not too bad for the most part.

We're all 70 +- 2 years so we were not looking to do a lot of hiking but even so we still walked about 5 miles per day on average. We drove, on average, about 200 miles per day but some days were travel days and we drove more then but we stopped a lot to take pictures.

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This is our route. We drove ~ 2,100 miles.

We flew into Vegas for two nights, stayed at the Venetian. Checked out Hoover Dam, the Pawn Stars shop and Fremont area the first day; before we could check in. After that we mostly just checked out the casinos.

Then we headed to the five Utah National Parks; we stayed in Hampton Inns except in Bryce (Best Western Plus) in and Torrey (The Lodge at Red River Ranch). We stayed two nights everywhere in Utah except at Torrey. We didn't think there was a lot of for us to do in Capitol Reef.

We left Moab and headed to Cortez, CO via Telluride. Then Durango, Montrose, and finally a hotel near the Denver airport. We were in these places one night each.

Rental car -we were worried about this and the LV rental car system is unlike any I have ever seen. A long line to get on a bus to go the rental center. Lot of people in line to get their car but we had booked though Costco and they used Alamo. The line was short but an agent helped us use their machine and we were out in 10 minutes. But, we had rented a mini van and they were out so they gave us a Suburban for the same price.

COVID
for the most part not a big deal. We had to wear mask in the airport and in the plane. Most everywhere else signs were posted that masks are not required if vaccinated but no one checked.
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But, the National Parks were not fully open. In Zion 4 of the 9 stops were closed and it was common to find the visitor center or museum closed.

Breakfast - the best breakfast was at the Grand Lux Cafe at the Venetian. They had just opened the buffet and it was great; $21 but that included drinks. the 2nd best at a hotel was the buffet breakfast at the Best Western in Bryce. It was at a pre Covid level.

The Hampton Inns (which aren't that great anyway) were a mixed bag. Some were almost back to pre Covid status but at least one made you take your food to your room.

The Lodge at Red River Ranch had a great breakfast. Not a lot to select from but it was very good.

Weather -it was hot in Vegas, 110 to 115, but otherwise the temps were mostly mid to high 80s with a few days in the low 90s. We got very lucky with that. We had wanted to go a week earlier but due to other commitments we could not leave until 6/20.

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Sunrise in Bryce Canyon at Bryce Point. The sun is to the right with the light reflecting off the Hoodoos.

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Sunrise in Arches at the Windows arch.

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Sunset in Canyonland near Grand View point.

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This first image is a picture of a canyon in Zion taken from the mile long river walk trail to where you enter to go to the narrows. The 2nd is a group entering the river to walk to the narrows.

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Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP, it is near Montrose, CO. There is a 7 mile road from the entrance (the entrance is IDK < 10 miles off the highway) to the end with 12 viewing stops. This place blew me away.


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The last morning at Bryce Canyon we decided to hike down to the floor in the amphitheater. It is pretty flat at the bottom and there are trails to several places. Due to time limits we just went down the two bridges trail and came back up Navajo trail; through the area know as Wall Street.

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Entrance to Sand Castle Arch. This was a short hike off the road and I liked this place.

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This is another slot canyon I liked a lot. It is not in one of NP. The ranger at the Escalante Interagency Visitors Center told us about it. It is 11 miles east of Boulder, UT (not CO) and you need directions to find it.

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I didn't take a very good picture of the map, cut off the bottom. MV has two roads into the park, we drove down the center one but could only see most of the ruins from across a canyon as the Palace Loop road was being repaired. We saw what we could there and then went to the road on the west side as we had 3:00 pm tickets for The Long House Tour. You have to get those on line and only 25 are sold for each 30 minute interval. On the west side you could also walk to the Step House, without a ticket, from the parking lot.
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The Square Tower House is on the left and the Cliff Palace on the right.

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The Long House. It is about 2.25 miles round trip from the parking lot and you have to go into the canyon, but not to the bottom.

This post was edited on 7/8/21 at 11:46 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/8/21 at 10:31 pm to
More pictures:
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Near Delores, CO (which is 10 miles north of Cortez) we stopped by the Canyons of the Ancients NM. It was late Wed afternoon and they were closed; right now it is only open Thur., Fri, & Sat. But there is a 1/2 mile trail from the parking lot up a hill with a great view of the area and McPhee Reservoir. There is a ruin on top also.

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The most accessible site in the NM is Lowry Pueblo so we drove there to look at that. The flat roof on top is modern to protect the site. We drove back to the VC Thursday morning to talk to the BLM folks and to tour the museum; then we headed to the Mesa Verde NP entrance which is about 20 miles away.

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I'm jumping around, but this is The Lodge at Red River Ranch which is < 10 miles from Torrey, near Capitol Reef NP. One of our regrets is not staying two nights here. It was refreshing to stay in something other than a typical hotel room and the owners were wonderful. It is a working ranch; they raise bison, but close in the winter. Highly recommend this place.

After we left MV we spent the night in Durango; took Hwy 550 to Montrose with stops in Silverton and Ouray. Below are just some random pictures from that.

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In Durango we had dinner in the Diamond Belle restaurant, which is part of the historical Strater Hotel. It was fun, they have an award winning rag time piano player and waitress dress in costumes. The hotel is worth looking at even if you don't eat there.

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Not too far out of Durango we stopped at Honeyville. Someone at the bar in Diamond Belle had told us about. They raise honey bees and sell all types of products made from honey including various whipped honeys and liquor. The owner was there and he was happy to talk about all things related to bees & honey.

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A pics on the way to Montrose.

I asked the Travel Board for a scenic route to get to the Denver airport from Montrose. Thanks to Duke and cgrand for their recommendation to turn at Gunnison and go to Taylor Park Reservoir and take county road 209 to Buena Vista. These are some pictures from that drive.
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A river that those young folks were about the raft down, Taylor Reservoir looking toward the mountain, and then looking back to the Reservoir.

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There were a bunch bicyclists at Cottonwood Pass; I guess they rode their bicycles up there. Looking back at the pass as we head to BV.

This post was edited on 7/9/21 at 8:58 am
Posted by Crow Pie
Neuro ICU - Tulane Med Center
Member since Feb 2010
25328 posts
Posted on 7/8/21 at 11:12 pm to
That was a great trip. I have been to much of that over various trips but want to return when I have weeks not days. Thanks for the review!
Posted by ChenierauTigre
Dreamland
Member since Dec 2007
34522 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 5:57 am to
I want to see Cliff Palace. How long did it take to get there after you entered the park?

Was it crowded? Were you affected by the altitude? Did you climb the 30 ft. ladder? Going in September.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38829 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 7:40 am to
my recollection is that it’s about a 2 mile hike but it’s easy.
the ladder is massive, any reasonably ambulatory person can climb it

pack your water in a backpack you’ll want to be hands-free for the climb

Mesa verde is stunning. Easily one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen and the guides are great
This post was edited on 7/9/21 at 7:42 am
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 9:23 am to
quote:

I want to see Cliff Palace. How long did it take to get there after you entered the park?

Was it crowded? Were you affected by the altitude? Did you climb the 30 ft. ladder? Going in September.

The drive from the entrance of MV to the lodge, where you take the road to Cliff Palace or to the Long House, is about 30 minutes. It's not that far but it is curvy.

From there to the Cliff Palace turn off is about 15 or 20 minutes; it is mostly straight. Then it looks like a short drive but the road was closed so we could not go there.

It takes about 30 minutes to get to the Long House parking lot from the lodge, or about an hour from the Visitor Center, which is near the entrance. Their publication say longer and if you get stuck behind a very slow driver it could take more time. The speed limits are low but some people go really slow.

We climbed the two ladders in the Long House, both about 15 feet, and they were sturdy and leaning so it is not hard.

It was not overly crowded. Right now, to tour most of the dwellings, you have to get a ticket on line, which was a challenge. That may be different in September. Right now you can begin to try and get tickets 14 days before you want to visit.

The altitude did not affect us except on steep hikes, but we would just rest. It affected my traveling companion more but he is carrying more extra weight than I am.

Where do you plan to stay?

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These are the ladders at the Long House.

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This is Cliff Palace and you can see the ladder toward the right of the picture, under the round structure. It doesn't look 30 ft. long. This picture was taken from across the canyon.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38829 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 5:02 pm to
very cool review
happy to see a Cortez report we love that area.
last time we stayed at a cabin in mcelmo canyon that was spectacular

there’s a really great vineyard on mcelmo creek just past Cortez that we love

we are in Moab now soon to leave for telluride and then we will take cottonwood to BV. It was closed that last time we were here so we could only do the BV side, looking forward to seeing the rest
This post was edited on 7/9/21 at 5:04 pm
Posted by ChenierauTigre
Dreamland
Member since Dec 2007
34522 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 7:10 pm to
We are staying in Durango, then going to Farmington, NM in hopes of going to Chaco Canyon and Ah Shi Sle Pah. Then back to Durango. Want to check out the rock shop in Cortez and a trading post.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 9:45 pm to
quote:

happy to see a Cortez report we love that area.
Cortez was a pleasant surprise, at least the part we saw. We had one of our best meals of the trip at La Casita de Cortez.

We almost hit a deer on the drive from Moab to Telluride on highway 46. She ran right in front of the vehicle; I don't know how we missed her.
Posted by Duke
Twin Lakes, CO
Member since Jan 2008
35629 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 9:47 pm to
quote:

We almost hit a deer on the drive from Moab to Telluride on highway 46. She ran right in front of the vehicle; I don't know how we missed her.


That's been like once or twice a week for me lately.

Glad you enjoyed Cottonwood Pass. Looks like a hell of a trip! Awesome pictures. Glad you shared.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/9/21 at 9:49 pm to
quote:

We are staying in Durango, then going to Farmington, NM in hopes of going to Chaco Canyon and Ah Shi Sle Pah. Then back to Durango. Want to check out the rock shop in Cortez and a trading post.
If you plan to eat dinner in the historic area of Durango try and get to the restaurant before the train gets back. We had to wait over an hour for a table; our timing was bad.

I had not heard of Chaco Canyon; I googled it and it looks like an interesting place to tour.
Posted by ChenierauTigre
Dreamland
Member since Dec 2007
34522 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 7:17 am to
I have wanted to go to Chaco for my entire life. It is out in the middle of BFE and a rough ride to get there.
Posted by Cash
Vail
Member since Feb 2005
37247 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 8:34 am to
Was there much damage in Zion/Springdale from the flash floods? Not sure if you were there before or after.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 9:11 am to
We were there before by a few days. We only saw the news reports and it looked bad on local TV. The last story I saw about it said they were beginning to open back up and that was over a week ago.

Do you plan to go there soon?
This post was edited on 7/10/21 at 9:13 am
Posted by Cash
Vail
Member since Feb 2005
37247 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 9:46 am to
No, I was there 2-3 weeks ago. It was hot but I’m glad I went when I did.
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 10:05 am to
We were there about the same time; got there on 6/23 & left on the 25th.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38829 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 11:37 am to
fixing to leave Moab thinking about taking 491 to Delores then 145 to telluride it only adds 30 minutes. We’ve not taken the 145 section of the San Juan before
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1323 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 11:57 am to
I enjoyed riding/driving that route from Telluride to Delores. I told our traveling companions as we were on the Million $ Hwy section that I liked the ride from Telluride to Delores better; that may have had something to do with being on a road w/o guard rails though.
Posted by Duke
Twin Lakes, CO
Member since Jan 2008
35629 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 2:00 pm to
quote:

fixing to leave Moab thinking about taking 491 to Delores then 145 to telluride it only adds 30 minutes. We’ve not taken the 145 section of the San Juan before


Good call. Little hazy today unfortunately.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38829 posts
Posted on 7/10/21 at 7:53 pm to
nice drive

stopped at the stateline bar for a drink then in Rico for a street party with beer, BBQ, a band and a nice crowd at the enterprise bar

good times

glad to be in telluride and out of that heat. Friday almost cooked us both
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